New coil; still missing/bucking; '99 3.8L

I installed the new coil purchased through Amazon. Fit well. No issues there. Unfortunately Windy is still bucking/missing when slowly accelerating from low speed and low RPM while in 3rd or 4th gear.

To date I have installed new wires (plugs have about 25,000 on them), new DPFE, new coil, 2 cans of Berryman's in the past 12 months, checked EGR function, cleaned EGR ports, and I have checked for vacuum leaks as best I can. Windy has 138,000 miles on her.

Unless someone chimes in my next plan of attack is:
- re-check the function of the DPFE
- new Autolite 105 style plugs that are supposed to be a bit longer than the 700 series I now have installed
- remove injectors for inspection or cleaning
- check fuel pressure
- install new fuel filter (current one has 15,000 on it)

Thanks to anyone who offered help previously.

I installed the new coil purchased through Amazon. Fit well. No issues there. Unfortunately Windy is still bucking/missing when slowly accelerating from low speed and low RPM while in 3rd or 4th gear.

To date I have installed new wires (plugs have about 25,000 on them), new DPFE, new coil, 2 cans of Berryman's in the past 12 months, checked EGR function, cleaned EGR ports, and I have checked for vacuum leaks as best I can. Windy has 138,000 miles on her.

Unless someone chimes in my next plan of attack is:
- re-check the function of the DPFE
- new Autolite 105 style plugs that are supposed to be a bit longer than the 700 series I now have installed
- remove injectors for inspection or cleaning
- check fuel pressure
- install new fuel filter (current one has 15,000 on it)

Thanks to anyone who offered help previously.
Just before to make another attempt, maybe you could just check the spark plugs ( at least the 3 one at the front) and see if there are clean; my winnie has a lot of milage, and from time to time I have to clean 1 spark plug ( fortunatly at the front of the engine), because the valve seals leave a little bit of oil coming inside of the combustion chamber, and cause a light misfire of the spark plug.

My winnie exhibited similar problems, it would occassionally buck at hwy speeds and die at idle. In my case it ended up being the mass air flow sensor. No codes were ever set. When the problem became quite frequent I tried cleaning the MAF, that helped some so I bought a used one for $60 from a boneyard and havent had a problem since. Again the bucking was intermittent, not a continual problem. Another area to consider is the camshaft synchronizer, is there a whine coming from the synchro, if so pull sensor off and see if there is any damage evident, if so the bearings in the synchro are bad. Others have had problems with the fuel pump relay. In the 2000 the horn & fuel pump relay are the same, try swaping relays. Just a few thoughts for areas you haven't considered yet.

OK. Thanks to you both. Cleaning the plugs and the MAF are not difficult or expensive so it is worth a try. I did look at just one of the front plugs and it looked fine, but I will check all three again.

The front 3 plugs are in excellent condition (APP 765's). I cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner. Still bucking. Onto the the other items on the list. I will be back.

.....- new Autolite 105 style plugs that are supposed to be a bit longer than the 700 series I now have installed
......


Does this mean the top of the plug is longer? OK. Or this mean the threaded portion is longer? Not good! I would not want any greater protrusion toward the piston crown.

I'm assuming you have no CEL's? Have you tried disconnecting/plugging the control hose on the EGR valve? Drive until you get a CEL and have the codes read. Look for any codes that don't have to do with the EGR.

Did you reset the codes, after your Fix?
Anytime you throw a DTC, Fix, and reset code, otherwise you must go through a drive cycle.

Example:

See http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970921

No AutoScanner -
1) disconnect your battery
2) Touch the pos side cable to gnd.
3) Connect your battery back up.
This will reset all your Computers + control modules to a know state, so you can fix this van.

What is the heat range, plug gap, thread diameter, thread lenght, and all specs of your plugs? They should meet the OEM specs of your Windstar to work great at all RPM range.
The gap should be 0.054" and the Heat range should be 5 (hottest). Not all brands use same heat range scale.

The more is hot, the more the internal thread is long (not visible).

I already had a Windstar 99 3.8L with NGK TR55GP plugs, and they work perfectly.
Your plug should look like this:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/partcloseup.asp?stocknumber=3403&partnumber=TR55GP

I'm sure you DON'T need a new fuel filter.

