Time Attack/Circuit Racer Mitsubishi Evo V

very,very great build

I was legitimately sad when I hit the last page of this thread. Your building skills are FAR beyond anything I can ever hope far, but my God is it awesome to watch! Keep up the amazing work and I really hope this car sees its finish.

Question, what would you charge to have an engine printed out like your prototypes for sale?

This is incredible! Just found this through an other thread! And damn! Your skill and tools are awesome!
Anny more updates on this beast?

This is incredible! Just found this through an other thread! And damn! Your skill and tools are awesome!
Anny more updates on this beast?
Hi Anton, thanks for your kind works. There have been updates, I was waiting to have some more substantial work done worthy of posting before I made an update.

Here is an update anyway:

I have been working on the seat buck to vacuum form the seat shell over.

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/img_0926.jpg

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/img_0931.jpg

To vacuum-form the seat, I have to cut the seat in half and vacuum form each side separately then piece it back together. There was too much draw for the sheet to form it in one piece it it was causing a lot of webbing.

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/seat/IMG_2677.jpg
This is my homemade vacuum-form that I made for less than $20.

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/seat/IMG_2679.jpg
I dusted the seat plugwith talc so that it was easier to separate from the vacuum formed plastic.

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/seat/IMG_2684.jpg
Here the .030" (.75mm) styrene is clamped between two 6mm pieces of birch plywood. This what will go in the oven at 350°F (175°C) for a few minutes. Once the plastic begins to sag, its almost ready to be formed. The clamping jig is pulled out of the oven, placed over the vacuum form and then the vacuum form is turned on. I wanted to get some video, but vacuum forming by myself is difficult enough!

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/seat/IMG_2699.jpg
After the plastic is formed and cooled, I pulled the seat plug.

After many failed attempts, and trimming later the seat is starting to take shape. Still a long ways to go.

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/seat/IMG_2704.jpg

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/seat/IMG_2705.jpg

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/seat/IMG_2708.jpg

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/seat/IMG_2710.jpg

Next I will finish trimming the seat and begin detailing.

I have also spent some time refining the body work. This is all prototype, the final body will be vacuum formed over these parts so the panels are the proper scale thickness. I've also cut up the hood for the radiator/intercooler duct work. Lastly, I added my signature dayglo yellow wheels.

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/bodymods/IMG_2649.jpg

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/bodymods/IMG_2655.jpg

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/bodymods/IMG_2658.jpg

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/bodymods/IMG_2663.jpg

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/bodymods/IMG_2664.jpg

Enjoy!

Keep it up Mike! I cant wait to see more of this one!

I think you are missing the wheels on the passenger side. :tongue:

Andy

wow, just wow. im sure he could use evergreen, but you won't be able to get those crisp bends that you would w/brass. looks great bro, is there gonna be a monster 4g63 under that hood??http://www.rekz.info/11gd.jpghttp://www.rekz.info/10dh.jpghttp://www.rekz.info/09ht.jpghttp://www.rekz.info/09ax.jpghttp://www.rekz.info/09jh.jpghttp://www.rekz.info/09bh.jpg

It's starting to look like a real car! :) :) :) Great job. Just awesome.

Daniel

PS--I didn't realize that was you (didn't make the connection again) over on the RB6 thread. I'm sorry, man! I swear kids kill brain cells, so beware! ;)

Mad man! You were almost teenager when you started :D, I'm wouldn't be surprised if you finish it with a squadron of grandsons doing mess with your colors and brushes :D

Damn, this would be the longer thread I follow :D

Fantazzztikk like ever!

Dunno what Mitsu is this (DTM new car maybe :D) but I love it.

Woah this got really interesting since the last time I saw it! This is stunning work!

I like the low tech vacuum form. Thanks for sharing.

This weekend I started working on the timing belt cover that mounts to the front of the engine to shield/protect the timing belt, oil pump drive belt, and also houses the water pump. The timing cover will be machined out of 7075 billet aluminum in two pieces, which will be bolted together. The design is not based on anything that exists today, just based off of what I would design if this were 1:1 scale.

The first step was to start drilling the holes around the perimeter of the first half to assemble the two halves once complete. The hole diameter is .012" (0.30mm).
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_7341.jpg

I was very nervous drilling these holes, since I have never drilled into aluminum with such a small drill bit. Lots of cutting fluid was used.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_7343.jpg

After drilling the holes, the part was roughed out using a .125" (3mm) end mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_7350.jpg

Detail work was done with a .03125" (0.79mm) corner rounding mill. The radius on the mill was .010" (0.25mm) to replicate the radius fillet that would exist on a 1:1 part.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_7376.jpg

After the piece was machined, I needed to remove the remaining material on the backside of the part. I don't typically enjoy doing this method, but is reliable; and after 12+ hours of machining I didn't want to screw it up!

