Problem with brakes.

Ok I have a 97 Windstar with about 70K on it.

It's been sitting for at least the past 3 years (it's a spare vehicle) so I've decided to fix it up a little and sell it.

Well, there are only 3 things that need attention.

I'll start with the brakes.

Turn the key, put it in drive, come to a stop sign, hit the brakes. Every time I get below 10 mph, the brakes start to slip as if the ABS is activating.

It doesn't matter if I've been driving for 2 minutes or 2 hours. It doesn't matter if I'm slowing down from 15 mph or 55 mph.

I get the same effect, EVERY time.

I've put new pads/rotors on so that's not the problem.

I've considered draining the brake fluid and putting new fluid in.

I've considered replacing the two front ABS sensors.

I'm not getting an ABS light on the dash.

Check engine light has been on since I've owned it but the code says DPFE sensor.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

That's only two things? :)

Do you hear the ABS pump working when the brakes "start to slip"? If so than I would check the exciter rings for rust build up or see if they are cracked. You can clean them up with a wire brush. The easiest thing to do is monitor speed sensor data when coming to a stop. Whichever one drops out is the one that needs attention.

The DPFE sensor is super common on these. They have been updated numerous time by ford. A scan tool is needed for proper diagnosis. Usually the voltage is stuck high or stuck low. The sensor is the one with the two hoses running to it from the EGR tube that runs to the EGR valve. Make sure those hoses are cracked or leaking also.

What should I listen for to see if the ABS pump is working?

What's an exciter ring?

What do you mean by "monitor speed sensor data"?

Sorry for all the noob questions but I know nothing of ABS.

The pump will make a moaning sound and the pedal will feel like it is vibrating. You've never had the ABS kick in during a stop before?

there is an exciter ring for each wheel. For the fronts it is the part on the drive axle with the notches right below the abs sensor. If those are really rusted or the ring is cracked it will cause problems.

You need a scan tool to read DATA. This is a ten minute job to figure out what is wrong with the right tools.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2030899680011220610romxdY

This link will take you to a picture that is a front view of the front suspention on my '96.
The Exciter ring is labeled in the picture.....looks like a gear.
Just spray it down with a liberal amount of brake cleaner.

Also verify that the sensor is correctly spaced from the "teeth" of the exciter ring......particularly in the rear....they can get bumped...etc and be a tad bit far from the exciter ring...and not give a reliable signal.

As far as brake fluid.....I would recommend a good bleeding of it at each wheel.
Just do it the traditional way....nothing special.
If you have a problem with air getting by the threads of the bleeder screw.....simply remove the bleeder screw and wrap 1 layer of teflon tape on the threads and re-install.

Use FRESH brake fluid from a new bottle that you break the seal on......a bottle of brake fluid that has been sitting around the garage for who knows how long will likely have absorbed moisture.....and not be good.

Some folks have mentioned an issue with getting the bottle of brake fluid to the master cylinder...in that not so convenient location........what I do is leave the cap on the bottle.....position it next to the master cylinder.....remove cap and pour.

You might also need to re-pack the rear wheel bearings.

hi i had this very same problem 2 weeks ago on a similiar windstar it is your hydraulic pump unit attached to the abs unit under the drivers seat under the vehicle.The valves are sticking and they are just dumping and not building up.i tried replacing the master cylinder that didn't fix it.bled the brakes like crazy . Then i found out there was a abs unit with the hydraulic pump attached to it under the vehicle. That is the problem they are $900 for non traction control or $1300 for traction control. Better get one from the bone-yard like i did for 50 bucks. Put it on and bleed the brake and erase codes if any.That should fix you up.

Oh forgot to mention bleeding. Start with front left bleed till no air then the right front then left back then right back. That is procedure some models are different some i seen a x pattern on windstars.Ok bye

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2030899680011220610romxdY


Also verify that the sensor is correctly spaced from the "teeth" of the exciter ring......particularly in the rear....they can get bumped...etc and be a tad bit far from the exciter ring...and not give a reliable signal.



