240sx FAQ: READ BEFORE POSTING, NEWBIE!!!
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J SPEC SilEighty
03-18-2003, 03:50 PM
Ok guys, it was brought up in a different thread that we should start a FAQ. Post any information here that you think would be good to go in the FAQ. I think that if we all did this then it would help a lot of the new guys out as well as save us from having to answer the same repeated questions over and over. You guys think this is a good idea? Also if anybody see's any incorrect info posted, including in my following post, please correct it if you can so that this FAQ can be as accurate as possible. I think we can all make this really good :)
J SPEC SilEighty
03-18-2003, 03:51 PM
Where can I buy an SR20DET?
www.heavythrottle.com or www.srswap.com (same company)
www.unstable-hybrids.com
www.phase2motortrend.com
www.mckinneymotorsports.com
www.venus-auto.com/nissan.htm
www.boostdynamics.com
www.autoimaging.com
www.projectsilvia.com
www.neishlinmotors.com
www.jspecauto.com
www.streetimports.com
www.nippon-motors.com
www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/engine_choice.htm
www.afterdark-tuning.com
www.jarcoinc.com
www.flashoptions.com
www.osakajdmmotors.com
What are the differences between the models?
In the USA the 240SX came as the following:
- S13 chassis - 1989-1994 There was a coupe and a hatchback version. There was also a limited edition convertable version. When going for the S13, most people go for the 89-93 because the 94 was available strictly as a convertable with an auto tranny. From 1989-1990 the coupe and the fastback both came with the KA24E. That's a single cam motor that puts out 140 HP and 160 lb-ft of torque. From 1991 and up it came with the KA24DE, a dual cam motor that puts out 155 HP and 160 lb-ft of torque. The S13 was also available with HICAS which is a 4 wheel steering system. Some people like it a lot and some hate it. If you plan on drifting, you don't want HICAS.
- S14 chassis - 1995-1998 Here it was available only as a coupe but got a different body styling. There are 2 different S14's though. From 1995-1996 the S14 came with oval headlights. From 1997-1998 the headlights were changed to a slanted, or "shark eye" style. That was the only difference between the 2 S14's. The S14 came with the KA24DE.
In Japan it came as 2 different models, the 180SX and the Silvia.
- S13 chassis - 1989-1998 The 180SX is the japanese version of our 240SX fastback. They are the same except for the motor that was in it. From 1989-1990 The 180SX came with the CA18DET. From 91+ the 180SX got the ever so popular SR20DET. From 1991 to 1995 I believe the SR20DET was the "redtop" and is signified by it's red valve cover. In 94 the 180sx got the S13 Blacktop. This motor was the exact same as the S13 SR20DET Redtop except the blacktop was just newer. Remember, this is the S13 blacktop. The S14 blacktop is totally different. In 96-98 the 180SX got new taillights. The silvia was also made on the S13 chassis in japan but only until 93. The S13 silvia is identical to our S13 240SX coupe except it had a different motor and different headlights. The Silvia came in 3 models in the S13 chassis. The Jack, Queen, and King. From 89-91 the Jack and Queen both got the CA18DE. From 91-93 the Jack and Queen both got the SR20DE. From 89-91 the King got the CA18DET. From 91-93 the King got the SR20DET. The SR that came in the S13 silvia's were the redtop SR's. This SR20DET had a T25 turbo
- S14 chassis - 1994-1998 On the S14 chassis, only the silvia was made. There was no 180SX made on the S14 chassis. The S14 Silvia is identical to our S14 240SX except for the motor. The S14 Silvia is like the Jack, Queen and King on the S13 chassis. The Jack and Queen both got the SR20DE while the King got the SR20DET. This SR20DET had a T28 ball bearing turbo. VVT was introduced to the SR20DET on the S14 chassis.
- S15 chassis - 1999- We didn't get the S15 chassis in the USA. The S15 got the newest version of the SR20DET. It also has the T28 ball bearing turbo like the S14. The S15 SR20DET got bigger fuel injectors that were 480 cc/min stepped up from the 370 cc/min injectors of the S13 and S14. The S15 also got a 6 speed transmission, but is said to be weak with drifters due to the thinner gears and break around 350-400 HP. I haven't really seen this proved because the Blitz S15 has about 450 HP and is still using the stock S15 tranny. VVT was used once again.
SR20DET Specs - (info is straight from www.srswap.com)
---180SX 91-93 and Silvia 91-93---
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore and stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5 : 1
Horsepower: 205ps at 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs at 4000rpm
Stock boost: 7 psi
Throttle body bore: 60mm
Injector size: 370cc/min
Turbo specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Aluminum alloy block and head with steel alloy sleeves. Distributorless, crank angle sensor activated ignition, direct fire coil packs. Stock SR's come with an internal wastegate, a knock sensor, a side mounted intercooler and a bypass valve that is routed back into the intake after the MAF before the turbo. Stock turbo outlet is 1 7/8 inches, inlet and throttle body are ~2 1/2 inches.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.
---180SX 94-98---
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore and stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5 : 1
Horsepower: 205hp at 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs at 4000rpm
Stock boost: 7 psi
Throttle body bore: 60mm
Injector size: 370cc/min
Turbo specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Stats and Performance - same as s13 sr20det
---Silvia 95-98---
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Horsepower: 220hp at 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs at 4800rpm
Bore and stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5 : 1
Turbo specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
Variable valve timing system and a different turbo are the significant changes from the S13 SR20DET engines. S14 uses 'low port' intake design vs. S13 'high port' design.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost.
---S15 Silvia 99- ---
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Bore and stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5 : 1
Horsepower: 250ps at 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs at 4800rpm
Transmission: 6 Speed, Close Ratio
Injector size: 480cc/min
Turbo specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: Inco turbine wheel. Cast divider wall between turbine discharge and wastegate.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
Additions: 6 speed manual transmission. The 6 speed cannot be used on the S13 and S14 motors, and uses a different driveshaft. Speed sensor is located in the differential.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 15-18 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce close to 300 RWHP at safe boost.
What do I need to install the SR20DET? (info from www.srswap.com)
---S13 SR20DET:---
Required Parts for the install:
Engine, transmission, alternator, starter, power steering pump, Crank Angle Sensor, ECU, harness, MAFS, Power Transistor / Ignitor Chip.
Fitment:
Fits into US 240SX S13 chassis with no modifications. Uses the host chassis driveshaft and differential. Uses the standard downpipe and catalytic converter with the 240SX catback exhaust. 89-90 chassis will need power steering lines and reservoir from 91-94 chassis.
---S14 SR20DET:---
Required Parts for the install:
Engine, transmission, alternator, starter, power steering pump, Crank Angle Sensor, ECU, harness, MAFS, Power Transistor / Ignitor Chip.
Fitment:
Fits into US 240SX S13 chassis with no modifications. Uses the host chassis driveshaft and differential. Uses the standard downpipe and catalytic converter with the 240SX catback exhaust. 89-90 chassis will need power steering lines and reservoir from 91-94 chassis. Fits into US 240SX S14 chassis with no modifications.
---S15 SR20DET:---
Required Parts for the install:
Engine, S15 6 speed transmission, S15 driveshaft, S15 differential, S15 speedometer, alternator, starter, power steering pump, Crank Angle Sensor, ECU, harness, MAFS.
Fitment:
The engine and transmission will fit into 95-98 S14 US 240SX chassis with minor modifications to the transmission mounts. The differential is needed as the speed sensor is located there.
The S13 chassis requires more work. The driveshaft has different mounting location from the S14 / S15 chassis. Custom work must be done.
www.heavythrottle.com or www.srswap.com (same company)
www.unstable-hybrids.com
www.phase2motortrend.com
www.mckinneymotorsports.com
www.venus-auto.com/nissan.htm
www.boostdynamics.com
www.autoimaging.com
www.projectsilvia.com
www.neishlinmotors.com
www.jspecauto.com
www.streetimports.com
www.nippon-motors.com
www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/engine_choice.htm
www.afterdark-tuning.com
www.jarcoinc.com
www.flashoptions.com
www.osakajdmmotors.com
What are the differences between the models?
In the USA the 240SX came as the following:
- S13 chassis - 1989-1994 There was a coupe and a hatchback version. There was also a limited edition convertable version. When going for the S13, most people go for the 89-93 because the 94 was available strictly as a convertable with an auto tranny. From 1989-1990 the coupe and the fastback both came with the KA24E. That's a single cam motor that puts out 140 HP and 160 lb-ft of torque. From 1991 and up it came with the KA24DE, a dual cam motor that puts out 155 HP and 160 lb-ft of torque. The S13 was also available with HICAS which is a 4 wheel steering system. Some people like it a lot and some hate it. If you plan on drifting, you don't want HICAS.
- S14 chassis - 1995-1998 Here it was available only as a coupe but got a different body styling. There are 2 different S14's though. From 1995-1996 the S14 came with oval headlights. From 1997-1998 the headlights were changed to a slanted, or "shark eye" style. That was the only difference between the 2 S14's. The S14 came with the KA24DE.
In Japan it came as 2 different models, the 180SX and the Silvia.