I machined a plate of aluminum with a pocket in it that was the exact size of the part. I held the part down with a step-clamp and then machined away the remaining material with a .125" (3mm) end mill. Once I finish one half of the part, I unclamped it, turned it around anf machined the other half of the remaining material.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_7401.jpg

Finally the piece is finished, and I am extremely pleased with the final result. You can see the three bosses for the timing belt pulley's/tensioner, crank shaft bore, oil pump bore, and then the housing for the water pump impeller.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_7414.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_7416.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_7422.jpg

I decided to mock it up on the engine block to see how it looked. Keep in mind that the crank shaft journals on the engine block are not finished yet, so there is some overlap that will be removed.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_7426.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_7428.jpg

I also did an experiment this weekend that I was not sure if it was possible for me to do. I tried engraving for the very first time. Here's a teaser of the experiment for whats coming up soon!
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/cosworth_logo.jpg

Thanks for looking, enjoy!

Mike,
Your work is amazing to watch. I wish I had the skills.

Trevor

Holy crap that is awesome, live the updates! Keep it up

Unfathomable.
Totally unbelievable.
Amazing.

That is so great Mike.

You are worlds ahead of us.
Andy

Mike - you are an absolute maniac - in a good way
stunning work in the league of SB-Jaykay -et al
John

Holy end mill!? That Cover is taking ridiculous to the next level...
Just to be sure i got that right... you machined that by hand and not CNC?

I was fotrunate enough to see this in person last night and believe it or not, it looks even 100X better in person. The 7075 just glistens without polishing and I have to say it looks like something that would come out of NASA or some hi-engineering shop.

Holy end mill!? That Cover is taking ridiculous to the next level...
Just to be sure i got that right... you machined that by hand and not CNC?

Hey Joachim! Great to see you around. Thanks for the kind remarks! I hate to disappoint you, but I actually CNC'd the timing cover. Machining that by hand would have taken me months!

I was fotrunate enough to see this in person last night and believe it or not, it looks even 100X better in person. The 7075 just glistens without polishing and I have to say it looks like something that would come out of NASA or some hi-engineering shop.

Thanks a lot, Dirk! For those of you that don't know. Dirk is one of my close friends, and quite an accomplished builder and machinist himself. Several years ago, when we first met, he was the person who inspired me to constantly try to push my capabilities and what I thought I could do. Wouldn't be this far without him.


I was really hoping to have an update for everyone this week, but unfortunately made a major design mistake for the front half of the timing cover which caused me to machine right through one of the relief pockets.

http://www.theoreticalmotorsports.com/theoretical/evo/uploads/timing_cover_f_up_800_533.jpg

I suppose that proves that I really am human afterall. I have made some design changes to alleviate the problem, and hopefully I can attempt to redo it this weekend!

Truly mind blowing!

I suppose that proves that I really am human afterall.

Mike, human? Nope. I am still not convinced. :headshake

Andy

Thanks for all the kind remarks! They are great motivation.

It has been quite crazy the past few weeks since my last update. First, let me apologize for the amount of photos, but I tried to document the process of this piece as best I could. I ended up leaving out several steps along the way. The first time I tried machining the front part of the timing cover I had a design flaw and machined right through the piece. Oops.

Same as the first half, I start by drilling the through holes for the bolts using a .012" drill bit.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1117.jpg

After the bolts holes were drilled in the aluminum, I started roughing pass using a .125" (3.0mm) end mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1150.jpg

First roughing pass with the .125" (3.0mm) end mill is done.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1162.jpg

The next step was to go back and rough out with a .0625" (1.5mm) end mill. Going down to the smaller end mill allows to to rough out more detail, but not worry about stressing a smaller tool which may break. Plus the large tool allows for a higher feed rate, which cuts down my total maching time.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1164.jpg

Once all the roughing was completed, I move to the finishing tool paths which used a .03125" (0.7mm) corner rounding end mill with a ,005" radius. This radius, as used on the previous part, relieves stress cracks from vibrations if it were a real part.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1181.jpg

Finally, the back milling is complete.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1190.jpg

Just for fun, I decided to test the fit of the two halves. Looks good so far!
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1198.jpg

