no 2nd gear or od

I have a 1998 Windstar with a rebuilt trans with around 30k miles on it. It shifts fine until it gets hot then it doesnt want to shift into 2nd gear, it will go from 1st to 3rd and then the od light starts blinking and it wont go into od after that eitherhttp://www.ford-forums.com/images/smilies/set5/confused5.gif. I am going to change fluid and filter but would like to know what would cause this problem so I can fix it while the fluid is out if it is an internal problem. The warranty is up on trans so am trying to fix myself. Thanks in advance for your help.

The first thing to do is to read the OBDII codes.
If you don't have a code reader, many auto part stores will read them for you for free.
Make SURE to get the actual numeric code.
Recently, my Vehicle Speed Sensor would fail when warm, causing the transmission to shift strangely.
A read of the codes came up with the sensor.
The vehicle speed sensor is a pain to change, due to its location, middle of the back side of the transmission, above a hot catalytic converter.
You have to do it by feel, as you cannot see what you are doing.

A common failure is the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) aka Neutral Safety Switch.
This is what the cable from the shift select lever connects to.
It is mounted on top of the transmission.

If you put the gear select in "2", you should start out in 2nd gear.

In short, get the code(s) read.
Verify the TRS, then think of more complicated and expensive things.

I have a code reader but it will not read trans codes, and the shop that did the rebuild wants $80 just to run the diagnostics on it which seems like to much if the part that needs replaced is cheaper than that. After it is hot it looses second gear completely and the od light starts blinking which turns the od off. If i manually downshift it to 2nd while I am slowing down sometimes it will go into 2nd and then start out in 2nd but I have to do it before it downshifts into 1st after that moving the shifter into 2nd does nothing. I want to fix it myself since the shop charges too much. How do I test the trs?

Did you try to read the codes? Some transmission codes will show up on a OBDII reader....and you might get lucky.
My speed sensor showed up.

There is also a test that I have read about, but not done.
This is ONLY for a TEMPORARY check......
With the motor at idle, gear select in PARK, unplug the electrical connection to the Transmission Range Sensor.
You have to have the motor running, as it will not start with this connector unplugged (Neutral Safety part of the switch).

Then take it for a short drive.....shifts will be abrupt, but you should have your gears.....IF the TRS is causing the problem.
This may also cause the O/D light to flash.....as it might not like the TRS being unplugged.
For this reason, try reading what code(s) you can with your code reader FIRST.

I plugged my scanner in and drove it until the od started blinking and it wouldnt read the codes for the trans and the mil isnt on. If I shut the van off and restart it the light doesnt blink until it start shifting wrong again. As long as it is cold it is fine it shifts nice and smooth through all the gears like it should but as soon as it gets hot it loses 2nd. Im hoping it isnt needing rebuilt again.

Hello-

I think you should bite the bullet and pay the $80.00 to get the codes read - as Wiswind suggested
The TRS runs about $40.00 - the VSS (depending on model) can run between $40.00 - $60.00 - and your shift solenoids about $30.00 each. In addition to your time replacing these parts - the $80.00 may be well spent.

I think the goods news here (if there is any) is that given the fact the transmission shifts fine until it gets hot may point away from an internal issue- if I were to guess - it sounds like it may be the intermediate shift servo located on the outside of the transmission case.

Good Luck
Glenn

I had the codes read before and it said the 2nd gear ratio was incorrect, but not sure what the number of the code was. Dont all these transmissions have the same gear ratios?

That would indicate that the PCM has determined that the transmission is in the wrong gear ratio as compared to what it has told the transmission to be in.
In other words.......it has told the transmission to be in 2nd gear.....and it is not.

However......I would advise that a past code may not apply to the current situation.
You will need the code readings for what is happening now, as it could be a different cause.

Incorrect gear ratio for 2nd gear would likely be P0732

I know that it is frustrating not to have a "smoking gun", but there are a LOT of possibilities for the problem.
Not wanting to shift into 2nd gear is consistant with the P0732 code, the question is why?
The shift solenoids come to mind, but the items that they control can be causing it also.
Placing the gear select in the "2" position will tell the transmission to stay in 2nd gear.....starting out and as you procede forward.

From the description on ALLDATADIY

Low / intermediate band is applied for 1st and 2nd gears.....holding the rear sun gear and drum stationary

Intermediate clutch is applied for 2nd and 3rd gears.....connects the driven sprocket to front planetary carrier and rear planetary ring gear

With the gear select in Drive and PCM commanding 2nd gear, or in "2", the 3 shift solenoids should be..
SS1 and SS2 BOTH ON SS3 OFF

If SS1 fails ON, you should have 3rd gear ONLY
If SS1 fails OFF, you should have 1st and 2nd gear ONLY (this is also what happens when the transmission goes into "Limp" mode).
Potential codes listed include P0732 for this solenoid only.....take note that this is NOT the only possible cause for P0732.....just the only one that Alldatadiy lists for any of the 3 shift solenoids stuck ON or OFF.

The ALLDATADIY diagnostic has one verify that the PCM signals get to the electrical connector at the transmission FIRST....before tearing into the transmission.

I been driving it around and it wont upshift until I get above 25mph and then if I keep my foot in it it will go to 3rd, but if I take my foot of the gas above 25mph it will shift into 2nd and then straight into 3rd but only stays in 2nd for a split second. I got a trans cooler I am going to install today if the rain doesnt hit to bad and see if that helps any. I dont think it is the TRS because I still have reverse and 3rd which have to go through the resister for 2nd for them 2 work. Could it be a shift solenoid going bad and only working when it is cold?

I found this searching thesite so wouldnt SS1 be the one going bad?

When the PCM is calling for 1st gear, SS1 is OFF, SS2 is ON, SS3 is OFF
When the PCM is calling for 2nd gear, SS1 is ON, SS2 is ON, SS3 is OFF
When the PCM is calling for 3rd gear, SS1 is OFF, SS2 is OFF, SS3 is ON
When the PCM is calling for 4th gear, SS1 is ON, SS2 is OFF, SS3 is ON
When the PCM is calling for P/R/or N, SS1 is OFF, SS2 is ON, SS3 is OFF
When the Gear select is in 3rd, as "engine brake" and PCM is calling for 3rd, SS1, is OFF, SS2 is OFF, SS3 is OFF.

It does point toward SS1 staying OFF, but the solenoid is controlling a shaft that controls valving.....which controls the items that I mentioned above.....any one of which could be stuck.
The chart you list points toward SS1
The Alldata Solenoid chart seems to match what you list
However....the failure mode that Alldata lists does not match up (although ONLY SS1 failure lists your failure code)

Alldata states that....

SS1 stuck OFF would give you 1st & 2nd Only
SS1 stuck ON would give you 3rd ONLY

SS2 Stuck Off would give you 2nd and 3rd Only
SS2 Stuck ON would give you 1st and 4th Only

SS3 Stuck OFF would give you no 4th gear (overdrive)
SS3 Stuck ON would give you no engine braking


The alldata instructions indicate a fair amount of messing around to be able to remove that side cover from the transaxle.....to get to the SS1-3 solenoids.

Glennet404 mentioned the intermediate servo.....which sound easier to get at.....Be careful of the strong spring when removing though.