Coolant "Y" Pipe to the Heater

The "Y" Pipe that comes off the Water Pump and splits to the heater and Bypass Piper started leaking at the weld for the plit (will post pictures later). I tried looking at the online Ford Parts sites and the part cannot be found.

Right off the pipe I got part number XF2E-18663-AB but none of the sites are able to find it. Anybody has a different part number that could work on the online Ford Parts dealers?

I would like to price it online before calling the local parts dealer and I will really appreciate any help.

The "Y" Pipe that comes off the Water Pump and splits to the heater and Bypass Piper started leaking at the weld for the plit (will post pictures later). I tried looking at the online Ford Parts sites and the part cannot be found.

Right off the pipe I got part number XF2E-18663-AB but none of the sites are able to find it. Anybody has a different part number that could work on the online Ford Parts dealers?

I would like to price it online before calling the local parts dealer and I will really appreciate any help.

I REPLACED THIS ON MY 01 THIS PAST SUMMER WILL CK PT#&$$$ THIS EVENING AND REPLY TUESDAY.

Try XF2Z-18663-AA.

If all else fails, send an email to Y2K Ford in Seattle.
They have a provision for this on their parts website.
Give them your VIN and a description of what you need.

Another thing you can do is go to your local FORD dealership parts counter, they have a MUCH better parts breakdown on their computers than I have seen anyplace else......it has blow up pictures with part numbers.

I just looked on alldata......does not show any picture of your part (for my '96.....and I have it on mine)

Well, I went ahead and got the part thru my local Ford Parts dealer ($48.44 w/ tax) and they had no trouble locating the part and actually had 2 in stock... I guess they know the high failure rate on this part!

Anyway, got it installed and everything is working fine now.
Here's the old part...

Heater "Y" Pipe
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/IMG_0683RustDamage.jpg

Outlet to ByPass Tube rusted thru and "Y" seam damage
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/IMG_0679RustDamage.jpg

Closeup on "Y" seam damage, metal was too weak for repairs
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/IMG_0682RustDamage.jpg

This failure had been going on for a while... but the funny thing is that I never saw the Temp Gauge go past the middle, where it always sits at normal operating temp. I never had a chime or a low coolant warning on the dash, never saw a leak, puddle or stain in the engine bay area. And I never smelled coolant untill a week ago when I started using the heater. Then yesterday I pop the hood to have a look since the heater stopped working and it sounded like a tea kettle, steam but no coolant gushing and just a faint stain around the PS Pump, engine and firewall.

I had to add 2 gallons of 50/50 to bring it up to normal level, but there were no signs of trouble, unless this hole just happened when I stated using the heater last week!

I had a hard time finding the specified coolant to use on my 2000 Windstar and the Ford dealer wanted too much for one bottle, so I got a bottle of Peak "All Green" Antifreeze which states it's compatible with "Ford 2000 and earlier" models.
Anyway I need to do a flush soon as the old coolant is obviously contaminated with rust... I just hope the bypass tube holds, I don't want to mess with the intake all over again!

My 2000 just started leaking right at the tee in the tube. How big of a pain is it to replace? Looks like an awful lot of stuff has to come off to get to it.

Well, I went ahead and got the part thru my local Ford Parts dealer ($48.44 w/ tax) and they had no trouble locating the part and actually had 2 in stock... I guess they know the high failure rate on this part!

Anyway, got it installed and everything is working fine now.
Here's the old part...

Heater "Y" Pipe
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/IMG_0683RustDamage.jpg

Outlet to ByPass Tube rusted thru and "Y" seam damage
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/IMG_0679RustDamage.jpg

Closeup on "Y" seam damage, metal was too weak for repairs
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/IMG_0682RustDamage.jpg

This failure had been going on for a while... but the funny thing is that I never saw the Temp Gauge go past the middle, where it always sits at normal operating temp. I never had a chime or a low coolant warning on the dash, never saw a leak, puddle or stain in the engine bay area. And I never smelled coolant untill a week ago when I started using the heater. Then yesterday I pop the hood to have a look since the heater stopped working and it sounded like a tea kettle, steam but no coolant gushing and just a faint stain around the PS Pump, engine and firewall.

I had to add 2 gallons of 50/50 to bring it up to normal level, but there were no signs of trouble, unless this hole just happened when I stated using the heater last week!