Like the other half, I have to machine off the remainder of the excess material. I was able to use the same tooling plate I used last time. The piece fits in the pocket snuggly to keep it from shifting around. The bottom of the pocket is also qualified so when the excess material is machined off, it is parallel to the face.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1209.jpg

Precision, repeatability, and measuring is key to a quality part. Once the part is clamped down lightly, I measure the gap using feeler gauges. As I tighten the clamp I continually check the gap between the part and the tool. If the gap is uneven, I know the part is crooked and I need to readjust it so the two faces are parallel. It is a very tedious process, but worth the extra effort to ensure a quality part.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1211.jpg

Since the step clamp covers half of the part, I have to machine one half at a time.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1212.jpg

Just like the previous step, I continually check the gap with feeler gauges to check for parallelism.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1215.jpg

Hey look, another tooling plate! This plate is used to fixture the part to machine the front side. Since I needed to be able to remove it and ensure the part was qualified square to the axes I machined the backside to create a lip to line it up accurately each time.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1221.jpg

Next I needed to machine the pocket to hold the part into the tooling plate.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1224.jpg

Machining the pocket using a .03125" (0.70mm) end mill. The pocket has an extremely snug fit to the part to keep from any shifting during part setup.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1237.jpg

Finished pocket in the tooling plate and the part ready to be machined.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1244.jpg

The part was secured the tooling plate with CA glue.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1248.jpg

Roughing out the front face with a .0625" (1.5mm) end mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1267.jpg

Finishing the front side with a .03125" (0.70mm) end mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1289.jpg

One of the final steps, which was previously hinted at in the last update, is to engrave the Cosworth logo into the front of the timing cover.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1298.jpg

The very last step was to run a .125 (3.0mm) ball mill near the top of the cover for a smooth transition to the valve cover.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_1321.jpg

Final piece:
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8059.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8060.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8068.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8070.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8073.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8076.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8080.jpg


This piece is the most difficult piece I have made to date. It was full of lots of lessons which will make me a better builder in the future. Lessons like double check your design before spending a lot of machining time and screwing up. Another lesson learned is that I should never leave aluminum sitting in an isopropyl solution unattended, it will corrode the aluminum. So now I am trying find some way to clean the corrosion without losing the machining marks. Polish is out of the question, so I need to find a liquid solution. Possibly phosphoric acid.

Thanks for looking!

Simply stunning!!!

Holy Farging Sheet, man! (Johnny Dangerously...)

Nothing else to say.

Can't find proper word to describe how great this project is... With each update I'm more and more amazed what skillfull modeller can do!

Mike, u seriously need a doctor :loser:

a good one. :biggrin:

Insane build. no words :screwy: :grinyes:

GTMIKE400mike@AFc:sunglasse:sunglasselness!!

Simply stunning work.

woah crazy stuff... I love it :iceslolan

Mike, u seriously need a doctor

I guess so... :iceslolan

Fantastic job, seriously.

All i can say is stunning :biggrin:

I'm really not from the same planet...! :icon16: :lol:
I've always wondered if modelers have bought such tools for modeling purpose or if they build (well, build, create is a better word) models like that because they had such tools under their hands... :sly: :biggrin:

Outstanding and not from this planet!! Allmost beautiful, i love this build :)

Argh! That's amazing!

This proves that insane people build great models. Because you have to be insane to even attempt such a build, don't you?

...and I simply love every part of it. Great job!

I can only sit and look, guys said everything, I to remember beginnings of your machining work Mike and I must say...great and big progress, this is now work of art.

Hello once again. I hope everyone had a very merry Christmas and got lots of gifts from the jolly fat man!

I'm really not from the same planet...! :icon16: :lol:
I've always wondered if modelers have bought such tools for modeling purpose or if they build (well, build, create is a better word) models like that because they had such tools under their hands... :sly: :biggrin:

Thank you! It is a little bit of both. I have bought tools for the modeling purpose, and in some cases I have already had the tools. But you know, if I need something new to do the job, I will eventually buy one.

Argh! That's amazing!

Thank you, Will! Good to see you around, hope all is well.

I can only sit and look, guys said everything, I to remember beginnings of your machining work Mike and I must say...great and big progress, this is now work of art.

Sasa, thank you very much for your kind words. I am glad to be improving, watching your builds has taught me a lot as well. Thank you!


-----------------------------------

Time to get on with the build!

