Starting the LS1 Swap

From what I have planned out so far the swap should be pretty simple...

The new motor is on the way!
It's a 2004 corvette LS1

Transmission: existing TR3550 with bellhousing adapter from Quick Time($500)
Motormounts: simple modified stock 4.6L mounts
the Ls1 is about 4" smaller all the way around and should fit easily in the same location as the 4.6L or 5.0
exhaust: 5.0 shorty headers with an LS1 flange, from the measurements I've taken it should fit around the steering arm.


Stand alone ECU and Harness($900)

A nice side by side comparison
http://www.vorshlag.com/pictures/motor-4.6-4V-004.jpg

The hardest part of the swap is fitting the oil pan over the swat mount and front subframe!

There is less than 1/4" of clearance so you'll need to use a low profile oil pan like the Moroso 20140 Steel LS1 Camaro
http://app.infopia.com/img/image/fp/VPID/4732543/img-2/img.jpg

SNUG fit
http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=105417&g2_serialNumber=2

Way cool! I'm very interested in the swap. In my book this is the best bang for the buck when you go away from the 5.0 or 4.6 motor. I heard that the guys at Penske who are running the GT's for promotion lapping events have also done the swap to the LS motor. I tried to get contact info and such, but no luck.

What other "goodies" are you installing on the motor? What's your desired torque/hp numbers? I gather that since you're using a stand alone ECU and harness, you are you staying EFI. Are you going with a FAST intake system?

I came across a set of shorty LSX headers at Jegs or Summit. They looked to be similar to the 5.0 shorty hearders. I think they were Headman units.

Please continue to post lessons learned and specical parts used in the conversion. I'm all ears to learn as much as possible from your experience. Hope the conversion is straight forward.

Will do.

I am shooting for 400-450rwhp a mild setup for that motor

Looking at Comp cams XER cam, 918 springs with CC roller lifters, Ls6 243 heads and a custom tune, accusump setup...

Thats just y initial thoughts

I'll keep everyone posted.

Very nice. With the LS6 heads and Comp cam you'll make those power numbers easy.

Very nice. With the LS6 heads and Comp cam you'll make those power numbers easy.

Exactly! for probably less that what some have spent getting up to that HP range I can get the same HP, PLUS sell the current 4.6L in the car now and probably come close to breaking even.

It'll take a big cam to make 450 rwhp on stock 243s... ported ones... no problem.

Don't waste your money on a FAST manifold... if your LS1 is truly a 2000, then get an LS6 manifold for it and do the LS6 PCV conversion and coolant pipe swap. If you have a 2001+ LS1 it allready has a LS6 block and manifold.

Pre 2001 motors have weaker rod bolts and are setup for 6500 rpm max sustained. In 2001 they upgraded the rod bolts w/ sleeves and rated the motors at 6900 rpms sustained.

The shorty headers will hurt you a bit.... these motors... esp. w/ H/C work like longtubes.

If you want a good budget build get some ported 243 heads and a 230/240ish cam. My G5-X2 is 232/240 .595/.608 on a 114 LSA.

Go with GM LS7 lifters, comp hardened pushrods, LS2 or LS3 timing chain, LS6 ported oil pump, etc. As for rockers... either send your stockers to harland sharp and have the needle bearings replaced w/ trunions or spend the money for something like a yella terra ultralight full roller rocker (that's what I have). The stockers are great pieces, but they're known to puke needle bearings. The early harland sharp roller rockers and early yella terra were heavier than oem over the valve tip and caused high RPM losses. A couple of years ago YT revised their design so you get a fully rollerized rocker w/o the weight penalty.

PM me if you ahve any questions etc.

Most good vendors will sell you a full cam kit w/ the cam, springs, seats, retainers, valve seals, pushrods, etc. Scoggins-Dickey sells a cam install kit w/ all the gaskets you need and a new crank bolt.

www.ls1howto.com (http://www.ls1howto.com) is your best friend!

so a bit of an update.the LS1 motor I originally purchased apparently had some sort of issue and the guy was making all sorts of excuses, so I got a refund on it.

the good news, I found and bought a 2004 Corvette motor with 22k(previous motor had 86k) miles for just a few hundred dollars more!!! and I am working o getting it delivered up from Daytona, FL(see other post if you live in FL)

The 2004 LS1 should be a better overall platform form what I have read.