I had a hard time finding the specified coolant to use on my 2000 Windstar and the Ford dealer wanted too much for one bottle, so I got a bottle of Peak "All Green" Antifreeze which states it's compatible with "Ford 2000 and earlier" models.
Anyway I need to do a flush soon as the old coolant is obviously contaminated with rust... I just hope the bypass tube holds, I don't want to mess with the intake all over again!
Thanks for posting the picture.. I have a 2001.. I just went and inspected mine.. It looks ok.. But thanks for the photo.. I was always wondering what all the fuss was about with these pipes.. Now I can see..

My 2000 just started leaking right at the tee in the tube. How big of a pain is it to replace? Looks like an awful lot of stuff has to come off to get to it.

Just remove the cowl for easy access and it can be done!

I did remove the fresh air Intake Duct for the cabin, it's the big oval plastic shroud that sits right behind the PS Pump. All you need is to remove 2 nuts, one on top one on bottom (12" extension and a deep 7/16 socket) and a small vaccum hose that connects to it on top. Takes less than 5 mins to do and I feel is well worht it considering the amount of room you get!
Especially for the removal of the heater hose which sits behind the engine.

The "Y" Pipe is held on in place by 2 (10mm) screws, one on top of the Water Pump and the other on top of the PS Pump which is hard to see.
In my case, hoses that go into the "Y" Pipe were very easy to remove as I thought they were going to be caked on by the heat, age and presence of rust!

The only thing that gave me a hard time was the removal of the "Y" Pipe from the Water Pump. It was caked on and there's not much room to wiggle it or pull it out. So I used standard plyers to rotate and break it free (maybe 1/4 inch to each direction as there's little room for play) and a small 6 to 8 inch pry bar to the flangethat attaches it to the Water Pump to force it out while wiggling, time consuming, but it did the trick.

As a precaution I removed the serpentine belt and the connector for the cam synchronizer which sits right behind the water pump to give me more room to play and to avoid any further damages to both any of those parts and my knuckles.

All in all, it was fairly easy and even tho i took my time and went slow and carefull it took me about 1½ hours to remove and less than 1 hour to put it back together.

Thanks for posting the picture.. I have a 2001.. I just went and inspected mine.. It looks ok.. But thanks for the photo.. I was always wondering what all the fuss was about with these pipes.. Now I can see..

No problem Gary, glad to be of help, but as a warning to all... don't judge the rust stain around the "Y" weld as a sign of trouble to come, that is more a sign of the outcome, that's just a staing from the little coolant that spilled. I can clean it off and make the pipe look as good as the new one I just bought.

What I'm trying to say is that this pipe looked great and showed no signs of trouble a few of moths ago when I was doing maintenance on my van. This damage comes from the inside and works it self out without a warning!

I always thought that my van used orange type antifreeze when in fact uses green, so everytime I looked at the degas bottle and saw orange I was looking at rust and didn't think of it. I mean a flush was done at 30K before I got it and I'm just over 60K miles now!

When the level went low I never realized on it cause the bottle was stained to the "Full Level" and I never bothered opening the bottle to check as it apeared to be at level from the outside. So just be carefull and keep check for signs of trouble.

The part that 12Ounce listed a few posts above checks out at Y2KFord and Genuine Ford Parts and it's around $25 plus shipping. So if you plan to keep your van I would recommend you get this part and the Bypass tube for when the time comes instead of having to pay much more at the local parts dealer.

Does anybody have the Bypass tube part number? I would like to get it since the one on my van gotta be getting close to blowing up by the look of things.

Are you referring to XF2Z-8548-AA (KM-4386)?

All in all, I think we would be better off not flushing and fooling with the radiator coolant so much. I know I'm not in the mainstream here ... but I don't have any system corrosion either! I have 250k miles on my vehicle ... and except for when a hose popped off at about 60k miles ... the coolant is still "original" mostly. I do believe in testing the coolant and keeping it rich in anti-freeze (-55 deg F) ... and occassionally dump in a pinch of baking soda to keep the acid at bay.

I admit the coolant is beginning to look pretty awful ... but still effective. I may break down and do a dump and refill this spring ... nothing fancy ... just want it to look prettier.

I switched my '96 over from green to G-05, just dump and fill...no flush, no chemicals.
I like to keep some Barr's Stop leak in there.....the tablets are best....and if you can put them into the bottom radiator hose....that is best.
Otherwise....put the tablets into some water to break them down...and once you drain the system....poor in the stuff from the tablets with the first fluid you put in.
So that you don't have it all sitting below the radiator cap.....to be pushed into the overflow bottle as the coolant expands as it warms......before it has a chance to circulate through the system.

