blend door
kvn4
05-19-2009, 06:45 AM
can someone please dirrect me to the posts of repairing the blend door for a 99 windstar 3.8. i replace the whole system housing last time but dont want to spend the money i paid on the last repair . i remember readind other posts on this but cant find it.
12Ounce
05-19-2009, 11:05 AM
This a coincidence. Just yesterday I removed my old repaired blend door ... still working well. I needed to get access to the back side of my ac coil for some cleaning. (Too bad Ford didn't design/position the cabin air filter so that ALL cabin air is filtered! But that's another story.)
A fellow named "phordguy" resurrected an old image file that I could not do anything with and published a pretty comprehensive post:
.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=522563
A fellow named "phordguy" resurrected an old image file that I could not do anything with and published a pretty comprehensive post:
.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=522563
kvn4
05-23-2009, 06:04 AM
what adhesive did you use to repair it,can this be done without removing the dash. thx k
12Ounce
05-23-2009, 10:43 AM
(You're kidding, right?)
But again, and for even more detail: .....the dash/plenum stay in place for the blend door repair procedure. The radio and sound system stay in place. The temp controller panel stays in place.
It is best to remove glove box door. Remove any lower floor level trim panels, ducting, and metal framework below the radiio and temp controller ... this will vary in different models. The idea is to provide access underneath the hot water coil area ... you will be lying on your back .... looking and working upwards. It will be more comfortable if you remove the passenger seat ... but I did not.
Disconnect and remove the blend door actuator.
Remove the heater coil and the heater coil cover (plastic belly pan). Seven screws ... use a mirrow to find all of them. Of course, this will require coolant drainage and disconnecting at the engine box firewall.
The cutting and repair may now proceed. Those cut images are beginning to disappear from the host site ... better get them while available.
I used a two-part epoxy from Home Depot. Available in the Paint Dept ... the plastic hypo-needle looking thing. Choose a cure time that you are comfortable with. I think I selected 60 minute cure.
Haven't heard/read from Phordguy in a long while ... hope he's still around.
But again, and for even more detail: .....the dash/plenum stay in place for the blend door repair procedure. The radio and sound system stay in place. The temp controller panel stays in place.
It is best to remove glove box door. Remove any lower floor level trim panels, ducting, and metal framework below the radiio and temp controller ... this will vary in different models. The idea is to provide access underneath the hot water coil area ... you will be lying on your back .... looking and working upwards. It will be more comfortable if you remove the passenger seat ... but I did not.
Disconnect and remove the blend door actuator.
Remove the heater coil and the heater coil cover (plastic belly pan). Seven screws ... use a mirrow to find all of them. Of course, this will require coolant drainage and disconnecting at the engine box firewall.
The cutting and repair may now proceed. Those cut images are beginning to disappear from the host site ... better get them while available.
I used a two-part epoxy from Home Depot. Available in the Paint Dept ... the plastic hypo-needle looking thing. Choose a cure time that you are comfortable with. I think I selected 60 minute cure.
Haven't heard/read from Phordguy in a long while ... hope he's still around.
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