98 3.8L Transmission - No Engagement

I know I've kept this beast too long (270,000 km). My daughters drive it. No hint of a transmission problem until yesterday. Daughter was driving home from work (about 5 km). It worked fine getting her there, but on slowing down 1 km or so after leaving work, the transmission would not engage when trying to speed up again. The first time it finally engaged. Same on the second time after slowing down then trying to speed up. The last time she finally turned the engine off, let it sit for a minute, and then tried again. It then got her home.

When Dad took it for a test drive the next day it rolled backwards down the driveway, but would not engage in any gear. Canceling the overdrive did nothing. After several repeated attempts of turning the engine off, letting it sit, and then trying again, it finally engaged and I drove it back up the driveway. There it sits. Thinking of putting a bullet in it...

I've read all the posts I could find here on a search. Consensus would seem to be that the torque converter is shot. It is -20 C here and no heated garage, so I really am not prepared to do much myself. The transmission fluid level is normal when running in park. This would seem to suggest the pump is working. There is no check engine light up. Have not checked codes yet. Tomorrow job, and I will post the results, but suspect there are no codes.

Any thoughts on my conclusion it is the torque converter? Any thoughts as to why slowing down would cause it to disengage? The directions of force in the converter would reverse from slowing down to speeding up. Suggestions on the strategy to get a TX shop to just replace the converter, instead of the standard -- you have to get a complete rebuilt TX.

All suggestions appreciated,

You most likely already tried this.......but did you try the gear select in 1 and 2?
I seem to remember that selecting 2 will start you out in 2nd......
You did my other thought...checking the fluid level.......as you stated.....too high would indicate tha the pump is not pumping.......but normal level indicates that it is.
Maybe the Neutral Safety Switch, aka Transmission Range Sensor?.....

One other thing to try......is, WITH the motor already running, unplug the electrical connection to the TRS, aka Neutral Safety Switch, and see if that gets you going.
If so......maybe a TRS will solve the problem (hopeful thinking as it is MUCH cheaper than the other option).
You have to have the motor already running because the vehicle will not start unless it sees the TRS in the Park or Neutral position.

You have described a textbook case of a clogged transmission filter.

So, before putting the bullet in it, drop the transmission pan, clean it out and change the transmission filter. Then reinstall the pan and fill with new fluid.

BTW, if you take this to a mechanic to do, don't get talked into a transmission flush. A flush is useless for cleaning a clogged filter. The pan must come off.

Thanks for the suggestions. No, when it does not engage, it does not do Reverse, Drive, 1 or 2. Disabling O/D does nothing.

Checked TX fluid with engine stopped. It is about 1.5" above the full mark. Running at idle, it is right on full. This would seem to suggest the pump is running.

Checked for codes and there are none.

Wiswind, where would I look to find the TRS connector, to try disconnecting it?

I checked my maintenance records for TX fluid and filter changes.. It looks like I have been a little negligent, and may have paid a price. Ford's severe service schedule calls for replacing the fluid every 35,000 km. However, right up until the end of the schedule (200,000 km), there is no suggestion to change the filter. The Haynes manual says both fluid and filter change every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 2 years.

In any case I drained and replaced the fluid at 90,000 and 185,000 km. While my notes don't indicated filter replaced, that is my standard practice. So, I am at 85,000 km past the last change now, so perhaps the filter could be an issue. Will be a nasty job in -20 weather, but I probably should give it a try.

I have pictures posted.....
Here is a link to a picture that shows the TRS...and the electrical connection to it.
The picture was taken with the big flex hose removed.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1345053698011220610vMUSlZ

Here is a link to pictures that show the removal of the transmission pan and filter replacement.
It is a messy job......but the pictures should help make the job easy.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1503286079011220610wjsCPh

Dropping the pan will get about 6 quarts of ATF.......so I would buy 7 quarts of new fluid, just to be on the safe side.

Hopefully you still have the original pan gasket, because it is reusable....better than any gasket that comes with the filter.

Wiswind, thanks for the comments and suggestions. The connector should be each to find with that excellent photo.

Probably will leave the oil/filter change to next weekend, when it is supposed to warm up. No I don't think I have the original gasket, as my usual practice is to replace the gasket and filter. And, yes they do seem to leak a bit, even when you carefully torque each screw with an inch-lb torque wrench, and re-torque after a week or so.

OK, so there is good news and bad news. First the bad. I dropped the TX pan and found a fair amount of metal flakes on top of the filter, and in the filter end of the pan. The ring magnet had the usual much finer fuzz on it. The metal flakes were shiny and magnetic. Is this a critical problem or?? It has been about 85,000 km since the filter and fluid were last changed, or more than double the recommended 35,000 km.

The good news is that after I changed the filter and replaced the fluid, it now works in drive and reverse in my driveway. You feel the immediate engagement when you put it in drive and reverse. So far I have not worked up the nerve to drive it any more than a few feet in the driveway.

What are the thoughts? Is this a fix, or am I kidding myself to think it is now fixed?