Thanks for the info Brian, sounds along the lines with what I was thinking.

You didn't have to fly cut your pistons or anything when you did the cam/springs, etc I assume?

Thanks for posting the details on your swap. An LS motor was the way I was thinking about going when I first decided to buy a tube frame GT car.

Good call on the '04 motor. You have an LS6 block now (cylinder breathing passages), better rod bolts, LS6 intake manifold, and 241 heads (the best LS1 head, just under LS6 heads which are 243s.

With that motor left alone w/ a moderate cam and headers you can make 400-410 rwhp w/o touching anything.

No need to flycut unless you go huge on the cam. The LGM G5-X3 is a 234/242 .600/.610 on a 114 or a 112 LSA. That's about as big as you can go w/o flycuttting. You can fit their G5-X4 in there, but the PV clearance is so close that one missed shift will have things touching. I've helped a buddy put one in and it's possible w/o flycutting, but he ended up pulling his heads and flycutting.

Lou Gilotti Motorsports has been road racing for years and is now campaigning a new GT2 corvette. I'd get a G5-X3 on a 112 LSA for your application and some good headers and call it a day. You really don't need to replace the lifters so no need to pull the heads.

If you want to really go through it you can pull the heads and clean it all up and put in fresh lifters. OEM LS7 lifters are the basic lifters of choice for most now... the oem stuff from GM is very good. The parts off the top of my head...

*G5-X3 112 cam kit (cam, double springs, seats, retainers, valve seals, comp hardened pushrods)
*Ported LS6 oil pump, or GM LS4 high volume pump, or Melling high volum pump
*GM LS3 or LS2 timing chain (much beefier than the LS1/LS6 chain.... I have pics if you want) only $35... no real need for a high dollar cloyes or a double roller etc.
*Harland Sharp modified stock rokers or Yella Terra ultralights.
*LPE (lingenfelter) oil cooler adapter block to tie in your oil cooler

That'd get you 410ish rwhp in a C5 Corvette... I have pics of most all of this if you want any. Again www.ls1howto.com (http://www.ls1howto.com) has a fantastic how-to.

Read up closely on crank bolt installation. I went with an ATI superdamper for my cam swap.... it's not cheap, but it's one of the best dampers on the market which is important for a road race motor.

So for the timing gear its not worth it to go with something like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMP-CAMS-LS1-LS2-LS6-BILLET-ADJ-TIMING-CHAIN-7153_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116 QQitemZ360094449866QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPar tsQ5fAccessories

only a little more, but is it worth it?

So for the timing gear its not worth it to go with something like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMP-CAMS-LS1-LS2-LS6-BILLET-ADJ-TIMING-CHAIN-7153_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116 QQitemZ360094449866QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPar tsQ5fAccessories

only a little more, but is it worth it?
Depends... do you plan on pulling the heads so you can degree the cam? The stock timing set isn't adjustable so you just isntall the cam "dot to dot" meaning you line up the dot's on the cam gear w/ the dots on the crank gear and go from there. The cam gear only installs on the cam one way. Your basically trusting that the cam was ground correctly and 99.99% of the time they are... at least from a reputable vendor.

Plus... the lower timing gear is pressed on and I'm not quite sure how you get it off... I believe it requires a special GM tool.

All I did was upgrade to a new LS2 chain to replace my LS6 chain, upgraded to an ATI 10% underdrive superdamper, and went to town. LG told me they degreed the first few cams they got from comp years ago, found them to be perfect, and have been installing them dot to dot ever since.