- S13 chassis - 1989-1998 The 180SX is the japanese version of our 240SX fastback. They are the same except for the motor that was in it. From 1989-1990 The 180SX came with the CA18DET. From 91+ the 180SX got the ever so popular SR20DET. From 1991 to 1995 I believe the SR20DET was the "redtop" and is signified by it's red valve cover. In 94 the 180sx got the S13 Blacktop. This motor was the exact same as the S13 SR20DET Redtop except the blacktop was just newer. Remember, this is the S13 blacktop. The S14 blacktop is totally different. In 96-98 the 180SX got new taillights. The silvia was also made on the S13 chassis in japan but only until 93. The S13 silvia is identical to our S13 240SX coupe except it had a different motor and different headlights. The Silvia came in 3 models in the S13 chassis. The Jack, Queen, and King. From 89-91 the Jack and Queen both got the CA18DE. From 91-93 the Jack and Queen both got the SR20DE. From 89-91 the King got the CA18DET. From 91-93 the King got the SR20DET. The SR that came in the S13 silvia's were the redtop SR's. This SR20DET had a T25 turbo
- S14 chassis - 1994-1998 On the S14 chassis, only the silvia was made. There was no 180SX made on the S14 chassis. The S14 Silvia is identical to our S14 240SX except for the motor. The S14 Silvia is like the Jack, Queen and King on the S13 chassis. The Jack and Queen both got the SR20DE while the King got the SR20DET. This SR20DET had a T28 ball bearing turbo. VVT was introduced to the SR20DET on the S14 chassis.
- S15 chassis - 1999- We didn't get the S15 chassis in the USA. The S15 got the newest version of the SR20DET. It also has the T28 ball bearing turbo like the S14. The S15 SR20DET got bigger fuel injectors that were 480 cc/min stepped up from the 370 cc/min injectors of the S13 and S14. The S15 also got a 6 speed transmission, but is said to be weak with drifters due to the thinner gears and break around 350-400 HP. I haven't really seen this proved because the Blitz S15 has about 450 HP and is still using the stock S15 tranny. VVT was used once again.
SR20DET Specs - (info is straight from www.srswap.com)
---180SX 91-93 and Silvia 91-93---
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore and stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5 : 1
Horsepower: 205ps at 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs at 4000rpm
Stock boost: 7 psi
Throttle body bore: 60mm
Injector size: 370cc/min
Turbo specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Aluminum alloy block and head with steel alloy sleeves. Distributorless, crank angle sensor activated ignition, direct fire coil packs. Stock SR's come with an internal wastegate, a knock sensor, a side mounted intercooler and a bypass valve that is routed back into the intake after the MAF before the turbo. Stock turbo outlet is 1 7/8 inches, inlet and throttle body are ~2 1/2 inches.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.
---180SX 94-98---
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore and stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5 : 1
Horsepower: 205hp at 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs at 4000rpm
Stock boost: 7 psi
Throttle body bore: 60mm
Injector size: 370cc/min
Turbo specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Stats and Performance - same as s13 sr20det
---Silvia 95-98---
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Horsepower: 220hp at 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs at 4800rpm
Bore and stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5 : 1
Turbo specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
Variable valve timing system and a different turbo are the significant changes from the S13 SR20DET engines. S14 uses 'low port' intake design vs. S13 'high port' design.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost.
---S15 Silvia 99- ---
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Bore and stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5 : 1
Horsepower: 250ps at 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs at 4800rpm
Transmission: 6 Speed, Close Ratio
Injector size: 480cc/min
Turbo specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: Inco turbine wheel. Cast divider wall between turbine discharge and wastegate.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
Additions: 6 speed manual transmission. The 6 speed cannot be used on the S13 and S14 motors, and uses a different driveshaft. Speed sensor is located in the differential.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 15-18 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce close to 300 RWHP at safe boost.
What do I need to install the SR20DET? (info from www.srswap.com)
---S13 SR20DET:---
Required Parts for the install:
Engine, transmission, alternator, starter, power steering pump, Crank Angle Sensor, ECU, harness, MAFS, Power Transistor / Ignitor Chip.
Fitment:
Fits into US 240SX S13 chassis with no modifications. Uses the host chassis driveshaft and differential. Uses the standard downpipe and catalytic converter with the 240SX catback exhaust. 89-90 chassis will need power steering lines and reservoir from 91-94 chassis.
---S14 SR20DET:---
Required Parts for the install:
Engine, transmission, alternator, starter, power steering pump, Crank Angle Sensor, ECU, harness, MAFS, Power Transistor / Ignitor Chip.
Fitment:
Fits into US 240SX S13 chassis with no modifications. Uses the host chassis driveshaft and differential. Uses the standard downpipe and catalytic converter with the 240SX catback exhaust. 89-90 chassis will need power steering lines and reservoir from 91-94 chassis. Fits into US 240SX S14 chassis with no modifications.
---S15 SR20DET:---
Required Parts for the install:
Engine, S15 6 speed transmission, S15 driveshaft, S15 differential, S15 speedometer, alternator, starter, power steering pump, Crank Angle Sensor, ECU, harness, MAFS.
Fitment:
The engine and transmission will fit into 95-98 S14 US 240SX chassis with minor modifications to the transmission mounts. The differential is needed as the speed sensor is located there.
The S13 chassis requires more work. The driveshaft has different mounting location from the S14 / S15 chassis. Custom work must be done.
Suislide
03-18-2003, 03:56 PM
well you pretty much just took everything i was about to say in your first post. and you got to the FAQ before i did! i was just about to start one when i came on now, and i see you've already got it going. good on ya! smart minds think alike.
Skyline engines - will they fit in my 240SX??
yes. RB20DET, RB25DET, and RB26DETT will all fit into your 240SX, each with a different amount of modification. The RB26DETT requires the most work, because the twin turbos will not clear the steering column without modification. the other 2 require smaller levels of modification (different engine and tranny mounts) in order to fit in your car.
oh, and for most questions you could ask, GOOGLE (http://www.google.com) is your friend. ;)
Skyline engines - will they fit in my 240SX??
yes. RB20DET, RB25DET, and RB26DETT will all fit into your 240SX, each with a different amount of modification. The RB26DETT requires the most work, because the twin turbos will not clear the steering column without modification. the other 2 require smaller levels of modification (different engine and tranny mounts) in order to fit in your car.
oh, and for most questions you could ask, GOOGLE (http://www.google.com) is your friend. ;)
Suislide
03-18-2003, 08:01 PM
parts websites for 240SX's of all generations:
www.autoimaging.com
www.takakaira.com
www.bee-r.com
www.g-corporation.co.jp
www.gpsports.co.jp
www.hks-power.co.jp
www.hotroad.co.jp
www.ings-net.com
www.junauto.co.jp
www.k-style.gr.jp
www.nissansilvia.com
www.signalauto.co.jp
www.trial.co.jp
www.jspec.com
www.zenitani.com
www.c-west.co.jp
www.bomex-aero.com
www.santeca.com
www.yashiofactory.co.jp
www.h4.dion.ne.jp/~west-y/
www.trust-power.com
www.apexi.co.jp
www.fujitsubo.co.jp
www.uras.co.jp
www.g-grow.co.jp
www.tein.co.jp
www.jic-magic.co.jp
www.advan.co.jp
www.rayswheels.co.jp
www.blitz.co.jp
www.bn-sports.co.jp
www.automotiveforums.com
www.clearcorners.com
www.autoimaging.com
www.takakaira.com
www.bee-r.com
www.g-corporation.co.jp
www.gpsports.co.jp
www.hks-power.co.jp
www.hotroad.co.jp
www.ings-net.com
www.junauto.co.jp
www.k-style.gr.jp
www.nissansilvia.com
www.signalauto.co.jp
www.trial.co.jp
www.jspec.com
www.zenitani.com
www.c-west.co.jp
www.bomex-aero.com
www.santeca.com
www.yashiofactory.co.jp
www.h4.dion.ne.jp/~west-y/
www.trust-power.com
www.apexi.co.jp
www.fujitsubo.co.jp
www.uras.co.jp
www.g-grow.co.jp
www.tein.co.jp
www.jic-magic.co.jp
www.advan.co.jp
www.rayswheels.co.jp
www.blitz.co.jp
www.bn-sports.co.jp
www.automotiveforums.com
www.clearcorners.com
turbo2nr
03-19-2003, 05:41 AM
What parts do i need to make my 240sx h\b into a sil-eighty?
The sil-eighty conversion can be done with two types of lights the s-13 lights and the s-15 lights, with the s-13 lights they will bolt up to the 240sx light housing but you will need to get the fenders and bumper to go with the lights.
With doing a sil-eighty s-15 conversion you will need the s-15 headlights, some custom brackets cause the s-15 lights do not "bolt up" you will also need the (strawberry face) fenders, the hood to go along with the light pattern and a front bumper to go along with all of these.
A sil-eighty can also be done with the s-14 lights.
some websites sell these kits such as:
www.takakaira.com (s-15 sil-eighty conversion)
The sil-eighty conversion can be done with two types of lights the s-13 lights and the s-15 lights, with the s-13 lights they will bolt up to the 240sx light housing but you will need to get the fenders and bumper to go with the lights.
With doing a sil-eighty s-15 conversion you will need the s-15 headlights, some custom brackets cause the s-15 lights do not "bolt up" you will also need the (strawberry face) fenders, the hood to go along with the light pattern and a front bumper to go along with all of these.
A sil-eighty can also be done with the s-14 lights.
some websites sell these kits such as:
www.takakaira.com (s-15 sil-eighty conversion)
SR20DETpower
03-19-2003, 09:31 AM
I think we should also include some performance upgrades for the car.
