Time Attack/Circuit Racer Mitsubishi Evo V

Great job man. Your work is very inspiring

Consider me crazy, but I love the lightening holes...

The job you're doing on the doors frame is just fantastic !

Robi :)

Been cruizing through here today and found this. Absolutely stunning build there! Love the brass work. It makes the model feel like there is something to it, lol. I will follow this one. Thanks for sharing the build.

That is totaly awesome. I am mostly into drag racing and I build 1:18 diecast, and 1:24 models. I make my own parts, engine parts, and build my own tube chassis and suspenssion. I use styrene and aluminum because it's pretty easy to work with and it does hold up. My son actually plays with the cars I build. After seeing your build here I think I'm going to give brass a shot. The chassis and roll cages I build are far less complicated to build. You have inspired me to take a step up and join the world of solder and brass. Very nice work, I can't wait to see the final project.

Wow dude great stuff ! Keep it up can't wait to see the engine in it :)

WOW :smokin::smokin::smokin:

absolutely stunning...that cage is a work of art.

Hi Mike,do you have any reference pics of the real car you are building,maybe you want to share them to us.

Raceman

Many thanks for all the compliments! I wish I had some more progress to post, but unfortunately I have been really busy between school and work. It's actually sitting on my desk at work tormenting me to be built! I just need to find a place to build in my new apartment.

Hi Mike,do you have any reference pics of the real car you are building,maybe you want to share them to us.

Raceman

Sorry, I dont have any reference, but thats because Im not basing it on any existing car. This is more of a fantasy racecar of my own creation.

This is my favorite model of the Mitsubishi Evolution series and i'm really impressed with the amount of work put into the car, I wish I have 1/2 your skill level.. Keep it up and post more progress pictures AWESOME!!! 10/10 rating

It's been some time since I've had a chance to actually sit down and work on this project. After talking with my mentors and friends at the Southern NNL I was inspired to start working on this again, but havent had time with school. Finally the semester is nearly over and time to get some work done.

I had a few minutes at work yesterday so I started drilling out some .075" x .125" with a 1.8mm drill for the bottom of the door right door frame.

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/9274/dsc07261.jpg

The door frame is almost complete. I need to fill a few spots with some Evercoat but it is too cold outside to mix any putty. This needs to be done before I can make the flange that goes around the frame as seen on the opposite side.
http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/9147/img9710.jpg

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/1415/img9702.jpg

A couple pictures of the chassis with the door frames mocked up. They will be glued to the chassis permanently once they are finished.
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/593/img9718.jpg

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/7990/img9722.jpg
Note, the section for the exhaust will be cut out once the frames are permanently attached to the chassis.

One last "mean" shot.
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/2013/img9698g.jpg

Enjoy!

awesome, just awesome!

:runaround:

Very, very great job!!!!

Mike, only thing I unlike..... is that you make we wait so long for updates.... :D

Fantastic.

I first read this thread, but what an amazing kind of work you show us here.
I will follow this one.
Take your time and it will turn out fine I think.

Greetz from Belgium

Unfortunately I haven't been able to work on this as much as I'd like to recently. I've spent much of the past month designing the engine block since most of the project revolves around the engine placement. Hopefully I should start work on the engine soon. Yesterday I went up to a friends and was able to do some work, I have started building the seat. It's not much, but it is something.

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/4779/img8341y.jpg

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/992/img8359c.jpg

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/9824/img8374o.jpg

I still need to mill out the holes for the harnesses and do some more detail work. However, my tooling to machine the engine arrived last week and my material is on the way so the seat will take a back seat for awhile (no pun intended).

Looks good Mike, it's hard to believe so much detail is being fit in when the model's so small.

I've been quite busy in front of the mill recently making lots of chips. The last post showed the roughed out engine block and an aluminum block underneath, which I will now cover more in depth.

The engine I am machining is a 4G63T. Each part is designed in 3D against tons of reference pictures (thanks to Jimmy for collaborating pictures) and measurements. I've started with the block first as it is the most crucial piece. The block is being machined out of nickel silver. Nickel silver was chosen as the material because it can be soldered, and it has a silverish appearance, among many other reasons.

