Has anyone used this tool?

Found this tool elsewhere on the intertubes while searching for replacing tie rod ends:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96558

Has anyone used it on our vehicles? Mine's a 2003 base model.

It's not sound practical. Cause it doesn't have lever at the end of the tool. It could slip on your hand.

I've not used it, but it looks similar to this tool:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_INNER-TIE-ROD-REMOVAL-ST-Ampro_9019421-P_N3492_T%7CGRP2083____

The access to the inner tie rod is tight when using an open end wrench. I've done it on my 96 Windstar, but I've never been totally comfortable with the torque I can get with it. Make sure you secure the inner tie rod according to the installation instructions.

Also, it might be possible to get a loaner tool for this job, rather than purchasing one. The Autozone stores are one chain that offers this service.

I've used both. One tool slips over the whole tie rod if the nut which attaches to the rack has a fully machined profile. Some inner tie rods have a rounded, ball like area where the rod extends from and a machined nut which attaches to the rack. The ball/nut style inner tie rod will not allow the first tool to slip on as the ball part is larger than the machined, nut area. If this is the type of inner tie rod you have than the crows foot style tool is required. On my 2000 I had the ball/nut style as an OEM part. The new inner tie rod was the fully machined nut style. Soo, both tools have a place and while the crows foot one will work on either inner tie rod, the slip on style tool won't.

Piper

It's not sound practical. Cause it doesn't have lever at the end of the tool. It could slip on your hand.

Check out the end of the tool in use on this pic of a Subaru Outback:
http://ozscience.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/67/size/big/cat/http://ozscience.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/65http://ozscience.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/65
(http://ozscience.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/67)- this doesn't seem to want to let me display the picture

Also, it might be possible to get a loaner tool for this job, rather than purchasing one. The Autozone stores are one chain that offers this service.

I've used both. One tool slips over the whole tie rod if the nut which attaches to the rack has a fully machined profile. Some inner tie rods have a rounded, ball like area where the rod extends from and a machined nut which attaches to the rack. The ball/nut style inner tie rod will not allow the first tool to slip on as the ball part is larger than the machined, nut area. If this is the type of inner tie rod you have than the crows foot style tool is required. On my 2000 I had the ball/nut style as an OEM part. The new inner tie rod was the fully machined nut style. Soo, both tools have a place and while the crows foot one will work on either inner tie rod, the slip on style tool won't.

I'm not sure which style of inner is on this van (2003)- probably like Piper's ball/nut setup being of the same style van. I'd hate to get it all apart and then realize I have the wrong tool! I've read a lot that the 'crow's foot' style tool doesn't always work. Will it work with the ball/nut style end if that's what I have? I was looking at the Harbor Freight tool as a catch-all.

I think as long as the actual wrench part is separate from the tube part you'll be ok. I do think the advance auto part looks better than the HF one though. You could call a local Ford dealer and ask to see the oem part on you van or cut one of the metal ties on the rubber bellows and see what part you have. That's what I'd probably do before undoing a bunch of components.

As an aside, do a search on my username. I replaced both inner and outer tie rods among other suspension components, following the FSM to the letter. I had an inner tie rod become detached and could have had a catastrophe. There is a pin which must be inserted to lock the inner tie rod to the rack. Make sure you use it as the FSM doesn't mention it! I'd also use Red loctite to make doubly sure.

As an aside, do a search on my username. I replaced both inner and outer tie rods among other suspension components, following the FSM to the letter. I had an inner tie rod become detached and could have had a catastrophe. There is a pin which must be inserted to lock the inner tie rod to the rack. Make sure you use it as the FSM doesn't mention it! I'd also use Red loctite to make doubly sure.

Questions:
1- How did you know the inner became detached? Did it start to steer funny?

2- Did you use Loctite on the jam nut for the outer?

FYI, the aftermarket tie rod ends come both ways.

Well 1 tire was turning left and the other was pointing straight! Had it happened at
100 km/hr I'd likely be dead. Fortunately it was in a parking lot at 2km/hr.

I didn't use nor would I suggest loctite on the jam nut.