Such as:
LSD
brakes
body mods
cooling
fuel
exhaust systems
ecu's
Such as:
LSD
brakes
body mods
cooling
fuel
exhaust systems
ecu's
turbo2nr
03-19-2003, 10:04 AM
Good performance upgrads
here are some good preformance upgrades please add to this list if you know of any better ones:
"BOLT ON'S"
1. blow off valve (hks,blitz,greedy,ect..)
2. 3"down pipe (hks, apex-i)
3. 3"exaust(hks,apex-i,blits,gredy,ect..)
4. front mounted intercooler(hks,blitz,greedy,apex-i)
5. intake (cone, piping,ect..)
6. intercooler piping
7. up graded hi flow fuel pump (from a 300z of a skyline)
8. boost controller(hks, apex-i;greddy,blitz)
9. turbo timer(hks,blitz,greedy,ect..)
10. upgraded hi flow fuel reglator
"STAGE 2"
11. greedy intake manifold
12. exaust manifold(greedy,hks,apex-i,ect..)
13. upgraded turbo(ball bearing, suck as a hks gt2035, t-78, td-06,ect)
14. 550cc,625cc,or750cc injectors
15. stand alone fuel managment(apex-i, motec, haltec,greedy(f-con pro)
16. 8.5:1 pistons
17. forged connecting rods
18. cam gears
19. camshafts
20. valve springs
21. pushrods
22. rockers
23. port and polished head
24. balanced engine components
25. ecu tunning
25. fulidlyne raditor or other brand
26. fal fans or other brands
27. oil cooler
28. transimition cooler
"TRANSMITION"
1. upgraded clutch
2. lightend flywheel (11lbs)
3. upgraded drive shaft
4. short shifter
5. L.S.D.**
"SUSPENSION"
1. coilovers(hks, tien, ect..)
2. springs
3. shocks
4. control arms
5. strut bar
6. sway bar
"BODY MODS"
1. air kit(bomex,do luck, nismo, c-west,ect..)
2. spoilers
3. side mirrors
4. side markers
5. head lights (s-15, s-14, s-13, conversions for pop up 180sx lights)
6. jdm 180sx tail lights, s-14, s-13.
7. jdm rims
8. jdm badges
9. hid lights
" INTERIOR"
1. racing seats(bride,sparco, cobar, recardo, ect..)
2. racing harness
3. racing steering wheel
4. shift knob
5. hand brake
6. jdm gauges
7. roll cage
8. gutted interior
well dats all i can think of rite now please all more if you can hope this helps
1
here are some good preformance upgrades please add to this list if you know of any better ones:
"BOLT ON'S"
1. blow off valve (hks,blitz,greedy,ect..)
2. 3"down pipe (hks, apex-i)
3. 3"exaust(hks,apex-i,blits,gredy,ect..)
4. front mounted intercooler(hks,blitz,greedy,apex-i)
5. intake (cone, piping,ect..)
6. intercooler piping
7. up graded hi flow fuel pump (from a 300z of a skyline)
8. boost controller(hks, apex-i;greddy,blitz)
9. turbo timer(hks,blitz,greedy,ect..)
10. upgraded hi flow fuel reglator
"STAGE 2"
11. greedy intake manifold
12. exaust manifold(greedy,hks,apex-i,ect..)
13. upgraded turbo(ball bearing, suck as a hks gt2035, t-78, td-06,ect)
14. 550cc,625cc,or750cc injectors
15. stand alone fuel managment(apex-i, motec, haltec,greedy(f-con pro)
16. 8.5:1 pistons
17. forged connecting rods
18. cam gears
19. camshafts
20. valve springs
21. pushrods
22. rockers
23. port and polished head
24. balanced engine components
25. ecu tunning
25. fulidlyne raditor or other brand
26. fal fans or other brands
27. oil cooler
28. transimition cooler
"TRANSMITION"
1. upgraded clutch
2. lightend flywheel (11lbs)
3. upgraded drive shaft
4. short shifter
5. L.S.D.**
"SUSPENSION"
1. coilovers(hks, tien, ect..)
2. springs
3. shocks
4. control arms
5. strut bar
6. sway bar
"BODY MODS"
1. air kit(bomex,do luck, nismo, c-west,ect..)
2. spoilers
3. side mirrors
4. side markers
5. head lights (s-15, s-14, s-13, conversions for pop up 180sx lights)
6. jdm 180sx tail lights, s-14, s-13.
7. jdm rims
8. jdm badges
9. hid lights
" INTERIOR"
1. racing seats(bride,sparco, cobar, recardo, ect..)
2. racing harness
3. racing steering wheel
4. shift knob
5. hand brake
6. jdm gauges
7. roll cage
8. gutted interior
well dats all i can think of rite now please all more if you can hope this helps
1
Suislide
03-19-2003, 10:51 AM
adding on to sr20det2nr's post.
parts needed for the S13 front end are: front fenders, bumper, hood, headlights, centrepiece (says Silvia on it), headlight brackets. make SURE to get the headlight brackets, as without them, your headlights will not bolt on to the car.
for the S15 front end, parts straight from an S15 WILL NOT fit your S13. one of the links i posted in my "parts URL" post in this thread is a link to a company called West Yokohama. they specify in making custom kits to put the S15 front end on the S13 body. the link is www.h4.dion.ne.jp/~west-y/ .
btw, sr20de, it's "transmission", not "transmition". ;)
Why do i hear people calling the S15 front end a "Strawberry Face?"
simple explanation. the japanese word for 15 is Ichi-Go (ichi is 1 and go is 5). since it's an S15 front end, people in Japan call it "Ichi-Go". in Japanese, the word Ichi-Go also means Strawberry, so therefore when translated, it can mean either 15 or Strawberry, and people just started calling it that.
parts needed for the S13 front end are: front fenders, bumper, hood, headlights, centrepiece (says Silvia on it), headlight brackets. make SURE to get the headlight brackets, as without them, your headlights will not bolt on to the car.
for the S15 front end, parts straight from an S15 WILL NOT fit your S13. one of the links i posted in my "parts URL" post in this thread is a link to a company called West Yokohama. they specify in making custom kits to put the S15 front end on the S13 body. the link is www.h4.dion.ne.jp/~west-y/ .
btw, sr20de, it's "transmission", not "transmition". ;)
Why do i hear people calling the S15 front end a "Strawberry Face?"
simple explanation. the japanese word for 15 is Ichi-Go (ichi is 1 and go is 5). since it's an S15 front end, people in Japan call it "Ichi-Go". in Japanese, the word Ichi-Go also means Strawberry, so therefore when translated, it can mean either 15 or Strawberry, and people just started calling it that.
Suislide
03-19-2003, 11:08 AM
Will a '91-'93 front bumper fit onto my '89-'90 240SX?
Yes. the only thing changed on the bumper was the bumper itself. it mounts exactly the same as the last one did, and requires no modification or new parts in order to fit.
Yes. the only thing changed on the bumper was the bumper itself. it mounts exactly the same as the last one did, and requires no modification or new parts in order to fit.
Suislide
03-19-2003, 04:24 PM
Why is the S15 6-speed not desirable?
the S15 6-speed is 6 gears crammed into the same transmission housing as the S15 5-speed. this obviousley means that the gears have to be thinner in order to fit that extra one in there. since the gears are thinner, they tend to break alot easier. but, as J Spec said, sometimes the tranny can handle power and be fine. there ARE ways to strengthen it as well, but generally the best choice for strength is to use the 5-speed.
the S15 6-speed is 6 gears crammed into the same transmission housing as the S15 5-speed. this obviousley means that the gears have to be thinner in order to fit that extra one in there. since the gears are thinner, they tend to break alot easier. but, as J Spec said, sometimes the tranny can handle power and be fine. there ARE ways to strengthen it as well, but generally the best choice for strength is to use the 5-speed.
turbo2nr
03-20-2003, 07:30 AM
converting your automatic to a 5 speed
this page has a detailed summary on how to convert a auto into a 5speed using a s-14 motor, it should be basically the same if you are using another motor series
hope it helps!
http://240sx.org/links/installs/s14_5speed_swap.htm
this page has a detailed summary on how to convert a auto into a 5speed using a s-14 motor, it should be basically the same if you are using another motor series
hope it helps!
http://240sx.org/links/installs/s14_5speed_swap.htm
Dorikin
03-20-2003, 01:09 PM
Different Engine Choices
This has been debated many a time, so here goes.
1. 48THE KA-T IS THE MOTOR FOR DRAG RACING-NOT THE SR, NOT THE RB, THE KA-T. THE KA-T IS THE MOTOR FOR DRAG RACING-NOT THE SR, NOT THE RB, THE KA-T.
I know some of you are thinking, "I want dat JDM shizzz y0", but lets face the facts.
How many SR's are running 10's?
How many LHD RB's are running 10's(HKS Drag 180 doesnt count)
How many KA-T's are running 10's? Well theres a couple in Florida...
The KA-T is suited for dragging because its bulletproof, its powerband is suited towards dragging, and its easily avalibe for parts.
A Turbo kit can easily be made with a Turbonetics turbo, a spearco I/C and piping. In fact, many kits are currently avalible.
The SR20 is suited towards non-straghit line driving because its powerband is lower-down where you need it. Most SR's are running 12-14.5's in the 1/4 with the modded ones running 12's. This is because the SR20s powerband combined with the gearing make it ill-suited to drag.
Set-up for drifting:
The 1st thing I can stress: DRIVELINE PARTS
redThe 1st thing I can stress: DRIVELINE PARTS
Tires: Any shitty tires will do on the rear. Some people run blad tires with steel wheels on back, and good tires with nice rims up front.
