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Wiels
10-20-2009, 01:28 AM
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: fort erie
Posts: 2
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Re: indicator lights
This is he, not p brake lol ;error codes p1537, bank one stuck open. p156,ho. p161,ho2522 heater circuit fault
Last edited by Wiels (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/posthistory.php?p=6042501); 09-28-2009 at 06:16 PM. Reason: wrong code #Need child proof diagram I don't have very good eyesight ,broken back and no money I would appreciate any help I can get, Please!
Location: fort erie
Posts: 2
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Re: indicator lights
This is he, not p brake lol ;error codes p1537, bank one stuck open. p156,ho. p161,ho2522 heater circuit fault
Last edited by Wiels (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/posthistory.php?p=6042501); 09-28-2009 at 06:16 PM. Reason: wrong code #Need child proof diagram I don't have very good eyesight ,broken back and no money I would appreciate any help I can get, Please!
Airjer_
10-20-2009, 09:55 AM
I'm having a hard time following either of your posts!
serge_saati
10-20-2009, 07:38 PM
Re: indicator lights
This is he, not p brake lol ;error codes p1537, bank one stuck open. p156,ho. p161,ho2522 heater circuit fault
Last edited by Wiels (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/posthistory.php?p=6042501); 09-28-2009 at 06:16 PM. Reason: wrong code #Need child proof diagram I don't have very good eyesight ,broken back and no money I would appreciate any help I can get, Please!
About your power brake problem, you may have a problem with the brake booster. Cause the power brake is controlled with the air vacuum. Check the vacuum hoses, or maybe you need a new brake booster. DON'T replace the master cylinder.
About the the p1537 code, it's a problem with the IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Control) valve. The valve that control the power in the intake manifold. This affect engine behavior. It'll not damage your engine, unless you accelerate too much, or drive more than 2000 miles. Try to clean the air plenum with carburetor cleaner. Which year is your Windstar?
About your p156 et p161 code, it's a problem with your rear catalytic's oxygen sensors (downstream).
It should not affect the performance of your car nor the fuel economy, only increasing the emission. You have 2 codes, cause your O2 sensors have 2 problems. So you don't need to replace them, only if want to reduce emission.
This is he, not p brake lol ;error codes p1537, bank one stuck open. p156,ho. p161,ho2522 heater circuit fault
Last edited by Wiels (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/posthistory.php?p=6042501); 09-28-2009 at 06:16 PM. Reason: wrong code #Need child proof diagram I don't have very good eyesight ,broken back and no money I would appreciate any help I can get, Please!
About your power brake problem, you may have a problem with the brake booster. Cause the power brake is controlled with the air vacuum. Check the vacuum hoses, or maybe you need a new brake booster. DON'T replace the master cylinder.
About the the p1537 code, it's a problem with the IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Control) valve. The valve that control the power in the intake manifold. This affect engine behavior. It'll not damage your engine, unless you accelerate too much, or drive more than 2000 miles. Try to clean the air plenum with carburetor cleaner. Which year is your Windstar?
About your p156 et p161 code, it's a problem with your rear catalytic's oxygen sensors (downstream).
It should not affect the performance of your car nor the fuel economy, only increasing the emission. You have 2 codes, cause your O2 sensors have 2 problems. So you don't need to replace them, only if want to reduce emission.
wiswind
10-20-2009, 09:16 PM
Need to know the year of your windstar.
IMRC....Intake Manifold Runner Control.
It is kind of like a modern day version of the 4 barrel carborator.
Above a certain RPM under hard accelleration.....a additional port is opened for each cylinder.
This port is opened an closed by a plate (butterfly) that is mounted on a shaft that passes through the lower intake manifold.
This is a link to a picture of the ports for 1 cylinder in the lower intake manifold on my '96 3.8L....the left hand port has the plate that is in the open position.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1201999780011220610BGkBnV
The 1999 and newer use a electric unit to open and close the IMRC.
The 1998 and older use 2 vaccum units to open and close the IMRC.....1 for the front bank.....the other for the Rear Bank.
The rear bank is bank 1, and the front bank is bank 2.
P1537 is the sensor for the REAR bank.....bank 1.
It is indicating that it is stuck OPEN
For 1999 and newer, common cause is the clips that connect the IMRC shaft to the actuator (part that turns the shaft) having become disconnected.
For 1998 and older....common cause is a leak in the diaphram of the actuator.....causing the actuator to loose vaccum....and the ability to close.
Both actuators are fed from the SAME vaccum line.