And just how do I know what this "space" is supposed to be? Is it in the Chilton's/Haynes manual?

I hate to bump my own thread but with ANY luck, I'll be checking out this piece of junk Windstar sometime tomorrow. Weather permitting, of course (not having a garage SUCKS!)

Anyway, so I'll have to look at the exciter rings and front sensors. I'm also going to bleed the brakes (they could probably use it by now) and if I have time, I'll check out the rear wheel bearings. I don't understand what rear wheel bearings would have to do with the front brakes, though.

Thank you all for your replies. I will post results as soon as I get them.

Once again, I hate to bump my own thread, but I actually had 10 minutes today to do some quick troubleshooting to this hunk of junk.

At the advice of a co-worker, I pulled the ABS fuse to see if disabling the ABS had any effect on this problem.

As expected, the BRAKE and ABS lights illuminated on the dash, however, the "slipping" problem was GONE!

Now I KNOW it has something to do with the ABS system. I'm definitely going to replace all the ABS sensors and clean the hell out of the exciter rings. Unfortunately, with what little spare time I have, if that doesn't fix the problem, I may be forced to sell this thing as is.

I think replacing all the sensors is a shot in the dark and pretty uneconomical! It only takes one bad one to cause this problem if one is even bad. At $60 a piece all four would run you $240. Diagnostic time at a shop would run you around $100. If a sensor is bad you can still replace it yourself for $60. You just saved yourself $80!

Ok I have a 97 Windstar with about 70K on it.

It's been sitting for at least the past 3 years (it's a spare vehicle) so I've decided to fix it up a little and sell it.

Well, there are only 3 things that need attention.

I'll start with the brakes.

Turn the key, put it in drive, come to a stop sign, hit the brakes. Every time I get below 10 mph, the brakes start to slip as if the ABS is activating.

It doesn't matter if I've been driving for 2 minutes or 2 hours. It doesn't matter if I'm slowing down from 15 mph or 55 mph.

I get the same effect, EVERY time.

I've put new pads/rotors on so that's not the problem.

I've considered draining the brake fluid and putting new fluid in.

I've considered replacing the two front ABS sensors.

I'm not getting an ABS light on the dash.

Check engine light has been on since I've owned it but the code says DPFE sensor.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

I know this problem very well cause I had the same.
This is a simple ABS problem (most probably the ABS sensors).
I've found that is totally useless and worthless to replace these sensors.
What I did to repair this problem, is that I simply remove the 60A ABS mega Fuse. The one who is under the hood (in the distributor box). That's it. Don't remove the one who is in the cockpit.

Now I don't have trouble with brake at all. But of course, the ABS doesn't work, cause it's disabled. But I don't care.

If you want to get rid of the ABS indicator lamp, just burn the ABS bulb, and it'll never show up.

I found that the ABS is one of the most useless device in a car.
It's made for people who don't know how to brake in snow/ice or rain.


About the DPFE sensor, you may simply have to replace it. I suggest you also to check the engine codes at least 3 times in a row. Plug/unplug scanner before. Sometimes, other code appears. You can also clear the codes, so the engine light will get out, but it will appears later.

I know this problem very well cause I had the same.
This is a simple ABS problem (most probably the ABS sensors).
I've found that is totally useless and worthless to replace these sensors.
What I did to repair this problem, is that I simply remove the 60A ABS mega Fuse. The one who is under the hood (in the distributor box). That's it. Don't remove the one who is in the cockpit.

Now I don't have trouble with brake at all. But of course, the ABS doesn't work, cause it's disabled. But I don't care.

If you want to get rid of the ABS indicator lamp, just burn the ABS bulb, and it'll never show up.

I found that the ABS is one of the most useless device in a car.
It's made for people who don't know how to brake in snow/ice or rain.


