240sx FAQ: READ BEFORE POSTING, NEWBIE!!!
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1 [2]
TheLogikal1
06-24-2003, 12:25 AM
Originally posted by friday86
Well... okay then, so how fast would a SR-T in a 92 240SX hit in 1/4 mile? Would a KA-T be faster than the SR-T?
dude, that is a really vague question. give us some more details bro
Well... okay then, so how fast would a SR-T in a 92 240SX hit in 1/4 mile? Would a KA-T be faster than the SR-T?
dude, that is a really vague question. give us some more details bro
S14Kyle
06-24-2003, 03:57 PM
Originally posted by friday86
Well... okay then, so how fast would a SR-T in a 92 240SX hit in 1/4 mile? Would a KA-T be faster than the SR-T?
Alright, it seems to me that you understand, so I'll answer your question...
The SR20DET (the engine that comes in the "Silvia" {the real name of the 240SX} in japan), stock would lose to a KA24DE-T stock, with the same equipment that is used on the turbos on an SR20DET, such as the turbo, the intercooler, along with other things. See, the KA24DE does not COME with a turbo, ANYWHERE. People add a turbo to the KA24DE and add a "T" to the end to represent this fact.
Well... okay then, so how fast would a SR-T in a 92 240SX hit in 1/4 mile? Would a KA-T be faster than the SR-T?
Alright, it seems to me that you understand, so I'll answer your question...
The SR20DET (the engine that comes in the "Silvia" {the real name of the 240SX} in japan), stock would lose to a KA24DE-T stock, with the same equipment that is used on the turbos on an SR20DET, such as the turbo, the intercooler, along with other things. See, the KA24DE does not COME with a turbo, ANYWHERE. People add a turbo to the KA24DE and add a "T" to the end to represent this fact.
I want a 240sx
06-24-2003, 09:39 PM
S13 Black Top SR20DET is the engine i was thinking of putting in a 97+ US 240sx. Would this work???? Also after this i was going to turbo charge it. Would this overdo it or it would be fine?? Sorry am a car noob hoping to learn more about cars here:smile: :smile: :bigthumb:
Suislide
06-24-2003, 10:42 PM
Originally posted by I want a 240sx
S13 Black Top SR20DET is the engine i was thinking of putting in a 97+ US 240sx. Would this work???? Also after this i was going to turbo charge it. Would this overdo it or it would be fine?? Sorry am a car noob hoping to learn more about cars here:smile: :smile: :bigthumb:
oh...my....god...
read the rest of this FAQ, as well as every other shred of Silvia/240SX/Sr20DET knowledge you can find ASAP.
first of all, any SR20DET will fit into any US 240SX. the S13 blacktop is exactly the same as the red-top, so if the red top fits, the black top fits.
and here's the biggie...are you ready?...THE SR20DET IS ALREADY TURBOCHARGED!!! do you see the "T" on the end of the engine code? that stands for "turbo". please read up as much as possible before starting this project if that's the limit of your knowledge. if you meant UPGRADING the turbo, then that's a different story.
S13 Black Top SR20DET is the engine i was thinking of putting in a 97+ US 240sx. Would this work???? Also after this i was going to turbo charge it. Would this overdo it or it would be fine?? Sorry am a car noob hoping to learn more about cars here:smile: :smile: :bigthumb:
oh...my....god...
read the rest of this FAQ, as well as every other shred of Silvia/240SX/Sr20DET knowledge you can find ASAP.
first of all, any SR20DET will fit into any US 240SX. the S13 blacktop is exactly the same as the red-top, so if the red top fits, the black top fits.
and here's the biggie...are you ready?...THE SR20DET IS ALREADY TURBOCHARGED!!! do you see the "T" on the end of the engine code? that stands for "turbo". please read up as much as possible before starting this project if that's the limit of your knowledge. if you meant UPGRADING the turbo, then that's a different story.
friday86
06-24-2003, 11:04 PM
Ahhh... Okay, thanks ya'll. :biggrin:
friday86
06-24-2003, 11:06 PM
So which would you consider? KA-T or SR-T? Or RB25DET?
Suislide
06-24-2003, 11:34 PM
Originally posted by friday86
So which would you consider? KA-T or SR-T? Or RB25DET?
questions like these go in the "240SX FAQ Suggestion Box" thread, not in the FAQ itself.
So which would you consider? KA-T or SR-T? Or RB25DET?
questions like these go in the "240SX FAQ Suggestion Box" thread, not in the FAQ itself.
Fliquer
06-24-2003, 11:37 PM
Dunno if this has been covered:
Putting a redtop SR into a 91-94 S13, will you be able to re-use your ac components?
Putting a redtop SR into a 91-94 S13, will you be able to re-use your ac components?
Suislide
06-25-2003, 12:00 AM
Originally posted by Fliquer
Dunno if this has been covered:
Putting a redtop SR into a 91-94 S13, will you be able to re-use your ac components?
can you clarify that a bit?
