2002 Impala LS Power Problem

My 2002 Impala has 95,000 miles on it. Suddenly, I noticed that at aroudn 30 mph it seem to want to bog down. Within a few days, at 30 mph it just seem to not be getting fuel and the more I tried to excel the more I heard noises under the hood. The mechanic charged me $50 to put it on a computer and told me both front wheel bearings needed replaced. I did not doubt that because of other issues I had been trying to solve for a few months. However, when I questioned him as to how that would affect this power issue he said it was due to the sensors in the ABS system and a caution issue. I had doubts, so I asked him to replace my fuel filer and air filter as well. Got the car back, not only is the power issue no different, the ABS and Service Traction lights still remain on, I have a squeek in my right front wheel while moving. A few months ago, I had the rotors turned, new brakes on the front and two tie rods on the left front replaced.

Any suggestions on this problem would be greatly appreciated. I have already put a lot of $$ in this thing. Thanks!

Your wheel bearings have nothing to do with the power issue.
The bearings do have the wheel speed sensors in them, which the computer uses to determine wheel speed. The wheel speed info is used by the ABS/traction control system. When a sensor goes bad (very common on these cars) the ABS/trac system turns itself off, resulting in the ABS/trac lights.
The lights can also be caused by a break in the wire to any one of the four wheel speed sensors, or corrosion in the connectors at the wheels. The wire break is more common on the front wheels, due to the flexing when you turn the steering wheel.

I suggest going to an Autozone, they will scan it for free. Write down the codes you get (it will be something like this: P0300, a letter followed by 4 numbers) and post them here. Be advised that Autozone's scanners will not pick up all codes, however.

Please describe the noises you heard. It's hard to diagnose a problem without more info. You could have anything from a plugged catalytic convertor (very common, there was a recall on certain years I think) to just bad spark plugs or wires.

My 2002 Impala has 95,000 miles on it. Suddenly, I noticed that at aroudn 30 mph it seem to want to bog down. Within a few days, at 30 mph it just seem to not be getting fuel and the more I tried to excel the more I heard noises under the hood. The mechanic charged me $50 to put it on a computer and told me both front wheel bearings needed replaced.

Any suggestions on this problem would be greatly appreciated. I have already put a lot of $$ in this thing. Thanks!

this mechanic is a thief,,,don't go back to him....your problem is as stated earlier is,, probably a fuel/cat issue....

the ABS sensor will not cause your problem ,,,so this is something ,, this mechanic,,,, stole your money ..he must also be an idiot...to try to sell this B/S...

if the exhaust is restricted or you do not have suffecient fuel you will not get a DTC...testing with pressure gauges is required to determine if these areas are in need of repair...

GUESSING IS NOT REQUIRED AT YOUR EXPENSE...
when getting your vehicle repaired always [in writting ] the defect as stated ,,,will be repaired or no payment will be made..

I suggest going to an Autozone, they will scan it for free. Write down the codes you get (it will be something like this: P0300, a letter followed by 4 numbers) and post them here. Be advised that Autozone's scanners will not pick up all codes, however.

From the problems other users have had, I'm fairly sure that parts store code checkers only get the generic p0xxx codes (not even p1xxx, which are manufacturer codes), which may help with the 30mph limit, but I would think that unless the guy that sold the hub assemblies set out to steal a few hundred dollars from you, there probably aren't any p-codes or he would have looked in that area first. Just to satisfy my curiosity (and possibly get your money back and/or some time on the local news :)), pop the center caps or wheel covers off that and see if he actually replaced the hub assemblies. That seems like an incredibly stupid mistake for any "professional" to make :2cents:

Shot in the Dark here, Your sounds sound like this when you give it gas?

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee46/MaImpala/2002%20Impala/th_100_4688.jpg (http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee46/MaImpala/2002%20Impala/?action=view&current=100_4688.flv)

Hemi, at first I thought you had pretty good acceleration from 40-60...then I noticed it was in KM/H.
Risefedup, a simple back pressure test, as jCat suggested, is probably your next job. Also go to NTSB.gov, and search for recalls on the Impala, see if yours is the right year for the cat recall.
Sometimes, when the cat plugs, it will cause the exhaust to get so hot that upstream of the cat it will glow after a long drive.