I'd reccomend Advan Neova's, Bridgestone S03's, Flaken Aziens(if your REALLY good), or Yokohama A038's.
Tires will make or break you...
LSD: Kaaz LSD's are generally regarded as superior to other LSD's. Kaaz uses special spider gears and pinons superior to other LSD's made by Hitachi/Tochigi Fuji Sangyo(The 2 main suppliers of LSD's to ALL companies). An OEM VLSD will be fine for beginners.
Suspension: JIC FLT series coilovers are the wisest choice. They offer a bajillion different settings and heights, and are expensive. The end result is endless tunability.
Of course, Tein HE/HA's are a good choice, with the EDFC, however I feel JIC's are the wiser choice.
Seats/Steering Wheel: You would be suprised how this makes a difference. Get a Sparco or Corbeau or MOMO seat and sterring wheel. These will stop you from getting thrown around in your seat and using the door as a brace. Also a set of racing harnesses are a wise idea.
After you've done all this, and done some time on a road course/track proceed to your SR Swap.
I reccomend Santeca Performance and Electronics.
www.santeca.com
They specialize in JDM parts, and can obtain nearly any JDM part you require.
If your into stereos and ICE, they sell cameras and LCD screens and other crap...
This has been debated many a time, so here goes.
1. 48THE KA-T IS THE MOTOR FOR DRAG RACING-NOT THE SR, NOT THE RB, THE KA-T. THE KA-T IS THE MOTOR FOR DRAG RACING-NOT THE SR, NOT THE RB, THE KA-T.
I know some of you are thinking, "I want dat JDM shizzz y0", but lets face the facts.
How many SR's are running 10's?
How many LHD RB's are running 10's(HKS Drag 180 doesnt count)
How many KA-T's are running 10's? Well theres a couple in Florida...
The KA-T is suited for dragging because its bulletproof, its powerband is suited towards dragging, and its easily avalibe for parts.
A Turbo kit can easily be made with a Turbonetics turbo, a spearco I/C and piping. In fact, many kits are currently avalible.
The SR20 is suited towards non-straghit line driving because its powerband is lower-down where you need it. Most SR's are running 12-14.5's in the 1/4 with the modded ones running 12's. This is because the SR20s powerband combined with the gearing make it ill-suited to drag.
Set-up for drifting:
The 1st thing I can stress: DRIVELINE PARTS
redThe 1st thing I can stress: DRIVELINE PARTS
Tires: Any shitty tires will do on the rear. Some people run blad tires with steel wheels on back, and good tires with nice rims up front.
I'd reccomend Advan Neova's, Bridgestone S03's, Flaken Aziens(if your REALLY good), or Yokohama A038's.
Tires will make or break you...
LSD: Kaaz LSD's are generally regarded as superior to other LSD's. Kaaz uses special spider gears and pinons superior to other LSD's made by Hitachi/Tochigi Fuji Sangyo(The 2 main suppliers of LSD's to ALL companies). An OEM VLSD will be fine for beginners.
Suspension: JIC FLT series coilovers are the wisest choice. They offer a bajillion different settings and heights, and are expensive. The end result is endless tunability.
Of course, Tein HE/HA's are a good choice, with the EDFC, however I feel JIC's are the wiser choice.
Seats/Steering Wheel: You would be suprised how this makes a difference. Get a Sparco or Corbeau or MOMO seat and sterring wheel. These will stop you from getting thrown around in your seat and using the door as a brace. Also a set of racing harnesses are a wise idea.
After you've done all this, and done some time on a road course/track proceed to your SR Swap.
I reccomend Santeca Performance and Electronics.
www.santeca.com
They specialize in JDM parts, and can obtain nearly any JDM part you require.
If your into stereos and ICE, they sell cameras and LCD screens and other crap...
Dorikin
03-20-2003, 01:10 PM
Originally posted by Rage of Xenin
i would actually like to know what the emissions are on an SR20DET are like. could you pass Cali emission laws with this engine even though i live in Toronto and not Cali. Cali is lower so i would think it would be passable here. i dont think i've seen any sites that have actually brought up a Q&A for that.
You MAY pass Drive CLean, I donno for sure...
i would actually like to know what the emissions are on an SR20DET are like. could you pass Cali emission laws with this engine even though i live in Toronto and not Cali. Cali is lower so i would think it would be passable here. i dont think i've seen any sites that have actually brought up a Q&A for that.
You MAY pass Drive CLean, I donno for sure...
Dorikin
03-20-2003, 01:19 PM
SR20 Upgrades
Generallly when having an SR Swap done, people get items like
FMIC
Exhaust
Turbo Timer
Gauges
Boost COntroller
Filter
LSD(sometimes)
You can expect to run 14.5 on a bone stock SR. Some people have run 12's or high 11's but thats the limit.
Keep in mind that SR's are expensive. Dont blow them/over boost.
May be a wise idea to buy extra head gaskets, pumps, MAF, or other parts that can blow easy.
This is why a KA-T is a better choice for high-stress apps such as drag racing.
(from www.jspec.com)
A setup kit for KA24DE(NOT A COMPLETE TURBO KIT). Comes with the following and all parts are brand new.
1. coated Revhard manifold(revised version)
2. t04 on center turbo(intake .60 A/R exhaust .58 A/R)
3. turbonetic deltagate
4. gasket and flange
You'll need tuning,fuel enrichment,downpipe, intercooler kit or pipping, and oil lines to make this work. NO the turbo is NOT ball bearing and it's the most basic T04 you can buy(good for 350hp)
You can get a KA24DE for $500-700 at a junkyard. If you blow anything, just get another. Beats paying 4000 for an SR then blwong it and waiting for a new one from Japan...
Maybe we should have an JDM/engine FAQ and a drag/drifting FAQ
Generallly when having an SR Swap done, people get items like
FMIC
Exhaust
Turbo Timer
Gauges
Boost COntroller
Filter
LSD(sometimes)
You can expect to run 14.5 on a bone stock SR. Some people have run 12's or high 11's but thats the limit.
Keep in mind that SR's are expensive. Dont blow them/over boost.
May be a wise idea to buy extra head gaskets, pumps, MAF, or other parts that can blow easy.
This is why a KA-T is a better choice for high-stress apps such as drag racing.
(from www.jspec.com)
A setup kit for KA24DE(NOT A COMPLETE TURBO KIT). Comes with the following and all parts are brand new.
1. coated Revhard manifold(revised version)
2. t04 on center turbo(intake .60 A/R exhaust .58 A/R)
3. turbonetic deltagate
4. gasket and flange
You'll need tuning,fuel enrichment,downpipe, intercooler kit or pipping, and oil lines to make this work. NO the turbo is NOT ball bearing and it's the most basic T04 you can buy(good for 350hp)
You can get a KA24DE for $500-700 at a junkyard. If you blow anything, just get another. Beats paying 4000 for an SR then blwong it and waiting for a new one from Japan...
Maybe we should have an JDM/engine FAQ and a drag/drifting FAQ
TheLogikal1
03-20-2003, 03:42 PM
ok these arent asked much but...
whats needed for a 2jz swap?
what kind of tranny would work with it?
whats needed for a 2jz swap?
what kind of tranny would work with it?
Dorikin
03-20-2003, 04:30 PM
LOTS of custom work. Maybe some crazy ass mechanics from Japan....I donno if it can even be done.....
Suislide
03-20-2003, 05:56 PM
2JZ swap is VERY expensive because of the ammount of custom fab needed. you'd be better off with an RB series engine. they fit better, cost less and need alot less custom fab.
Derek - it CAN be done. Dart Izumi won a round of last year's D1 series with a 2JZ powered S14.
N1 sound can vary depending on how you've tuned your car. it's not always loud and buzzy.
SR will not pass Drive Clean in Ontario.
and cutting the cat out of your exhaust is illegal and not a good idea unless your car is strictly for track use.
Derek - it CAN be done. Dart Izumi won a round of last year's D1 series with a 2JZ powered S14.
N1 sound can vary depending on how you've tuned your car. it's not always loud and buzzy.
SR will not pass Drive Clean in Ontario.
and cutting the cat out of your exhaust is illegal and not a good idea unless your car is strictly for track use.
J SPEC SilEighty
03-21-2003, 08:18 AM
Originally posted by Rage of Xenin
thanx for that info.
how much hp can you get out of a KA-T? like push it to its max without blowing it?
duy had close to 600 whp on his ka-t
thanx for that info.
how much hp can you get out of a KA-T? like push it to its max without blowing it?
duy had close to 600 whp on his ka-t
Suislide
03-21-2003, 02:43 PM
Some Terms You Might Hear Used Alot In Relation To Japanese Vehicles
Zenki - means early model. for example, we will use the 180SX. A Zenki 180SX would be those from '89-'90, with the "hog nose" front end and CA18 engine.
Chouki or Chuuki - means mid-model. Chouki 180SX would be those with the nicer round front end, and with the first available SR (red top), made from '91-'94 (in North America) and '91-'95 (in Japan).
Kouki - late model. Kouki 180SX are those with new taillights, front end only sold in Japan, and black top SR, made from '96-'98, Japan only.
these terms are thrown around alot concerning Japanese vehicles.
Zenki - means early model. for example, we will use the 180SX. A Zenki 180SX would be those from '89-'90, with the "hog nose" front end and CA18 engine.