GUYS! PLEASE POST QUESTIONS IN THE SUGGESTION BOX! that's what it's there for. questions will be asked and answered and the good answers will be moved here. thanks.
Dunno if this has been covered:
Putting a redtop SR into a 91-94 S13, will you be able to re-use your ac components?
can you clarify that a bit?
GUYS! PLEASE POST QUESTIONS IN THE SUGGESTION BOX! that's what it's there for. questions will be asked and answered and the good answers will be moved here. thanks.
ringthree
07-01-2003, 08:36 AM
I would like to add another company that imports sr20's and rb's. They also import a ton of other engines for other cars.
http://www.tpautomotive.com/
http://www.tpautomotive.com/
too-cool-2
07-01-2003, 10:49 AM
Originally posted by ringthree
I would like to add another company that imports sr20's and rb's. They also import a ton of other engines for other cars.
http://www.tpautomotive.com/
they even sell the holy grail of 240sx's, a AWD RB26DETT mated to a RWD RB25DET Transmission, allowing you to use the rb26 in a 240.
it sells for like $4900
I would like to add another company that imports sr20's and rb's. They also import a ton of other engines for other cars.
http://www.tpautomotive.com/
they even sell the holy grail of 240sx's, a AWD RB26DETT mated to a RWD RB25DET Transmission, allowing you to use the rb26 in a 240.
it sells for like $4900
ghostchild316
07-15-2003, 05:09 PM
This is good for n00bies especially for the ones that plan on turbocharging a SR20DET after doing the swap:rolleyes:
What is a turbo?
- Essentially a turbo is an exhaust driven air compressor.
What does a turbo do?
- A turbo compresses air into the motor (aka creates boost)
Where is the turbo located?
- The turbo is located immediately after the exhaust manifold.
What does a turbo consist of?
- A turbo mainly consists of:
2 housings (compressor and exhaust)
center section (the lubricating and bearing section)
2 wheels (compressor and exhaust turbine)
shaft (connecting the exhaust turbine to the compressor)
How does a turbo work?
- Exhaust gases exit the cylinder and flow into the exhaust manifold. From there the exhaust gases are diverted towards the exhaust turbine where the combined heat energies and flow velocity spool the wheel. This in turn spins the compressor side of the turbo and it begins to ingest air and create boost.
What is in a turbocharger system?
- Turbo - duh!
- Wastegate - this is a spring loaded valve that opens and closes. It is responsible for maintaining turbine speeds and thus boost pressure. When it is open a good amount of the exhaust gas is diverted away from the turbine, hence the turbo does not spool. When it is closed the exhaust gas is directed towards the turbine and the turbo spools. These can be incorporated into the turbo (internal wastegate) or included in a seperate valve that is incorporated into the exhaust manifold.
- Exhaust Manifold - the design of the manifold is a key to lag reduction... it differs from a normal header in that it generally has short runners to maximize exhaust velocities and thermal energy. One key design factor that can describe the differences in inline 6 and inline 4 manifolds is the inclusion of exhaust pulses. To optimize a boost curve you want to use an equal length manifold system so that you aren't surging the exhaust turbine with 4 pulses per revolution. This can cause boost spiking and boost creep. Other design features are common to n/a headers like runner diameters, extraction, scavenging, etc.
- Intercooler - Compressing air creates heat. This heat is measured as boost temps. Naturally cooler air creates more power simply because it is denser and it allows more consumption of fuel. But the main factor to an intercooler isnt exactly the ability to create a little more power due to lower boost temps, its the fact that the lower boost temps allow more boost. Ex. SR20DET on stock intercooler can run about 10psi max boost before the intercooler becomes ineffective at cooling the extra boost. With a large front mount intercooler from Blitz the SR20DET can now safely run near 29.4 psi (2.0 bar) of boost provided the turbo and motor can hold up to it. A larger intecooler however will increase the area the turbo must fill before the system becomes pressurized... this when measured is refered to as "lag". An intercooler usually consists of bars and fins. Think of a radiator for air.
- Piping - Its piping... runs from turbo compressor housing to intercooler ... out intercooler to the throttle body.
- Downpipe and Exhaust - 3" or larger downpipes and exhaust optimize turbo breathing and allow for better heat extraction, spool up, and longer turbo life. Power also can be boosted considerably top end with a larger diameter system. Beware alot of the gains on a turbo car ... ex. 55whp on a Supra w/ downpipe addition is from boost increase, not the part itself. Generally a downpipe will create 1-3 psi more boost on a stock computered and controlled vehicle. Using a 3" downpipe on stock exhaust is not recommended as it can create boost spiking which can potentially damage a motor, especially if the rpms are low and the motor is still on its low fuel and ignition maps.