When I was trying to look up that pipe last night (without luck), I found that the 1996 - 2003 3.8L windstar uses the SAME water pump.

Knock on wood....my original water pump is still going....in my '96 at over 207K miles.

Are you referring to XF2Z-8548-AA (KM-4386)?

Yeah that's it... thanks. It's priced lowest at Y2KFord!

Item Number .... MSRP ..... Core Price ... Price
XF2Z8548AA .... $59.44 ... ..... $0.00 .... $30.76

TUBE ASY - WATER BYP

That's just the part without shipping added of course.

Just remove the cowl for easy access and it can be done!

I did remove the fresh air Intake Duct for the cabin, it's the big oval plastic shroud that sits right behind the PS Pump. All you need is to remove 2 nuts, one on top one on bottom (12" extension and a deep 7/16 socket) and a small vaccum hose that connects to it on top. Takes less than 5 mins to do and I feel is well worht it considering the amount of room you get!
Especially for the removal of the heater hose which sits behind the engine.

The "Y" Pipe is held on in place by 2 (10mm) screws, one on top of the Water Pump and the other on top of the PS Pump which is hard to see.
In my case, hoses that go into the "Y" Pipe were very easy to remove as I thought they were going to be caked on by the heat, age and presence of rust!

The only thing that gave me a hard time was the removal of the "Y" Pipe from the Water Pump. It was caked on and there's not much room to wiggle it or pull it out. So I used standard plyers to rotate and break it free (maybe 1/4 inch to each direction as there's little room for play) and a small 6 to 8 inch pry bar to the flangethat attaches it to the Water Pump to force it out while wiggling, time consuming, but it did the trick.

As a precaution I removed the serpentine belt and the connector for the cam synchronizer which sits right behind the water pump to give me more room to play and to avoid any further damages to both any of those parts and my knuckles.

All in all, it was fairly easy and even tho i took my time and went slow and carefull it took me about 1½ hours to remove and less than 1 hour to put it back together.

Thanks. That doesn't sound like anything I can't do. Now if I can convince my wife to wait a little longer instead of having to get the part from the dealer. :D I don't know why I let new cars intimidate me. Old cars are just so much simpler, so much less to go wrong. I guess I just don't like to jump into something new without seeing someone else do it first or help guide me through it. I just found this forum, and reading it has been pretty encouraging.

I bought the parts at a Ford dealership ... and got prices similar to what's written here, IIRC.

Hello I am new to these forums and have a few questions. First I own a 2000 windstar and have recently had a coolant leak which 3 shops i have been to could not find where it is leaking from. I first to it to a monroe shop where they supposedly performed a leak test with dye and told me that it was my coolant temp sensor leaking at the threads....ok i said go ahead and fix it. after the repair they cal me and said we have a second leak. Well i told him ilooked at the entire engine bay prior to bringing it in and i never noticed a leak at the sensor location. and now you say i have a 2nd leak elswhere?. in fear of getting ripped off further i asked what the leak could be now...he said it is most likley a head gasket which they could fix for around 1200.00 bucks or a lower intake gasket for arounf 400-500 dollors. I said no way and left and took it to a local pep boys...pep boys said they never really heard of a temp sensor leaking but they needed to do a leak pressure test themselves.....for 40 dollors....now mind you i spent 89.00 for the sensor and coolant flush now im spending 40 just on a leak test....after about 2 hours in pep boys they say i have no leaks what so ever.....i think great and leave the next day im driving and it starts leaking fluid in the same spot ( between tranny and oil pan). I then take it to a different shop and they cant see where it is leaking but it is leaking and tell me same thing head gasket or lower intake. ( by the way pressure tests all read at the time no loss of pressure????) Yet i have no check enging light on and temp gauge never goes above normal although i lost heat for about 1/2 hour today then heat came on.

After researching these forums and sites on the net things are pointing to the bypas tube under the upper intake manifold. I am all ready to perform this task when i see this post with a pic of the "Y" tube....my question here is that does not look like the tube under my upper intake...is that a different tube on my 3.8l or is it in another location on my engine as if it is maybe that is the tube with the leak? And can i check that "y" tube without opening the upper intake?


Also to note I do not have any visible coolant or any of that white milky residue in my oil or under my oil cap and no white smoke comming from my exaust.

The "Y" Pipe runs from the top of the Water Pump (attached by one 10mm screw) and it's routed towards the right side or firewall side of the engine to the "IN" hose side of the heater core.

