problem starting my car

ok so about a week ago i bought a 93 saturn sl 5 speed and it was running great until a few days ago.

-i would start my car, the rpms would go high then the engine would die.
-i would start my car and rev it and keep revving it above half an rpm and it would work, then when i stop the engine would die.

i thought the ects was the problem so i replaced it and it still does the same thing. this is getting really frustrating. the problem is that the car won't go into idle.

i dont know much about cars so i need your help.

any vacuum leaks? Intake gasket maybe?

i dont see any leaks.

is check eng light on ? if so post codes. If you dont have code reader most auto parts stores will read for free.

so me and my dad found out what the problem is, but we dont know what the part is called.

we found out that when we disconnected the part that says connector, the engine stayed on but it was rough.

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu359/jordanramelb/car/DSC00069.jpg

here's what it looks like when the connector is on.
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu359/jordanramelb/car/DSC00072.jpg

heres some other views
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu359/jordanramelb/car/DSC00070.jpg
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu359/jordanramelb/car/DSC00071.jpg

heres where it is located
http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu359/jordanramelb/car/SUNP0002_5_1.jpg

ok so i found out that the part is the TPS and i replaced it. After that, the engine started and i as able to drive it down the road for 10 minutes, then the engine died and the car was doing the same thing as last time. dying after stating it up.

Does the brake pedal feel harder to push right before it dies?

How about unplugging the EGR valve and seeing if that helps?

Your car has two ECTS' Did you replace the one with the two wire connector?

Your car has two ECTS' Did you replace the one with the two wire connector?

yeah. there was one next to it with 1 wire and i replaced the one with 2 wires.

I'm thinking that it has something to do with the idle air control valve but Im not sure.

Does the brake pedal feel harder to push right before it dies?

How about unplugging the EGR valve and seeing if that helps?

the brakes was hard to push before all this happened and still is but i thought it just needed to be adjusted.

I think we either have a vacuum issue or possibly an EGR issue. The hard brake pedal can be caused by either. Or maybe the booster is leaking vacuum which is causing both the hard brake pedal and the lack of idle!

Unplugging the egr will keep vacuum from being applied and if it is closed it should stay closed. If you idle returns than we may be heading in the right direction. You can also tap the top of the EGR with the handle of a screwdriver a couple times to close it if it is stuck open. Sometimes that works and sometimes it doesn't.

Lastley if your going to throw parts at it you might as well bring it in to a shop you have experience with to get it dignosed. This is always cheeper in the long run. You already have two strikes with the TPS and CTS so your behind around $50. A diag will run about $100 +or- depending on where you are.

I like to think on the positive side. You have now replaced a few items that had long since paid for themselves. Now they arent likely to give you any trouble for at least ten more years.

That depends. If they are low quality aftermarket parts they can give you more problems than if you would have left the original parts alone! Of all the saturns I have owned, repaired, diagnose I can't think of any that have needed a TP Sensor. I'm not saying it couldn't go bad but the likely hood is pretty slim IMO.

Sounds like a intake leak to me, spray brake cleans on the top side of the intake while the car is running and see if the idle changes.

That depends. If they are low quality aftermarket parts they can give you more problems than if you would have left the original parts alone! Of all the saturns I have owned, repaired, diagnose I can't think of any that have needed a TP Sensor. I'm not saying it couldn't go bad but the likely hood is pretty slim IMO.

I actually bought my TPS and ECTS at autozone.
I have a question, what would happen if i just disconnected the TPS and left it disconnected? When i disconnected the TPS, the engine would stay idle and when I connected it, the engine idled for about 10 min, then it would go back to doing the same thing as last time (first post of this thread).

I would think that what is happening is the vehicle goes into open loop when it sees an input failure. You unplug the TPS and the computer goes into open loop. Essential running on preprogrammed strategies and not using any sensor input (exept those absolutely vital to keeping the engine running). Once you plug in the TPS the computer sees the input and goes back into closed loop. Closed loop strategy uses inputs from various sensors to determine fuel and spark.

Does that sound right to anybody else?

I'm still thinking along the lines of a vacuum leak (leaking intakes are pretty common on these) but Somthing else occured to me. Wouldn't a bad MAP sensor cause a start and stall also? If you unplug the MAP what happens? The same thing as unplugging the TPS?

I would think that what is happening is the vehicle goes into open loop when it sees an input failure. You unplug the TPS and the computer goes into open loop. Essential running on preprogrammed strategies and not using any sensor input (exept those absolutely vital to keeping the engine running). Once you plug in the TPS the computer sees the input and goes back into closed loop. Closed loop strategy uses inputs from various sensors to determine fuel and spark.

Does that sound right to anybody else?

I'm still thinking along the lines of a vacuum leak (leaking intakes are pretty common on these) but Somthing else occured to me. Wouldn't a bad MAP sensor cause a start and stall also? If you unplug the MAP what happens? The same thing as unplugging the TPS?
I agree with you, if you unplug it how is the comp supposed to know driver input. I would also being looking for vacuum leak, or intake. Could also be a skewed iac motor.

I thought about the iac as well but it doesn't make sense that it idles high intially and then stalls. I suppose its not impossible!

I thought about the iac as well but it doesn't make sense that it idles high intially and then stalls. I suppose its not impossible!If the intake is leaking, it would have to be a pretty big leak for it totally stall out.

Good Point!

Have you cleaned your throttle body including the IAC?

i got my car fixed.
there was fuel in the vacuum lines.

Why was there fuel in the vacuum lines? What vacuum lines where there fuel in? What was fixed in order to stop getting fuel in the vacuum lines?

Never heard of that before, if there was liquid in the vacuum lines you think that it would just get sucked into the intake ???