- Blow Off Valve (BOV) - Ahhh the ol' noise maker. Ever run a turbo car and hear the loud purge noise created when he/she shifted? Thats due to the BOV. The BOV is similar to the wastegate in operation. It has a vacuum line running to just after the throttle body to sense vacuum. What it does is when it senses strong vacuum (ex. when you close the throttle body in a shift) the valve opens and purges the boost withen the piping. This prevents compressor surging which will damage the turbo very quickly. Compressor surge happens because the turbo is still spinning when the throttle body slams shut. This causes the system to suddenly pressurize itself even more (if the BOV was non-existant or not working) and this surges the turbo causing it to slow down which exerts alot of force on the turbo shaft and other components. To prevent the valve from opening prematurely the spring tension is adjustable via a screw or bolt on top of the BOV.
Corallary to the BOV - Strong debates over wether or not venting to the atmosphere have been going on for years. Venting to the atmosphere on some cars tends to make them stumble because you have purged metered air and the fuel hasnt been purged. So when you blow off the engine suddenly goes rich and you get a nice fireball. Frankly there are no ET / MPH differences that I have noticed between the two. If you are having a stalling or studdering problem with venting atmospherically then you should look into recirculating the air back to the intake after the MAS.
What is Boost?
- Boost is a measurement (in psi) of the backup of air withen the manifold.
The Numbers
Name - There are a ton of turbos ... the name often refers to the size of the turbo. Ex. a T25 is alot smaller than a T88. HKS uses 4 numbers to explain their setups... ex. GT2835 ... this turbo uses a GT28 compressor with a GT30 Exhaust Turbine. Often the T## series turbos are Garret Turbos, such as the stock OEM Nissan turbos and the HKS Turbos. Greddy uses Mitsubishi turbos however and they often turn up as something like this, TD07-25G, this tells us that the turbo uses a TD07 housing and a 25G wheel.
Trim - Trims effect efficiencies... you could compair them to the duration of a cam. The trim effects boost temps and compressor air flow efficiencies at given shaft RPMs. The higher the trim the better the turbo operates at a faster shaft speed. Larger trim turbos such as a T04S (60-1) at highly efficient at higher boost levels but are crappy at lower boost levels, in fact you will hit the compressors surge limit at low boost as well as get boost creep. However a smaller trim will provide better low boost efficiencies. Keep in mind that the trim is a modifier on the compressor/exhaust wheels. Meaning it changes efficiencies at certain boost levels for the same wheel size.
A/R Ratios - Area/Radius Ratio... it describes the size of the housing. A larger a/r will make the turbo spool slower but will provide superior flow and thus more top end power. A smaller a/r does exactly the opposite, it spools the turbo quickly and provides semi-adequate flow. There are so many different a/rs out there that allow you to fine tune what you need out of a turbo.
Turbo Cooling
- Always opt for maximum shaft cooling... this would include water and oil cooling. This makes the turbo live alot longer.
Turbo vs. Supercharger...A few Differences
- Turbos are exhaust driven where as the supercharger is a belt driven device
- Turbos operate at much higher speeds generally ... unless you have some monster turbo
- Turbos can be controlled from withen the car ... no boost pulley change is needed to modify boost pressures
Turbocharging a N/A Car
- Say you have a JapTrap and you want to turbocharge it. Here are the basics to make safe boost.
- Turbo
- Manifold to fit turbo
- Downpipe to exhaust
- Piping
- Intercooler
- ECU Remap
- Larger Injectors
- Larger than OEM Exhaust
- Higher Flowing Fuel Pump
- Oil Lines and Water Lines for Turbo
- Misc. Fittings for Turbo etc.
- Intake for Turbo
- GOOD Hoseclamps
- Silicon Piping Connection Pieces
- Wastegate (if you arent using an internally wastegated turbo)
- Boost Control (Wastegate Spring, Electronic Boost Controller, Manual Ball Valve, etc. )
- By-Pass Valve or BOV
- Clutch
- Wider Tires ()
Car specific parts might include:
- Larger Fuel Rail
- Cutting
Controlling Boost
- Electronic Boost Controller - such as the Profec B from Greddy. What is does is control the wastegate which controls shaft speeds which controls airflow and boost pressures as a result. The EBCs control boost better than a ball valve which is a vacuum controlled device.
- I dont suggest any other method on the street but other methods are wastegate controlled boost and ball-valves aka manual boost controllers.
now for some trivia on turbochargers -
Did you know......
The average temperature of the exhaust gas, at the entry point to a diesel turbo, is 800 degrees centigrade. A petrol engine can reach 1000 degrees, glowing bright yellow. Hot enough to melt window glass.
New generation turbo's impellers rotate at up to 220,000 revs per minute. The impellers on a Boeing 747 engine rotate at about 7,000 revs in comparison.
The air entering a turbo's compressor impeller can be travelling at a speed close to mach 1.
At average engine revs, a medium size turbo will swallow 130 cubic feet of air per minute, equivalent to the interior volume of a transit van.
Turbo shaft balance is crucial - imbalance at maximum revs equivalent to a 2 kilogram force is acceptable. Turbo Technics often finds turbos supplied for service with 6 kilos of imbalance. This is equivalent to driving along with a brick attached to your wheel rim.
The "hot end" turbine blades in a turbo, are made from a high nickel content alloy, as used in jet aircraft engines. A blade will travel in the region of 820 mph at average engine speed, and the exhaust gas entering it will be supersonic.