About the DPFE sensor, you may simply have to replace it. I suggest you also to check the engine codes at least 3 times in a row. Plug/unplug scanner before. Sometimes, other code appears. You can also clear the codes, so the engine light will get out, but it will appears later.

I'd love to do that just to take care of the problem but then my conscience wouldn't let me sell the thing, knowing it has a potentially unsafe problem with it.

I think replacing all the sensors is a shot in the dark and pretty uneconomical!

Not if I get them from a j/y!

I'd love to do that just to take care of the problem but then my conscience wouldn't let me sell the thing, knowing it has a potentially unsafe problem with it.

In a lot of circumstances, driving with ABS is less secure that without ABS.
Especially when you brake suddenly in snow, the car will not stop in time.
You just have to tell the guy that you disable the system, and it may be happy.
My ABS is disabled, and I'm very happy like that.

Not if I get them from a j/y!

How do you know if there good? Will they sell you just the sensors or do they sell them with the hub. Sometimes the places that the sensors sit in rust and make them just about impossible to remove without destroying them. If they have had to get aggressive with them and ruined one while they removed it your back to square one!

I cannot stress enough how easy this project would be if you scanned it and at least had the trouble codes to work with.

Giving advice on how disable any safety feature is in poor judgment. What you do to you vehicle is your business but don't put the safety of other individual whom you don't know and who may not fully understand and accept the the advice given or the consequences of that advice.

Giving advice on how disable any safety feature is in poor judgment. What you do to you vehicle is your business but don't put the safety of other individual whom you don't know and who may not fully understand and accept the the advice given or the consequences of that advice.

He does what he wants, but the facts are:
Many peoples make accident because they HAVE the ABS.
I've never seen a person doing accident because he doesn't have ABS.

In 1999, my cousin rent a new Cavalier '99 with ABS. At red light, he applies the brake on snow, the ABS engage and he hits the car in front of him. The next car was about 20m in front of him. What a stupid accident.
He droved his Civic '88 (w/o ABS) for 11 years in snow, he never had trouble braking.

Peoples drove w/o ABS for 90 years w/o problems, why they need ABS now?

I found myself the ABS annoying. The ABS is not a security feature, it's just the most stupid invention that I ever seen in automotive story.

I've never seen a person doing accident because he doesn't have ABS.

Wow, you mean they just started having vehicle accidents as soon as they started equipping vehicles with ABS?

In 1999, my cousin rent a new Cavalier '99 with ABS. At red light, he applies the brake on snow, the ABS engage and he hits the car in front of him. The next car was about 20m in front of him. What a stupid accident.

How do you know it was the ABS that was at fault? I'm sure there where thousands of other cars that day that had to stop at that red light and never rear ended anyone! I would almost dare to say that maybe somebody was driving beyond the conditions of the road.

He droved his Civic '88 (w/o ABS) for 11 years in snow, he never had trouble braking. Peoples drove w/o ABS for 90 years w/o problems, why they need ABS now?

Most people drive there entire life and never have a flat tire, a fender bender, an airbag deployment, or a vehicle that wouldn't start. So does that mean we shouldn't equip vehicles with technologies like run flat tires, TPMS, better crash safety design, airbags, or fuel injection. Because after all cars ran just fine before any of these!

I found myself the ABS annoying. The ABS is not a security feature, it's just the most stupid invention that I ever seen in automotive story.

Your right ABS is not a security feature its a safety feature. Its only as good as the persons knowledge of how it works. Had your cousin used the ABS to its fullest potential thigs may have had a different outcome. I think its a little ignorant to judge an ABS system based on someone who was not used to how the system worked or how to use it to its full potential. Combine it with stability control systems and its absolutely amazing.