I don't recommand you to disconnect the battery to reset PCM, it'll be worse the 5 first minutes, then will remain to the same problem.

If you're sure that plugs are good, check the IMRC. Cleaner may not be enough.
At which RPM do you feel the difference?

Have you replaced alternator recently? A bad alternator can damage the PCM partially and result in engine roughness.

Wow, that's a lot to reply to.

No codes have ever been set with this problem. I may pull the vac hose to the EGR to see what comes up in the codes.

Both the APP 105 and 765 plugs are listed for the '99 3.8L Windstar. The 105's appear to have a longer threaded section than the 765's now in the engine. One fellow who had this problem told me he got rid of it by switching to the 105's. Some say it is good and some say it is bad. These plugs (the 765's) worked perfectly for almost 25,000 miles, it is only the past 5,000 miles or so that I have had this problem.

Alternator was new last year.

I have a code scanner so I never clear CEL's by disconnecting the battery.

Problem happens in 3rd or 4th gear, low RPM's, usually while trying to climb a hill or slight grade under low acceleration. If you tip into it the miss never happens. It has been getting steadily worse in the past month and seems to be more prominent on damp days.

To repeat what I have done so far:
-new coil
-new wires
-new DPFE,
-cleaned MAF
-checked plugs
-checked DPFE function
-looked for obvious vacuum leaks
-IMRC links are connected and both IMRC's seem to be functioning as best I can see

Thanks, All

You've done a lot of things! It should be frustrating when nothing work.
Test your fuel pressure. It could be the fuel pressure regulator.
At idle, pressure should be between 28-45 psi (36 average)
when pushing on gas, it should be between 45-65 psi.
check also the air filter
if it's not working, next step is try to change the PCM.

I don't have a pressure tester.

I just did a test by plugging EGR port and the vacuum line to the port and drove it for about 15 minutes. I noticed no difference in how it ran. It still misses/bucks going up hills. I did not get a CEL either.

You said that you checked obvious vacuum leak. You mean vacuum hoses? Cause it can coming from the inside of intake manifold too. Use a vacuum gauge tester.

I remember someone get exactly the same problem as you describe with a 2000 Windstar. It was the PCM in his case. Because these kind of symptoms are frequents, I can't guarantee that it's the PCM.

BTW, try to avoid up hills at most, they are very bad for the auto transaxle.
And always climb it w/o the overdrive.

Is this a WOT with random Misfires ?

See http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=882939

Suspect a dirty throttle body or bad MAF sensor, because of PCV and EGR Emissions.

Yon need alot of Air for 200HP, not bad emission gunk.

Is this a WOT with random Misfires ?.

Unfortunately Windy is still bucking/missing when slowly accelerating from low speed and low RPM while in 3rd or 4th gear.

not misfire, just bucking

.....I just did a test by plugging EGR port and the vacuum line to the port and drove it for about 15 minutes. I noticed no difference in how it ran. It still misses/bucks going up hills. I did not get a CEL either....

The EGR will only be activated during periods of high rpm and loads ... so it may take quite a few highway miles to trigger the CEL.

>Still bucking.

>No codes have ever been set with this problem.

This is probably a long shot, but it is possible that it's not the engine, but the TCC instead. My Windstar has a long standing problem of "chatter" from the torque converter that I used to think was a misfire. It would happened a ~30-50 mph, when under load, but not hard acceleration. This would occur not only under acceleration, but also while cruising.

After the transmission was overhauled I learned the real cause of the "shudder".

In OP, he saids that he check the EGR valve operation.
To be 100% sure, the best is to go to highway when engine is below 113F (cold mark). Cause the EGR activates only beyond this temp. If it's not possible, disconnect the ECT and go at 50 mph. Then stop and reconnect it the fast as possible (within 10 minutes).

Poor deliverable of a engine, can give a false symptom of a hydraulic transmission.
A bad TCC shutter is while the auto is in motion.

I heard of a good transmission, and engine being replaced at the customers expense.

The root problem was the drive-by-wire system, had a stickey throttle plate.

MAF sensors only throw codes when hard at fault, but a slow one with a dirty throttle body will not.

Try running with your fingers in your nose, and see how fast you can go without a misfire.

Yes, thought so, 12Ounce. Not enough drive time to set codes.