A turbo will accelerate from 20,000 revs per minute to over 150,000 revs per minute in less that one second.
You do now......
What is a turbo?
- Essentially a turbo is an exhaust driven air compressor.
What does a turbo do?
- A turbo compresses air into the motor (aka creates boost)
Where is the turbo located?
- The turbo is located immediately after the exhaust manifold.
What does a turbo consist of?
- A turbo mainly consists of:
2 housings (compressor and exhaust)
center section (the lubricating and bearing section)
2 wheels (compressor and exhaust turbine)
shaft (connecting the exhaust turbine to the compressor)
How does a turbo work?
- Exhaust gases exit the cylinder and flow into the exhaust manifold. From there the exhaust gases are diverted towards the exhaust turbine where the combined heat energies and flow velocity spool the wheel. This in turn spins the compressor side of the turbo and it begins to ingest air and create boost.
What is in a turbocharger system?
- Turbo - duh!
- Wastegate - this is a spring loaded valve that opens and closes. It is responsible for maintaining turbine speeds and thus boost pressure. When it is open a good amount of the exhaust gas is diverted away from the turbine, hence the turbo does not spool. When it is closed the exhaust gas is directed towards the turbine and the turbo spools. These can be incorporated into the turbo (internal wastegate) or included in a seperate valve that is incorporated into the exhaust manifold.
- Exhaust Manifold - the design of the manifold is a key to lag reduction... it differs from a normal header in that it generally has short runners to maximize exhaust velocities and thermal energy. One key design factor that can describe the differences in inline 6 and inline 4 manifolds is the inclusion of exhaust pulses. To optimize a boost curve you want to use an equal length manifold system so that you aren't surging the exhaust turbine with 4 pulses per revolution. This can cause boost spiking and boost creep. Other design features are common to n/a headers like runner diameters, extraction, scavenging, etc.
- Intercooler - Compressing air creates heat. This heat is measured as boost temps. Naturally cooler air creates more power simply because it is denser and it allows more consumption of fuel. But the main factor to an intercooler isnt exactly the ability to create a little more power due to lower boost temps, its the fact that the lower boost temps allow more boost. Ex. SR20DET on stock intercooler can run about 10psi max boost before the intercooler becomes ineffective at cooling the extra boost. With a large front mount intercooler from Blitz the SR20DET can now safely run near 29.4 psi (2.0 bar) of boost provided the turbo and motor can hold up to it. A larger intecooler however will increase the area the turbo must fill before the system becomes pressurized... this when measured is refered to as "lag". An intercooler usually consists of bars and fins. Think of a radiator for air.
- Piping - Its piping... runs from turbo compressor housing to intercooler ... out intercooler to the throttle body.
- Downpipe and Exhaust - 3" or larger downpipes and exhaust optimize turbo breathing and allow for better heat extraction, spool up, and longer turbo life. Power also can be boosted considerably top end with a larger diameter system. Beware alot of the gains on a turbo car ... ex. 55whp on a Supra w/ downpipe addition is from boost increase, not the part itself. Generally a downpipe will create 1-3 psi more boost on a stock computered and controlled vehicle. Using a 3" downpipe on stock exhaust is not recommended as it can create boost spiking which can potentially damage a motor, especially if the rpms are low and the motor is still on its low fuel and ignition maps.
- Blow Off Valve (BOV) - Ahhh the ol' noise maker. Ever run a turbo car and hear the loud purge noise created when he/she shifted? Thats due to the BOV. The BOV is similar to the wastegate in operation. It has a vacuum line running to just after the throttle body to sense vacuum. What it does is when it senses strong vacuum (ex. when you close the throttle body in a shift) the valve opens and purges the boost withen the piping. This prevents compressor surging which will damage the turbo very quickly. Compressor surge happens because the turbo is still spinning when the throttle body slams shut. This causes the system to suddenly pressurize itself even more (if the BOV was non-existant or not working) and this surges the turbo causing it to slow down which exerts alot of force on the turbo shaft and other components. To prevent the valve from opening prematurely the spring tension is adjustable via a screw or bolt on top of the BOV.
Corallary to the BOV - Strong debates over wether or not venting to the atmosphere have been going on for years. Venting to the atmosphere on some cars tends to make them stumble because you have purged metered air and the fuel hasnt been purged. So when you blow off the engine suddenly goes rich and you get a nice fireball. Frankly there are no ET / MPH differences that I have noticed between the two. If you are having a stalling or studdering problem with venting atmospherically then you should look into recirculating the air back to the intake after the MAS.
What is Boost?
- Boost is a measurement (in psi) of the backup of air withen the manifold.
The Numbers
Name - There are a ton of turbos ... the name often refers to the size of the turbo. Ex. a T25 is alot smaller than a T88. HKS uses 4 numbers to explain their setups... ex. GT2835 ... this turbo uses a GT28 compressor with a GT30 Exhaust Turbine. Often the T## series turbos are Garret Turbos, such as the stock OEM Nissan turbos and the HKS Turbos. Greddy uses Mitsubishi turbos however and they often turn up as something like this, TD07-25G, this tells us that the turbo uses a TD07 housing and a 25G wheel.