LS2 Chain has noticably beefier links than the LS6 chain I removed
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/cobra4b/Cam%20Install/P1010010.jpg

See "dot to dot"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/cobra4b/Cam%20Install/P1010012.jpg

ATI vs. stock shitty damper
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/cobra4b/Cam%20Install/P1010023.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/cobra4b/Cam%20Install/P1010025.jpg

LS4 high volume oil pump
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/cobra4b/Cam%20Install/P1010064.jpg

The cheapest way for you to achieve your power goals would be to leave the heads on the motor alone... install a ported LS6 oil pump (or a melling or LS4), LS2 (LS3 now) timing chain, and a G5-X3 cam on a 112 lsa from LGm w/ their cam kit, and the Scoggins Dickey cam install kit (gaskets etc.) from SDPC (scoggins dickey performance center).... then follow LS1howto.com and have fun! Oh... get a new balanceer... many go with 25% underdrive pulleys, but ATI says they cannot achieve their strict dampening requirements so they limit theirs to 10%. I'd rather have my crank damper working than more underdrive. The cam kit comes w/ the valvetrain upgrades etc.

Oh... pay very close attention to the part about the oil pickup o-ring and how to install it. You do it wrong and you'll have no oil pressure and have to do it all over again.

some good very detailed dimensions. I am also currently looking for a crap ls1 block to use to mock up custom headers and motor mounts.http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=105608&g2_serialNumber=1

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=105612&g2_serialNumber=2


QuickTime Bellhousing Spec's

http://www.quicktimeinc.com/images/RM-6037.jpg
RM-6037 - LS-1 Bellhousing to Ford TKO 500-600/TR3550/T5 Mustang Transmission - NEW!

* Height = 6.925
* Trans. Bore Ø = Universal 4.850/4.910
* Engine = Chevy LS-1, LS-2, LS-3, LS-6, LS-7, LS-9
* Trans. = Ford TKO 500-600, TR3550, T5 Mustang
* Clutch Ø = 11"
* Flywheel = 168 tooth or 153 tooth
* Weight = 22#
* Full engine plate, trani ball and grade 8 bolts included

I would agree with Brian's recommendations with one change. Get the C5R timing chain from Katec. You can keep the stock gears and definitely go with the ATI superdamper. I had a whole series of engines in my vette and ended up with a C5R 427 fully blueprinted (530 RWHP). My double roller timing chain started coming apart (pieces on the magnetic plug) and my shop recommeded the LS2 chain because it was stronger. Long story but three rebuilds later I figured out that the LS2 chains were the weak link - literally. Several other vette guys in Texas also had a rash of broken/streched timng gear. Jayson at Katech told me what they use and I decided to simply copy that. Many of the local guys did the same and not another failure. The chain and the damper seem to be the right combination for road race engines. The drag race guys don't seem to have the same problems. My :2cents: .

^ Ahhh yes.... you had a heck of a time w/ the chains... no pun intended :) YMMV, but I've had no issues w/ my stock LS6 chain for 70,000 miles and lots of HPDE use, then the LS2 chain and 4 hpdes w/ 430+ horse.

i'll go C5R its a little more, but what is an extra $80 for some peace of mind! I ordered accusump today! I'll use it on the current 4.6 motor until I do the swap, another bit of insurance!

Be careful... there are some companies out there selling "C5R" chains that aren't. If you want 100% assurance then buy it from Katech. Tell them your a Corvetteforum member, because I saw a post stating that they have an "economic stimulus" sale right now 20% off all parts, engines, labor etc.

i saw that, I'll be ordering from Katech THANKS!

Look what the cat dragged up to my door mat!!

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=105786&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=105782&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=105789&g2_serialNumber=2


Some new info. Looks like the alternator will have to be relocated to the passenger side. It sticks out about 17" from the center of the block, and we only have about 14-15" from center otherwise the frame near the shock mounts gets in the way. So I'll have to machine a relocation bracket. they sell some, but $400 seems absurd for a hunk of aluminum!

What did that car come out of? Looks like Corvette accessories setup, but I've never seen a yellow oil cap on any Corvette.

FYI F-bodys and some other cars have a different accessories setup w/ the alternator in another spot... ther's like 3 different setups. Many people doing swaps have to use something other than the corvette accessories setup.

What did that car come out of? Looks like Corvette accessories setup, but I've never seen a yellow oil cap on any Corvette.