The 1998 and older has a spring in each bank that holds the IMRC OPEN.....and when you start the motor....vaccum from the intake passes through a electrically controled valve....and pulls the IMRC CLOSED.
The actuators are expensive for the 1998 and older.
If the IMRC is to be stuck in a open or closed position.....it is BEST to be stuck CLOSED as you will have a better (smoother) running engine.
If stuck open, then you can have roughness, stalling or possible lean codes.
If, as is being indicated, just 1 bank is stuck OPEN....and the other bank is closed, then your computer is struggling to try to ballance the 2 sides of the motor....rear bank getting MORE air.......front bank getting LESS air.
It is possible that BOTH banks are the same.......just that 1 is not tripping the OPEN sensor.
On the 1998 and older, there is a sensor inside each of the 2 actuators.
I am not familiar with the 1999 and newer's electrical actuator/sensor.
************
P0156 Downstream Oxygen sensor bank 2 (front bank) (after catalytic conveter) circuit malfunction
P0161 sensor bank 2 HEATER circuit malfuntion
You have 2 catalytic converters......1 for the front bank of cylinders (bank 2) and 1 for the rear bank of cylinders.
"Downstream" means downstream from the catalytic converter.
This sensor ONLY monitors the exhaust coming out of the catalytic converter....to determine if it is working.
It sounds like the problem is with the SENSOR and NOT the catalytic converter as the failure is with a circuit......and also with the heater.
The oxygen sensors have a heater inside.....to heat the chemical inside the sensor to the temperature that it needs to be in order to work.
These codes could be something as simple as the plug for that sensor being unplugged.....or some broken wire along the way.
As I recall.....there are 4 wires inside the cable to each oxygen sensor.....2 for the heater and 2 to carry the voltage that the chemical generates as a result of the difference in oxygen in the air in the tail pipe and the oxygen in the atmosphere.
The original catalytic converter assembly from my 1996 3.8L had the bank 2 downstream oxygen sensor mounted in the pipe.....downstream from the front catalytic converter......about even with the middle of the rear-most catalytic converter.....mounted into the TOP of the pipe.
Here is a link to my factory original unit, next to the replacement unit.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1291096027011220610mzvEni
In the picture, the oxygen sensors are still mounted in the original unit.....and you can see the downstream sensor for bank #2 about even with the left hand converter in the picture (the bank 2 converter is on the right....).
On the vehicle......the front of the vehicle would be on the right.
You can also see the downstream sensor for bank #1 (rear bank...and left hand converter) is mounted into the rear of the converter body.....if yours is this way....DO NOT TOUCH it if you can avoid it.
When I gently turned that sensor....the mounting bung broke right out of the converter body....
Not a problem for me as I was replacing the converters anyhow.....due to rattling insides.
I am placing emphasis on checking the wiring to the downstream sensor......could have dropped down from its mounting and come in contact with a hot exhaust component.....or become unplugged or gotten caught in something......
A new sensor costs VERY roughly $50....plus installation.
Not a tough job......tracking down wiring can be tough.
If your other downstream sensor is NOT mounted into the rear of the converter body....one could switch the 2 downstream sensors and see if the problem moves with the sensor.
If you do this.......you would switch the sensor locations.....AND switch the wire plugs.
MARK the wires before you disconnect them.
If you do this.....remember that the computer will HOLD the error code for a while after you have solved the problem.....so you may want to clear the codes and see what new codes may come up.
As far as the catalytic converters....which from the information given.....would seem to still be good.....so I would not be looking to replace them.
Replacing them.......the catalytic converters come as 1 assembly.....called a "Y" pipe.
The OEM unit from FORD for my '96 lists for about $1600......and I was able to find it as low as $1200 online.
The replacement unit in the picture is the Walker "Direct Fit" unit that, at the time was $321.
It was not a fun job replacing it.....but what exhaust work is fun?
If you live in California.....catalytic converter replacement may be more restricted.
However, believe in many parts of the country, including where I live.....it is not legal for a junkyard to sell you a "used" catalytic converter.
IMRC....Intake Manifold Runner Control.
It is kind of like a modern day version of the 4 barrel carborator.
Above a certain RPM under hard accelleration.....a additional port is opened for each cylinder.
This port is opened an closed by a plate (butterfly) that is mounted on a shaft that passes through the lower intake manifold.
This is a link to a picture of the ports for 1 cylinder in the lower intake manifold on my '96 3.8L....the left hand port has the plate that is in the open position.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1201999780011220610BGkBnV
The 1999 and newer use a electric unit to open and close the IMRC.