Trim - Trims effect efficiencies... you could compair them to the duration of a cam. The trim effects boost temps and compressor air flow efficiencies at given shaft RPMs. The higher the trim the better the turbo operates at a faster shaft speed. Larger trim turbos such as a T04S (60-1) at highly efficient at higher boost levels but are crappy at lower boost levels, in fact you will hit the compressors surge limit at low boost as well as get boost creep. However a smaller trim will provide better low boost efficiencies. Keep in mind that the trim is a modifier on the compressor/exhaust wheels. Meaning it changes efficiencies at certain boost levels for the same wheel size.
A/R Ratios - Area/Radius Ratio... it describes the size of the housing. A larger a/r will make the turbo spool slower but will provide superior flow and thus more top end power. A smaller a/r does exactly the opposite, it spools the turbo quickly and provides semi-adequate flow. There are so many different a/rs out there that allow you to fine tune what you need out of a turbo.
Turbo Cooling
- Always opt for maximum shaft cooling... this would include water and oil cooling. This makes the turbo live alot longer.
Turbo vs. Supercharger...A few Differences
- Turbos are exhaust driven where as the supercharger is a belt driven device
- Turbos operate at much higher speeds generally ... unless you have some monster turbo
- Turbos can be controlled from withen the car ... no boost pulley change is needed to modify boost pressures
Turbocharging a N/A Car
- Say you have a JapTrap and you want to turbocharge it. Here are the basics to make safe boost.
- Turbo
- Manifold to fit turbo
- Downpipe to exhaust
- Piping
- Intercooler
- ECU Remap
- Larger Injectors
- Larger than OEM Exhaust
- Higher Flowing Fuel Pump
- Oil Lines and Water Lines for Turbo
- Misc. Fittings for Turbo etc.
- Intake for Turbo
- GOOD Hoseclamps
- Silicon Piping Connection Pieces
- Wastegate (if you arent using an internally wastegated turbo)
- Boost Control (Wastegate Spring, Electronic Boost Controller, Manual Ball Valve, etc. )
- By-Pass Valve or BOV
- Clutch
- Wider Tires ()
Car specific parts might include:
- Larger Fuel Rail
- Cutting
Controlling Boost
- Electronic Boost Controller - such as the Profec B from Greddy. What is does is control the wastegate which controls shaft speeds which controls airflow and boost pressures as a result. The EBCs control boost better than a ball valve which is a vacuum controlled device.
- I dont suggest any other method on the street but other methods are wastegate controlled boost and ball-valves aka manual boost controllers.
now for some trivia on turbochargers -
Did you know......
The average temperature of the exhaust gas, at the entry point to a diesel turbo, is 800 degrees centigrade. A petrol engine can reach 1000 degrees, glowing bright yellow. Hot enough to melt window glass.
New generation turbo's impellers rotate at up to 220,000 revs per minute. The impellers on a Boeing 747 engine rotate at about 7,000 revs in comparison.
The air entering a turbo's compressor impeller can be travelling at a speed close to mach 1.
At average engine revs, a medium size turbo will swallow 130 cubic feet of air per minute, equivalent to the interior volume of a transit van.
Turbo shaft balance is crucial - imbalance at maximum revs equivalent to a 2 kilogram force is acceptable. Turbo Technics often finds turbos supplied for service with 6 kilos of imbalance. This is equivalent to driving along with a brick attached to your wheel rim.
The "hot end" turbine blades in a turbo, are made from a high nickel content alloy, as used in jet aircraft engines. A blade will travel in the region of 820 mph at average engine speed, and the exhaust gas entering it will be supersonic.
A turbo will accelerate from 20,000 revs per minute to over 150,000 revs per minute in less that one second.
You do now......
J SPEC SilEighty
07-15-2003, 10:05 PM
Very nice ghostchild
How do I know if my car has ABS/LSD?
Here is a little guide to find out if you have ABS or an LSD. To find out if you have one, check the following letters and see if you have it as the 18th digit in your Model ID (NOT vin number... model ID is located on VIN plate under the hood on the firewall). Note: This is for S14 models only... sorry s13 guys :D
Feb 94 - Jul 95
A - LSD
B - neither
C - ABS/LSD
D - neither
E - LSD
F - neither
Jul 95 - Jul 96
A - LSD
B - ABS
C - ABS/LSD
D - neither
E - neither
F - neither
Jul 96 on
A - neither
B - neither
C - ABS/LSD
D - neither
E - neither
F - ABS/LSD
How do I know if my car has ABS/LSD?