Tell you what, I'll take you for a ride in my Tundra. We'll get up to around 70 out on an ice covered highway. I'll put the gas pedal to the floor for about 5 seconds to show you the bennefits of the stability control system. Then I'll hammer the brakes and demostrate how much control of the vehicle I have. Of course we would do this as safely as we can! Then we'll do the same with your vehicle. I'll bring a tow strap to pull you out of the ditch and a trailer just in case your vehicle is no loger driveable from going in the ditch!!

In 1999, my cousin rent a new Cavalier '99 with ABS. At red light, he applies the brake on snow, the ABS engage and he hits the car in front of him. The next car was about 20m in front of him. What a stupid accident.

How do you know it was the ABS that was at fault? I'm sure there where thousands of other cars that day that had to stop at that red light and never rear ended anyone! I would almost dare to say that maybe somebody was driving beyond the conditions of the road.


Because he tolds me. It was his first experience with ABS, so he didn't know how to use it. The reaction of the ABS was exaggerated.

Ok, I'll go in your Tundra, but not at highway, in the city. I don't want to crash in a corner. I want to see how much the Toyota technology is efficient.

I don't say that my ABS was annoying in ice, but it is in rain or snow. I take shorter distance to stop w/o my ABS, cause I have good tire. Maybe in american cars, the ABS is less efficient, it's why I don't like it.

Alright......

As thrilled as I am that this thread is getting the attention it needs, my problem still is not solved.

Today, I started digging around the passenger side to see what I could find. I ended up snapping the bolt that holds the ABS sensor to the hub. The sensor came out after I coerced it with a dremel :-)

So now that I have the whole hub off so I can get that snapped bolt out, I think I'm going to find one of those scan tools and put the whole mess back together.

Keep in mind, the ABS light never came on until I pulled the fuse. Does this mean I won't get any codes?

Thanks.

Keep in mind, the ABS light never came on until I pulled the fuse. Does this mean I won't get any codes?

The only code that you'll have, is the power failure. Resulting of the removing fuse.

You'll not have the code that permit you to diagnose your real problem, because your car doesn't realize that something is going wrong (which is strange).

But I pretty sure that is a problem with speed sensor or its wire.

You'll be a lot more interested in the data of the wheel speed sensors than the codes. Its the data that will more than likely get you in the right direction!

The only code that you'll have, is the power failure. Resulting of the removing fuse.

You'll not have the code that permit you to diagnose your real problem, because your car doesn't realize that something is going wrong (which is strange).

But I pretty sure that is a problem with speed sensor or its wire.

You mean the VSS? Maybe, but, which one? Aren't there TWO on a Windstar?

Also, how in the hell am I going to get this out:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/saturnstud2000/th_windstarhub2.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v328/saturnstud2000/?action=view&current=windstarhub2.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/saturnstud2000/th_windstarhub.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v328/saturnstud2000/?action=view&current=windstarhub.jpg)

Wonderful....

No I ment the ABS sensor which are also called wheel speed sensor.
It has one on each front wheel. If you have the Limited version, you may also have them on rear wheels.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/wss.jpg

http://www.vr4stealth.com/ABS_speed_sensor.jpg

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Brembo_Big_Brake/pic25.jpg

They are not Windstar pics.

Also, how in the hell am I going to get this out:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/saturnstud2000/th_windstarhub2.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v328/saturnstud2000/?action=view&current=windstarhub2.jpg)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v328/saturnstud2000/th_windstarhub.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v328/saturnstud2000/?action=view&current=windstarhub.jpg)

Wonderful....

Where are the ABS sensors? I don't see them, only the hub.

Where are the ABS sensors? I don't see them, only the hub.
...
I ended up snapping the bolt that holds the ABS sensor to the hub. The sensor came out after I coerced it with a dremel :-)Thanks.

Oh ok. So you don't need to remove the bolts, just place the new sensors here, and add silicone all around, so they will keep in place. Let time for the silicone to dry.

Oh ok. So you don't need to remove the bolts, just place the new sensors here, and add silicone all around, so they will keep in place. Let time for the silicone to dry.