The 1998 and older use 2 vaccum units to open and close the IMRC.....1 for the front bank.....the other for the Rear Bank.
The rear bank is bank 1, and the front bank is bank 2.
P1537 is the sensor for the REAR bank.....bank 1.
It is indicating that it is stuck OPEN
For 1999 and newer, common cause is the clips that connect the IMRC shaft to the actuator (part that turns the shaft) having become disconnected.
For 1998 and older....common cause is a leak in the diaphram of the actuator.....causing the actuator to loose vaccum....and the ability to close.
Both actuators are fed from the SAME vaccum line.
The 1998 and older has a spring in each bank that holds the IMRC OPEN.....and when you start the motor....vaccum from the intake passes through a electrically controled valve....and pulls the IMRC CLOSED.
The actuators are expensive for the 1998 and older.
If the IMRC is to be stuck in a open or closed position.....it is BEST to be stuck CLOSED as you will have a better (smoother) running engine.
If stuck open, then you can have roughness, stalling or possible lean codes.
If, as is being indicated, just 1 bank is stuck OPEN....and the other bank is closed, then your computer is struggling to try to ballance the 2 sides of the motor....rear bank getting MORE air.......front bank getting LESS air.
It is possible that BOTH banks are the same.......just that 1 is not tripping the OPEN sensor.
On the 1998 and older, there is a sensor inside each of the 2 actuators.
I am not familiar with the 1999 and newer's electrical actuator/sensor.
************
P0156 Downstream Oxygen sensor bank 2 (front bank) (after catalytic conveter) circuit malfunction
P0161 sensor bank 2 HEATER circuit malfuntion
You have 2 catalytic converters......1 for the front bank of cylinders (bank 2) and 1 for the rear bank of cylinders.
"Downstream" means downstream from the catalytic converter.
This sensor ONLY monitors the exhaust coming out of the catalytic converter....to determine if it is working.
It sounds like the problem is with the SENSOR and NOT the catalytic converter as the failure is with a circuit......and also with the heater.
The oxygen sensors have a heater inside.....to heat the chemical inside the sensor to the temperature that it needs to be in order to work.
These codes could be something as simple as the plug for that sensor being unplugged.....or some broken wire along the way.
As I recall.....there are 4 wires inside the cable to each oxygen sensor.....2 for the heater and 2 to carry the voltage that the chemical generates as a result of the difference in oxygen in the air in the tail pipe and the oxygen in the atmosphere.
The original catalytic converter assembly from my 1996 3.8L had the bank 2 downstream oxygen sensor mounted in the pipe.....downstream from the front catalytic converter......about even with the middle of the rear-most catalytic converter.....mounted into the TOP of the pipe.
Here is a link to my factory original unit, next to the replacement unit.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1291096027011220610mzvEni
In the picture, the oxygen sensors are still mounted in the original unit.....and you can see the downstream sensor for bank #2 about even with the left hand converter in the picture (the bank 2 converter is on the right....).
On the vehicle......the front of the vehicle would be on the right.
You can also see the downstream sensor for bank #1 (rear bank...and left hand converter) is mounted into the rear of the converter body.....if yours is this way....DO NOT TOUCH it if you can avoid it.
When I gently turned that sensor....the mounting bung broke right out of the converter body....
Not a problem for me as I was replacing the converters anyhow.....due to rattling insides.
I am placing emphasis on checking the wiring to the downstream sensor......could have dropped down from its mounting and come in contact with a hot exhaust component.....or become unplugged or gotten caught in something......
A new sensor costs VERY roughly $50....plus installation.
Not a tough job......tracking down wiring can be tough.
If your other downstream sensor is NOT mounted into the rear of the converter body....one could switch the 2 downstream sensors and see if the problem moves with the sensor.
If you do this.......you would switch the sensor locations.....AND switch the wire plugs.
MARK the wires before you disconnect them.
If you do this.....remember that the computer will HOLD the error code for a while after you have solved the problem.....so you may want to clear the codes and see what new codes may come up.
As far as the catalytic converters....which from the information given.....would seem to still be good.....so I would not be looking to replace them.
Replacing them.......the catalytic converters come as 1 assembly.....called a "Y" pipe.
The OEM unit from FORD for my '96 lists for about $1600......and I was able to find it as low as $1200 online.
The replacement unit in the picture is the Walker "Direct Fit" unit that, at the time was $321.
It was not a fun job replacing it.....but what exhaust work is fun?
If you live in California.....catalytic converter replacement may be more restricted.
However, believe in many parts of the country, including where I live.....it is not legal for a junkyard to sell you a "used" catalytic converter.
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