Chouki or Chuuki - means mid-model. Chouki 180SX would be those with the nicer round front end, and with the first available SR (red top), made from '91-'94 (in North America) and '91-'95 (in Japan).
Kouki - late model. Kouki 180SX are those with new taillights, front end only sold in Japan, and black top SR, made from '96-'98, Japan only.
these terms are thrown around alot concerning Japanese vehicles.
Suislide
03-21-2003, 05:57 PM
Short Explanation Of The Term "Sileighty" (if you didn't already know it)
as you well know, 180SX's are very popular drift cars in Japan. with drifting comes crashing. the 2 go hand in hand. if you drift, then you WILL crash at least once. it's not an "if", it's a "when". anywho, these drifters in Japan with their 180SX's would have an accident involving the front end of their car. but they found out that 180SX front ends are more expensive then Silvia front ends, because of the flip up lights and the mechanisms needed to make them work. the Silvia front end is also lighter because of the lack of those mechanisms. so, since the 180SX and S13 Silvia platforms are exactly the same, these drifters figured out that, for less money, they could buy a weight saving S13 front end and stick it on their 180SX. this hybrid freak-car was given the name Sileighty. why? well, it's simple. the Sil stands for Silvia. since the front end of the Silvia was used, they use the front end of the word. and thusly, the Eighty stands for 180(SX). again, since they used the back part of that car, the back part of the word was used. and the rest, they say, is history. another popular variation in Japan is the One-via. a One-via is the exact opposite of a Sileighty. it's a 180SX flip-up-light front end on an S13 coupe rear end (one for 180, via for Silvia)(all north american S13 coupes were technically sold as One-Vias). since the 180SX front end is heavier and more expensive, this serves no real purpose except to be unique. some other variations are the Sky-eighty (Skyline front on 180, needs custom fabrication), Cef-80 (A31 Cefiro front end on 180, custom fab needed), One-firo (180 front on Cefiro rear, LOTS of custom fab...) and the ever popular 1580 (S15 Silvia front end on 180, technically this is still a Sileighty, but it's called a 1580 so that it's easy to differentiate between S13 and S15 Sileighties). there are countless other combinations, most of which require custom fabrication in order to look good.
as you well know, 180SX's are very popular drift cars in Japan. with drifting comes crashing. the 2 go hand in hand. if you drift, then you WILL crash at least once. it's not an "if", it's a "when". anywho, these drifters in Japan with their 180SX's would have an accident involving the front end of their car. but they found out that 180SX front ends are more expensive then Silvia front ends, because of the flip up lights and the mechanisms needed to make them work. the Silvia front end is also lighter because of the lack of those mechanisms. so, since the 180SX and S13 Silvia platforms are exactly the same, these drifters figured out that, for less money, they could buy a weight saving S13 front end and stick it on their 180SX. this hybrid freak-car was given the name Sileighty. why? well, it's simple. the Sil stands for Silvia. since the front end of the Silvia was used, they use the front end of the word. and thusly, the Eighty stands for 180(SX). again, since they used the back part of that car, the back part of the word was used. and the rest, they say, is history. another popular variation in Japan is the One-via. a One-via is the exact opposite of a Sileighty. it's a 180SX flip-up-light front end on an S13 coupe rear end (one for 180, via for Silvia)(all north american S13 coupes were technically sold as One-Vias). since the 180SX front end is heavier and more expensive, this serves no real purpose except to be unique. some other variations are the Sky-eighty (Skyline front on 180, needs custom fabrication), Cef-80 (A31 Cefiro front end on 180, custom fab needed), One-firo (180 front on Cefiro rear, LOTS of custom fab...) and the ever popular 1580 (S15 Silvia front end on 180, technically this is still a Sileighty, but it's called a 1580 so that it's easy to differentiate between S13 and S15 Sileighties). there are countless other combinations, most of which require custom fabrication in order to look good.
Suislide
03-22-2003, 09:03 AM
Originally posted by Dorikin
One more thing I felt I had to add....
Drifting is not Initial D, or D1 or Video Option or Super Street...
You will spin, you will crash, you will blow something..It's a fact of life..if you havent spun out, theres something wrong....This is what will keep the riceboys out...once they crash and blow theyre 6k paintjob, they wont wanna do it....It's hard, but if you perservere, you will get good
actually, drifting IS D1 and Video Option...but those guys crash alot less because they're professionals. they've been doing it for a long time and are good at it. like i said before, drifting and crashing go hand in hand. it's not a matter of "if", it's a matter of "when". especially when you first start out and are learning, you will crash. this is a way of drifting life. if you don't want to crash, then drifting is not for you.
One more thing I felt I had to add....
Drifting is not Initial D, or D1 or Video Option or Super Street...
You will spin, you will crash, you will blow something..It's a fact of life..if you havent spun out, theres something wrong....This is what will keep the riceboys out...once they crash and blow theyre 6k paintjob, they wont wanna do it....It's hard, but if you perservere, you will get good
actually, drifting IS D1 and Video Option...but those guys crash alot less because they're professionals. they've been doing it for a long time and are good at it. like i said before, drifting and crashing go hand in hand. it's not a matter of "if", it's a matter of "when". especially when you first start out and are learning, you will crash. this is a way of drifting life. if you don't want to crash, then drifting is not for you.
J SPEC SilEighty
03-23-2003, 08:32 AM
Where can I buy the Silvia front end conversion?
---S13 silvia conversion---
www.unstable-hybrids.com
www.silviashop.com
www.afterdark-tuning.com
www.spriso.com/s13.htm
www.sr20parts.com
---S15 silvia conversion---
www.afterdark-tuning.com
www.importfan.com
www.takakaira.com
cant think of any others right now :o
---S13 silvia conversion---
www.unstable-hybrids.com
www.silviashop.com
www.afterdark-tuning.com
www.spriso.com/s13.htm
www.sr20parts.com
---S15 silvia conversion---
www.afterdark-tuning.com
www.importfan.com
www.takakaira.com
cant think of any others right now :o
Suislide
03-23-2003, 11:37 AM
Originally posted by J SPEC SilEighty
Where can I buy the Silvia front end conversion?
---S13 silvia conversion---
www.unstable-hybrids.com
www.silviashop.com
www.afterdark-tuning.com
www.spriso.com/s13.htm
www.sr20parts.com
---S15 silvia conversion---
www.afterdark-tuning.com
www.importfan.com
www.takakaira.com
cant think of any others right now :o
www.h4.dion.ne.jp/~west-y/
for the S15 conversions, go straight to the source. company is called West Yokohama and make kits specially designed to fit an S13 chassis. they can be bought at www.takakaira.com.
Where can I buy the Silvia front end conversion?
---S13 silvia conversion---
www.unstable-hybrids.com
www.silviashop.com
www.afterdark-tuning.com
www.spriso.com/s13.htm
www.sr20parts.com
---S15 silvia conversion---
www.afterdark-tuning.com
www.importfan.com
www.takakaira.com
cant think of any others right now :o
www.h4.dion.ne.jp/~west-y/
for the S15 conversions, go straight to the source. company is called West Yokohama and make kits specially designed to fit an S13 chassis. they can be bought at www.takakaira.com.
SR20DETpower
03-24-2003, 10:06 AM
heres some info I wrote while back about good starting points to modify the SR20DET..... this would be useful for the beginner to understand some simple concepts. Those looking for information about some first mods that are effective to take after having done a SR20DET swap.
One of the first places to start is the intake. A nice filter can give you decent hp gains and is highly recromended on turbo cars. For those of you with extreme HP applications you might want to check out putting on a 300zx(z32 chassis) Mass Airflow Meter, along with more fuel delivery. With your upgraded ECU this will be able to measure more air when boost is cranked up and your car will be better tuned.
After you car can inhale a bit better, now you need to let it exhale better. On turbo vehicles a good setup exhaust is key to hp gains. Mandrel bent and not crushed bent exhaust tubing with a large diameter will give you the best hp gains. You want to reduce back pressure, in other words the less restrictions your exhaust gasses run into, the more power you will make. You have four main pieces on your exaust setup, one isn't much worry on stock turbo setup, the Turbo outlet pipe from turbo to downpipe. Then comes the downpipe, the cat, and catback exhaust tubing.
So now you might be turning up your boost, higher compressed air is at a higher temperature. To cool off your inlet air can give you more power, an Intercooler is used to do this. The main type is Air to Air cooling, which we see on just about all cars, the most popular being the Front Mount Intercooler. The Stock sr20det side mount intercooler is just fine for stock boost levels. For more efficency, more money, and more customization can give you an Air to Water Intercooler, they work a bit better then your Air to Air intercoolers, much more complex...about everyone uses Air to Air intercoolers for street usage. You can use too big of an intercooler, most have effeciency ratings, one that is too big, and rated for hp that you don't have is only going to hurt your performance, so get what you need, too big is too bad in this department.
Now you may want to do some more advanced mods to your intake system to get better performance. Intercooler piping is one thing to look at, The shorter your overall piping is the quicker your boost will come on and throttle response will be better. You may also want to install a Blow Off Valve onto your piping, this lets out the compressed air in your system when the throttle body closes, the advantage to this is better boost after a shift and longer turbo life. When the throttle body closes the boost is sent back to the turbo and can cause compressor surge in the turbo and harm it. With a Blow Off Valve it lets the compressed air out of the turbo piping when the throttle body is closed, this way it does not send air back to the turbo. Also Intake Plenums can give you more HP, the "log" style is nice on higher hp applications, it has shorter runners onto a big plenium. The stock "long runner" style produces more bottom end torque then high end HP due to its design.