FYI F-bodys and some other cars have a different accessories setup w/ the alternator in another spot... ther's like 3 different setups. Many people doing swaps have to use something other than the corvette accessories setup.
It's supposed to be from a 2004 corvette

How does one truly validate -- can you run the casting numbers or something like that?

Well.... it's drive by wire so ti's from a Corvette... plus it's got all the accessories in the correct spot. You can look at the casting number on the front of the head on the passenger side and see which head it has on it. They should be 241s which denotes a 2001+ LS1 head. The LS6 heads are 243 castings.

Wait a minute... that's not a Corvette oil pan. C5s use a winged pan. The C6 LS2 changed the pan to a more "normal" pan.

C5 Pan... they're 2 part pans.

http://www.camarotech.com/images/LS_Corvette_oil_pan.jpg

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=105792&g2_serialNumber=2
it has a 2 part winged pan, and 241 heads I did check that when i picked it up...


Wait a minute... that's not a Corvette oil pan. C5s use a winged pan. The C6 LS2 changed the pan to a more "normal" pan.

C5 Pan... they're 2 part pans.

it has a 2 part winged pan, and 241 heads I did check that when i picked it up...



http://www.camarotech.com/images/LS_Corvette_oil_pan.jpg

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=105891&g2_serialNumber=2

Started prepping the motor, I will need to relocate the ALternator to the passenger side. easy cheap fix.

Well then I guess you just got a funky oil cap :D

Just a short update on this... I'm making some progress on all the parts I need.

So far I have

Engine is ready
clutch, PP, flywheel and all clutch hydraulics figured out.
motor mounts are done
Quicktime bellhousing is "in"
accusump is ready to go
oil pump, oil cooler/filter relocation kit


really the last few things i need to get before I start the actual swap is the Tremec 3550 26 spline input shaft kit, ECU/wiring harness, and a few adapters for the fuel system. And then the last major piece will be the exhaust system, I'll either do custom long tube headers or modify some existing short tube headers!

anyway, just an update to let you know the project is not dead.

Pics!

Pics!

Not a ton of interesting stuff to look at, mostly just a pile of parts and a lot of planning!

it's the little stuff that takes a lot of time figuring out, like which throwout bearing to use, which clutch arm, the actual bolting in of the engine should go pretty quick once i get all the other crap figured out.

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106230&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106209&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106215&g2_serialNumber=2

Here is a little information about swapping the 3550 over to a GM version with a 26 spline input shaft of the proper length.

So here is what i was able to gather....

First the differences

Tremec PN: 5008 (Ford)
Input Shaft Length: 7.2"
Bearing Retainer Diameter: 4.85"

Tremec PN: 5009 (Chevy)
Input Shaft Length: 6.7"
Bearing Retainer Diameter: 4.68"


You can buy and swap out the input shafts and convert it to a GM version fairly easily. I have spoken to Richard at Keisler and they sell a full conversion kit for @ $250

for anyone who wants to know here is the "basic install directions" it's a pretty easy swap for the input shaft

The 26 spline inputs are very specific as to what transmission it is going in. The teeth count on the base of the input is specific in that it has to match the counter shaft correctly in order to work.

They also come in standard length of 7.250" or the short length which is 6.5". The length is determined by the depth of the bell housing. The small block Fords all used the deep 6.9" bell which requires the 7.250" input shaft. Big block Fords had 2 different depth bell housings, a 6.5" deep and a 6.2" deep. Both of those would require the short input shaft.

When changing the input it is best to stand the transmission up so that the input is facing skyward. Renove the 4 bolts that hold the front retainer to the main case and GENTLY pull up on the input shaft. You must be EXTREMELY careful as there are 17 loose needle bearings at the base of the input. Because they are not caged, they can drop into the case itself and then you have big problems.

The transmission are set by the factory for end play on the input. The 3550's and TKO's are set to between .000 -.004 end play. It is measured by using a dial indicator mounted to the front of the case and the probe of the indicator resting on the tip of the input, then turning the input shaft, measure the runout. When removing the front retainer, the bearing race as well as the input shaft shims will come out. You must install the race along with however many shims come out, back into the retainer when you swap the input shaft.

