2003 3.8l, Codes 171 & 301

Apologies for starting a new thread on territory that seems to have been explored before.

About three months ago my van threw off codes 171 and 301 and the engine ran noticeably rough. Changed the plugs and wires since we had 95,000 miles on it, and no change.

Consulted this forum and followed the EGR port cleaning procedure. Ran well for a couple of days and misfire returned.

Checked the coil pack and noticed cracks in the plastic. Installed a new coil pack and the van ran very nicely......until a couple of days ago. At first it threw off code 302 only. Now it's throwing off codes 171 and 302.

Don't know if the current problems are related to the earlier ones. Right now I'm thinking of checking the injector on Cylinder 2, but before I start taking everything apart again was wondering if anyone had any other ideas.

If you are suspecting a fuel injector, I would recommend getting a can of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool and adding it to the gasoline tank.
This will clean the injectors.
The fuel injectors on the windstar are very reliable, but on the older ones.....like my '96, they can build up a deposit of crud inside the end cap.
The berryman's is the only product that I have found that cleans this deposit.
I don't think that the later years had the same problem as my '96, but any fuel injector can get dirty.....and the berryman's will clean them up nicely.

Thanks for your prompt reply. On your recommendation, have been using Berryman's pretty regularly. Seems, then, that it may not be the fuel injector. Anything else I should look at?

Check the PCV system for unmetered Air leaks.
The plastic + rubber will age, and cause air leaks.

Checked the PVC and there are no visible cracks in the plastic hose/pipe or the rubber connectors. Did notice that the fitting of the PVC valve itself into the valve head cover was loose. Had the engine running, pressed down on it, and to my untrained ear it sounded like the engine was running better. Turned it off and on again and the CEL was gone.

Test drove it and it was fine for a while. Not unexpectedly, engine started running rough, CEL came on again, flashing. Over the course of a three mile drive, the CEL would alternate between flashing and disappearing for 5-10 seconds.

Looks like the foam plastic grommet that holds the PVC valve in the valve head cover has deteriorated over time, allowing the PVC valve to rattle around in there. Would this cause enough unmetered air to get in to cause the rough running problem?

It should be easy enough to buy a new PCV valve gasket and replace it.
I have seen them on the Rockauto website, and other places......a cheap and easy part.
Even it it does not fully correct your problem......it should be done.
You might even pick up a new PCV valve......I recommend that you get a genuine Motorcraft brand PCV valve.
Some of the aftermarket PCV valves that I have seen listed for the windstar are not even CLOSE to OEM......so this is a part that I would get from FORD....and it is not expensive either.

1) Clean PCV rubber garment good with alcohol, and glue the PCV valve in with a intake sealant.
2) Reset & clear code

Thank you gentlemen. Will get to it Monday when the local dealer's parts department reopens and keep you posted.

Hope you all had a wonderful Christmas and best wishes for the New Year.

Not what I had hoped for. Changed PCV valve (and the plastic pipe to the air intake to boot) and grommet but engine is still misfiring. No longer getting 171 code, but 302 persists. Back to the drawing board.

When you say that you replaced the spark plugs......what brand/style did you use?
The Bosch multi-prong plugs that they display so nicely at the auto part stores have been known to cause problems in the windstar application.

One other thing that you might try....but is a bit of trouble to do......switch the spark plug wire between cylinder #2 and 1 or 3.......you would do this at the spark plug AND at the coil pack.......
Just in case the new wire somehow is defective or got damaged.
Of course......if you find it not seated nicely at both ends.......that could be it also.

Thanks for the suggestions, wiswind. The thought had occurred to me that possibly the wire was not seated properly (since access to the plugs in that rear cylinder bank isn't exactly easy even after removing the cowling, the ventilation manifolds, and other sundry parts and wires). That was my next plan of attack, but your suggestions go beyond what I intended and I'll follow them if necessary.

As far as the spark plugs, I used Champion double platinum.

Again, thanks for your interest and assistance. I'll keep you posted.

I get to my rear spark plugs from UNDER the vehicle.
I drive the front wheels up on ramps, and slide in under the vehicle.
I can reach up to the 3 rear plugs.
I prefer this way because it is pretty easy.....and is less taking things apart to get to.
I figure.....the more I have to take apart.......the more opportunity for me to break something or forget to connect something....etc.

Okay, we've achieved some progress. Checked the wire connections and. lo and behold, #2 sparkplug was loose (I could actually unscrew it by hand). Expected that it would have created problems before now (we've put 2,500 miles on the van since the plugs were changed), but that's another matter. Anyway, reinstalled it, connected it, and the 302 code is gone.

But my problems aren't entirely solved. While the engine runs considerably better, it still idles rough, and I get a flutter/tapping when I put it under load (accelerating, uphill climbs), which we didn't have before this latest episode. Before I reinstalled the plug, I sprayed the threads with WD-40. Not sure that was such a great idea. Got a fair amount of white smoke out of the exhaust for about 2-3 minutes (assume itwas the WD 40 burning off), but that's gone and now I have the problem described.

Guess I should expect all of this for my efforts as an amateur.

Still experiencing the rough idle, loss of power, and gas mileage has decreased significantly.

Thinking that maybe the catalytic converter was damaged due to the misfire and the performance issues are due to exhaust backpressure, but I'm not getting any of the other symptoms of a bad cat. No telltale rotten egg smell, no overheating of the engine, cat itself, or exhaust manifold. Didn't drive the car that much, maybe 30-40 miles intermittently, before fixing the backfire.

Any thoughts on what to check next would be appreciated.