Hmm yes I just might try that.

Ok well here's the scoop. I wasn't able to scrounge any sensors from the j/y. This is only because they would be impossible to remove w/out breaking them.

I ordered the ONE sensor that I broke and I'm going to mount it to the hub as previously suggested.

I did, however, manage to find a DPFE sensor so I hope it works.

Now, I just have to figure out what's causing the speedometer to have erratic readings (VSS anyone?) and that's it.

Now, I just have to figure out what's causing the speedometer to have erratic readings (VSS anyone?) and that's it.

When you mean erratic readings, you mean that it displays higher speed that the real speed or it displays the lowest speed on the gauge (10mph)? It fluctuates?

I'm sure it's not the VSS cause this one is integrated in the transaxle (not in the wheel like the ABS sensor) and it's very reliable.

But it can be a problem with the VSS wire that connect to the PCM or the PCM itself.

For example, in my first Windstar, when I was going at 100km/h it displayed 113km/h. It was a problem with the PCM.

There will be 2 types of VSS for your windstar.
1 for with a mechanical speedmeter
1 for with the electronic speedometer (LED display)

The mechanical speedometer version......the gear turns a shaft....and the speedometer cable plugs into the VSS.....and the shaft inside the VSS turns the speedometer cable....which in turn spins the speedometer.

This unit (for the mechanical speedometer) also has a electrical part......which has a plug...that connects to a wire harness that goes to the PCM.
This part tells the PCM how fast the vehicle is moving....and the PCM uses this for various things.......one of which is knowing how to control the transmission.

The electrical part failed in my '96 windstar this summer......and the PCM did not know how to control the transmission.

The VSS is not a expensive part....but it is a major pain to change.
It is located on the back side of the transmission......located above one of your catalytic converters.
Changing it is done by feel.......hard to get to......pretty much impossible to see.
Follow the speedometer cable down.......as it connects into the VSS.
The VSS is held in place by 1 bolt.......and has the 2 mentioned connections.....Speedometer cable and electrical connection (for the PCM).
The speedometer cable is in 2 parts.....the part that connects to the VSS comes up and connects to the part that goes to the speedometer......this connection is under the flex hose that goes to the throttle body......might be best to remove the flex hose.....so you can see and get at the speedometer cable connection.

The most likely cause of the jumpy speedometer is internal to the speedometer.....maybe a lack of lubrication?

Perhaps you could do a search on speedometer and if that does not get you helpful results.....start a new thread for the speedometer.
I am sure that others have had the problem.....and solved it.
I had the problem.....but it went away before I got around to messing with it.
Wish more problems were like that.

When you mean erratic readings, you mean that it displays higher speed that the real speed or it displays the lowest speed on the gauge (10mph)? It fluctuates?

I'm sure it's not the VSS cause this one is integrated in the transaxle (not in the wheel like the ABS sensor) and it's very reliable.

But it can be a problem with the VSS wire that connect to the PCM or the PCM itself.

For example, in my first Windstar, when I was going at 100km/h it displayed 113km/h. It was a problem with the PCM.

What I mean by erratic readings is that if I go anywhere over 55 mph, the speedo makes a wierd hissing noise and the needle bounces erratically between about 60 and redline.

That is exactly what mine did.....I read something about lubrication inside the speedometer as the solution....but did not follow up on it....as the problem went away after a couple of months.
Mine did this in the winter time....so maybe the cold had something to do with it? although it kept doing it for trips over an hour long.
I am still leaning toward this being a issue with the actual speedometer vs the cable or sensor.

In the past, I also had another problem with my speedometer. Sometime when I was cruising at about 50km/h, it indicates 20km/h (the lowest value). When I accelerated a little bit (up to 60km/h) it remains working correctly. It happened also in the winter only (below 10°C).

Hmmm no this happens regardless of the weather. I've read somewhere that there are gears inside the speedo that get stripped over time. Same thing goes for something inside the transaxle... some gear strips.