This applies to the TKO500 and TKO600 as well.

a couple of update pics... here is the start of my converted ford motor mounts...

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106263&g2_serialNumber=2

Also,i am going to convert over to an internal hydraulic TO bearing/slave because of the tight clearances.

Quartermaster, Keisler, and Mcloed all sell kits to convert to an internal TO bearing/slave setup. Ranging from $150 to $600. i will likely go with the Quartermaster setup for @ $220


Pic of the tight tolerances

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106257&g2_serialNumber=2

Mine is a little extra tight because it looks like one of my existing motor mounts is sagging and the engine is sitting offcenter

Also if anyone needs them the PN# for the transmission in my car are
TR3550 4 AGIDA29
TCET1376 0035
This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

Here's a couple of ideas. If I were me, I wouldn't use a stock rubber mount. They are junk. I bought 2 brand new ones and they failed after 1 event.

I went to a clutch cable that has a fire wall adjuster. There is no threaded rod on the clutch arm end of the cable to get in the way. When a hydraulic TOB fails, you won't be chaning it at the track. A cable is an easy fix and they are inexpensive enough to have a spare.

Thanks for posting your project. One of my original plans was to go with an LSx engine. I may still depending on how yours ends up.:smile:

Here's a couple of ideas. If I were me, I wouldn't use a stock rubber mount. They are junk. I bought 2 brand new ones and they failed after 1 event.

I went to a clutch cable that has a fire wall adjuster. There is no threaded rod on the clutch arm end of the cable to get in the way. When a hydraulic TOB fails, you won't be chaning it at the track. A cable is an easy fix and they are inexpensive enough to have a spare.

Thanks for posting your project. One of my original plans was to go with an LSx engine. I may still depending on how yours ends up.:smile:

Thanks for the post and suggestions. I thought about keeping the clutch cable, but the bellhousing I have it setup for a push style and not pull style clucth lever and there isnt room for either one, so I was forced to go to an internal slave/TO combo.

I'm getting very close to having the last few pieces of the puzzle solved and then I can start

ohh and as for the stock motor mounts... I knwo they are crap, but i wanted to get everything test fit and lined up properly before buying and chopping up a more expensive set!

[/quote]Also,i am going to convert over to an internal hydraulic TO bearing/slave because of the tight clearances. Mine is a little extra tight because it looks like one of my existing motor mounts is sagging and the engine is sitting offcenter[/quote]


Eric, the 5.0 installation is not a great deal better than what your pic shows regards clutch fork to frame clearance but does not present any real problems that I have struck as yet.

Something to look out for with hydraulic clutch release bearings is the radius of the bearing contact area with the pressure plate fingers. I have had probs with this before when using a Tilton hydraulic bearing. Go for one that has a more generous radius as I had binding problems when the clutch was operated without the engine running. Not a biggie in a race car but annoying.

Also,i am going to convert over to an internal hydraulic TO bearing/slave because of the tight clearances. Mine is a little extra tight because it looks like one of my existing motor mounts is sagging and the engine is sitting offcenter[/quote]


Eric, the 5.0 installation is not a great deal better than what your pic shows regards clutch fork to frame clearance but does not present any real problems that I have struck as yet.

Something to look out for with hydraulic clutch release bearings is the radius of the bearing contact area with the pressure plate fingers. I have had probs with this before when using a Tilton hydraulic bearing. Go for one that has a more generous radius as I had binding problems when the clutch was operated without the engine running. Not a biggie in a race car but annoying.[/quote]

Thanks Kel, if the LS1 setup fit the same way I would have gone that route, but with the Quicktime Bellhousing the clutch lever sits up about 3 inches and back another 3"'s which would interfere with the frame.

eric1h Do you have a part number or webpage for the internal TO bearing/slave setup from any of the companies? I have seen your using the quicktime bellhousing which im currently in the process of ordering.

eric1h Do you have a part number or webpage for the internal TO bearing/slave setup from any of the companies? I have seen your using the quicktime bellhousing which im currently in the process of ordering.