I spent some of my time off work to make some more progress on the Evo's engine. This weekend's project was to machine the dry sump oil pan. As I have prviously mentioned, the engine will mount similar to Formula style engines utilizing sump pan and valve cover mounting points.

The first step was to drill the holes with a .012" (0.30mm) drill for mounting the oil pump later (pictured). This was followed by drilling with a .020" (0.50mm) drill for mounting the pan to the engine block.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8105.jpg

After drilling all the holes required for the engine block, I followed the same process as usual roughing out the dry sump pan with a .125" (3.0mm) end mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8117.jpg

The next step was to finish the outer perimeter of the part with a .032" (0.70mm) end mill. I also roughed out the pockets for reducing the weight of the dry sump pan.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8133.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8135.jpg

The pockets were finished with a .020" (0.50mm) ball mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8149.jpg

No oil pan would be complete without oil gallies! The first step was to rough out each oil galley using a .0625" (1.5mm) end mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8163.jpg

Clean up a little more material using a .032" (0.70mm) end mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8175.jpg

Final finishing of the oil gallies using a .020" (0.50mm) ball mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8191.jpg

This part should look rather familiar. To machine the bottom side of the dry sump oil pan, I machined a pocket in the fixture plate to hold the part in place. I used CA to hold the part down to the fixture plate which was later removed using acetone.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8201.jpg

First step on the bottom side of the oil pan was to machine the pickups and runners to get the oil from the oil gallies to the oil pump. This area will be covered with a plate later. But, as some have said, I am crazy!
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8212.jpg

The last step was to machine the pockets in the bottom of the pan using the .020" (0.50mm) ball mill. Looking beautiful!
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8227.jpg

Finally, after all that work I have a nice aluminum dry sump oil pan for the engine! Here is the bottom side of the engine. You can see the pickups from the oil pan and the paths for the oil to go to the pump.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8268.jpg

Top side of the oil pan that has the slots for the oil to get to the pickups and runners.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8272.jpg

Mounted to the engine block. I still have more work to do on the engine block, as you can see.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8283.jpg

For our international builders, I hope this gives you an idea of the size of the engine. This is a United States 1cent, which is the same size as a 1 cent Euro.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8292.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8297.jpg

Thanks for looking. Next up is the valve/tappet cover!

Mike you have gone to places i can only ever dream of....excellent work.

i won't be suprised if this gets a WIP video of the engine firing up. :)

the attention to detail is just something. truly amazing work!

Mike,

This is the first WIP that I began following on AF. I am more amazed at this point than I was with your early progress. Some ask why modelers put so much work into details that will never be seen when it is completed. The answer is because we can. I can't wait to see what your next surprise is on this build. Thanks for sharing your amazing skills with us!

Rob

Again, WoW! Awesome work Mike!

Mike you have gone to places i can only ever dream of....excellent work.

Pretty much sums it up for me. This project is way out of my reality. Every update is another piece of candy.

Mike - I'm floored - words escape me for the detail you are applying to this scale replica. Just a quick question where are you going to find a 1/24 size man to drive the thing away???
Unbelievable
John

That is sweeeeeeeeet :cool:

Wow this is freakin' awesome.

I lost my jaw somewhere on the floor, and can't Find it anymore.

This is one of THE most beautiful builds i have ever seen.

I think the valve cover is not only the most difficult part I have machined to date, but one of the most frustrating parts as well. 65 hours, 2 broken tools, and 372 swear words later I have a valve cover. Let's walk through the process.

As usual, started with a piece of 7075 Aluminum. I almost always do the drilling operations first, because they are the most likely operations to break a tool and damage the part beyond repair. The drilling operation used 3 drills, a .012" (0.30mm), .0197" (0.50mm), and a .0313" (0.70mm) for the camshaft trays, valve cover bolts, and spark plug holes respectively.

One quick note, the design of the valve cover- it is slightly different than most valve covers around and is more similar to high boost formula motors. Instead of the valve cover covering the camshaft trays/caps, they are integrated into the valve cover itself for added rigidity.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8310.jpg

Drilling operations completed.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8331.jpg

Next step was to move on to the roughing using a .125" (3.0mm) end mill. I have been experimenting with optimizing my tool paths for the CNC mill lately to help reduce cycle time. Using a special sequence of algorithms to apply a consistent chipload on the tool I was able to take a heavier cut at 3 times the typical speed, which cut the cycle time for roughing by 75%.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8339.jpg

After the main shape was roughed out, I moved on to the inside of the valve cover where the camshafts would reside.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8356.jpg

Using various long end mills ranging from .020mm" (0.50mm) to .065" (1.65mm) I continued to rough out the inside.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8366.jpg

Once most of the material had been removed, I removed the rest of the material using a .020" (0.50mm) long reach ball mill. This is the step that I broke one of my tools, and the long reach ball mills are not only fragile, but very expensive.