For the other ideas, it is interesting to note that this engine ingests LOTS of oil-even after the new valve cover retrofit. In the past 3-4 months I have had the upper plenum off twice to mop up all the oil pools. The throttle body was filthy and loaded with oil film. I cleaned the ICR as it too as loaded with oil scum. EGR ports are clean, but the lower plenum and intake ports are covered with oil scum.

If it does not rain tomorrow I may pull the injectors out and inspect them.

I am determined.

Think of bucking as gasping for AIR, that could lead up to a misfire.

If you are pulling the injectors out, consider a diesel shop for cleaning.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=906693

If I had to describe the problem with human references I would say that Windy feels like she is gasping for air when she bucks. Just like you said, running with your fingers up your nose.

I have so many things to try now I may never be able to do them all. Especially the tranny rebuild. I could not rule that out as a problem though. Tranny shudder at low RPM's has always been an issue with this vehicle.

check the compression on all cylinders, because it ingests oil.

Oh no; yet another item to check. Now I need a fuel pressure tester and a compression tester.

I do appreciate all the inputs. Really.

Even my '96 pulls in a lot of oil......even with a big Greddy catch can in the PCV line.
I am wondering if this is all caused by the TCC as you mention.
Maybe having a trusted mechanic check it out......as you can end up pulling your hair out and buying a lot of stuff and find out that it was the tranny all along....and that can be expensive.
Some tranny problems are cheap....but there are some Torque Converter Clutch problems that you have to tear down the tranny to repair.
What has me wondering this is......from your description....it should be severe enough to be setting failure codes(s) and lighting the CEL if it is a problem with the engine.

Check the fluid. If it's too high on the stick or not clean, it indicates a TC problem.
I don't think any mechanic can diagnose transmission problem properly. Only trans specialists are able to do that.

...... it is interesting to note that this engine ingests LOTS of oil-even after the new valve cover retrofit. .........The throttle body was filthy and loaded with oil film. I cleaned the ICR as it too as loaded with oil scum. EGR ports are clean, but the lower plenum and intake ports are covered with oil scum. .....
.

Hmmm ... now you have me thinking there is something amiss with the PCV system. Not only does the valve have to be in good shape ... but the engine block has to be free of air leaks for the system to work properly. If too much air gets into the lower crankcase ... too much water vapor and oil ends up in the intake area ... scum! Lots of places for leaks ... lower manifold gaskets, oil pan gaskets, front cover, etc, etc .... and, of course, HOSES! So a leak can cause (too much) oil to be sucked out of the crankcase .... of course, so can ring blow-by in a worn engine ... but the 3.8 has a really fine crankcase ... quite rugged.

One other symptom of my TCC shudder was that when cruising, it occurs very regularly if the A/C is turned on (~ every 20 secs), but much less often and less predictable if the A/C is off. It doesn't matter if the O/D is disabled, since lockup is used in third gear too.

It happens for a few seconds at a time, but it can be interrupted by letting off the accelerator pedal. I don't get any codes from it, even when it's happening frequently (i.e. with the A/C on).

12 Ounce! I just took the upper plenum off again (did it 3 weeks ago) and I once again found lots of oil. A large amount of oil has accumulated again and this after installing a "catch can". This much oil and oil vapor being drawn into the engine intake can't be good. I am starting to line up with you on a possible issue with the PCV system.

How long do you think I can drive it with the line from the PCV valve to the throttle bottle disconnected and plugged up? I know the engine needs to breathe, but I wanted to see if the bucking condition cleared up.

The lower sections of the intake manifold are covered with dark brown crud and goo, but the EGR ports are still open.

BTW: DPFE is working. I saw a voltage change with engine speed change. I got vacuum from the heater line.

Hey, would you believe I got the upper plenum off without taking off the cowling?

I just had a similar problem with my 2001 GT 3.8L. My car would buck even at low speeds. The bucking would come and go while driving. I cleaned the MAF sensor and the problem temporarily went away. After a week the problem was back. I read an article that the MAF sensor design was prone to intermittent problems and would cause this type of fault without a service engine light. I replaced the sensor and after several months of driving the vehicle can safely state that the problem is gone.
Hope this will help.

