'58 Ferrari Testa Rossa #22 Hiro/MFH

I made some more progress on the Testa Rossa yesterday. Most of the brass fabrication is finished now. All I need to do is make the seats, paint everything, and put it together all over again.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt072.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt069.jpg
I also put the wheels together and leveled the body out for final primering. Most of the cutting and bending is done so things should start progressing a bit faster now.

Very, very nice and impressive work :thumbsup:
The doors look great!

(I really must learn to solder one day..... :) )

Magnificent job Mike! It looks splendid. I like to recommend neodymium magnets for the doors and trunk lids. Very small and very powerful. You have

rectangles

http://www.supermagnete.nl/photos/large/0912.jpg


spheres

http://www.supermagnete.nl/photos/large/0307.jpg

Discs

http://www.supermagnete.nl/photos/large/2662.jpg

And they are not bigger than a few millimeters. I used them for my F40 which doors did not close properly.

Everything looks great, and I really love the brass work. Im going to have to say you've now pulled far in to the lead. Like what happened to Tony I've hit a dead spot and trying to work through it.

Like what happened to Tony I've hit a dead spot and trying to work through it.

Well I am currently working on the engine and after finishing this I will continue with the brass work...by that time all my coppersmithing tools are in :)

I know all about dead spots guys. I have boxes full of "dead spots". Fact is, the only way I seem to be able to get a project done is to publish a WIP of it as I go!

I got my seats fab'd up yesterday. I wanted them to be larger and more 3-dimensional than the kit parts. Here's how I did it:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt081.jpg
I began by making 2-d templates using the outline of the kit parts as a guide. Notice how much bigger the new seat backs are.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt083.jpg
Next I traced the templates onto some grid lines based on the new width of the seat bottoms. After I replaced the trusses I had too much room and needed to widen them as well. The vertical piping has to be the width of the seat bottoms or it looks wrong. Next I protected the plan with cellophane tape and started molding. The parts were simply peeled off the plan after curing.

http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt077.jpg
Next the backs of the seats were carved slightly so they would fit in place. Milliput is great stuff. The Brit's tried to keep it a secret but now the word is out...:p

Milliput White is a fantastic product indeed.
Being able to use water to work it with and to get a smooth surface AND keep hands clean at the same time is fantastic.
One thing though, I'm not 100% on what the shrinkage on it is like so I've been sparing with it when I use it to correct body shapes.

Milliput is great stuff an you know how to handle it! Great result! Are you going to paint the MP or is it covered with fabric/leather?

Milliput White is a fantastic product indeed.
Being able to use water to work it with and to get a smooth surface AND keep hands clean at the same time is fantastic.
One thing though, I'm not 100% on what the shrinkage on it is like so I've been sparing with it when I use it to correct body shapes.

I haven't tried working it with the aid of water yet. I guess I should have read the instructions:uhoh:. It's fairly sticky up to about 30 minutes after mixing. I used it as bondo on the body and I don't believe it shrinks at all. Earlier pictures reveal areas where I used it. It sands at about the same rate as the resin. I refuse to use Squadron putty on a model ever again. That garbage slowly shrinks for weeks!

Milliput is great stuff an you know how to handle it! Great result! Are you going to paint the MP or is it covered with fabric/leather?

Ton, I hadn't thought about leather. That might look cool in 1/12? I'm just going to paint them flat red and apply thin white insulated wire in the grooves. (Update your thread already!)

Milliput is great stuff. The Brit's tried to keep it a secret but now the word is out...:p

I had to inwardly chuckle at that. I started using Milliput many many years ago for figure sculpting and modifications and, I must say, it seemed pretty good stuff....until I came across the US products of Magic Sculpt and Apoxie Sculpt. I won't use Milliput now.
The US products have a MUCH better shelf life, they are finer in texture, they carve better and don't flake like Milliput. They don't 'sweat' under heat like Milliput does. They mix easier. They have all the good qualities of Milliput, and none of the bad ones. They're cheaper too!
The Americans kept them a secret for a while but the secret got out a few years back...:tongue:

I had to inwardly chuckle at that. I started using Milliput many many years ago for figure sculpting and modifications and, I must say, it seemed pretty good stuff....until I came across the US products of Magic Sculpt and Apoxie Sculpt. I won't use Milliput now.
The US products have a MUCH better shelf life, they are finer in texture, they carve better and don't flake like Milliput. They don't 'sweat' under heat like Milliput does. They mix easier. They have all the good qualities of Milliput, and none of the bad ones. They're cheaper too!
The Americans kept them a secret for a while but the secret got out a few years back...:tongue:

Hmmm, now that you mention it I have noticed one stick in each of my boxes is beginning to turn a sickly brown color. I also noticed you have to be careful not to carve too aggressively on the white stuff or it will flake. Thanks for the info Cheesey. I'm a total beginner at this sculpting thing.