One of the first places to start is the intake. A nice filter can give you decent hp gains and is highly recromended on turbo cars. For those of you with extreme HP applications you might want to check out putting on a 300zx(z32 chassis) Mass Airflow Meter, along with more fuel delivery. With your upgraded ECU this will be able to measure more air when boost is cranked up and your car will be better tuned.
After you car can inhale a bit better, now you need to let it exhale better. On turbo vehicles a good setup exhaust is key to hp gains. Mandrel bent and not crushed bent exhaust tubing with a large diameter will give you the best hp gains. You want to reduce back pressure, in other words the less restrictions your exhaust gasses run into, the more power you will make. You have four main pieces on your exaust setup, one isn't much worry on stock turbo setup, the Turbo outlet pipe from turbo to downpipe. Then comes the downpipe, the cat, and catback exhaust tubing.
So now you might be turning up your boost, higher compressed air is at a higher temperature. To cool off your inlet air can give you more power, an Intercooler is used to do this. The main type is Air to Air cooling, which we see on just about all cars, the most popular being the Front Mount Intercooler. The Stock sr20det side mount intercooler is just fine for stock boost levels. For more efficency, more money, and more customization can give you an Air to Water Intercooler, they work a bit better then your Air to Air intercoolers, much more complex...about everyone uses Air to Air intercoolers for street usage. You can use too big of an intercooler, most have effeciency ratings, one that is too big, and rated for hp that you don't have is only going to hurt your performance, so get what you need, too big is too bad in this department.
Now you may want to do some more advanced mods to your intake system to get better performance. Intercooler piping is one thing to look at, The shorter your overall piping is the quicker your boost will come on and throttle response will be better. You may also want to install a Blow Off Valve onto your piping, this lets out the compressed air in your system when the throttle body closes, the advantage to this is better boost after a shift and longer turbo life. When the throttle body closes the boost is sent back to the turbo and can cause compressor surge in the turbo and harm it. With a Blow Off Valve it lets the compressed air out of the turbo piping when the throttle body is closed, this way it does not send air back to the turbo. Also Intake Plenums can give you more HP, the "log" style is nice on higher hp applications, it has shorter runners onto a big plenium. The stock "long runner" style produces more bottom end torque then high end HP due to its design.
Suislide
03-24-2003, 02:53 PM
SR20DET or KA-T?
this IS NOT, i repeat, IS NOT a question that can be answered in an FAQ. it depends on many personal factors. what do you plan to do with the car? if drag racing is your forte, or you just want cheap power, then a KA-T might be the best route. if you're going for track/drifting, then the SR is the perfect engine for you. it also depends on how much you're willing to spend. so please, don't start any more "which engine?" threads. we've had too many, and it's too opinionated a topic to get you any realistic answers. half the people on here like KA-T's, half are SR freaks.
this IS NOT, i repeat, IS NOT a question that can be answered in an FAQ. it depends on many personal factors. what do you plan to do with the car? if drag racing is your forte, or you just want cheap power, then a KA-T might be the best route. if you're going for track/drifting, then the SR is the perfect engine for you. it also depends on how much you're willing to spend. so please, don't start any more "which engine?" threads. we've had too many, and it's too opinionated a topic to get you any realistic answers. half the people on here like KA-T's, half are SR freaks.
Fliquer
03-25-2003, 06:12 AM
SR20DETpower that is a very informative reply you have.
I think it would be best to replace the stock injectors, plugs, oil pump, and fuel pump before upgrading the intercooler. If you plan on track racing, definitely get a strong oil cooler. A big problem that most tuners forget to address is engine cooling.
I think it would be best to replace the stock injectors, plugs, oil pump, and fuel pump before upgrading the intercooler. If you plan on track racing, definitely get a strong oil cooler. A big problem that most tuners forget to address is engine cooling.
ghostchild316
03-26-2003, 04:27 PM
What about the 300zx brake/5 lug conversion?I noticed nobody mentioned it plus I'm interested in doing this to my car.
What parts are required,modifications that have to be done?etc.
What parts are required,modifications that have to be done?etc.
SR20DETpower
03-27-2003, 07:41 AM
well if u have a S13 just stick with the 4 lugs.... get your rotors drilled for that or some websites even sell 300zx rotors predilled for 4 lug 240sx's. Its not impossible to find good 4 lug wheels either.... good wheels require spending money..... most of those wheels are very customizable in their offsets/lug pattern/width/heigth.....
Dorikin
03-27-2003, 12:29 PM
Also a WISE idea to get a Shop manual for your USDM 240sx and if possible, a shop manual for a UKDM/EuroDM/JDM/AussieDM 200SX/180SX
I have them on PDF/Zip and theyre avalible for d/l on many Nissan sites
I have them on PDF/Zip and theyre avalible for d/l on many Nissan sites
Fliquer
03-27-2003, 05:15 PM
The 5-lug conversion is a lengthy and tedious install. A lot of people talk about it, but in reality, its much more practical to stick with 4-lugs and just get some aftermarket brakes.
Why would a SR be a bitch for maintenance?
Why would a SR be a bitch for maintenance?
Dorikin
03-28-2003, 12:10 PM
Wel, assuming you take your car to a dealer, they wouldnt know about it.
Parts may also take a long time to come assuming you order them.
Is it just be or do you argue with EVERYTHING i say....
Parts may also take a long time to come assuming you order them.
Is it just be or do you argue with EVERYTHING i say....
ghostchild316
03-29-2003, 07:16 AM
What about the 300zx calipers?
Fliquer
03-29-2003, 01:23 PM
I think you need to do the conversion to put on the calipers.
SR20DETpower
03-29-2003, 01:31 PM
I think srswap.com sells 4 lug 300zx brembo rotors... they drill them for our 4 lug pattern.... that way u don't need to do any sort of swapping ecxept for the calipers and brake lines.
ghostchild316
03-30-2003, 10:28 PM
The 300zx brake conversion is a cheaper alternative for better stopping power then buying actual high performance calipers/rotors(Ahem,not all of us have alot of money just lying around...)
This IS a "FAQ" and my "Q's" were not really answered.More like everybody just gave their opinion...
Has anybody in here done the conversion to their car?Yes?NO?Can anybody help me?I'll take any USEFUL info.
Nobody here in wichita has done this YET so...
This IS a "FAQ" and my "Q's" were not really answered.More like everybody just gave their opinion...
Has anybody in here done the conversion to their car?Yes?NO?Can anybody help me?I'll take any USEFUL info.
Nobody here in wichita has done this YET so...
Sandhawk
04-01-2003, 10:09 PM
RB20/25/26DET swaps/clips/ + installation packages
http://240skyline.nissanpower.com
http://afterdark-tuning.com
R32 RB20DET
220hp 2.0L Inline 6 Turbo
Automatic or 5-speed manual
R33 RB25DET
250 HP 2.5L Inline 6 Turbo
Automatic or 5-speed manual
R32 RB26DETT
280 HP 2.6L Inline 6 Twin-Turbo
Automatic or 6-speed manual
Also has anyone experimented drifting with an RB I havent heard to much on drifting the RB vs the SR and Im very curious about it.
http://240skyline.nissanpower.com
http://afterdark-tuning.com
R32 RB20DET
220hp 2.0L Inline 6 Turbo
Automatic or 5-speed manual
R33 RB25DET
250 HP 2.5L Inline 6 Turbo
Automatic or 5-speed manual
R32 RB26DETT
280 HP 2.6L Inline 6 Twin-Turbo
Automatic or 6-speed manual
Also has anyone experimented drifting with an RB I havent heard to much on drifting the RB vs the SR and Im very curious about it.
S14Kyle
04-02-2003, 07:58 PM
Alright, well, I didn't quite understand the emissions on an SR in America. Sorry if I'm making you repeat yourself. Does the 1998 SR20DET pass emissions in a 1998 240SX with the american cat? If it doesn't pass, how would one go about making it pass?
thanks guys,
hope you can help
(add any information you want)
thanks guys,
hope you can help
(add any information you want)
Dorikin
04-02-2003, 08:39 PM
Good Luck!
SR is VERY smoggy
Just keep the cat on and pray it passes...BTW S14 cat is a dummy, on the KA the cat is in the header...u need an S13 cat
SR is VERY smoggy
Just keep the cat on and pray it passes...BTW S14 cat is a dummy, on the KA the cat is in the header...u need an S13 cat
S14Kyle
04-02-2003, 09:16 PM
Thanks man. More question:
What is a surefire way I could get the SR into my 98 240 and have it pass? And about how much would it cost?
Edit:
Also, keeping the horsepower at decent figures with the modifications, something permanent that I could keep on the 240 to pass emissions over and over again.
What is a surefire way I could get the SR into my 98 240 and have it pass? And about how much would it cost?
Edit:
Also, keeping the horsepower at decent figures with the modifications, something permanent that I could keep on the 240 to pass emissions over and over again.
turbo2nr
04-03-2003, 03:01 PM
How much does a standard sr20det swap cost?
well i know some of you would like 2 know how much a sr20det will cost so here is a price prakedown on a standard swap(str8 form heavy throttle.com)
Engine Install
Below is a typical listing of the expenses you should expect to pay to have the engine installed.