Pat53

....How long do you think I can drive it with the line from the PCV valve to the throttle bottle disconnected and plugged up? I know the engine needs to breathe, but I wanted to see if the bucking condition cleared up.....

Actually the PCV systems originally were mandated by the government to keep crankcase fumes out of the atmosphere ... the car-guys were forced into compliance kicking and screaming all the way ... then, guess what?: the car-guys were surprised to find that the mandated PCV system was beneficial to the engine!! Crankcases suddenly were much cleaner than they had ever been before!

Anyway, as a test, you can certainly plug the intake manifold at both points ... but "vent" the crankcase as best you can. Unplug the PCV valve, and supply lines, from the covers and leave the remaining holes open for free breathing ...

Hopefully it won't cause a mess. Years ago, metal gauze was used to keep stuff out of the engine ... and control the oil splash a bit. Oil caps, back then, were often filled with metal mesh and allowed air into the engine upper.

BTW ... have you inspected the oill filler cap? It might be your leak source.

Poor deliverable of a engine, can give a false symptom of a hydraulic transmission.
A bad TCC shutter is while the auto is in motion.

I heard of a good transmission, and engine being replaced at the customers expense.

The root problem was the drive-by-wire system, had a stickey throttle plate.

MAF sensors only throw codes when hard at fault, but a slow one with a dirty throttle body will not.

Try running with your fingers in your nose, and see how fast you can go without a misfire.

Isolate the EGR + PCV systems from the loop.
Focus on the Engine 1st.

Please elaborate.

I don't think that it caused my the PCV valve, althought it can be bad.
It worth to test the MAF sensor for proper operation. Use a voltmeter.

I've been giving this mess lots of thought and here is where I am:
- obviously lots of oil being drawn into intake via PCV system
- my catch can has not worked all that well; some oil has been trapped, but not much; maybe I need to mount the can lower
- I wonder if the oil vapor quantity being drawn in is enough to lower the octane rating of the fuel/air charge and this is causing the miss?
- I wonder what all this burned oil mist is doing to the rings, piston tops, valves, 02 sensors, and catalytic converter?
- what is causing this much oil to be drawn in? Bad rings? I have not checked compression, but she runs very well except for the miss problem.

Unless someone tells me to stop I am plan to run the van a while with the PCV valve breathing to atmosphere and the line going to the throttle body plugged. I want to see if the problem goes away and if the plenum cleans up.

Should I?

- I wonder if the oil vapor quantity being drawn in is enough to lower the octane rating of the fuel/air charge and this is causing the miss?

No, the oil doesn't lower the octane rating. And octane rating have nothing to do with air mixture and miss. Your Windy doesn't ingest enough oil to miss. If it was the case, you should see blue smock at exhaust, and CEL flashing and stall at idle, which it's not your case.


- I wonder what all this burned oil mist is doing to the rings, piston tops, valves, 02 sensors, and catalytic converter?

Oil does nothing but help rings, valves, pistons to perform better. Yes, it may clog the O2 sensor but not that much. And nothing to the catalyst.

- what is causing this much oil to be drawn in? Bad rings? I have not checked compression, but she runs very well except for the miss problem.

Yes rings and valve guide. But when it's valve guide, you may expect more oil that that. Hom much oil do you put each 200 miles?


Unless someone tells me to stop I am plan to run the van a while with the PCV valve breathing to atmosphere and the line going to the throttle body plugged. I want to see if the problem goes away and if the plenum cleans up.

Should I?

No, cause dirt can enter in your engine and wear it. Check the valve condition, and replace it as necessary. Once again, I doubt that it's the cause of your problem. I think the problem is the PCM or battery connection.

I remember, one time my system voltage was low (no belt installed), and when the gear changed, the engine stumbled. Cause the PCM wasn't getting enough power, so it had trouble to control the engine. When belt was back, the stumbling gone.

Messing with the PCM is beyond my ability, but I can check the battery terminals.

Serge, maybe the octane rating does not change, but I still have to think that oil vapor being ingested with the fuel/air charge would have to lower the detonation temperature, Oui?

Serge! I checked the battery voltage after the van sat all night. I was surprised to see that the resting voltage was only 11.7 volts. That is very low, n'est pas?

I cleaned the terminals (not too dirty) and checked the running voltage, which was about 14.5 volts. After 30 minutes of resting it had fallen to 11.8 volts. The battery is a 72 month guarantee battery bought in December 2005.