You're welcome, CrateCruncher. It was remiss of me to omit mention of your model in my previous post - had I not been so enthralled with your building of the Testa Rossa I would have not seen the comments about Milliput! Thank you for inspiring me with your Ferrari.

I had to inwardly chuckle at that. I started using Milliput many many years ago for figure sculpting and modifications and, I must say, it seemed pretty good stuff....until I came across the US products of Magic Sculpt and Apoxie Sculpt. I won't use Milliput now.
The US products have a MUCH better shelf life, they are finer in texture, they carve better and don't flake like Milliput. They don't 'sweat' under heat like Milliput does. They mix easier. They have all the good qualities of Milliput, and none of the bad ones. They're cheaper too!
The Americans kept them a secret for a while but the secret got out a few years back...:tongue:

Nice job on the seats and model so far.

I tried a few types of modeling clay, but not the one you mentioned. With Milliput the silver seems to work best for me as it does not peel as bad. I have done many masters using this stuff and styrene. Mixing is a pain plus the sit time is very short.

Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 2010

Under construction and online in a few months www.ferrariexpochicago.com (http://www.ferrariexpochicago.com)

Ton, I hadn't thought about leather. That might look cool in 1/12? I'm just going to paint them flat red and apply thin white insulated wire in the grooves. (Update your thread already!)The Cabretta leather I use (see my PM) is less than half a mm(metric) and is very smooth and easy to curve around shapes. It can be bought overhere

http://www.modelmotorcars.com/large_pic_lthr.asp?ID=17

You also have adhesive leather look cloth from Hiro

https://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/images/mfhp945.jpg

Very thin piping can be obtained from MSM Creation

http://www.msmcreation.com/images/msma005.jpg

I think I will update my thread on the moment the engine is ready :p

The before mentioned leather product works great - its adhesiveness is alright. I used it on my 250 TR.

The challenge is to find a way to cut around the bends of the seats in way that these won´t be too obvious. Otherwise the leather will stand out and show some edges that are not realistic at all.

Oh...and a sharp knife is recommended as well.


Robert

Hi guys - for what it's worth, my subjective opinion is that 0,48mm diam is much too thick for piping on seats. That scales up to 0,5 inch as a reference point

Hi guys - for what it's worth, my subjective opinion is that 0,48mm diam is much too thick for piping on seats. That scales up to 0,5 inch as a reference point

True, not the best choice...but do you have an decent alternative :wink:

Klutz, I was planning to use .25 mm ignition wire from Detail Master (full scale would be the correct 6mm) but holding it up to the seat it looks tiny. Hence the Radio Shack stuff which is .48mm (and it's $3.00 for 30 meters not $8.00 for 2!).

FWIW, I now refuse to acknowledge any existence of our medievel American system of units. All my posts are now in metric - the system designed for modern civilizations. And yes, it's only a matter of time before the other 300 million people here do it my way....:rofl::rofl::rofl:

And I hope it's easier for you also, cause I sure can't post in Polish, Dutch or Flemish!

And I hope it's easier for you also, cause I sure can't post in Polish, Dutch or Flemish!

Thanks Mike..much appreciated!:licka:

True, not the best choice...but do you have an decent alternative :wink:
It's all very much a question of personal preferecne but 0,3-0,35mm would be my diameter of choice. I would tend to agree with Crate Cruncher above that 0,25mm would "look" too small (even if it is more correct from a scale point of view) in the same way that I feel 0,48mm "looks" too large.

As for alternatives, I used sprue on this 250TR (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=916660) and used my calliper gauge to select sections with the right thickness. I used regular wrapping wire on the rear cover of a Lotus Super 7.

