Engine compartment steamcleaning

Ok, I am done with the main things I was going to do with this thing just to get it moving. I've heard and just recently experienced a reverse-slam "pleasure" on another auto Saturn and so this one is no different i.e I've got the same problem - it waits about 2 seconds before going (no slamming) into reverse. I almost hit the neighbors truck because i did not expect such a long delay.
Anyway, I guess I'll have to remove the valve body (will try the magic "flushing" procedure first) from the tranny and try to fix it. But first (and I know it's a personal problem) I need to clean the engine compartment somehow. I've "burnt" myself a couple of other times cleaning the engine at a self-serve car washes. This one does look like you really need to be aware of all the things that can go wrong.
Any pointers, suggestions ?
Thanks!

I suggest just good old hand cleaning. Anything else may cause issues with the electrical connections. You cant really just take a pressure washer to these cars now.

I was afraid of that... How do i clean the transmission than to prepare for taking down the valve body? Can I use a break cleaner on some spots?

I was afraid of that... How do i clean the transmission than to prepare for taking down the valve body? Can I use a break cleaner on some spots?

I use this Engine Degreaser spray. Works pretty good i think.

Also the valve body is on top of the tranny, not the bottom.

Yea i noticed from the posts that valve body is on top (it just felt weird to say I am taking it up :grinno:) but that's why I wanted to clean up around it so all the crud does not fall inside the tranny. Although I doubt it can do much more damage. This people must of not changed the ATF ever (or these trannys are real junk) because fluid is both dark and burnt.
btw, do you wash off the degreaser with anything? i think it says on the container that you should not leave it on especially plastic and rubber parts, i'll check. If my local wash would of had compressed air I'd of sprayed it with degreaser let it sit a bit and then hosed it off and blow the electrical stuff with air.
I've always washed my engines the only problems i got was a Volvo 850 that spar plug wells trapped the moisture and caused havoc and one of my friend's Crown Vic had to have TPS replaced and again moisture by spark plugs

I just wipe it away with a paper towel.

cool, thanks,
will try and update how it goes. For now I replaced the ATF with the fresh one and a can of SeaFoam for transmissions.

Ive washed many motors and had NO problems, in fact I just washed my 97 SL1 the other day. I suggest IF worried to use sandwich bags to cover disty and possiable remove battery, and shy from sensors. But I honestly sprayed EVERYTHING down with local wash hose and was right up close to do it well, no problems. Good luck, I used Engine Brite by the way, cheap, stinky, toxic but does its job,IMO.

You knew I was going to do it rite? :naughty: I washed the engine using the "Engine Brite" but I went to the car wash with a can of compressed air (the one you use for electronics) and a couple of rags. I covered the distributor with a plastic bag and sprayed the engine compartment and under it liberally with the cleaner, let it sit for 10 minutes and washed it off. Then i pushed the car out of the bay, pulled plug wires out, found plug wells with some water in them, blew the water out with compressed air and wiped wells with the rag, dried the wires and reinstalled them in. I was a little concerned with compressed air been too cold out off the can (not to crack the porcelain on the plugs) , so it's probably better to do it when the engine a little cooled off. Engine started rite away. Engine is "almost" clean - high standards :loser: but it will do. Verdict - it's doable just have to be careful.

I always wash engines at the car wash, usually once a year.
I don't cover anything but one thing I do is to not spray the exhaust manifold directly. I spray around it and let the indirect spray cool it down slowly so as to not thermo-shock it and have it crack.
Once the manifold is below the boiling point I hit it directly.