What do you think?

You can get your battery checked out at most auto part stores.

As far as disconnecting the PCV line,,,,that is NOT a good idea.
The PCV line draws contamination out of the crankcase......which would otherwise cause the oil to break down and cause major sludge problems.
Unless you are having to add oil very often....what looks like a lot of oil really is not much at all.
Using a catch can to reduce oil in the intake is OK (I do it myself), but you do NOT want to reduce the airflow through the system from what FORD designed.
I also use ONLY Motorcraft PCV valve that is listed for the vehicle.
It is amazing the aftermarket PCV valves that I have seen listed for my windstar.
While a PCV valve is a very simple device.....the engineering involved is very precise.
A PCV valve is a metering device.....the one for the windstar (as with many other vehicles) has a spring inside.....and a tapered valve and valve seat.
It is designed to deliver a given air flow under varying vaccum conditions.
As vaccum increases....more air will pass through the same size opening, so the spring and valve combination make the opening smaller as vaccum increases.

So, the condensed version, as long as you have the correct Motorcraft PCV valve, in working order.....you are fine as far as the PCV system is concerned.

With the correct valve cover (with the baffel) excessive oil through the PCV system (as evidenced by needing to add oil frequently) would be cause by some engine problem, like valve guide seals (not common on windstar).

I can't believe that the suggestion of temporarily disconnecting the PCV has drawn such negative comments. No one has suggested eliminating the PCV! We all know the PCV to be beneficial .... Geez!

Here are my exact words .....

......Anyway, as a test, you can certainly plug the intake manifold at both points ... but "vent" the crankcase as best you can. Unplug the PCV valve, and supply lines, from the covers and leave the remaining holes open for free breathing ...


.... If read slowly, one realizes perhaps I'm not advocating engine destruction! The "test" should be reasonable ... a few days, a few hundred miles, at most. Oh, "BTW" ... avoid sand storms ... don't cross deep mountain streams ... and brush after every meal!

Serge! I checked the battery voltage after the van sat all night. I was surprised to see that the resting voltage was only 11.7 volts. That is very low, n'est pas?

I cleaned the terminals (not too dirty) and checked the running voltage, which was about 14.5 volts. After 30 minutes of resting it had fallen to 11.8 volts. The battery is a 72 month guarantee battery bought in December 2005.

What do you think?

11.7V is acceptable. You should be afraid when it lowers under 11V.

I think you both are on to something with the low battery voltage. I would prefer to see 12.25volts as an "overnight" rest baseline low. I think the battery needs to be replaced.

Some good bedtime reading on PCV's:
.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Positive_Crankcase_Ventilation

You guys sure are nice to help out. I never intended this to go out to 3 pages.

First, my intention in disconnecting the hose from the PCV valve to the throttle inlet was just temporary. Not even a hundred miles. I wanted to see if the miss would go away. Also wanted to see if the plenum would clean up.

Second, and pardon my ignorance, isn't the battery voltage the same as alternator output when the van is running? In other words, when the van is running isn't my battery output adequate to run the PCM? To me, 11.7 volts resting seems awfully low. I measured all my other cars and they ranged from 12.4 to 12.8 at rest.

Thirdly, I noticed today that the PCV valve was extremely loose in the valve cover grommet hole. Does the PCV system need a real tight seal there for proper function? I want to try a Motorcraft brand PCV valve. I currently have a Purolator 521 in it. New a few weeks ago when I installed the catch can (or should I call it a catchless can as it did not work very well they way I had it hooked up.

I wish you all a nice Thanksgiving (Serge celebrated last month).

For the PVC, it's a way to check it.
*Start engine and remove the valve. Feel pressure at the PCV valve cover (by pressing your finger in the hole)
*Then feel vacuum at the valve (your skin should be aspirated by the valve).
*If there's no vaccum/pressure, check vacuum at the PCV hose. You'll no know if it's the valve or the hose that should be replaced....or maybe cleaned.
*Check also if the rubber grommet in the cover is cracked or damaged.

Serge, the PCV valve is working. Hose is not clogged. Grommet in good condition, but note that I noticed today the valve was very loose in the grommet hole (I wrapped electrical tape around the valve body and now it is nice and tight). I will check for positive pressure at the grommet hole. Merci.