I only have about another week to figure this out and then it gets a decorative "For Sale" sign.

I think I'd better start thinking of a good advertising slogan to get rid of this thing because I can already foresee difficulty in selling it.

I think I'd better start thinking of a good advertising slogan to get rid of this thing because I can already foresee difficulty in selling it.


I don't think so. Some peoples are not perfectionism as you and don't look for a perfect condition car. They just need a van for their family or to carry heavy stuffs.

They don't care if the ABS or the speedometer are not working good. Or if the CEL is on. It's a 97, not a brand new car.

The only thing that can frustrate them is the speedometer needle, but I think you can repair it.

That's an interesting perspective!

Well I'm just going to get this sensor put in and then that's it.

Oh.. BTW... I put the fuse for the ABS back in, even with the lack of a front passenger side sensor. The ABS light stayed on but the original problem wasn't there. Perhaps I got lucky and found the problem with just that sensor.

Oh.. BTW... I put the fuse for the ABS back in, even with the lack of a front passenger side sensor. The ABS light stayed on but the original problem wasn't there. Perhaps I got lucky and found the problem with just that sensor.

When the ABS computer detects a problem with the ABS, it disables the ABS circuit. So of course, the car will be able to brake normally, cause there's no more ABS. You are in a similar situation as me.

Before you removed the sensor, the computer "thought" that your sensors working good, but they're not. It's why it activated all the time. Your problem is still not repaired. And we don't know which sensor doesn't work fine.

When the ABS computer detects a problem with the ABS, it disables the ABS circuit. So of course, the car will be able to brake normally, cause there's no more ABS. You are in a similar situation as me.

Before you removed the sensor, the computer "thought" that your sensors working good, but they're not. It's why it activated all the time. Your problem is still not repaired. And we don't know which sensor doesn't work fine.


Wonderful.....

I just though about something. Maybe it's not a problem with the ABS sensors.
If a wheel decelerates more faster that the other, it may activates the ABS system.
Maybe a tire is underinflated, so it spins faster to get the same speed. So when you brake, it decelerate more quickly. All the tires should be inflated at 32psi.

It can be also a misalignment or 1 brake pad is more used that the other side, which affect the braking.

I just though about something. Maybe it's not a problem with the ABS sensors.
If a wheel decelerates more faster that the other, it may activates the ABS system.
Maybe a tire is underinflated, so it spins faster to get the same speed. So when you brake, it decelerate more quickly. All the tires should be inflated at 32psi.

It can be also a misalignment or 1 brake pad is more used that the other side, which affect the braking.

Your input is appreciated. Right now, however, I just do not have the time to look at it.

I don't know if any tires are under inflated but I do know that the brake pads/rotors are fine. I'm going to make an attempt to get to the j/y sometime this weekend so I can make another attempt at getting that sensor. I never picked up the one I ordered because I cannot justify spending THAT much more money on something I'm just going to sell anyway.

I have never had a low/flat tire cause this symptom. At slow speed even a flat tire is providing a speed input. The ABS will engaged if it sees a dramatic drop in its signal from one or more wheels.

with all this thread has contained I think it's too bad that there isn't some sort of tool or machine (:sarcasmsign:) that would allow you to determine which wheel is the culprit....

(my wife calls me a s**t disturber).

Yes, it exists a machine that connect to the PCM and read ALL infos about the driving: accelerating, braking, ABS event... It'll tell for which reason the ABS has been activated, what is the speed of each wheel.

When a serious accident occurs, insurances company use this technique to determine what was the cause of the accident.

Unfortunately, not everyone is equipped with such tool.

Yes, it exists a machine that connect to the PCM and read ALL infos about the driving: accelerating, braking, ABS event... It'll tell for which reason the ABS has been activated, what is the speed of each wheel.

When a serious accident occurs, insurances company use this technique to determine what was the cause of the accident.