Out of curiosity, I just measured the piping on the RMoM resin seats for the Ferrari 250 California (which I have always thought had very nice molded-in detail) and they are also around 0,3mm.

In this case, subjectivity rules, I guess and there is no real "right or wrong" - the most important thing is that Crate Cruncher is happy with the result and goes with his instincts :thumbsup:

Re: piping on the seats, there is a credible alternative to wire & sprue that you may like to consider - epoxy putty. You've said how much you like Milliput, so why not stretch yourself and explore its capabilities?

Epoxy putties can be easily rolled out to incredibly fine diameters (certainly thinner than is required for 1/24 seat piping) and will offer a couple of advantages over sprue or wire. Firstly, it will be a lot more flexible, and will conform to contours better. Secondly, once it's applied and hardened it can be 'tweaked' with abrasive paper or steel wool to make it a wee bit thinner if required.

I recommend you try it when the ambient temperature is high, because putties get stiffer and less easy to manipulate as the temparature drops. Mix the putty as usual and then take a tiny piece of it and roll it back and forth under your fingertip on a hard smooth surface - a workbench or cutting mat for example. Using the lightest of pressure keep rolling, keep thinning the putty. If he putty sticks to the surface use a VERY light covering of talcum powder to prevent it. Seriously, you'll be amazed how thin you can make the resulting strand. You may not be able to make very long, consistenly thin strands but you should comfortably be able to make them long enough to replicate lengths of piping on your Testa Rossa seats.
There are a couple of options for applying the strands to your seats. You could either take the freshly rolled strand and lay it over the seat, guiding it into position and pressing it down with the tip of a damp (with water) fine paint brush - the fresh putty (aided by the dampness) will stick itself to the seat. Or you could roll the putty and wait a while until it starts to harden, starts to get 'rubbery'. Then stick it to the seat with either a tiny amount of 2-part epoxy glue or a paste made from Millput vigourously mixed with water.

Putty piping isn't going to be particularly robust (so I wouldn't recommend it, for instance, for a piece that's going to be handled repeatedly or put in a silicone rubber mould) but let's face it, once a seat is made, primed, painted and possibly varnished, it will be perfectly strong enough for our purposes.

Even if you choose to use another method for these seats, I urge you to at least play around with rolling your Milliput - it will probably give you great confidence in that stuff's properties.....even if I still prefer Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculpt :D

I don't want to hijack your thread but, if you'd like, I could roll some putty and then post a photo or two to show you what's possible. Just let me know.

Jon.

I like that Milliput idea!! I am definitely going to give that a try :thumbsup:

Guys, thanks for taking the time to offer up your ideas. I'm going to experiment with them and figure out what I'm capable of. I may have grown into the idea .48 mm was "about right" when in fact it's really out of scale. About .35 is where I'd like to be.

Just a quick update:
Lucybelle II is now in white (primer anyway). All suspension is epoxied in.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt087.jpg
Bottom right you can just see my brass anti-roll bar I sub'd for the huge kit part.


I finally got a nice flat red that I like for the heads. Detail work begins:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt085.jpg
Note the tiny deflecter on carb #1 formed from aluminum sheet - a Lucybelle exclusive. Those tiny little valve cover knobs are white metal castings. Don't sneeze!
More to come. Thanks for watching.

Looks very good...I am happy you did not forget the deflector :) I also thought it was Lucybelle specific...but after reading the TR book of Joel E Finn I now know that it is specific for all the early TR´s. And don´t forget the oil stick on the left side :)

I now have the engine assembled and will begin the plumbing/electrical work next.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt089.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt092.jpg
I used a high temperature red paint containing ceramic powder for the engine. It was cured in the oven after spraying for 30 minutes at 120C. I love the dead-flat orange red effect but my camera has a hard time capturing it. The Hiro TR engine is exceeding my expectations in nearly every way. The front engine casting was a bit rough but everything else is wonderfully detailed. (Might these castings be borrowed from the Climax GTO?) I would still give the R&MM engines a higher score because everything is included but this Hiro can be made nearly as nice with some scratch-work and it's already metal! Also, the Hiro intake trumpets are metal so I don't have to constantly worry about breaking them. Pardon my dust. More to come.

That´s a nice looking engine. It´s amazing how much effort you put into this one - even the paint needs to be special. Way to go!