Still wondering about low battery voltage......and clutching for straws.

Second, and pardon my ignorance, isn't the battery voltage the same as alternator output when the van is running? In other words, when the van is running isn't my battery output adequate to run the PCM? To me, 11.7 volts resting seems awfully low. I measured all my other cars and they ranged from 12.4 to 12.8 at rest.

Yes, sure...the alternator supply all the electric devices with enough power.
What I meant is if it's a bad contact on the battery terminal, the alternator's regulator could arc high voltage at output and damage the PCM. Cause the regulator is made with inductive coil and give more voltage when resistance increase. V=R*I

I checked the back three plugs and they look fine. Also looked more intently for possible vacuum leaks. The only issue I saw was a very loose interface between a large diameter hose going from the rear of the throttle body to a climate control valve. I put a clamp on one end of the hose.

What do you think about the possibility of the cat converter clogging?

What do you think about the possibility of the cat converter clogging?

This is very rare. If it was the case, your engine will run very roughly at idle.

If you run with O/D off on an up hill, is it buck/miss?

Yeah, I doubt it is the cat. The acceleration is very strong and it idles smooth.

Sometimes it will buck even when the O/D is switched off while going uphill. It will buck in 3rd or 4th gear.

Just drove it quite a while after clamping the vacuum hose and I could not make it buck in the usual hilly places around town. Tomorrow I am off to VT. That will be the ultimate test: lots of hills and six people in the van.

It may be the fuel pressure regulator, pull the vacuum hose off of it and if raw fuel spills out, the regulator is bad. My mustang would buck at low speed and the idle would surge and sometimes stall when I was stopped. I would also check the IAC(Idle Air Control Valve) if your winny has one, I almost certain it does.

Good suggestion. First I need to locate this device as I am not familiar with it. Is that test while running or not running?

I cleaned the IAC just a short time ago. Seems to idle very smoothly.

No fuel is spurting out of the top of the fuel pressure regulator vacuum port while running or at rest. The U-shaped vacuum line and rubber boots are in very good condition; no cracks or holes that I could see.

Tomorrow I am off to VT. That will be the ultimate test: lots of hills and six people in the van.

Let the trans cool down sometime, if not, you may break it. Always climb in 3rd.

When I travel with my Winny, I avoid up hill most as possible. It must be the reason why my trans keep that long. I check the altitude with map 3D to find the best roads.

Sort of unavoidable tomorrow as my relatives live in a mountainous area. I try not to hammer the old girl though.

The driving in "3rd" is accomplished by pressing the O/D button to disable the O/D.
You want to do this when you find your transmission shifting between gears.
It is when it is shifting that it generates the most heat.
When going up steep hills....it is not uncommon for the transmission to seem to "hunt" shifting up and down.......this is what you want to avoid.

Avoiding hills is not an option in certain parts of the country.
Some places.....if you are not going uphill......then you must be going downhill.
Interstate highways tend to be less intense with the hills.

Yup, I used the O/D button a lot yesterday.

I recently had a similar set of symptoms with the almost missing and bucking as I went up hills.

I wound up replacing the IAC, and the symptoms appear to have disappeared. About a thousand miles and counting so far.

BK

Possible solution!!!

I had my Windstar in for the 288K checkup today, and the mechanic test drove it to see about the bucking I was also experiencing.

He recommended that I visit the transmission repair shop where I had the transmission rebuilt about 50K miles ago.

So I did. We went for a ride around his "test track", in-town driving, with the bucking coming back on almost every slight uphill grade. He asked about whether the fluid is the same as when they rebuilt the transmission, and I told him the story of getting the oil pan punctured.

We got back to his shop, and he poured in a 6 oz (or so) bottle of Motorcraft Friction Modifier, which he also referred to as that "stinky" additive. (It was enough to gag a gnu through the lid and the seal!)

After driving about 15 miles, with NO more shuddering, I have the following to report:

The problem is related to the Torque Converter. The addition of the Friction Modifier appears to have resolved THAT problem!

I am cautiously optimistic...

By the way, the transmission guy says that Ford recommends this to resolve this problem.

Hope it keeps working! I'll report back if I have a recurrence of the problem.

BK