1995 wont crank

i have a 1995 ford windstar just replaced the transmisson and thought we got everything hooked back up but now when trying to crank it wont engage the fuel pump or starter.

For the fuel pump, I wonder if you jolted the van enough to trip the inertia fuel shutoff switch, so I'd check that first. If it hasn't tripped then I'd check to see if 12V is reaching that switch during the first few seconds after the ignition is switched to the Run position. If 12V isn't reaching the switch then the problem is prior to that point, but if 12V is both reaching and leaving the switch then the problem is either in the wiring to the pump, the pump itself, or the final ground connection.

You'll find a wiring diagram in the Repair Info section at www.autozone.com or this link (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repaiguideOverlay.jsp?src=http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/0a/e2/ec/large/0900c152800ae2ec.&imageType=gif&imageName=Fig.%206:%201995-98%20Chassis%20Schematics) might take you straight to the diagram.

This is how the circuit works: when the ignition is switched to the Run position, the PCM power relay feeds 12V to the high end of the fuel pump relay coil. At the same instant, the PCM will ground the low end of the fuel pump relay coil for a few seconds, to build fuel pressure. Current then flows via fuse 'N', through the switched contacts of the fuel pump relay, then through the inertia switch, then through the pump itself, and finally to ground. After a few seconds, when fuel pressure has built up, the PCM switches the fuel pump relay off, and the pump will cease to run. If you need to trace voltage through the circuit then be aware that the fuel pump relay is contained within the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM) where it is soldered to a printed circuit board, so it is not readily accessible. Aside from that complicating factor, fault-finding should be just a matter of tracing 12V through the circuit, and you'll need an assistant to turn the key while you check voltages, because of course voltage is only present for a few seconds after the ignition is switched on. You'll find the pin-out diagram for the CCRM on this page (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=900206&page=4). If you unplugged the CCRM, you did remember to plug it back in, eh?

The starter wiring diagram is on the same page as the fuel pump diagram. You will have disturbed the transmission range sensor/switch, so I'd guess that's where the problem is likely to be - either not plugged in, or misaligned, and thus failing to complete the starter circuit when in Park or Neutral. At the starter motor solenoid, you'll find three terminals - two large, and one smaller, the smaller one having a correspondingly thinner wire. 12V should reach that small terminal when the ignition is switched to the Start position, and in your case you'll almost certainly find the 12V is missing, in which case I'd first investigate the transmission range sensor/switch.