Robert

Looks very very good Mike. The venturies are they Hiro or did you add them yourself?

Thanks guys. The header paint is a special paint but I already had it from a full scale project completed a while back and remembered how orangish and flat it looked after it was cured - like it had been baked in an engine compartment. It took some time figuring out a good primer for it but I'm happy with how it turned out. You don't often get to paint Ferrari engines red so I wanted to really get the look right. I also wanted to be several shades away from the seat color.

The venturi's were made from some .8mm O.D. brass tube I found in the scrapbox. Hiro included some SS tube but its hard to cut and I like the contrast of the brass. I'll use the SS for fuel line ferrules. No waste!

That is superb. I'm going to get a Fotki site in the future.

I've been busily working on the Testa Rossa and now feel like I'm in the home stretch. I can fit all the remaining parts into the small plastic organizer box included with the kit but there are still a number of things to do. Here's where I am:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt093.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt096.jpg
The two photo's were taken with and without flash. I find it amazing how much the color white changes under different light. The base coat is Racing White (TS-7). The seats were shot with Flat Red (XF-7) over grey primer for a darkening effect, then rubbed for a leather effect. Anyone that knows the Hiro TR can appreciate how much work has already gone into carving the windshield surround from a huge casting down to a thin stamped metal strip. I'll add .5mm rivets after the windshield is fitted. The wheels were assembled first (thanks Alex), then shot with Tamiya Metal Primer, Flat Aluminum (XF-16), then baked at 100C for 15 minutes for added durability. They turned out great!. Next I need to decal, clear, polish, blacken the body inside, and complete assembly of a million little things. I'm working toward a Saturday deadline so things are really starting to move now. More to follow...........Mike

Stunning job Mike! Wheel job is perfect! I wish I was that far :)

Here's the Reinaissance Nardi I built for my Porsche 356A and the onw for my Ferrari California Spyder. Renaissance makes a really really great Nardi Steering Wheel. I used one on my Hasegawa TR, and put an EJan horn button in it.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC_1315.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC_1329.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC_1615.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC_2558.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/gsl05_00193-1.jpg




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250, you seem nice but no one on this forum has seen a single photo of your work thus far. At some point you are going to have to show us what you've done or other builders won't take you seriously. Sorry, but pictures tell the stories. Some background would help too. Your age, how long you've been building, car interests, would also help. I'm 45 and have been a car and motorcycle nut since I was 8.

And thanks for the tip on the Nardi's from Rennaisance, Ididn't know they offered that. Checked their website just now. They look good. Got a PICTURE?!!!!!!

Very nice! Can't wait to see it finished now.
I also noticed something you probably can't change now - only cam covers were painted red, you also have a bit of the red paint on the front engine cover - it was silver. But probably too late now.

Stunning job Mike! Wheel job is perfect! I wish I was that far :)
Thanks Ton. That MG is quite a handful I'm sure. Big scale, high detail projects are a lot of work and take a long time. I don't think that gets mentioned enough. Posting frequent progress updates helps me maintain momentum.

Here's the Reinaissance Nardi I built for my Porsche 356A and the one for my Ferrari California Spyder.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y288/Porsnatic/DSC_1329.jpg



Wow! Thanks for the pic. That looks great. They split the center so you can bend some offset into it and even include a decal for the dark inlay strip. I'm ordering some of these!

Very nice! Can't wait to see it finished now.
I also noticed something you probably can't change now - only cam covers were painted red, you also have a bit of the red paint on the front engine cover - it was silver. But probably too late now.

Thanks. I'm glad you like the progress.

Regarding those forward timing chain covers, engines during this period were all different. Some were painted, some weren't. Most of these cars have been modified, wrecked and restored multiple times making research even more challenging. But rest assured that my bud Mark would never let me make a mistake like that. When I start a new project he often provides me with a wealth of valuable research references. (Thanks Mark!). I'm confident that #0732 had painted chain covers because it's original engine paint survives today(and it looks like poo too!).

Here's how the seats turned out.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt099.jpg
I finally decided .3mm looked best. I tried rolling Milliput and stretching sprue but couldn't get consistent size in the lengths I needed. I removed the insulation from the wire and then stretched it. You can see strands of before and after in the photo. (The stripped metal wire is beatiful and will make all kinds of great trim details on some future roadcar project).