:rofl: ALOT of people always think that in my videos. Then they realize Im a Canuk. :smokin: And No shit on Glowing up Manifolds. My cat hit the final straw suddenly, which is when i took this video. shortly after I was getting Random misfire CEL @ 2500 RPM. Barely got to the shop.

Good sound clip there HeMi101. I posted a power loss problem on my mom's 03 Impala and j caT suggested the cat converter. The sound sure is similar. Is the sound coming from the top of the motor? Like the valves are floating?
I will post the results when she gets her converter checked.

Thanks for everyone for your input. They now have replaced my fuel pump and yep, just my luck, not the problem. Today, they removed the cat and said it ran like a race car no prolems. Now, they are replacing the cat. I will check for a recall on this issue. Again, I appreciate all of your help. I am totally frustrated with this entire deal!

Thanks for everyone for your input. They now have replaced my fuel pump and yep, just my luck, not the problem. Today, they removed the cat and said it ran like a race car no prolems. Now, they are replacing the cat. I will check for a recall on this issue. Again, I appreciate all of your help. I am totally frustrated with this entire deal!

finding an honest and capable auto tech can be a tough job...remember testing before replacing,,,,many of these hack auto tech's do this so as to replace componets to jack up the profit...

I stated earlier to have the fuel and cat tested with pressure gauges for any issues....

The mechanic did put a hand held computer on the car and it only showed wheel bearings. I took it to the parts store and had them do the same thing (for free, he charged me $50) after the bearings were replace and no codes came up. Would that not show the cat or fuel pump? And, I have to question why my check engine light never came on.

Cat and fuel pump will not show a code. Not everything is monitored by the computer.
As stated before, throwing parts at a problem is not what a good mechanic does. You need to find another one, so you don't get ripped off again. Also, ask for them to do some testing, don't just give them the keys and say 'Fix it'.

Actually, Iflylow, you are wrong. The cat and fuel pump will throw dtc's. ever seen "cat efficiency low" or "fuel trim system lean"? if you've ever used a techII you might have. the cat low efficiency code is just that and is not an O2 or MAF code. although the fuel trim system lean code can point at a plugged fuel filter or a faulty fuel pressure regulator, the W bodies of this year gap are notorious for the cat plugging. thats why gm offers an 80,000 mile special policy emissions warranty on them. The 00 - 05 W bodies are notorious for other things as well. The front wheel hubs (which are a composite unit consisting of a wheel speed sensor and bearings. {however, if you keep running into a particular sensor variation code despite repairs, you may be looking at a pricey EBCM replacement.}), fuel sending unit (also a composite unit with the fuel pump on these cars.), and ignition switches (not to be confused with the lock cylinder.). How about the occasional heater motor bearing coming unsealed and stenching up the ductwork with the smell of burned grease.(not a fun fix.) or the sweet spot in the windshield that cracks in the same place and in the same pattern on all the 00 - 05 impalas?
:sarcasm1:

Hi guys and thanks for all the input. My head is spinning. After the cat was corrected, my check engine light came on and a lot of sounds are in the front wheels or brakes somewhere. I took it back to be done right and find out why I have spent $1000 on repairs and still have issues. The car is running good, but my fuel mileage is now poor. This mechanic said now that the oxygen sensor was bad and he replaced that. He also said he removed the wheels and cleaned off the brake dust and now it only had a small squeal. Not true, the front left wheel makes a rubbing sound when I am back up slow. The front makes a crunching sound when I put on the brake, and both wheels have a squeal while in motion. I am ready to unlaod this thing.

Check engine light is probably P0420 because of an aftermarket cat. causes no harm, just the rear o2 sensor thinks something is wrong.

If you have a sticking calipers for some reason, the pads would be constantly pressing on that brake rotor. That will cause Poor gas millage (because its resistance) and Squeel all the time. Wheel will also be STUPID hot after a nice 20 mile drive.

Crunch sound I can't think of anything right now. Possibly a Crumbling brake pad? Whens the last time your brakes were FULLY inspected?

I just had new brakes put on last fall and the new wheel bearings this past month. The mechanic said he cleaned off brake dust and the sounds were gone. Not true, they seem worse than ever. Also, as for the cat, he removed it and did not replace it. I am worried about that situation and am going to take it elsewhere for replacement. I think since he did that my gas mileage is awful. Also, my digital readout of how many miles of gas I have left to travel is now suddenly stuck on 216. Isn't there a law about taking off the cat?