The first piece to machined would be a fixture plate that I can attach the block to as a reference. The fixture plate is standard 6061 Aluminum. I first qualified all 6 surfaces, then drilled and countersunk clearance holes for a #4 screw flat head screw. An location index was drilled in the upper right corner that was reamed out to .1250" to use a dowel pin to locate the fixture in the vise to ensure that all dimensions were accurate.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7065/img9743.jpg

After reaming and drilling, the top and bottom surfaces were once again qualified to prevent any distortion from drilling.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8266/img9753t.jpg

Moving on to the engine block. Once the engine block was roughed out (.020" over) it was tapped with a 4-40 thread where the cylinder bores will be located. The 4-40 threads max diameter is smaller than the diameter of the bore, therefore the threads will be removed as the block is finally bored.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/6792/img8447.jpg

A drill guide was machined out of .125" linen phenolic to aid in drilling 1/32" diameter holes in the block. The phenolic is much easier to drill through than the nickel silver yet rigid enough to provide support of the drill bit. The phenolic was then glued to the block using spray adhesive.

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3333/img9738t.jpg

The use of a sensitive drill was necessary to drill the small 1/32" diameter holes in the block. Since sensitive drill uses a small 3 jaw drill chuck, the drill bit needed to be dialed in correctly using a dial indicator to remove all runout within ±.0005".

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/7971/img8449.jpg

After the drill bit was indicated I began drilling the holes in the block through the phenolic guide. The phenolic guide really helped support the drill. I used a syringe to apply lubricant to the work piece because the squirt bottle I typically use was flooding the piece too much.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/5719/img8469.jpg

The phenolic guide was removed after all the holes had been drilled. The primary purpose of the holes are so I can locate tubes to solder to the sides of the block.

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/9826/img8491e.jpg

My workbench was a mess, and lots of Redbull was needed.

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4489/img8508e.jpg

The block was the flipped on the sides to mill away material exposing only half of the holes that were just previously drilled. This will be the rough deck width. I also began drilling .0625" x .0075" counterbores to locate the freeze plugs later on.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/9243/img8516rn.jpg

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/5103/img8521j.jpg

Next I need to machine some sine blocks to machine some funky angles on the side of the block. That's all for now. Enjoy. :)

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/5506/img8551n.jpg

:runaround:

You've earned the official seal of awesomeness for this thread. Insane work.

brilliant stuff, love it :smokin:

Why did you put in the cilinderholes?
Doesn't need this Lancer a cilinderhead?
Because than you can't see these holes anymore.
Or is it gonna be displayed without a head?

Why did you put in the cilinderholes?
Doesn't need this Lancer a cilinderhead?
Because than you can't see these holes anymore.
Or is it gonna be displayed without a head?

The cylinder bores are there for many reasons. One reason would be the bores are used to attach the engine block to the fixture plate. The fixture plate is used as a locating point for all my machining operations.

There will be a cylinder head, but I'm not sure how it will be displayed. Part of the reason for the engine detail is I like something that challenges me to think alternatively in means of engineering and machining. Even if nobody see's it in the end, its fun for me because of the challenge involved.

Hope that answers your question, thanks for the interest.

I completely follow your "challenge" argument. A machined nickel silver engine block is a first though. That is officially insane :-)

:runaround:

You've earned the official seal of awesomeness for this thread. Insane work.

You,ve told the absolute truth here. can't say it better myself...



Paul.

Very nice

Thanks for all the kind remarks, they are very motivating.

For the past week I have been busy working on the block. Unfortunately I've spent so much time working on the block I haven't had much time to post an update, so now its time for a large update!

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/3990/img8675.jpg
To machine the angles on the right side of the block I needed to make some sine blocks. Sine blocks are fixture blocks with calculated angle to fix an object to. I've found turning the head of the mill is not the most accurate method to machine angles, so I opted for this route instead.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/8359/img8569c.jpg
After working on the block for awhile needed to machine the pieces that hold the counter-balance shafts. I used two pieces of round brass stock because I am lazy. Brass can be soldered to nickel silver, and these brass parts will not be wear surfaces like the journals and block deck. The first piece was drilled on the lathe.

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/8441/img8580.jpg
After drilling the first brass piece I mounted it in a square fixture with a C5 collet to hold the brass stock to machine it into half of a square.

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/9651/img8575j.jpg
Once the first piece of the counter-balance shaft "casing" I proceeded to the next piece, I turned it down to the proper diameter first.

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/492/img8593x.jpg
After turning it down to the proper diameter I used the sensitive drill to drill it.

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/7384/img8607o.jpg
The two pieces.

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/8135/img8612.jpg
I then separated the second piece from the stock and soldered it to the first piece. After soldering I did the final machine passes on the mill to make it the appropriate size.

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/4080/img8618.jpg

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/3064/img8623y.jpg
After making the two casings for the counter-balance shafts I went back to the block to machine the notches to hold the counter balance shaft.

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/8476/img8629.jpg
While I had everything setup in the mill I went ahead and machined some .010" slots to do the block ribbing later.