Here is a little guide to find out if you have ABS or an LSD. To find out if you have one, check the following letters and see if you have it as the 18th digit in your Model ID (NOT vin number... model ID is located on VIN plate under the hood on the firewall). Note: This is for S14 models only... sorry s13 guys :D
Feb 94 - Jul 95
A - LSD
B - neither
C - ABS/LSD
D - neither
E - LSD
F - neither
Jul 95 - Jul 96
A - LSD
B - ABS
C - ABS/LSD
D - neither
E - neither
F - neither
Jul 96 on
A - neither
B - neither
C - ABS/LSD
D - neither
E - neither
F - ABS/LSD
cornykorn21
08-07-2003, 12:32 PM
So we're getting all this information about RB's and SR's in the FAQ. How many of you actually have the KA in your car? I want to know where to get parts for the KA and basically everything you did for the SR and RB. Where do I get parts? Is realnissan the only place? I'm assuming the suspension and all of the stuff is the same but obviously the engine compents are different since it's a different engine. Who sells KA parts?
too-cool-2
08-07-2003, 12:49 PM
well, lots of people make parts for the KA, but be specific on which parts, XS engineering makes a turbo kit, Greddy is working on one, crower makes rods that fit,
http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateH.asp?SubFolderID=325&SearchYN=N has pullys, pistons, rods, oil pans, etc.
just do a search on google for KA24 Performance parts and you'll get like 200 results.
http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateH.asp?SubFolderID=325&SearchYN=N has pullys, pistons, rods, oil pans, etc.
just do a search on google for KA24 Performance parts and you'll get like 200 results.
ojon
08-20-2003, 10:01 PM
Also a WISE idea to get a Shop manual for your USDM 240sx and if possible, a shop manual for a UKDM/EuroDM/JDM/AussieDM 200SX/180SX
I have them on PDF/Zip and theyre avalible for d/l on many Nissan sites
Anyone -
Does anyone know where to get these PDF/Zip versions of the 240SX shop manuals? Would appreciate any help.
Ojon
I have them on PDF/Zip and theyre avalible for d/l on many Nissan sites
Anyone -
Does anyone know where to get these PDF/Zip versions of the 240SX shop manuals? Would appreciate any help.
Ojon
SR20DETpower
09-27-2003, 09:04 PM
This was a suggestion to put up something like this for cheap bastards like us.
If you have a KA24de and want some good HP gains for cheaply turbocharge it, seriously lol.
A stock KA24 will handle 5psi of boost easily. You can run this on stock fuel injectors, pumps etc... you can use the stock MAF meter as well. This will also work without an intercooler at this psi.
Most Junkyard turbos run about 100 usd. Most stock turbos are internally actuated(wastegate) this is also good for later on.
Check out RealNissan.com, they used to advertise a internally wastegated manifold for either the SOHC or DOHC ka24 for 330 usd with a T3 flange.
40 bucks for a manual boost controller that actually works!
check out www.z31.com, they have a great FAQ and will tell you about this new manual boost controller and give a link to it. It holds boost and doesn't spike like all the other manual boost controller contraptions produced before this one.
100usd generic Sr20det 3" downpipe off ebay
100usd for oil lines, flanges, and weilding for the required hoses on the center section of the turbo.
100-200 bucks for Turbo plumbing. You could use your imagination on this one and come up with something VERY cheap, like under 50 bucks, depends on how intiative you are and how tight your budget is.
So for 5psi of boost, you will probably make around 200rwhp, everyday, all the time. This will cost you under a grand, thats under $1,000 usd.
CHA CHING..
p.s. This would cost as much as say getting Underdrive pulleys, header, and a catback exhaust, which might make you 155rwhp.... You decide what makes more HP for less money.
If you have a KA24de and want some good HP gains for cheaply turbocharge it, seriously lol.
A stock KA24 will handle 5psi of boost easily. You can run this on stock fuel injectors, pumps etc... you can use the stock MAF meter as well. This will also work without an intercooler at this psi.
Most Junkyard turbos run about 100 usd. Most stock turbos are internally actuated(wastegate) this is also good for later on.
Check out RealNissan.com, they used to advertise a internally wastegated manifold for either the SOHC or DOHC ka24 for 330 usd with a T3 flange.
40 bucks for a manual boost controller that actually works!
check out www.z31.com, they have a great FAQ and will tell you about this new manual boost controller and give a link to it. It holds boost and doesn't spike like all the other manual boost controller contraptions produced before this one.
100usd generic Sr20det 3" downpipe off ebay
100usd for oil lines, flanges, and weilding for the required hoses on the center section of the turbo.
100-200 bucks for Turbo plumbing. You could use your imagination on this one and come up with something VERY cheap, like under 50 bucks, depends on how intiative you are and how tight your budget is.
So for 5psi of boost, you will probably make around 200rwhp, everyday, all the time. This will cost you under a grand, thats under $1,000 usd.
CHA CHING..
p.s. This would cost as much as say getting Underdrive pulleys, header, and a catback exhaust, which might make you 155rwhp.... You decide what makes more HP for less money.
integra818
09-27-2003, 09:08 PM
Got a question: Is there any hope for an all-motor SR20???
I know it's designed for turbo, but I don't know much about turbos so I don't want a turbo motor. The reason I ask this is because I want to buy a first gen Miata and put an SR20 in it, I've heard of a swap kit that makes this possible so it's possible. I know rotaries aslo fit...I don't want a rotary.