:sarcasm1:

And you've seen this magic box that tells all?

I never seen it. But an electronician tells me that. I think that all dealerships have a computer that permit to do that. Ask Toyota if you doubt of it.

Tool or no tool. I now have the sensor and installed it. The ABS light is off but the original problem persists. I was going to attempt changing the ABS module and pump but I just don't have time and quite frankly, I don't care.

It runs, it drives.....

It's for sale.

I don't expect anyone here to ask about it but... $1,300 obo.

You have more chance to sell it if you remove the ABS fuse. Nobody will buy a car that slip each time he apply the brakes.

You have more chance to sell it if you remove the ABS fuse. Nobody will buy a car that slip each time he apply the brakes.

There's some more poor advice! I suppose you wouldn't mention anything to the people that purchased it either?

Seriously for a $100 and 3 weeks ago you could have had this taken care of. How much time and money have you already wasted and have advanced no further than when you made your first post. This likely has nothing to do with any modules or pumps and has a simple fix.

There's some more poor advice! I suppose you wouldn't mention anything to the people that purchased it either?

I'm not a crooker. If I would sell a car w/ ABS disabled, I'll tell them. Anyway, the person will see the ABS light in the dashboard. I'm sure he doesn't mind, unless the buyer is you :).

About the problem, It may be a sensor misalignment issue, but zippy_LiL_SL1 doesn't want to repair it anyway... Too much trouble to repair it.

If you pull the ABS fuse to disable the ABS system, how will the ABS light be on?

If you pull the ABS fuse to disable the ABS system, how will the ABS light be on?

The mega fuse of the ABS supply only to the ABS pump, not the module. The module system will detect no voltage at the pump and the light will be on.
It's the case in my van.

Ohhhh, so you have to pull a specific fuse in order to disable a safety feature and have the light illuminate all at the same time.

I think you don't understand. The light is ON because I removed the fuse. The system detects that the power circuit of the ABS is not supplied so it displays the warning.
The ABS computer module is still supplied with the 12V and still computing data.

If you want to try, remove the ABS fuse of your truck, run for 1/4 mile, and the ABS light will display in your dashboard. Then turn off the engine, and place the fuse back. When you'll start again, the light will not be there.

I have 14 years in the business and specialize in electrical and drivability. I have a pretty good handle on things. Like I tell the people I deal with. If the repair is expensive it my not be worthwhile based on the value of the car. If the repair is simple/cheap why not fix it. You don't know which it will be until you have it looked at. The time to find out if it might have helped a situation is not after the situation is over. I would also question a persons liability in a major accident if it was determined that the ABS was deliberately disabled?

I'm sorry you don't understand the benefits or how to use your ABS effectively. If it is engaging regularly in poor driving conditions than maybe your driving beyond the conditions of the road, essential its your driving that's the problem not the ABS! Slowing down might be a better resolution rather than disabling a perfectly good system doing what it is supposed to do.

I'm driving slowly, but sometime there's ice hidden under the snow, how I should know that before? And I always feel more control on the car by pumping the brake rather than letting the ABS do it's job, cause it doesn't brake enough hard.

I'm not the only one who do that, the FIA disable the ABS and traction control on all the F1 vehicles. Some drivers are more happy, cause it's more sporty to drive a racing vehicle without these safety features.

In the Ferrari F355 there's a switch near the gearbox that permit to switch the ABS on and off.

Of course, driving a racing car at 220mph w/o ABS and TRAC is dangerous, but I'm not doing a race with my Windstar.

How much time and money have you already wasted...

So far, about 1 hour and $49.95 for a new sensor that I broke, myself, out of ignorance.

FWIW, it's listed on craigslist and the ABS problem IS advertised. There's no light on the dash anymore because I replaced that sensor.

Hell, I've already had two people call about it.

Believe me, if I knew exactly what the problem was and I had sufficient time to repair it, I'd do it.