Note: One of the reasons this part took an excessive amount of time is that the inside walls of each of the clearance pockets for the camshaft lobes are tapered by 2° for added rigidity if this were a real part. To be completely honest, even I will admit that was over the top. After several hours of machining the taper walls I was wishing I hadn't made them tapered, especially since they will never be seen. But I am happy with the overall result.

Moving on!
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8400.jpg

To finish clearing out the pocket for the timing pulleys, I used a .065" (1.65mm) long reach end mill, followed by progressively small ball mills to create a smooth finish.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8409.jpg

The inside of the valve cover is now completed. Typical process of removing the excess material as mentioned with previous parts. Camshaft journals will milled using a .062" (1.60mm) ball mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8417.jpg

The top of the valve cover is what I was most excited about. The roughing process is just the same as on the bottom side.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8462.jpg

After roughing, it was time to start adding the details using a .020" (0.50mm) long reach end mill.

...broke one of those too. Damn.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8477.jpg

Finally, the valve cover was starting to take shape! Using a .0313" (0.70mm) ball mill I started the first stage of finishing by scalloping the part.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8486.jpg

After the first stage of finish was completed, I refined the detailed with a .020" (0.50mm) ball mill.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8491.jpg

The last setup involved machining the front face of the valve cover. I could have machined it from the top side, but it was less than optimal. As I am constantly mentioned, precision is key. Since I had to use the vise to hold the valve cover to machine the front face, I qualified my vise with a dial indicator. While this can be a time consuming process, it is extremely worth while to ensure the results are within tolerance. I qualified the vise to within .0002" over 2" parallelism.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8502.jpg

The last machining step was the machine some detail into the front face of the valve cover, specifically the area that covers the pulleys. This was done using a .0313" (0.70mm) corner rounding end mill with a .010" (0.25mm) radius.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8505.jpg

Finally the part has been completed. A few little details to add later, but for now it is complete. I am very happy with the result. it was well worth the frustration. I thought for sure this part was going to make me crazy.
http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8528.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8535.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8551.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8558.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8566.jpg

http://theoreticalmotorsports.com/evo/IMG_8604.jpg

Thanks for looking! By the way, if I am posting to much detail for each of the steps or too many photos, please let me know! Cheers!

Mike,
Your work is just incredible.

Trevor

I) if I am posting to much detail for each of the steps or too many photos, please let me know!

No we need more photos and more details. Very informative, thanks for sharing. How much do these bits cost a piece, if you don't mind me asking?

It's crazy how one side was done and then flipped and the other was milled. Still can't put my head on that. Keep us posted!!

Mike
I've said this before - You are INSANE - in a good way
I'm am just in awe at what you can do with a lump of aluminum alloy
Simply in AWE
John

This is an amazing build Mike, Dirk sent me the link to it. I remember years ago on another site when you were building that 1/12th street rod. The machine work your doing on this motor that small is unreal.

Thanks guys! I appreciate the motivation! Unfortunately, there wont be much progress in the coming weeks. This weekend I will be attending a model show in South Carolina, next weekend I will be heading to Daytona Beach, Florida for the Rolex 24 Hours of Daytona.

No we need more photos and more details. Very informative, thanks for sharing. How much do these bits cost a piece, if you don't mind me asking?

The ones that were broken were $47/each. :banghead:

always a pleasure to see an update from you. :)

This weekend I will be attending a model show in South Carolina, next weekend I will be heading to Daytona Beach, Florida for the Rolex 24 Hours of Daytona.

Have fun, I am watching the 24h on TV ;)

Awesome job! I can't stop watch! You have such a small man who it will go? If not, then you will have to do :)

I've done some milling and this is amazing work you are doing.

Wow this is freakin' awesome.

I lost my jaw somewhere on the floor, and can't Find it anymore.

This is one of THE most beautiful builds i have ever seen.

It is even more impressive in person, with an optivisor. I can't wait to see the transaxle done.

You are one talented young man, Mike!!!

Looking good Mike! Glad to see you still working on this little masterpiece. I've been trying to get motivated to dig out my 1/12th Camaro and get back to work on it.