I used a wilwood 7/8" master cylinder available from summitracing or jegs.com


the internal TO bearing/slave
I got it here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290297530418&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AEOIBSAA%3AUS%3A11&viewitem=

but you can get it all over. If youre using the QuarterMaster 8.5" clutch setup for your existing engine then you may need a different TO bearing.

Are you doing an LS1 swap also?

FYI..the Mcleod internal TO works great with the factory panoz master cylinder and has an adjustable sleeve (its a threaded billet collar) rather then shims. Makes installation much easier. I think its more expensive though.

FYI..the Mcleod internal TO works great with the factory panoz master cylinder and has an adjustable sleeve (its a threaded billet collar) rather then shims. Makes installation much easier. I think its more expensive though.


Thanks for the tip, I thought hard about the Mcloed, and if need be I can always change if the Quarter Master doesn't work.
BTW, where the pics of the vinyl? ;-)

BTW, where the pics of the vinyl? ;-)

most of its still rolled up. The numbers went on and a few other misc. items. Fara had class stickers for us. So we used about half of them.

Brian, do you have any picks of your clutch pedal and Master cylinder setup? Which clutch pedal did you use? the "stock setup" is set for a pull style so a new pedal and remounting of the master would be needed, interested to see how you routed yours, Thanks!

brian, do you have any picks of your clutch pedal and master cylinder setup? Which clutch pedal did you use? The "stock setup" is set for a pull style so a new pedal and remounting of the master would be needed, interested to see how you routed yours, thanks!

i changed nothing.....the gts comes with a master cyl. And slave cyl. All i did was remove the slave, install a barrel connector (male to male extender) and attached the same line to the mcleod internal throw out......done! I dont have pics of the to, if you need the stock gts setup i can take some pics and post for you.

i changed nothing.....the gts comes with a master cyl. And slave cyl. All i did was remove the slave, install a barrel connector (male to male extender) and attached the same line to the mcleod internal throw out......done! I dont have pics of the to, if you need the stock gts setup i can take some pics and post for you.


But isnt the GTS stock clutch a pull setup like the cable setup?


Shoot me a few pics if you can.... the pedals, and firewall(how the master mounts if you get a chance! thanks!


BTW. I decided to convert the LS1 over to a carb setup! Edlebrock makes a NICE setup putting out @ 410whp with a MILD cam

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt222/panozracing/IMG_7864.jpg

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt222/panozracing/IMG_7866.jpg

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt222/panozracing/IMG_7872.jpg

I have never really looked at this but it looks as though I have a willwood "cage/mounting device" that holds 3 master cylinders, linkage, brake bias adjuster and pedals. I would order this from Panoz and be done with it. Let me know if I can post any other pics. Its hard to take these pictures up under the dash.

Hello guys,

I recently completed an LS swap. Most of it was easier than expected. I have some simple answers to some of the complicated issues and questions, such as clutch/bearings, headers and alternator location. I am glad to help where I can, but I am not a big forum guy. Give me a call if I can help.

Mike
504-472-0400
mikepoupartmotorsports.com

Hello guys,

I recently completed an LS swap. Most of it was easier than expected. I have some simple answers to some of the complicated issues and questions, such as clutch/bearings, headers and alternator location. I am glad to help where I can, but I am not a big forum guy. Give me a call if I can help.

Mike
504-472-0400
mikepoupartmotorsports.com

AWESOME! would love to hear about it, I'll tr to call you next week.


Here are a few updated pics

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106421&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106406&g2_serialNumber=2

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt222/panozracing/IMG_7864.jpg

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt222/panozracing/IMG_7866.jpg

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt222/panozracing/IMG_7872.jpg

I have never really looked at this but it looks as though I have a willwood "cage/mounting device" that holds 3 master cylinders, linkage, brake bias adjuster and pedals. I would order this from Panoz and be done with it. Let me know if I can post any other pics. Its hard to take these pictures up under the dash.


Ok cool, looks like i have the same cage setup! so the conversion is a snap!

Awesome :) Yeah a very very very mild cam will make 410 rwhp w/ stock LS6 heads (243s). You can make nearly 440 rwhp cam only, and 500-510 w/ a max effort 346.