I know it's designed for turbo, but I don't know much about turbos so I don't want a turbo motor. The reason I ask this is because I want to buy a first gen Miata and put an SR20 in it, I've heard of a swap kit that makes this possible so it's possible. I know rotaries aslo fit...I don't want a rotary.
Suislide
09-27-2003, 09:42 PM
Got a question: Is there any hope for an all-motor SR20???
I know it's designed for turbo, but I don't know much about turbos so I don't want a turbo motor. The reason I ask this is because I want to buy a first gen Miata and put an SR20 in it, I've heard of a swap kit that makes this possible so it's possible. I know rotaries aslo fit...I don't want a rotary.
you could easily buy a DE non-turbo SR20 that wasn't designed for a turbo...
the engines are differet. the DET was strengthened in key areas in order to withstand boost as well as other changes. you could try that...
I know it's designed for turbo, but I don't know much about turbos so I don't want a turbo motor. The reason I ask this is because I want to buy a first gen Miata and put an SR20 in it, I've heard of a swap kit that makes this possible so it's possible. I know rotaries aslo fit...I don't want a rotary.
you could easily buy a DE non-turbo SR20 that wasn't designed for a turbo...
the engines are differet. the DET was strengthened in key areas in order to withstand boost as well as other changes. you could try that...
integra818
09-27-2003, 09:44 PM
you could easily buy a DE non-turbo SR20 that wasn't designed for a turbo...
the engines are differet. the DET was strengthened in key areas in order to withstand boost as well as other changes. you could try that...
Minor slip-up on my part. I forgot to mention that I wanted at least 200 HP in all motor form. The stock 140 is'nt enough :icon16:
the engines are differet. the DET was strengthened in key areas in order to withstand boost as well as other changes. you could try that...
Minor slip-up on my part. I forgot to mention that I wanted at least 200 HP in all motor form. The stock 140 is'nt enough :icon16:
Suislide
09-27-2003, 10:31 PM
Minor slip-up on my part. I forgot to mention that I wanted at least 200 HP in all motor form. The stock 140 is'nt enough :icon16:
does the RWD DE from Silvia's only have 140hp? i never bothered reading up on it, but i thought it would definitley have more then that...
you could always build it up, though... :iceslolan
does the RWD DE from Silvia's only have 140hp? i never bothered reading up on it, but i thought it would definitley have more then that...
you could always build it up, though... :iceslolan
too-cool-2
09-27-2003, 11:30 PM
here's my 2 cents...(and keep in mind, i'm a nissan guy)
Hey, stupid, pick up the keyboard, type your way on over to google and start learnin about turbos. what you have here is what I call a "unfortunate amount of a lack of knowledge about your miata" A.K.A. the miata is one of the most understated engines around, it has one of the finest 1.8(t) liter engines avalable, and you wanna scrap it? The 1.8 liter engine in the miata is just screamin for boost. Miata engines when boosted are strong as fuck, have LOTS of potential, and are easy to retrieve this potential from.
the only reason that they just havent had the support of other engines is that a miata is known for being a "girls car." so not many people put a nice turbo in it, or mod them a lot. They just see "oh, hahaha, it's a pussy car". Miata's are known to be able to make 500hp, at only 20lbs of boos, and mods that would make any other engine pump out mabye 350.
Hey, if you'r gonna do a miata, just put on a turbo, or keep the 1.8 N/A, because they're known for their road racing potential too. dont just swap in a SR, and even if you were gonna do a nissan swap, do a RB25 or something completely insane instead of an SR.
(once again, i'm not trying to be a flamer, even though it looks like it, this is just my opinion, and I am a nissan guy)
P.S. the silvia q's made 140hp in 1991, and 160hp in 1993
Hey, stupid, pick up the keyboard, type your way on over to google and start learnin about turbos. what you have here is what I call a "unfortunate amount of a lack of knowledge about your miata" A.K.A. the miata is one of the most understated engines around, it has one of the finest 1.8(t) liter engines avalable, and you wanna scrap it? The 1.8 liter engine in the miata is just screamin for boost. Miata engines when boosted are strong as fuck, have LOTS of potential, and are easy to retrieve this potential from.
the only reason that they just havent had the support of other engines is that a miata is known for being a "girls car." so not many people put a nice turbo in it, or mod them a lot. They just see "oh, hahaha, it's a pussy car". Miata's are known to be able to make 500hp, at only 20lbs of boos, and mods that would make any other engine pump out mabye 350.
Hey, if you'r gonna do a miata, just put on a turbo, or keep the 1.8 N/A, because they're known for their road racing potential too. dont just swap in a SR, and even if you were gonna do a nissan swap, do a RB25 or something completely insane instead of an SR.