This pipe it's routed flowing right behind the Power Steering Pump (were it's attached to by another 10mm screw). Right behind the Power Steering Pump it splits in two (hence the name "Y" Pipe) and the split end points upwards and attaches to a hose that curves back down and towards the Intake Manifold and attaches to the ByPass Pipe.

Basically the "Y" Pipe leaks right at the base of the weld for the "Y" split on the tube, as seen on the picture I posted.

The way I found the leak was by letting the engine run to normal operating temp and with the hood up I shut off the engine and go listen for a hissing or spraying sound around the area. In my case I could see steam coming off the pipe sice there wasn't enough coolant in the system to run thru the pipe.

Just for clarity for everyone, the Y-pipe to the water pump carries the "return" flow of coolant TO the pump, NOT away from the pump. It collects the flow from the heater cores and the bypass hose. The pump also receives the cooled coolant from the radiator in the same manner or direction. It then pumps the cooled or cooler coolant through the engine, which raises the coolant to it's highest temperature and then to the outlets to the bypass hose, heater core hose, and thermostat, which when open would allow the high temp coolant to the upper radiator hose to the radiator. When the coolant goes through all of those things, it will return back to the water pump at the front of the engine.

I don't mean to slight anyone here with my explaination, but even I should have known better on the coolant flow direction and didn't figure it out til much later in my automotive experience that I had assumed incorrectly how the coolant was pumped through the system. Let's just say I forgot what they taught me in school on this subject, and it wasn't in high school. :shakehead:

Ahhh I see now, thank you guys very much that cleared alot up for me. Im going to try and get to this job this weekend and want to get as much info as possible before i tear any parts out. Im very confident in my ability to do so and these forums have made me that much more confident. I just wish i knew the exact place where this leak is....just hoping it is the bypass tube and not the lower intake gasket or worse.( head gasket). another quick question i have is now it appears from the photos in some post on these forums i do not need to remove the gasket that connects the air cleaner tube to the lower half of the upper intake is this correct?

Erikx, I am not sure of what you are asking about the gasket for air cleaner tube.
My unit is a 1996, which is different enough from 1999 that I would defer to one of the members with a newer unit.
But maybe clarification on what you are asking?

The big air filter tube is on the other side of the motor, connects to the throttle body.

Then there are gaskets associated with the upper intake manifold.
I don't think you have to remove the upper intake manifold for this repair, but one of the other posters will know better than I on this.

The "Y" pipe is down in there.....and on the front of the motor at that.
I don't know if FORD had corrected the weakness in the "front cover", aka "timing cover" gasket by 1999.
The replacement gaskets are improved.
This gasket is for the plate that the water pump mounts to.....and the oil pump is a part of.

You should be able to look around with a flashlight and see much of that end of each lower intake manifold gasket.

Head gasket it NOT a common failure on your year of windstar.....the 1995 3.8L is what gave the windstar the head gasket reputation.

Best of luck on your repair...and please post back ANY questions you have along the way.....the posters who have given help so far are quite knowlegeable.
Also....please post back your success and hints along the way....as it will help others down the road (but hopefully not stranded out on the road).

Ok, i finally just up and did this job today...6 hours later( i blame the beer for slowing me down lol). Thanks to the information in these forums i found this job very easy. AND YES i ALSO RECOMMEND REMOVING THE COWL WITH WIPER MOTOR AS IT MADE THE JOB SO MUCH EASIER AND I CANT SEE HOW ANYONE COULD DO THE JOB WOITH THE COWL IN PLACE. And I almost forgot to mention the coolant leak was from the bypass coolant tube that runs in-between the upper and lower intakes. The tube itself looked brand new...very clean no rust anywhere on the tube. But when i looked at where the pipe enters the lower intake manifold it was surrounded by coolant. At first glance i thought ok no rust and no visible cracks in the tube i assumed it was a faulty o-ring. I called the dealer and asked if the o-rings fail from time to time and he said he never heard of it. Ok, so i figured it must be these "pinholes" i keep reading about on the net, so i removed the tube plugged up the openings and blew air into the tube and lo-and behold air bubbles formed around the weld where it takes a 90 degree turn into the lower intake manifold.

i also cleaned up the egr ports as they were a little clogged up with gunk, upper intake was loaded with oil, isolater bolts were soaked in oil as well.

Large upper intake gasket was 19.98
6 smaller gaskets ran 18.32
8 isolater bolts ran 61.68
Bypass coolant tube ran 59.58

Grand total 159.56

Oh yeah and the case of beer ran 23.50

The vehicle seems to run smoother for some reason unless im imaganing things...seems a bit more respnsive when i hit the gas pedal.