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/5602/img8641.jpg
The first counter-balance shaft casing and the engine.

After making the second counter-balance-shaft casing I soldered it together:

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/6029/img8677.jpg

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/292/img8692.jpg

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9278/img8683.jpg

Thanks for looking, enjoy!


I completely follow your "challenge" argument. A machined nickel silver engine block is a first though. That is officially insane :-)

Thanks jaykay, I haven't seen any updates from you in awhile? How are your projects progressing?

I am lazy.
If you were lazy you'd buy a kit and actually use the parts in it.

Thanks jaykay, I haven't seen any updates from you in awhile? How are your projects progressing?

Didn't have a lot of time recently but now i'm back on it and in the middle of painting. ( Did i mention i hate painting and particularly sanding and polishing? )
Once that is done i'll post an update. Not much to show right now.

Spectacular work btw. I like the precise engine details. A pity that most of that work will hardly be visible afterwards....but then you know it's there :-)

The engine is starting to to take shape. Great machining! Long way to go, don't get discouraged.

Awesome work with some cool tools. This is great fun watching.

I used two pieces of round brass stock because I am lazy....

Lazy.... somehow that word just doesn't fit with the rest of this wip. :screwy: :wink:

Really fantastic work here.


Congratulations already.

Murray

That's modelling the way I like it! Great work, very good finishing ...

Lazy? Yeah right! :nono:

Thanks for the compliments. I went up to a friends yesterday to work on models while we watched the 24 Hours of Rolex Daytona and managed to get some work done on the engine. I added some 1/32" tubing to the side of the block for the coolant to flow through. I also did work on the seat and right side door frame, but nothing worth posting yet.

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/861/img8727p.jpg

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4120/img8725v.jpg

Thanks for looking.

I needed a new desktop, so I assembled what has been completed so far (which isnt much) and took a couple shots.

http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/1069/img8761z.jpg

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1231/img8758z.jpg

Do you have those in high resolution? I would love to have one of those pictures grace my desktop!

Mike,

Glad to see this thing progressing! The work here makes me look at my 1/12th camaro and wish I had all of the cool tools.

Very nice Mike! Very nice indeed!

Today I took a break from working on the engine block. Decided to work on something different - the doors. Unfortunately when I cut out the doors out, one of the passenger side window frames warped, so I'm going to attempt to build the doors out of brass now. Not only will the window frames be stronger in brass, but the door skins will also be a more accurately scaled.

I first made a steel form to shape the brass over, then proceeded to anneal the brass.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5243/img9760.jpg
Annealing the brass with a torch.

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/4916/img8861.jpg
The steel form used to shape the brass over.

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/4236/img8868.jpg

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/6803/img8874.jpg

Thanks for looking, hope to get back to the engine block this week!

Very nice Mike! Very nice indeed!

Thanks Mark! Glad to see you're still alive and well!

Damn that looks cool, dont paint it, leave it with the burnt brass doors!!! Amazing building!!! What are you going to do to the body?

:runaround:
You just don't stop when it comes to scratchbuilding, do you?

Very cool progress. I think the all-brass doors are amazing work and I can't wait to see them all together. I am curious about the motor - are you assuming that with all the other work, the builders changed the orientation of the engine? And I'm not quite sure what the two rather large tubes running the length of the engine block represent?

Damn that looks cool, dont paint it, leave it with the burnt brass doors!!! Amazing building!!! What are you going to do to the body?

Thanks for the kind remarks. The body will get a JGTC style widebody treatment eventually.

:runaround:
You just don't stop when it comes to scratchbuilding, do you?

Nope. :icon16:

Very cool progress. I think the all-brass doors are amazing work and I can't wait to see them all together. I am curious about the motor - are you assuming that with all the other work, the builders changed the orientation of the engine? And I'm not quite sure what the two rather large tubes running the length of the engine block represent?

Thanks Will! Since I'm not building this based off of any known racecar, I am just making it up as I go. I like the look and function of a longitudinal engine, so I decided to change the orientation.

Regarding the tubes on the side, they are housings for the balance shafts. The 4G63 had two of them for some reason.

:eek2::eek2::eek2: WOW, i love the way you are building this car.
You give it a very very loveley treatment.


it sure looks awesome..


happy building with it further.


Paul.

Regarding the tubes on the side, they are housings for the balance shafts. The 4G63 had two of them for some reason.

I see. I guess that's what I get for applying what I know about Honda engines to all engines - ours would fit in the palm of your hand and are in the oil pan (where equipped). Well, save the F20 (Accord, not S2000) engines, where they're where it looks like the Mitsu ones are, but inside the water jacket.