Awesome :) Yeah a very very very mild cam will make 410 rwhp w/ stock LS6 heads (243s). You can make nearly 440 rwhp cam only, and 500-510 w/ a max effort 346.

FYI...we have run 500 RWHP/TQ with BIG slicks and we honestly feel that is TOO much for the stock GTS frame. The twist that was photographed was scary. 4-6" of tire lift when you got on the throttle at the apex. Also we snapped spindles, sheared brembo hat to hub bolts, destroyed all the 4 bars etc.

We went to about 450 RWHP and its better....sticking to that number unless we beef up the frame. Our car is NOT a GT1 frame. Have you ever seen those frames...SERIOUS METAL.

I have thought many times that we are going way faster than the car might have been designed for. I dont want to crash and find out the hard way!

Eric did you ever figure out what exhaust you're going with? FYI in 2001 all LSXs got the LS6 exhaust manifolds which should be everybit as good as a shorty.

Eric did you ever figure out what exhaust you're going with? FYI in 2001 all LSXs got the LS6 exhaust manifolds which should be everybit as good as a shorty.

No, not yet, but I will most likely be doing a custom header setup. I ordered a DIY header kit, and will either make them myself or have my exhaust guy fab them up.

I may alos try to get a hold of a set of track headers and see if they clear the steering shaft for a temp solution.....

Game on now!
http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106445&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106451&g2_serialNumber=2

Who is around next weekend and wants to help? :-D I may take a friday/sat and try to get the motor out and the new one in!


The swap has officially started!
http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106427&g2_serialNumber=2



8 bolts or less holding the motor in the car now!

And converting over to a manual steering rack should shave another 30-40lbs off of the car and free up 5-10hp

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106439&g2_serialNumber=2


When its all done, i'm guessing I'll weigh in at @ 2600lbs and should put out initially 390ish to the wheels..... Once i get the motor running I'll bump up the cam and valvetrain and shoot for @ 430-440whp


Some Misc pics....

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106457&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106454&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106433&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106430&g2_serialNumber=2

http://www.extremespeedonline.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=106436&g2_serialNumber=2

Sweet... I don't know much about carbing a LS1. Does the manifold come with provisions to mount that ingnition control box or did you fab that? What gives that box the proper input signal? Is it crank or cam position that tells it what's going on?

Interesting that you're going w/ an accusump... I guess it's just cheap insurance. I've always overfilled my LS6 by 1 quart on track w/o any issues ever.

Are you building your car around any class or just to play with it? Juat asking if you're shooting for any specific power/weight setup.

I'm particularly interested in the manual steering conversion... what kit/parts are you using. Please report on the feel/effort etc. I'm a huge fan of simple. I'd love to go to manual steering, ditch the big coolant reservior on the radiator, and ditch the cooling fan.

Sweet... I don't know much about carbing a LS1. Does the manifold come with provisions to mount that ingnition control box or did you fab that? What gives that box the proper input signal? Is it crank or cam position that tells it what's going on?

Interesting that you're going w/ an accusump... I guess it's just cheap insurance. I've always overfilled my LS6 by 1 quart on track w/o any issues ever.

Are you building your car around any class or just to play with it? Juat asking if you're shooting for any specific power/weight setup.

I'm particularly interested in the manual steering conversion... what kit/parts are you using. Please report on the feel/effort etc. I'm a huge fan of simple. I'd love to go to manual steering, ditch the big coolant reservior on the radiator, and ditch the cooling fan.


The manifold has the provisions to install the MSD box. It gets its signal from the stock crank AND cam sensors, it also has provisions for vaccum advance and MAF, pretty cool and VERY simple setup, literally just a few wires!

As for the accusump, I bought it for the 4.6L but figured I would use it with the LS1, might as well.

I'll post up a separate thread about the manual rack when I am all done with it.

I am hoping to have this back on track by the June CMP event!

Eric -- looks pretty damn sweet. Seems to be coming along quite well.

has anyone done any corner balancing with these lighter engines? have you been able to get the car evan at all 4 corners with the driver?

Great question Brian, I would assume because we are pretty much a "mid-engine" that the lighter engine wouldn't affect it too horribly. But I'm about to find out.