Bad Tie-rod Ends & Ball Joint

Guys,

Have a question ? In Aug (At inspection) they tolld me I needed new struts, tie-rod ends, engine & tranny mounts (Ford Mounts), and and alignment. So for about $1,200 I did it (including the Monroe Quick Struts) thinking if it lasted me until Jan 09 it was cheaper than a New-used car.

Took the car into Pep Boys on FRI for an oil change. They called me into the garage and showed me that they passanger side ball-joint and "BOTH" tie-rod ends were bad. Boots on tie-rod ends were craked and leaking grease. I had been told by another mechanic about 6 months ago that the one ball joint was going, but still ok, so I let it go and am figuring that was the one that I saw was bad on FRI during the oil change ??? Question ? What would make the tie rod-ends go so quickly ... I used Motorcraft tie-rods ?? Is there something else that is causing them to go so quickly ???

Thanks,

AJ

did you have a reputable shop do the alignment after all the work you did? If the ball joint (I'm assuming you mean the lower control arm) was bad than the tie rod could have been doing more work than it needed. I found that when I did the job you described on my 2000 windstar, the LCAs on both sides were bad. I replaced them both and then the quickstruts, inner/outer tie rods. I found the motorcraft tie rod ends didn't have a zerc fitting which I wanted so I used monroe. Maybe the Ford stuff isn't good?

Piper

Three months? Unless you put 50 k miles on it in three months, or due to some alignment issue (or the frame is bent?) I can't see any reason for that kind of wear.

If you still have the old parts, you can often tell the bad parts (particularly ball joints and tie rod ends) based on how loose the ball is in the socket.

Also, grease leakage from the boot on an outer tie rod end and ball joint is fairly normal. I've only seen 'cracked' boots when they were cut thru the rubber. A cut boot will allow road grime into the connection and wear it out. I once found mine cut after a shop worked on my vehicle. I believe they cut it by using a fork-style ball joint/tie rod separator (i.e. http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/pbi/647054.jpg)

The real gauge of wear is how loose the alignment is. On worn tie rod ends there's a slight side to side movement in the wheel when you turn it while it's off the ground. With ball joints it's usually a in/out looseness when you grab the top and bottom of the tire. Sometimes you can detect the wear by prying the steering knuckle away from the control arm and watching for movement.

This sounds WAY to soon to have to look at tie rod ends again.....grease fitting or no grease fitting.

Lower ball joints......the discussion on lower control arm......it is easier to replace the whole control arm, complete with new ball joint, than to remove it.....and take it to a shop to have the old bearing pressed out....and a new bearing pressed in.

Are you sure the shop actually replaced the parts or did they just tell you they did, billed you and then laughed all the way to the bank? Its not common for crap like that, but it has been done before and will be done again. Years ago, my wife took here can in for an exhaust system replacement. On the bill there was charges for all new pipes, muffler etc. When she brough it home, she told me it was kind of loud, so I went under and had a look. NO NEW pipes, just muffler. The noise was the holes in the pipes. I sent her back and made her stand up for herself. Man she made the mechanic squirm! In the end, they changed everything to new and we paid nothing more and we never went back.