Thanks for the support.

Today I had some time to work on the engine block today. Just started machining out the area for the mains.

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/1010/img9767.jpg
First I used a center drill to position the beginning of the hole accurately and precisely.

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/594/img9769i.jpg
I use a drill that was slightly under-size. Drill bits tend to drill over-size in metal, so using a smaller drill bit is usually a safer route. Once the girdle is machined I will clamp it to the block and line bore the mains with a reamer.

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/3200/img9772i.jpg
Using a 1/8" end mill I started to remove material for the mains and girdle.

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/7449/img8884k.jpg

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/5946/img8881r.jpg

Enjoy.

So if it's 1/24 scale, do you have to change the oil 24 times as often? :grinyes:

So if it's 1/24 scale, do you have to change the oil 24 times as often? :grinyes:

Yes, but you only use 1/24th the amount of a regular oil change,:sarcasm1: so every 24th oil change, you've used as much as one regular oil change, but you've done it 24 times more often...:banghead::banghead::banghead:, Lol!

Garey

Last week I finally had a great opportunity to get some work done on the motor. Over the years I have remained in touch with my old high school engineering teacher, so in exchange for guest speaking in his classes I get to use the CNC mill on occasion. I used the CNC mill this passed week to machine out the crankcase. I’ll let the pictures to the talking:

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/6995/img8895.jpg
Roughing pass.

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/7356/img8915g.jpg
The first roughing pass.

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/5403/img8923y.jpg
After investing so much time in the block, I like to always double check my tool paths. I marked the block with a marker, then ran the tool path removing only .0005" to make sure it was where it needed to be.

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/7895/img8943f.jpg
Finishing pass.

After over 6.5hours of run time:
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/6320/img8984.jpg

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8383/img8986i.jpg

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6436/img8989.jpg

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/8199/img8991l.jpg
Just a size comparison next to a US 1cent.

I know the question is going to be asked, "Wont this all be covered?", and the answer is that I do not know yet. Right now its just a fun challenge for myself to expand my capability.

Enjoy.

great work GTMIKE I'm enjoying this build cant wait till it all comes together, think much of a body color ?

Over the last year I have really fallen behind on posts but have noticed your amazing sig here and there which I found a fascinating model. I don't know how I missed this thread for so long but I'm glad I finally came across it. Beautiful work.

The head is looking great. Without the size comparison i actually thought it was a lot bigger. Im never to scale. :thumbsup:

brilliant, always a pleasure seeing your work!

I really enjoy watching your details and machinig skills. Engine block looks fantastic. I hope that I will learn machining to that level some day...

Thats amazing, i highly suggest either putting the engine in the chassis without the head or leaving it beside the engine in a "crate" without the head, but of course your going to have to put some beautiful pistons in there. You could create a really awesome pit garage scene

.....but of course your going to have to put some beautiful pistons in there.

Yeah, and some valves, valvesprings a camshaft and sparkplugs.
Not to forget the crankshaft and bearings!

i wouldnt be surprised if that thing cranked up and ran afterwards :)

amazing work man, simply amazing.

This is mindblowing. At the moment I'm building the compleet spaceframe off a Porsche 917 and thus know the frustrations. You are doing a great,GREAT job. I love the machining off the engine. Keep it going.

Eric

Thought I'd take a break from the work bench and post a quick update. The other night I was in the shop until the early hours of the morning drilling a bunch of tiny holes and working on adding the block deck, as well as the front and rear plates.


http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9738/img9777z.jpg
The first thing I did was solder a piece of .020" (.5mm) nickel silver sheet on the block. This will form the block deck. After soldering I began to drill holes using a .5mm drill with the sensitive drilling attachment for the coolant jackets and the head studs.

http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/7890/img9780o.jpg
After drilling I used a small 4 flute end mill to rough the block deck to size.

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/5066/img9782.jpg
I still need to be able to bolt the block upside down to my fixture plate for a few more machining operations so I plunged into the cylinder bores just enough to get to the threads.

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/4686/img9004q.jpg
Using files, sand paper, and lots of beer I began to shape the block deck to the correct profile. The side closest in the pic is the finished profile. The opposite side still needs to be shaped, the pink markings are to indicate where to remove material.

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/5046/img9022s.jpg

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/1509/img9025s.jpg

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1171/img9030q.jpg
Once all the machining is complete I will remove .005" from the block deck to achieve the correct thickness.

Now back to the bench to work on the ribbing and external bungs. Enjoy!

Sweet! I would not do that to myself in metal but rather in plastic.....but it sure is fun to watch :-)