fan resistor block

does anyone know where the fan resistor block is located on a 95 metro, on the older one its right behind the glove box. fan only blows on medium and high so doubt its the switch

Fan Resistor is mounted on the fan case, behind the glovebox. FSM says you have to remove the PCM to get to it. Sounds as if it's in the same place, they just relocated the computer to be in the way.

I'll bet it's the switch though, that's exactly how they go most of the time. Low speed quits, medium speed stops a couple of months later, then it falls apart completely and you can't get anything.

Last winter, my Heater Fan quit working and I had to tear into it.

Had to buy a new Heater Fan Motor from Schucks - brushes and Commutator worn out

Took pictures of everything.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t880868.html

I should have been a gynecologist....would be more interesting pictures....

Hope this helps you.

DoctorBill

hi,
Woodie has answered very precisely.You can do that experiment.

does anyone know where the fan resistor block is located on a 95 metro, on the older one its right behind the glove box. fan only blows on medium and high so doubt its the switch

tested it, switch is fine so will get another resistor block out of a 95 and replace it.

i have been having this same problem, my question is can i get this part new from a store? or perhaps i can replace the resistive coils on the one that is in the car already with some actual resistors?

Unless you can find 20 to 40 watt resistors somewhere (?) that will dissipate a
lot of HEAT, no....

The Heater Fuse is 20 amps. Assuming they doubled what amps the heater will
pull, that is around 10 amps load. 12 volts x 10 amps = 120 watts.

The resistors act as current limiters and as such get hot themselves.
At low speed, the motor may pull even more amps....(?)

Those coils get quite hot (Red Hot?)...as can be seen by the fact that they look burned.
The heater box is designed to blow air over those coils to take the heat away.

If you could find some "Nichrome" wire of varying thicknesses, you could use a
Ohm meter (VOM) to cut the wire to the appropriate resistance (Length) in OHMs ,
wind a coil into the shape as you find them on the Heater Resistor Block,
and then high temp solder them into place on the Block.

My Heater Resistor Block looks like this (still functional).

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/8289/heaterresistorunitvh2.jpg

Something that might work is the wire out of old toasters and hair dryers, etc.
Thin stuff. Each coil in the Heater Block looked to have somewhat different gauge Nichrome wire.
Maybe double it up if need be.

Buying Nichrome wire anymore would be difficult (to find) and you only need a
couple inches - not a roll !

Old Toasters and Hair Dryers at Goodwill, Volunteers of America, Salvation Army,
Value Village or maybe Garage and Yard sales....my grazing grounds!

DoctorBill

www.1stchevyparts.com (http://www.1stchevyparts.com) shows it available new for $40. I've never seen one fail, get it from a junkyard.