SR20DET engine, including ECU, MAFS, CAS, stock clutch, 5 speed trans. $2500 (S14 $3600, S15 $5500)
Engine and trans delivery $150-$250
Intercooler kit with piping $799
Hot IC pipe w/ BOV and flange $299
3" Downpipe $129-$159
K&N-style Cone filter with MAF adapter $55
Walbro Hi Flow Fuel pump $119
SVR Slim Battery $109
Electric Fan and Thermostat $149-$249
Clutch Kit $319-$345
Labor - Including Install of above $1500
Total $6128
hope this clears up how much a good sr20det swap will cost!
1
well i know some of you would like 2 know how much a sr20det will cost so here is a price prakedown on a standard swap(str8 form heavy throttle.com)
Engine Install
Below is a typical listing of the expenses you should expect to pay to have the engine installed.
SR20DET engine, including ECU, MAFS, CAS, stock clutch, 5 speed trans. $2500 (S14 $3600, S15 $5500)
Engine and trans delivery $150-$250
Intercooler kit with piping $799
Hot IC pipe w/ BOV and flange $299
3" Downpipe $129-$159
K&N-style Cone filter with MAF adapter $55
Walbro Hi Flow Fuel pump $119
SVR Slim Battery $109
Electric Fan and Thermostat $149-$249
Clutch Kit $319-$345
Labor - Including Install of above $1500
Total $6128
hope this clears up how much a good sr20det swap will cost!
1
Fliquer
04-04-2003, 11:01 AM
At JK motorsports in Greenville, NC you can get a full S13 swap with labor, shiping, everything needed for $3900
Suislide
04-04-2003, 11:23 AM
Originally posted by Fliquer
At JK motorsports in Greenville, NC you can get a full S13 swap with labor, shiping, everything needed for $3900
i think there's quite a few places that charge alot less then $6128. just do research, check out websites, go to places, call people, and find the best deal possible. but remember, when it comes to engines, as it is with almost everything in life, you get what you pay for, so don't buy an engine just because it's the cheapest one you can find.
At JK motorsports in Greenville, NC you can get a full S13 swap with labor, shiping, everything needed for $3900
i think there's quite a few places that charge alot less then $6128. just do research, check out websites, go to places, call people, and find the best deal possible. but remember, when it comes to engines, as it is with almost everything in life, you get what you pay for, so don't buy an engine just because it's the cheapest one you can find.
turbo2nr
04-04-2003, 11:52 AM
i was just giving a idear of what are some key parts that might be need to do the sr swap and how much they go for but yes you can get it done cheaper i know a place that charges only $600 for the labor on a sr20det swap!
but like s-13 iketian said you get what you pay for!
1
but like s-13 iketian said you get what you pay for!
1
Dorikin
04-05-2003, 04:27 PM
VLSD means Viscous Limited Slip Differential.... :rolleyes:
95_SX_SE
04-05-2003, 06:24 PM
What about KA-T passing emissions in the US? Is that easier than SR?
Also, what is the most street legal power you can get out of a non turbo KA (no internal mods)?
Also, what is the most street legal power you can get out of a non turbo KA (no internal mods)?
Suislide
04-05-2003, 06:36 PM
Originally posted by 95_SX_SE
What about KA-T passing emissions in the US? Is that easier than SR?
Also, what is the most street legal power you can get out of a non turbo KA (no internal mods)?
as long as it passed smog without the turbo, it probably will with the turbo. it's the same with any engine over here. take a honda engine for instance. you turbo it, it'll still pass. so the KA-T will too. it's tuned to our standards. since the SR wasn't tuned to be sold over here, it won't pass easily.
What about KA-T passing emissions in the US? Is that easier than SR?
Also, what is the most street legal power you can get out of a non turbo KA (no internal mods)?
as long as it passed smog without the turbo, it probably will with the turbo. it's the same with any engine over here. take a honda engine for instance. you turbo it, it'll still pass. so the KA-T will too. it's tuned to our standards. since the SR wasn't tuned to be sold over here, it won't pass easily.
too-cool-2
04-09-2003, 06:16 PM
all this talk about 240's and little mention of the rb engines??? ok. i guess ill have to drop in my 2 cents
rb engines kick ass...have been known to withstand 4-digit power numbers with the stock bottom end...
(taken from http://240skyline.nissanpower.com/custom.html )
Q: What are advantages of the RB25DET over the SR20DET?
A: The RB25DET is an inline six built of practically a bullet proof block. It can handle more boost than the SR in stock trim. It is also capable of a lot more HP than the SR and has a lot more torque to start out with. The average black top SR puts 181-185 HP to the Rear wheels, whereas the average RB25DET puts 240-248 HP to the rear wheels. Simple upgrades on the RB can get you over 400 RWHP and with the right tires can put you into the 10's for the 1/4 mile if you boost and tune correctly.
Q: What is required to make the RB25DET fit into a 240SX?
A: All that is needed is the clip, driveline, tools, patience, and parts for extending/crimping wires.
Q: Do the RB parts interchange with any US-Spec Nissan cars?
A: Yes, in fact, the RB25DET uses the same clutch as the 300ZX Non-turbo. It also shares the same spark plugs, oil filter, and ignition coils.
Q: What extra parts do you recommend with the swap?
A: I recommend getting dual power fans to help with cooling, a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump to supply sufficient fuel, a new air filter for better breathability, NGK Iridium spark plugs for better spark and more HP, a decent sized downpipe and exhaust for better breathability and airflow, a new clutch for longevity and better grip, and a LSD so you are not burning rubber all the way down the track.
Q: Where can I get aftermarket support for the RB?
A: Aftermarket support can be found through me for both new and used parts. Other places are starting to stock parts for the RB swaps such as After-Dark Tuning. Other companies that carry brands such as Greddy, Apexi, HKS, and Blitz can order the parts for you from Japan.
Q: What modifications are necessary to the 240SX?
A: To make the engine fit properly with stock mounts, you will have to accomodate a few things.
1) As with any turbo swap, you will need to cut holes for intercooler piping.
2) You will need to shave (using a dremel or similar tool) a small portion of the turbo manifold that connects to the downpipe. This is necessary for steering rack clearance and does no harm as long as you do not shave too much off.
3) You will need to make approximately a 6" cut of the hood skeleton to achieve hood clearance (which isn't visible from outside the car).
4) You will need either a RB25DET driveshaft or a custom one made to fit the RB25DET engine.
Q: How difficult is the swap?
A: The swap, in my opinion, is fairly easy. Anyone who knows how to take something apart and put it back together again can do this swap. It is a simple plug and play with a few small modifications that are listed above. This was the first swap I ever attempted with no prior knowledge of how to swap engines.
Q: How difficult is the RB25DET to wire?
A: When I wired my car, I kept my 240SX interior harness (runs dash, headlights, tail lights, etc...) and got rid of the KA engine harness and ECU. I replaced that harness with the engine harness and ECU from the RB25DET. I then had to extend wires for the Gauge cluster and Ignition so that they would reach the LHD side of the car. I then integrated 5 wires from each of the harnesses ignition systems and made a power terminal where both harnesses were attached at the front of the car so that they would each receive power.
Q: Is it true that you have to cut into the firewall or extend your front end?
A: No, there is no need for cutting into the firewall or extending the front end. If you wish to use the stock engine fan that attaches to the fan clutch assembly, you will have to re-locate your radiator or extend the front end. This is why I recommend power fans for extra cooling.
Q: Can you use the Stock RB25DET mounts?
A: Yes, the stock engine mounts are bolted to the stock crossmember which shares the same bolt pattern as the KA crossmember when bolting up to the 240SX chassis. The tranny mount can be used, but must be taken off and flipped backwards. After you do this, you should add a spacer 1.5" thick made out of anything such as wood, metal, plastic, rubber, etc... as long as it will not collapse.
Q: What do you use for cooling the RB?
A: I use my stock 240SX radiator and haev no problems. The RB radiators can be used, but modifications must be made for it to fit into the 240SX as it is about 2.5" higher than the stock 240SX radiator. If you are worried about overheating problems, fluidyne radiators are a good option.
Q: Is the RB25DET a reliable engine?
A: Yes, if it was not reliable, do you think Nissan would have put it into their signature car...the Skyline? It is the engine series out of their best cars and is daily driven in Japan.
Q: Would the RB25DET make a good daily driver?
A: Mine makes an excellent daily driver running low 13's to mid 12's on street tires. It handles well and has great acceleration. Think about this: are Corvettes good daily driving cars? They have over 300HP and are fairly lightweight for their size and design.
Q: What kind of gas mileage can the RB25DET get?
A: My car got 28-30 mpg highway and 25-26 in town before I fried my turbo. I am not sure if this is average for these engines or if mine just runs exceptionally well.
(taken from http://240skyline.nissanpower.com/custom.html )
visit http://240skyline.nissanpower.com/custom.html for other info.
rb engines kick ass...have been known to withstand 4-digit power numbers with the stock bottom end...
(taken from http://240skyline.nissanpower.com/custom.html )
Q: What are advantages of the RB25DET over the SR20DET?
A: The RB25DET is an inline six built of practically a bullet proof block. It can handle more boost than the SR in stock trim. It is also capable of a lot more HP than the SR and has a lot more torque to start out with. The average black top SR puts 181-185 HP to the Rear wheels, whereas the average RB25DET puts 240-248 HP to the rear wheels. Simple upgrades on the RB can get you over 400 RWHP and with the right tires can put you into the 10's for the 1/4 mile if you boost and tune correctly.
Q: What is required to make the RB25DET fit into a 240SX?
A: All that is needed is the clip, driveline, tools, patience, and parts for extending/crimping wires.
