2000 SE starts then dies immediately when cold

Okay - a new problem cropped up this weekend. It happened two days in a row when engine cold in the morning. Once was when my wife started the van and once when I did. I didn't even know she had an issue until I told her about it happening to me and she says "oh yeah, that happened to me Saturday morning too".

The engine cranks over fine and fires right up just like always - you release the key from start to on position and then immediately the engine dies. The RPM's dropped immediately from 1200 to 0 but all the instrument lights were lit just like you had the key in on position but not started.

It did this 4 times to my wife until it stayed running then worked fine the rest of Saturday. It did this to me 2 times Sunday morning and then worked fine the rest of the day.

My initial trouble spots to consider are:

1) Key switch problem, loses some kind of run or on signal when releasing the key from start to on.

2) Crank Pos. Sensor losing signal although I would suspect this more if it happened on a hot engine, not a cold one.

3) Relay problem, contacts dropping out on fuel or PCM relay feeds thus killing engine.

4) TRS - not sure this would kill the engine but others have had start / running issues with the TRS failing or out of position from reading other threads.

I appreciate any other ideas from the other board members. TIA.

I am thinking about taking it by Autozone and see if it retained a code for this engine shut off problem. What's the chance of having a code stored that might be a good clue? The CEL did not come on either time.

I started the car cold Monday morning before I headed out to work just to see what it did since my wife was going to be running errands later in the day. It started just fine and I have not yet did anything to it. :shakehead

I think the problem is in or around the ignition switch, and I think the 12V feed to the coil of the PCM Power Relay, which should be hot in Start or Run, is only hot in Start at those times when the engine quits - i.e. it's no longer hot in Run. That should be easy to check at fuse # 9, rated at 10amps, located in the passenger compartment fuse panel - well, it will be easy to check if the fuse has the little access holes in the plastic body which serve as test points through which one can probe for voltage - some fuses have them and some don't. If the fuse has no access holes then look at the other fuses to see if you have another 10 amp fuse which does, and swap them.

The fuse itself will be good (otherwise the engine wouldn't start) but when the engine starts then quits as the key is released, leave the key where it is - in the 'Run' position - and check for voltage at fuse 9 using either a multimeter or a 12V test lamp, and I reckon there's a high chance you'll find the voltage is missing. One probe to ground, and probe through the little access holes in the fuse with the other. If you don't have a fuse with test points then just unplug it and probe into one leg of the now-empty fuse socket, then the other - one of them should have 12V.

If you do find the 12V is missing then it might simply be worn contacts, in which case a new switch would be required, or it might be a linking bar - an actuator - between lock cylinder and switch which is out of alignment - I don't know how the Windstar ignition switch is physically arranged.

Next time it happens though, check for 12V at fuse 9 and I'd be very surprised if it isn't missing.

Understood, thanks Selectron. I will rig up my DVM to monitor this fuse #9 and watch the voltage under both "normal" and "failed" conditions providing the intermittent problem crops back up.

Had the codes read to see if there was a stored DTC and there was not. That would eliminate the crank pos. sensor I believe and maybe the TRS. I think the leading culprit is the key switch but the 'ol van has started fine the last two days. :shakehead

Will look at the relays and wiring some this weekend and post back my findings.

I think you're making this *waaay* too complicated. The symptoms you're seeing are classic for a sticky IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Very easy to fix:

http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar02.html

I periodically clean my IAC (it only takes a couple minutes), just to make sure it won't cause problems.

Thanks Phil-I, that indeed matches right to my symptom and is an easy procedure. I cleaned the IAC last August on a tip from an AF member while I did the Leckemby detailed 0171/0174 isolator bolt TSB install. I cleaned it again this evening and it didn't look too bad. Had some blackish powder residue all over the engine side chamber. The IAC motorized side of the IAC was really clean. Engine started and ran fine afterward, hope that it is the cure...

Funny that I've never seen a link to the Leckemby IAC cleaning before, I read AF almost every night and only see the links to the isolator bolt TSB. IAC must be reasonably dependable.

This is a common IAC sympton. IAC are fairly cheap, and easy to replace.
Ford has had a lot of IAC problems. This is a classic sign of a bad IAC. you could clean it but the prob. could return. Repalce with new is your best chance.