Edit: I forgot to mention my thanks to Klutz for mentioning the piping diameter as a scale issue in the first place. Looking back on it now the change made the model look a LOT better.

Great job on the piping Mike, it looks very good!

I'm confident that #0273 had painted chain covers because it's original engine paint survives today

This book is dedicated to the #22 and it shows pictures of the chain covers painted red!

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/10860/DSC_0354.jpg

Right Ton. Mark loaned me the same book! Incidently, are you going to position your driving lights "as raced in '58" or as restored behind the radiator screen?

Edit: I forgot to mention my thanks to Klutz for mentioning the piping diameter as a scale issue in the first place. Looking back on it now the change made the model look a LOT better.
No problem :thumbsup: Sharing opinions and experiences is what this place is supposed to be about - we all benefit from that.

Right Ton. Mark loaned me the same book! Incidently, are you going to position your driving lights "as raced in '58" or as restored behind the radiator screen?

As restored behind the radiator screen. I will make it as much as possible as it is now in the collection of mr. Perfetti. BTW I left the chain covers alu colour because I like that combination beter with the red cam covers, but it is historically incorrect :grinno:
I managed to solder the hump today :licka::licka: so now I can replace the resin aft and make the tubular chassis, tank and spare wheel.

Under the heading "Disaster - Narrowly Averted!" comes this next update. I've been knee-deep in decals and everything was going well until I got to the #22 roundel on the rear deck. Because it overlaps the blue center stripe I worried that it might not be opaque enough. I looked at the customer build on the Hiro site and everything looked great. Disaster - I mean it looked TERRIBLE!! I quickly dug the paper backing from the trash and returned the roundel onto it. Whew! Now, how do I work around this? If I had known ahead of time I could have easily trimmed a crescent shape from the blue stripe where the roundel overlaps before it ever got near water. However, now that the stripe was set that wsn't an option. I recalled a McLaren WIP where someone had painted clear decal film before applying it to the model. If I could paint a crescent of decal paper to cover the stripe I might just get myself out of this hell hole.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt102.jpg
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt105.jpg
In short, it worked! I was able to fully recover from this but it has taught me to never blindly trust a kit-makers decals or the method they suggest in using them. From now on I plan to test all the light colors using any spare decals before decaling the model. I shouldn't defend Hiro but it could be argued they left the stripe without a cutout so the builder could locate the roundel centered (post-restoration) or angled/offset ('58 LeMans).

This could have been the worst nightmare ..................almost ready and than this!!!
Luckily you handled it with great expertise an d now everything is fine :)

MG solved this problem like this

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/10860/DSC_0357.jpg

strangely enough they did not do it for the front part.

Thanks. I'm glad you like the progress.

Regarding those forward timing chain covers, engines during this period were all different. Some were painted, some weren't. Most of these cars have been modified, wrecked and restored multiple times making research even more challenging. But rest assured that my bud Mark would never let me make a mistake like that. When I start a new project he often provides me with a wealth of valuable research references. (Thanks Mark!). I'm confident that #0273 had painted chain covers because it's original engine paint survives today(and it looks like poo too!).

I stand corrected. Just did a bit of research myself! :-)

Thanks for backing me up, Porschnatic. How is the Alfa coming out ?

I'm on the last lap of this race and it's going to be a squeaker of a finish. I love final assembly. It's that point where you get to bring all the little sub-assemblies out and attach them to the car. Here's where I am on the body:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt107.jpg
I couldn't get the photo-etch hood screen to fit well so I made a new one. The headligh liners are made from coke can aluminum. That drivers door interior paint looks a little rough! I was going to give it another pass but decided it looked kinda cool the way it is. Driving lights have tape added just like at the race. Notice one light has a strip missing. It must have peeled off pretty early because every photo of the car shows it missing. I hope to have the chassis and body screwed together tonight. That leaves windshield and exhausts for tomorrow and it's done!

you are welcome 250 Testa Rossa, which Alfa? The Tipo 33? If is that one, I stoped because I was rushing it in order to take it to the GSL and it wasn't being well and since it's an expensive kit I didn't want to ruin it. I finished another one, a Guilia. It's here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=947389