Q: Do the RB parts interchange with any US-Spec Nissan cars?
A: Yes, in fact, the RB25DET uses the same clutch as the 300ZX Non-turbo. It also shares the same spark plugs, oil filter, and ignition coils.
Q: What extra parts do you recommend with the swap?
A: I recommend getting dual power fans to help with cooling, a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump to supply sufficient fuel, a new air filter for better breathability, NGK Iridium spark plugs for better spark and more HP, a decent sized downpipe and exhaust for better breathability and airflow, a new clutch for longevity and better grip, and a LSD so you are not burning rubber all the way down the track.
Q: Where can I get aftermarket support for the RB?
A: Aftermarket support can be found through me for both new and used parts. Other places are starting to stock parts for the RB swaps such as After-Dark Tuning. Other companies that carry brands such as Greddy, Apexi, HKS, and Blitz can order the parts for you from Japan.
Q: What modifications are necessary to the 240SX?
A: To make the engine fit properly with stock mounts, you will have to accomodate a few things.
1) As with any turbo swap, you will need to cut holes for intercooler piping.
2) You will need to shave (using a dremel or similar tool) a small portion of the turbo manifold that connects to the downpipe. This is necessary for steering rack clearance and does no harm as long as you do not shave too much off.
3) You will need to make approximately a 6" cut of the hood skeleton to achieve hood clearance (which isn't visible from outside the car).
4) You will need either a RB25DET driveshaft or a custom one made to fit the RB25DET engine.
Q: How difficult is the swap?
A: The swap, in my opinion, is fairly easy. Anyone who knows how to take something apart and put it back together again can do this swap. It is a simple plug and play with a few small modifications that are listed above. This was the first swap I ever attempted with no prior knowledge of how to swap engines.
Q: How difficult is the RB25DET to wire?
A: When I wired my car, I kept my 240SX interior harness (runs dash, headlights, tail lights, etc...) and got rid of the KA engine harness and ECU. I replaced that harness with the engine harness and ECU from the RB25DET. I then had to extend wires for the Gauge cluster and Ignition so that they would reach the LHD side of the car. I then integrated 5 wires from each of the harnesses ignition systems and made a power terminal where both harnesses were attached at the front of the car so that they would each receive power.
Q: Is it true that you have to cut into the firewall or extend your front end?
A: No, there is no need for cutting into the firewall or extending the front end. If you wish to use the stock engine fan that attaches to the fan clutch assembly, you will have to re-locate your radiator or extend the front end. This is why I recommend power fans for extra cooling.
Q: Can you use the Stock RB25DET mounts?
A: Yes, the stock engine mounts are bolted to the stock crossmember which shares the same bolt pattern as the KA crossmember when bolting up to the 240SX chassis. The tranny mount can be used, but must be taken off and flipped backwards. After you do this, you should add a spacer 1.5" thick made out of anything such as wood, metal, plastic, rubber, etc... as long as it will not collapse.
Q: What do you use for cooling the RB?
A: I use my stock 240SX radiator and haev no problems. The RB radiators can be used, but modifications must be made for it to fit into the 240SX as it is about 2.5" higher than the stock 240SX radiator. If you are worried about overheating problems, fluidyne radiators are a good option.
Q: Is the RB25DET a reliable engine?
A: Yes, if it was not reliable, do you think Nissan would have put it into their signature car...the Skyline? It is the engine series out of their best cars and is daily driven in Japan.
Q: Would the RB25DET make a good daily driver?
A: Mine makes an excellent daily driver running low 13's to mid 12's on street tires. It handles well and has great acceleration. Think about this: are Corvettes good daily driving cars? They have over 300HP and are fairly lightweight for their size and design.
Q: What kind of gas mileage can the RB25DET get?
A: My car got 28-30 mpg highway and 25-26 in town before I fried my turbo. I am not sure if this is average for these engines or if mine just runs exceptionally well.
(taken from http://240skyline.nissanpower.com/custom.html )
visit http://240skyline.nissanpower.com/custom.html for other info.
SR20DETpower
04-11-2003, 08:02 PM
KA24DE has almost the same displacement. Its not an exotic engine or even a RB.....but it has good potential for most people..... and I bet it isn't that hard to get 500rwhp on a KA-T, I think it has been done before stateside. with a t3/t4 turbo even non intercooled on say 6psi of boost might get u 225rwhp.... with tons of room for improvements... a turbo'd KA isn't far behind RB..... even though the RB has the potential for more then 500rwhp...... most of us will never own a 240sx with over 500hp.
too-cool-2
04-14-2003, 08:57 AM
the rb swap isnt all that expensive, usually i found prices from 7000-10000, that includes the engine.
i just got some bad news on saturday when i went to the shop, im missing 50hp??? it dissapeared! oh well, ill just have to find the problem, but for now, its only 448 wheel hp.
oh yeah, the reason a rb can stand up to more power is because it has 2 extra main bearings compared to a ka (7 rather than 5)
i just got some bad news on saturday when i went to the shop, im missing 50hp??? it dissapeared! oh well, ill just have to find the problem, but for now, its only 448 wheel hp.
oh yeah, the reason a rb can stand up to more power is because it has 2 extra main bearings compared to a ka (7 rather than 5)
SR20DETpower
04-22-2003, 07:09 AM
I would be happy with a KA24(D)ET.
Give me some forged pistons
a T3/T4
3" exhaust
Spearco Intercooler
SDS stand alone
TIAL wastegate and BOV
some cams
and 25psi of boost hehe
that would be more then enough for me =)
Give me some forged pistons
a T3/T4
3" exhaust
Spearco Intercooler
SDS stand alone
TIAL wastegate and BOV
some cams
and 25psi of boost hehe
that would be more then enough for me =)
Twyzz
04-24-2003, 08:51 PM
Which 240 has the bigger engine bay? the 90-94 or the 95-99 or w/e.
ghostchild316
04-24-2003, 10:56 PM
I think they're all about the same size.
I've seen an LT-1 in an S13 and a RB26DE(T) in an S14.They all just about accept the same engines.
With money anything is possible;)
Hope that helps some:)
I've seen an LT-1 in an S13 and a RB26DE(T) in an S14.They all just about accept the same engines.
With money anything is possible;)
Hope that helps some:)
SiRI
04-27-2003, 10:42 PM
How about some nice "One stop" parts websites that has lists of KA24 parts, and not 90% SR20DET parts! I cant find SHIT for my KA
ghostchild316
04-28-2003, 09:51 PM
www.realnissan.com
Re037
06-20-2003, 06:55 PM
Originally posted by S13_Iketani
as long as it passed smog without the turbo, it probably will with the turbo. it's the same with any engine over here. take a honda engine for instance. you turbo it, it'll still pass. so the KA-T will too. it's tuned to our standards. since the SR wasn't tuned to be sold over here, it won't pass easily.
not in california, unless you slip some cash under the table. over here, we like to do both the sniffer test and visual test. ie, they see a rather large turbo, it better have a CARB number :frown:
as long as it passed smog without the turbo, it probably will with the turbo. it's the same with any engine over here. take a honda engine for instance. you turbo it, it'll still pass. so the KA-T will too. it's tuned to our standards. since the SR wasn't tuned to be sold over here, it won't pass easily.
not in california, unless you slip some cash under the table. over here, we like to do both the sniffer test and visual test. ie, they see a rather large turbo, it better have a CARB number :frown:
R.W.240
06-22-2003, 06:49 PM
I want to get into drifting and was wondering if the 240 91-94 driveline is one of the areas that I should have alot spares for. and/or what are some of the areas your probably going to need to replace alot. (besides tires)
Suislide
06-22-2003, 07:33 PM
Originally posted by R.W.240
I want to get into drifting and was wondering if the 240 91-94 driveline is one of the areas that I should have alot spares for. and/or what are some of the areas your probably going to need to replace alot. (besides tires)
driveline? you might need to replace the clutch fairly often...it get's alot of use in drifting. tires and rims are obvious. might want to have an extra bumper in case you chuff something, and zip-ties are ALWAYS your friend. :bigthumb:
I want to get into drifting and was wondering if the 240 91-94 driveline is one of the areas that I should have alot spares for. and/or what are some of the areas your probably going to need to replace alot. (besides tires)
driveline? you might need to replace the clutch fairly often...it get's alot of use in drifting. tires and rims are obvious. might want to have an extra bumper in case you chuff something, and zip-ties are ALWAYS your friend. :bigthumb:
friday86
06-23-2003, 12:41 AM
So how fast would a 89-94 240SX run with a SR-T?
How fast with a KA-T? Both stock engines, no mods, just stock intercooler, turbo, etc.
How fast with a KA-T? Both stock engines, no mods, just stock intercooler, turbo, etc.
S14Kyle
06-23-2003, 12:33 PM
Originally posted by friday86
So how fast would a 89-94 240SX run with a SR-T?
How fast with a KA-T? Both stock engines, no mods, just stock intercooler, turbo, etc.
KA-T doesn't come stock, thus the KA doesn't come with intercooler, stock, or a turbo, stock.
So how fast would a 89-94 240SX run with a SR-T?
How fast with a KA-T? Both stock engines, no mods, just stock intercooler, turbo, etc.
KA-T doesn't come stock, thus the KA doesn't come with intercooler, stock, or a turbo, stock.
friday86
06-24-2003, 12:11 AM
Well... okay then, so how fast would a SR-T in a 92 240SX hit in 1/4 mile? Would a KA-T be faster than the SR-T?
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