And no Check engine light on either....but keeping fingers crossed and if it comes on i will post what codes if any.


One more question while im here...when i removed the cowl today i remember unplugging the wiper motor but when i put everything back together i noticed another plug that i cant seem to find where it goes...???? it is on the same wire that the wiper motor plug is. Does anyone have a clue what this might be???? everything works wipers, squirters, rear wiper...all sensor are plugged in as i dont have a cel on...thats all i can think of.

Wiswind..i just posted and then i seen your response as you can see all went well....mine is a 2000 windstar btw..like i said above the "y" pipe wasnt my problem but the bypass tube uner the intake( thank god as it wasnt the lower intake gasket) the gasket i was curious about was where the air cleaner tube connects to the lower half of the upper intake. From looking at pics on these forums i thought i would have to remove that as well but when i actually got everything out i then seen it was attached to the lower half of the upper intake so all was good.

My "y" pipe was in good shape...but it had some surface rust that bubled the paint that was on it....but no leaks. before i took evrything apart i thought that the "y" pipe and the bypass tube was a single unit which im glad was not the case. i was going to change the y pipe just in case but i knew by that point in the tear down process that if i need to i can replace the y pipe without taking the intake apart...so no worries there.

but i just want to thank you and all that have posted here about the windstar. because of these forums and the information posted my life is better and im secure in the knowledge that i can perform almost any repair myself. I think i have found a new home here where i can ask questions knowing i can get help and the right answers i need without bieng scoffed at and told to RTFM! thank all you guys.


P.S. no visble leaks around lower intake gasket or heads....and pressure testing held firm no loss of pressure.

It is really good to hear that all is well.
I replaced the bypass tube on my '96 when I was working with the lower intake manifold gaskets.
Since I had all that stuff apart...and had read about the leaks that some folks had.......I put a new one in at that time.

Thanks, any clue as to what that plug i described 2 post above could be? i hate to not find it if it is important...i know i wont sleep till i find out where this plug goes..lol

You may want to lift the air filter canister to find where that plug goes. If not the "hood closed/opened switch", I would guess it goes to the fan relay module under the air filter. How many wires are in the plug?

Thanks, any clue as to what that plug i described 2 post above could be? i hate to not find it if it is important...i know i wont sleep till i find out where this plug goes..lol

Unless you have an extra option from the factory, I really don't know what that other plug could be! Is it possible for you to take a picture and post it here for us to see? I wonder if it's a tap for the assembly line to do diagnosing when the van was built. Altho I don't remember having any loose plugs hanging around that area on my van.

When I remove the cowl on mine all that gets disconnected is the wiper motor plug (driver side) and the windshield washer's plastic elbow for the sprayers (passenger side)

ya, we need a pic of the unmated connector. Could it be either the TRS (way deep down and not likely) or from the aircleaner? I have quickly installed the aircleaner upside down which put the connector on the firewall side, tho that then puts the rear vac line at the front. Hmm, I'm curious what this is??

Piper

Ok, i finally just up and did this job today...6 hours later( i blame the beer for slowing me down lol). Thanks to the information in these forums i found this job very easy. AND YES i ALSO RECOMMEND REMOVING THE COWL WITH WIPER MOTOR AS IT MADE THE JOB SO MUCH EASIER AND I CANT SEE HOW ANYONE COULD DO THE JOB WOITH THE COWL IN PLACE. And I almost forgot to mention the coolant leak was from the bypass coolant tube that runs in-between the upper and lower intakes. The tube itself looked brand new...very clean no rust anywhere on the tube. But when i looked at where the pipe enters the lower intake manifold it was surrounded by coolant. At first glance i thought ok no rust and no visible cracks in the tube i assumed it was a faulty o-ring. I called the dealer and asked if the o-rings fail from time to time and he said he never heard of it. Ok, so i figured it must be these "pinholes" i keep reading about on the net, so i removed the tube plugged up the openings and blew air into the tube and lo-and behold air bubbles formed around the weld where it takes a 90 degree turn into the lower intake manifold.

i also cleaned up the egr ports as they were a little clogged up with gunk, upper intake was loaded with oil, isolater bolts were soaked in oil as well.

Large upper intake gasket was 19.98
6 smaller gaskets ran 18.32
8 isolater bolts ran 61.68
Bypass coolant tube ran 59.58

Grand total 159.56



I am getting ready to replace my y-pipe as it appears that is where the leak is, but I am wondering now if I need the tube that goes through the intake as well or possibly instead... guess I should pull the cowl and investigate a little closer before I buy the parts.