Also, I already finished a Tamiya Porsche Boxster that being beatifull. I will post some pictures soon. After that, will arrive a big project for me,a Revell Aston Martin DB4 with al the corrections. I have already lotsssss of pictures and goodies to start to play with. I had take my time geting the correct paint with the color Aston Martin UK sent me. That's the reason I had enter this Testarossa thread so much, to check the Derrington gwheel:naughty:
I will mess it if it wasn't for your thread, because, I would use the Renaissance one, which looks like a little bit, but it's totally incorrect. I will have to try to control myself on that one, because, in that Aston the center piece it's semi-gloss black and I will not enjoy the beautifull chrome look as in your:crying:

Keep an eye on it as I'm following yours, I've been tempted to build one...a great one indeed!





Thanks for backing me up, Porschnatic. How is the Alfa coming out ?

I love final assembly

That is the real moment! I can feel the thrill :)

The Tipo 33. I would love to see it when it's done.

OK, for that one I think will have to wait around 4-5 months more:p
But I'm preety sure you will love the Aston Martin...first pictures..next week!

The Tipo 33. I would love to see it when it's done.

Here's the last pic of the engine before frame fold:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt109.jpg
I got just about everything in there I wanted. The armor cable was twisted up by hand from some aluminum 32 gage. It took forever but I'm happy with the result. The front water lines are solder and heat shrink. I replaced the tie rods with brass though once the body goes on no one will see it.

250 Testa Rosa: If you'd like to chit-chat with other people about subjects unrelated to the thread there is a feature called PRIVATE MESSAGE. Please learn to use it. Some people check a WIP thread every time there is a new post and it is rude to waste members time like that.

Mike the engine and all its connections are a real gem! Weathering is well done too. Are considering to weather the disc brakes a little ?

Sorry if I bother you so much, I didn't know you will take this so personnal!

Here's the last pic of the engine before frame fold:
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt109.jpg
I got just about everything in there I wanted. The armor cable was twisted up by hand from some aluminum 32 gage. It took forever but I'm happy with the result. The front water lines are solder and heat shrink. I replaced the tie rods with brass though once the body goes on no one will see it.

250 Testa Rosa: If you'd like to chit-chat with other people about subjects unrelated to the thread there is a feature called PRIVATE MESSAGE. Please learn to use it. Some people check a WIP thread every time there is a new post and it is rude to waste members time like that.

Getting close. I still need to do the windshield and headlight covers and a few odds and ends.
http://i419.photobucket.com/albums/pp280/cratecruncher/Ferrari%20Testa%20Rossa/swbfrt116.jpg

Ton, I put a bit of wash on the drums initially but took it off. It just looked untidy. I generally don't do a lot of suspension detail prefering to focus on carbs and steering wheels. This car has such incredible seats I spent a lot of time on those too. Before I start I mentally assign a visibility score to every part of the project and alot my time in proportion.

This car has been a big challenge but I've loved every moment.

Wow ....she is a real beauty! Be careful with the windshield and the covers ! Love to see the final pictures!

Wow, this really is getting close!

My deadline was Saturday the 26th so I could show this car at our local IPMS show. Friday night about 11:00 I was exhausted and realized it wasn't going to happen. If I had just one more day I might have been able to pull it off. In any event, I'm kinda glad I have more time now so I can do my best. More to come....

This model is gonna look good when it's done. I can already see it completed. Good Job CrateCruncher. If you want a real head-turner, get a Hasegawa TR, both a correct RHD conversion and engine from Historic Racing Miniatures, MFH Borranis, and a steering wheel from Renaissance.

My deadline was Saturday the 26th so I could show this car at our local IPMS show. Friday night about 11:00 I was exhausted and realized it wasn't going to happen. If I had just one more day I might have been able to pull it off. In any event, I'm kinda glad I have more time now so I can do my best. More to come....

Next show is yours Mike :licka: Under the conditions you described you probably would have ruined it.

If you want a real head-turner, get a Hasegawa TR, both a correct RHD conversion and engine from Historic Racing Miniatures, MFH Borranis, and a steering wheel from Renaissance.IMO this is a real head turner, done with a great expertise and craftsmanship. But I assume the "real head turner" setup you mention is the one you cannot show us because you can´t upload pictures:sarcasm1: