Forget the VI - Evo VII Progress

Decided to put the doors open Evo VI (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t85000.html) on hold for a while and have a crack at a slightly unusual Evo VII. Mika Hakkinen was always one of my favourite F1 drivers and this year he tried his hand at rallying. He drove this Lancer Evo VII WRC2 on the 2003 Arctic Lapland Rally.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/989990mika01.jpg

The kind folks at Studio 27 recently released a rather nicely done set of decals for the car so the countdown has begun.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/503243Dcp_1098a.jpg

There are a few modifications needed to convert the Tamiya Evo VII to a WRC2. Most of the changes are to the nose, reshaping the cooling inlets and moving the side duct on the bonnet from the left to the right. Already made a start, still needs straightening out and deepening at the front. Filled in the vent and will need to cut a new one on the other side.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/977772Dcp_1096a.jpg

Obviously the Arctic Rally is a snow rally, but I've found a few pictures (like the one below) with Mika's car sporting what seem to be regular 15" gravel wheels.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/553769mika02.jpg

So to simplify matters I'll just use some Enkei's out of Tamiya's Evo VI kit. Brake discs for the front are from a Safari Subaru kit.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/312036Dcp_1094a.jpg

Quite a bit of Carbon Fibre decaling to do. All these pieces will need to be at least partly covered in some kind of CF or Kevlar.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/749400Dcp_1100a.jpg

If time permits I intend to have a go at building a light pod too. Should be able to modify one out of another kit. Hmmm… I wonder if it has a bare carbon fibre finish… :D

I'll keep you posted!

:) Good luck , nice to see you undertake such an immense challenge in such a short period!
Be sure to keep us updated, as I guess most rally freaks would like to know what's the difference between the step I and II evo!

Ciao Olivier

Looking good. I know this will turn out great.

Cool project! Go Mika!:D

Looking forward to your completion.

cant wait to see it completed~!~!

Keep up the great job!!
I'm taking pleasure in your progress.

I didn't know Hakkinen goes in Rally this year.
The Flying Fin became Sliding Fin...

Phil,
Looking good, I can't wait to see more :)

I was wondering when you would get on this model, being a HUGE Mika fan myself, so I am glad to see it so soon.

BTW, I had a look at the light pod in the 1999 Subaru kit, it looks to be around the right shape if you are up to making the light pod for the nose.

Ray

I will most certainly be keeping an eye on this progress.

Originally posted by Veyron
Cool project! Go Mika!:D

Ditto.
And good luck :D

Love seeing the front valance modifications. Keep it up.

yeah !!!
another thread to follow with attention !!!
Hey phil, don't want to put pressure, but you are right !!! this car will be nice in bmom contest ;)
Good luck, and nice starting work !!!!

I like to read/follow your progress threads, so much te learn from you.
It would be nice if you get this model completed before the contest.

Do keep the progress updates coming. It looks like a fantastic project!

This should be interesting to watch, the progress of.
I like it so far.

Thanks guys, can't wait to get it completed either. I'll try and stay focused to get it finished quickly. In fact why am I wasting my time typing away here? :p

Originally posted by bigfrit
I guess most rally freaks would like to know what's the difference between the step I and II evo!


The external differences are pretty much as I outlined above Oliver. In addition there would be many detail changes to the suspension, engine and the rest, but fortunately they're all covered up. I've also seen a few pictures of a slightly different dash, with a few more switches near the transmission tunnel. Won't get into that unless I can find some interior pics of the event in question. Especially since KP51 RWO was originally a step I car and quite possibly retained the original dash.

Ray, love the slogan 'The Ice Man on Ice'! Would have made a much better title for this thread - perhaps I can pinch it for the finished thead? Please...

Originally posted by freakray
BTW, I had a look at the light pod in the 1999 Subaru kit, it looks to be around the right shape if you are up to making the light pod for the nose.

Dug one out of a Hasegawa Focus kit that will make a nice start. Will check out the Subie one as well.

Been a week since the first update so here is my progress so far. Have removed all the parts off the sprues and am slowly filling in all the ejection marks and removing the mold lines. Most interesting area of work has been the nose modifications and the light pod.

Here is the nose after a quick primer coat of the modified areas. Still needs a lot of work smoothing down and shaping, particularly the two small inlets either side of the main intercooler opening.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/272896Dcp_1104a.JPG

Second shot shows the light pod after first primer coat. Still a lot of blending to do that the primer coat shows up. Was made from a Ford Focus light pod and a lot of putty. Not quite the right shape but reasonably close. Main fault is the two center lights are too far apart. Might have to slice the middle part out. Pod is attatched by two small metal pins.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/791067Dcp_1106a.JPG

I've already decided I won't make the deadline for the Zeljko's April Rally Car competion. Oh well, there is always the next one!

Went ahead and narrowed the light pod. Marked up about 3mm to be removed and sliced it up with this very dangerous looking attatchment.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/873195Dcp_1110a.JPG

This tool spins at up to 30,000 rpm and more melts than cuts through the plastic. The resultant cut is very rough.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/103014Dcp_1112a.jpg

I then cleaned up the edges and drilled locating holes for two metal pins. After that I joined the two pieces together with liquid plastic glue.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/823479Dcp_1114a.jpg

Next I had to change the contour on the bottom of light pod so it fitted snugly to the bonnet. This was achieved by covering the bonnet with plastic wrap. Then applying putty to the pod and locating on the car. When dry I'll remove the pod and clean up the edges. A lot of effort just so I can cover it with carbon fibre a bit further down the track :D

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/792844Dcp_1117a.jpg

Another small mod needed was to replace the roof air scoop with a blanked off version. Not much need for cooling air in the Arctic! This was cut out of a piece of 0.5mm plastic card. Sounds simple but is quite fiddly to get just the right size.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/402327Dcp_1119a.jpg

Your model is coming along very nicely!
Great work!

Sorry for OT, but ive been looking for small drill and this thing to buy. Is there any place to order them online with some bits and add ons?
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/873195Dcp_1110a.JPG

Coming along very nicely, Keep up the good work!

Heres another picture of the car. I know its not the same as the Artic Lapland Rally version, but I thought it might help.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/409161MHWRC.jpg
By the way, great idea I cant wait to see it done.

Truely stunning work! Very inspiring, i'd love to get my teeth into something like this now!:D

looks nice so far

i think this will be a great kit when its done!:D

cutting the light pod is a very brave modeling move. I'd never have the nerve to do that. Very impressive!

Hey Phil,

I can't believe that I only just found this thread - your work so far is absolutely awesome. It is always great to view your work as it is a great inspiration take the plunge and go a step further in terms of realism, detail etc.

BTW, what is happening with the Evo VI build up - I was looking forward to see the "open door look" etc.

Good Luck,
Pots.

Originally posted by Vyacheslav
Sorry for OT, but ive been looking for small drill and this thing to buy. Is there any place to order them online with some bits and add ons?
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/873195Dcp_1110a.JPG

The tool Phil has there looks to be a pneumatic rotary file, unless you have previous experience with one I don't recommend trying one on plastic, I have used them in the auto-tooling industry and they can easily make a mess.
Why don't you rather look into getting a Dremel electric rotary tool, it rotates at lower speeds but can do the same job, aside from the fact that you can select the speeds.

Phil,
Everything is looking good on the Lancer and looks to be prgressing well, to be honest, I don't see anything wrong with the intakes, but I also don't have a variety of photos in front of me to compare it to:rolleyes:
Keep up the astounding work, I look forward to your next addition to this thread.

Ray

This is good stuff!
Everything is looking good from here on.
Wish you luck!

Very nice....i want to do a rally car one of these days....hope to see more progress pics.

-RaceMySS

It's coming along VERY nicley. It looks original and fresh, I've never seen that paintjob on an EVO VII so it's new to me and I love it! :D

Its coming along well.....good luck on this baby!;)

Originally posted by Vyacheslav
Sorry for OT, but ive been looking for small drill and this thing to buy. Is there any place to order them online with some bits and add ons?


Depends what you want to do. If just drilling holes then a pin vise might be the way to go. Tamiya make them, along with a selection of drill bits, should be available from HLJ and R10. Or your local hardware store can probably get you something similar.

The power tool is another kettle of fish. Like Ray said your best bet would be to look for a dremel. What I've got is an electric tool, much like a dentist's drill, it is used for excavating printed circuit boards.

Originally posted by F-40
Heres another picture of the car. I know its not the same as the Artic Lapland Rally version, but I thought it might help.

By the way, great idea I cant wait to see it done.

Thanks for the picture F-40 yes the car I'm building is a bit different to the one in this pic, still a WRC2.

Please feel free to pass on any Arctic Rally Evo VII pictures everyone. Got a few (thanks Ray!) but am always happy to find more. Particularly high res ones.

Originally posted by potsie
Hey Phil,

I can't believe that I only just found this thread - your work so far is absolutely awesome. It is always great to view your work as it is a great inspiration take the plunge and go a step further in terms of realism, detail etc.

BTW, what is happening with the Evo VI build up - I was looking forward to see the "open door look" etc.

Good Luck,
Pots.

Thanks Pots, the Evo VI is still lurking on my shelf, will return to it some time, along with all the other half begun projects I have. For some reason I have a real problem finishing Mitsubishi kits. That's why I've decided to do the Evo VII - it's practically stock compared to the others.

Originally posted by freakray


Phil,
Everything is looking good on the Lancer and looks to be prgressing well, to be honest, I don't see anything wrong with the intakes, but I also don't have a variety of photos in front of me to compare it to:rolleyes:
Keep up the astounding work, I look forward to your next addition to this thread.

Ray

Ray,
They're still not clean enough and the inside, top and bottom edges need to be curved more. The front vents are difficult to see on photos. Mitsubishi seem to be disguising them!

No joke, after modifying the front end on the WRC2 they painted all the black bits in the same place as the vents on the original WRC. Perhaps they want to keep it looking like the road car as much as possible. Even though the WRC is not based upon the Evo VII, rather the garden variety Lancer, as per WRC rules.

Originally posted by huudo
cutting the light pod is a very brave modeling move. I'd never have the nerve to do that. Very impressive!

Brave? It's just a light pod!

Wouldn't be silly enough to cut up anything major, like doors and bonnets. Oh hang on... there was that Evo VI wasn't there? :p

Thanks for the encouragement everybody. Will report back with progress next week!

Great work Phil, but that's what we expect from you:)

You can find quite a few pictures here: http://www.arcticrally.fi/galleria/2003/mika/galleria.php

And here's one too:
http://www.ralli.net/kuvat/2003/arctic03y_15.jpg

HTH

-Mikko

Where did Mika finish in the rally?

Mika was 29th in final results, 20min 2sec from the winner. That wasn't too high considering that he was driving a WRC as even some Honda Civics and Opel Astras from FWD categories were faster than him. But it was his first rally ever I believe.

BTW Another Finnish F1 driver JJ Lehto finished 15th. He was driving a Mitsubishi Carisma GT.

-Mikko

Thanks for the compliments and link Mikko, much appreciated. Reveals several interesting details.

There was a third ex-F1 driver in the field too, namely Keke Rosberg in a Group N Evo VII, he finished 45th.

Aparently Mika said he started off slow on the first day then accelarated as he gained confience. He had to stop and change a wheel at one point, and fell way down the leader board. He recovered to 29th, 12th in class. Not an earth shattering debut by any means. I wonder if he will do any more events?

Been a long time since the last update, and having to work next weekend may be a while till the next one :(. Anyway here is my meagre progress thus far.

Had a few decal problems, I found out the real car has a MITSUBISHI logo underneath the rear wing, S27 only provide one for the top, so I've had to order a second sheet for just the one decal! Second some of the scripts are printed in the same silver as the flashes down the sides, on the bonnet etc. Not a problem when they go over red areas, but some of them are supposed to be placed on the silver. Being the same colour they most likely will disappear into the background! Don’t know quite how to solve this yet, having a second sheet to experiment with should help :D

I raised the suspension by gluing two pieces of 1mm card into each upright recess. Easiest way to raise ride height I've ever tried. Here is the front...
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/415871Dcp_1150a.JPG
...and the rear.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/384321Dcp_1151a.JPG
Result is thus:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/438391Dcp_1137a.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/435358Dcp_1141a.jpg

A few pieces are supposed to be painted red or blue (an aid in identifying handed suspension components). Rather than use just straight red and blue, I tried to achieve an anodised finish. To that end I sprayed them silver Leaf followed by Mica Red or Blue. This metallic finish is correct for some components like the seat rails, not so sure about the suspension bits - but it looks better to me :cool:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/845385Dcp_1144a.JPG

Lastly a few pieces painted gloss black prior to Alclad-ing. Will also use Alclad for the reflectors on the light pod, but since they will be chromed they will need an enamel base, not lacquer like all these parts.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/121399Dcp_1152a.JPG
Back with more soon (I hope).

I like the anodized like suspension, I dod that fro some of my parts too exept I use flat aluminum and apply clear red/blue over it. you get a better effect than me though. :)

I know I'm not gonna be the only one to say this but I think you need another coat or primer.

Looks very cool! Love the anodised look. I know it will be another jaw-dropper, so I can't wait! ;)

Originally posted by integra818
I know I'm not gonna be the only one to say this but I think you need another coat or primer.

I think you might be right ;)
Still trying to get the body mods right. Most of the car only has a very thin layer of primer to check for irregularities. When everything is spot on (or a close as I can manage) then I'll give it a proper coat of primer, a white base, then Red. Decals will be applied the several coats of clear lacquer to finish off.

Still wondering what the right shade of red is. Planning to use TS-49 Bright Red but wondering if a slightly darker shade may better? Perhaps Italian Red?

everything is looking wonderful

i sooo want to watch WRC live..............

o yea.... ure model is looking good!!.............going down to the smallest detail

If you were a professor of Modelology, I'd take your WRC class for sure!! :D

hey rallyraider... where do you get your carbonfiber decals? aretheyin large sheets? are they anygood? well..i was just wondering because its hard for me to find carbonfiber decals. i usually get mines in the aioshima gt wing kits but they come in small sheet. could you tell me where i could get it? thanks man:D

Holy Cannoli!
That's an extremely nice way to raise suspentions, how come I hadn't thought of that !
Thanks a lot on the tips (the anodised look looks fabulous!)

olivier

......interesting work and mad ideas ,already make me happy in the finished model


Kurtl

http://www.kb-modellbau.at.tf

Wow, you really want this to be an exact replica! Great work so far. Can't wait to see it finished.

Originally posted by 180SxDEwaYz
hey rallyraider... where do you get your carbonfiber decals? aretheyin large sheets? are they anygood? well..i was just wondering because its hard for me to find carbonfiber decals. i usually get mines in the aioshima gt wing kits but they come in small sheet. could you tell me where i could get it? thanks man:D

I mainly use F1 Specialties and Scale Motorsport Carbon Fibre and Kevlar decals. Yes they do come in largish sheets, about 12 x 18 centimeters. They can be ordered directly from their respective web sites:
F1 Specialties (http://www.f1specialties.com)
Scale Motorsport (http://www.scalemotorsport.com)

Plus online stores like TNT Hobbies in the US, Modelcrafts and Hobbies in New Zealand, MediaMix Hobby in Singapore and Grand Prix Miniatures Australia.

There are plenty more manufacturers besides - Renaissance, Museum Collection and I think even Fly On The Wall makes some in his SAS range.

Good luck finding and using them! There is some more info on carbon fibre decals in my Peugeot 206 progress thread (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t76581.html).

Small update to let everybody know progress is slowly being made. I'm finally happy with the shape of the front end and light pod so will be able to continue painting them soon.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/604374Dcp_1166a.jpg

Also have been mucking about with detail painting, including the exhaust. Looks a little grainy in these pictures (thanks to the flash) and perhaps a bit too colourful, but I'm quite happy with the result.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/585462Dcp_1161a.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/622025Dcp_1163a.jpg

nice nice nice nice !

did you spray clear colors to achive that look or just fine mists ?

Can't wait to see the first layers of paint coming on it. Light pod looks good but when painted probably perfect!

Nice exhaust too! Keep us updated Phil.

good luck with it!!

:bloated:

Originally posted by Mainomega
nice nice nice nice !

did you spray clear colors to achive that look or just fine mists ?

Used the technique on the Tamiya website. First painted the exhaust titanium gold, then bands of clear blue and orange, followed by some smoke, all Tamiya enamels. Need to get a better airbrush to have more control over the colours. The final result above looked a bit over the top to me so I've since given it a bit of a polish up with some graphite dust. The graphite toned down the colours and resulted in a deep, shiny, almost transparent look.

wow, nice exhaust paint !!!!

Thanks Seb, although looks a bit too much like a motorbike exhaust in those pics.

BTW sorry to take so long getting the Renaissance 306 pics, been very busy lately. Will get them to you this weekend, I promise.