P

Well 1 tire was turning left and the other was pointing straight! Had it happened at
100 km/hr I'd likely be dead. Fortunately it was in a parking lot at 2km/hr.

So how does one know to change the inners BEFORE something catastrophic like this happens? Or should you just change them anyway at a certain mileage because there's no telling?

well here's where I do spend my $$ at a trusted suspension/alignment shop. I go to the mechanic I trust and tell her (yes her) that I'd like a suspension evaluation on my van. I tend to do this yearly. She looks it all over and gives me a "here's what needs to be done" check up. I do the work and return to the shop where she does the final alignment.

When I replaced my inner tie rods I needed to do both outers along with the struts. I decided as everything was going to be apart to replace the sway bar bushings, end links, struts (with Quickstruts) inner/outer tie rods, lower control arms, also did new rotors and pads. So, front end rebuild basically. The components cost me ~$1200. My mech did the check and alignment for $120 total. So, for ~$3500 worth of work at a shop I got it all done and checked for $1320.

To directly answer your question about health of inner or outer tie rods, essentially you need to push and pull on them to see how much "play" there is. Ideally there is no play. I tend to look at this type of repair from a milage use, convenience of when I plan to do the job over actual wear. While when I did my repair the only thing that needed doing asap was the inner drivers tie rod and both struts, I chose to do the whole job. I'd rather do that than have to have it done on an emergency type basis.

P

In my case the concern is not failure of the ball/socket of the tie rod, but loosening of the tie rod from the steering rack. The inner tie rod came off the rack when I took it in for an alignment.

I believe this is similar to what occured in northern piper's experience.

as you can imagine I did a ton of research after this happened and tried to warn everybody and their dog about how to install the inner tie rod right. I got a lot of people telling me to just buy a reman'd rack which comes with the inner tie rods already installed which I think is a lame answer. The reman'd ones from Ford or aftermarket are built differently. The OEM one on my van had the inners loctited and torqued, no locking pin. Replacement inner tie rods come with a locking pin (which after torquing the rod onto the rack gets driven into the threads for "locking" just to be perfectly clear here). I took the step of cleaning the rack end with solvent to remove any oil etc, applied red loctite, torqued the inner tie rod to spec, then drove the locking pin in. Over-kill? yes "me" kill ('cause the tie rod comes off the rack) no.

well here's where I do spend my $$ at a trusted suspension/alignment shop. I go to the mechanic I trust and tell her (yes her) that I'd like a suspension evaluation on my van. I tend to do this yearly. She looks it all over and gives me a "here's what needs to be done" check up. I do the work and return to the shop where she does the final alignment.
So, for ~$3500 worth of work at a shop I got it all done and checked for $1320.

Well, yes, that's the plan. I just wanted to know what I'm looking for when I'M in there. I think I have a trusted local shop, but I never live in one place long enough to establish a relationship with a good shop. I'm in the situation where I collect as much information as possible, so I'm as well informed as I can possibly be. Then, when I find a local shop that comes recommended, I can, 1- hopefully tell if they're BS-ing me or not, and 2- still be able to do the work and have them make professional adjustments/checks.

To directly answer your question about health of inner or outer tie rods, essentially you need to push and pull on them to see how much "play" there is. Ideally there is no play.

Excellent information! Thanks Piper!

The Ford Windstar Service Manual describes a test where the tie rod is disconnected from the knuckle (possibly without the outter tie rod end), and is set to a position (i.e positioned straight out from the steering rack) and a force is applied until it moves. The required force must exceed the specified amount to pass. If it is less, then the tie rod must be replaced. Needless to say, if the tie rod falls down until it is resting on something (i.e. will not stay in a fixed position), it needs to be replaced.

The Ford Windstar Service Manual describes a test where the tie rod is disconnected from the knuckle (possibly without the outter tie rod end), and is set to a position (i.e positioned straight out from the steering rack) and a force is applied until it moves. The required force must exceed the specified amount to pass. If it is less, then the tie rod must be replaced. Needless to say, if the tie rod falls down until it is resting on something (i.e. will not stay in a fixed position), it needs to be replaced.

I'll have to take a look at that. That FSM is quite handy, no?