Had your van not had the isolator bolts replaced already? I will do a search, but I didn't get the impression you had to do that when you took off the upper intake to clean the EGR ports.

Update...it appears according to a ford dealer tech who i showed it to today says its just an extra plug that would have gone to an option i dont have...i just never noticed it before because i never removed my cowl before...lol.

Grabber, If the y pipe is where the leak is for sure...then dont bother i would say...but if not sure i would say go ahead and remove the upper intake and remove the bypass tube and blow air thru the pipe with other ends plugged and much like checking for a gas leak on a gas stove pipe wet it with soapy water and watch for air bubbles at the welds..thats how i found the leak in my pipe.

As far as replacing the isolater bolts you pretty much have to if they are the originals from what i have read as the upper intake is split into 2 halves...from what i have read the gaskets are re-usable...i replaced mine anyways...but if you just want to clean the EGR ports then no you dont actually have to replace them....but then again...if your already there why not if you have the money for the job and if the upper intake is filled with engine oil from the poor gaskets underneath.

Also from reading up on all the problems with these bypass and y pipes i would reccomend replacing them as preventative maintainence...now if i can solve this stupid abs light issue im all set..lol

I finally got around to looking at this (my wife is being pretty patient, but she keeps dropping hints about getting her van back :D) and it's definitely the y-pipe. There is no coolant anywhere else on the motor, and after removing the cowl I backed it out of the garage and let it run until coolant started leaking from the the soldered/welded junction of the y-pipe. Going to try to pick it up today and replace it.

Well, that wasn't bad at all. The hardest part was working the old tube out without moving the power steering pump. That and getting the bolt under the pressure line loose. I was working alone and didn't want to fool with the serp belt. Getting ready to flush the cooling system and get this sucker back on the road. Thanks to all that gave guidance.

has anyone bought this y pipe at rock auto?? Any idea on part number???

Just wanted to add to this thread and indicate that the part number listed is not necessarily correct. The part no. XF2Z 8538 AA (Motorcraft KM 4386) is for the tube that runs under the intake, and NOT the Y-pipe that runs from the heater core return to the top of the water pump. Both repairs are discussed in this thread. Will post the correct part number for the Y pipe when I learn what it is.

I have already replaced my "under intake" pipe twice (2002 - Windstar SEL - 100K). Leaked at the tube bend both times. I believe when they bend the pipe, they weaken the metal (make it too thin in the bending process).

Additionally, I am now having to replace the "Y" pipe too. It is leaking at the weld where the first "Y" bends off the main pipe. Again, poor manufacturing.

The part number stamped on the pipe (per the ford parts person is a "stamping number") is XF2E-18663-AB. But the actual ford part number that he gave me after the "conversion" was XF2Z-18663-AA. So both are correct I guess, but the second one should be used when trying to find it. My local ford dealer had it in stock for $45.50. Saw it online for cheaper but couldn't wait on the shipping.

Oh, one other thing, someone asked about the "Rock Auto" part number. I did not buy this from Rock Auto or any other 3rd party, but I believe it is made by an after market supplier (based on the pictures I have seen, but not tested):

DORMAN Part # 626210

I have seen this on Rock Auto, Autozone, etc.

Dorman Products Item Number 626-210 is equivalent to Ford/Motorcraft XF2Z-18663-AA

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-50920-626-210.aspx

Amazon.com has it under "Dorman 626-210 Heater Hose Assembly" for $23.91

I'm looking now for the one that runs under the manifold. I'm not sure Dorman makes that one yet.

2001 windstar leaking or spraying coolant from under flange where y tube goes in top of pump is it the o ring or is tube rusted out in top of pump.

I have 01 windstar that developed a coolant leak at the y pine where it goes in water pump found it was rusted almost into down inside pump and broke on off in pump while trying to remove it.Ok my problem is that while trying to remove the broken off piece it went on down inside the pump i can't feel it anywhere i started the van momentarily to see if it was hitting anything and it seems to be ok no noise or anything would you guys just install the new y pipe and take a chance or go ahead and change pump.

Have you tried fishing it out with a magnet? I would not leave the old piece in there...It is just going to keep rusting away and contaminating the antifreeze. Also with time it may become small enough to move into the water pump impeller causing serious damage and a more costly repair! It could also travel thru the engine cooling passages and possibly blocking the flow of coolant and overheating the engine. Don't chance it...not worth it!