(once again, i'm not trying to be a flamer, even though it looks like it, this is just my opinion, and I am a nissan guy)
P.S. the silvia q's made 140hp in 1991, and 160hp in 1993
integra818
09-27-2003, 11:43 PM
here's my 2 cents...(and keep in mind, i'm a nissan guy)
Hey, stupid, pick up the keyboard, type your way on over to google and start learnin about turbos. what you have here is what I call a "unfortunate amount of a lack of knowledge about your miata" A.K.A. the miata is one of the most understated engines around, it has one of the finest 1.8(t) liter engines avalable, and you wanna scrap it? The 1.8 liter engine in the miata is just screamin for boost. Miata engines when boosted are strong as fuck, have LOTS of potential, and are easy to retrieve this potential from.
the only reason that they just havent had the support of other engines is that a miata is known for being a "girls car." so not many people put a nice turbo in it, or mod them a lot. They just see "oh, hahaha, it's a pussy car". Miata's are known to be able to make 500hp, at only 20lbs of boos, and mods that would make any other engine pump out mabye 350.
Hey, if you'r gonna do a miata, just put on a turbo, or keep the 1.8 N/A, because they're known for their road racing potential too. dont just swap in a SR, and even if you were gonna do a nissan swap, do a RB25 or something completely insane instead of an SR.
(once again, i'm not trying to be a flamer, even though it looks like it, this is just my opinion, and I am a nissan guy)
P.S. the silvia q's made 140hp in 1991, and 160hp in 1993
:tongue: To be honest, swaping in an SR20 was just one of my options. I've been reading up on the Greddy turbo for the Miata these past couple of hours. I DO know about turbos, but I just don't wanna deal with them. Since I love SR20s so much, and I wanna go the all-motor route I was thinking using the Sr20 would be a better choice instead of trying to get N/A power out of the Miata engine.
I just did'nt wanna come off looking like a confused newb, and I wanted to keep my questions strictly about the SR instead of talking about turbo Miatas which have no place in this thread :p
I'm gonna take your advice and turbo the Miata motor, if I ever get a Miata which there is a high chance I will. I don't care who calls it a girls car, having the reputation of a girls car makes it more of sleeper :naughty:
Hey, stupid, pick up the keyboard, type your way on over to google and start learnin about turbos. what you have here is what I call a "unfortunate amount of a lack of knowledge about your miata" A.K.A. the miata is one of the most understated engines around, it has one of the finest 1.8(t) liter engines avalable, and you wanna scrap it? The 1.8 liter engine in the miata is just screamin for boost. Miata engines when boosted are strong as fuck, have LOTS of potential, and are easy to retrieve this potential from.
the only reason that they just havent had the support of other engines is that a miata is known for being a "girls car." so not many people put a nice turbo in it, or mod them a lot. They just see "oh, hahaha, it's a pussy car". Miata's are known to be able to make 500hp, at only 20lbs of boos, and mods that would make any other engine pump out mabye 350.
Hey, if you'r gonna do a miata, just put on a turbo, or keep the 1.8 N/A, because they're known for their road racing potential too. dont just swap in a SR, and even if you were gonna do a nissan swap, do a RB25 or something completely insane instead of an SR.
(once again, i'm not trying to be a flamer, even though it looks like it, this is just my opinion, and I am a nissan guy)
P.S. the silvia q's made 140hp in 1991, and 160hp in 1993
:tongue: To be honest, swaping in an SR20 was just one of my options. I've been reading up on the Greddy turbo for the Miata these past couple of hours. I DO know about turbos, but I just don't wanna deal with them. Since I love SR20s so much, and I wanna go the all-motor route I was thinking using the Sr20 would be a better choice instead of trying to get N/A power out of the Miata engine.
I just did'nt wanna come off looking like a confused newb, and I wanted to keep my questions strictly about the SR instead of talking about turbo Miatas which have no place in this thread :p
I'm gonna take your advice and turbo the Miata motor, if I ever get a Miata which there is a high chance I will. I don't care who calls it a girls car, having the reputation of a girls car makes it more of sleeper :naughty:
SR20DETpower
09-28-2003, 10:20 AM
guys this is a FAQ not a discussion thread....
Suislide
09-28-2003, 12:50 PM
yeah i just realized this was the actual FAQ and not the FAQ suggestion thread. DAMMIT!
anyone, from now on, discussion about the FAQ goes in the suggestion box thread. i'm closing this one now to discourage free posting.
anyone, from now on, discussion about the FAQ goes in the suggestion box thread. i'm closing this one now to discourage free posting.
Suislide
10-19-2003, 12:30 PM
Suislide
09-28-2004, 06:06 PM
NISSAN ENGINE FAMILY.
E15-ET
Type: 1487cc EFI OHC 8-valve 4cyl turbo
Power: 115hp @ 5600rpm
Torque: 123ft-lbs @ 3200rpm
Gearboxes: FWD 5-speed and 3-speed auto
Source: 83-84 Exa and Pulsar Turbo
Z18-ET
Type: 1770cc EFI OHC 8 valve twin plug 4cyl turbo
Power: 135hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 144ft-lbs @ 3600rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-speed and 3-speed auto
Source: 1982-83 Silvia ZSE-X and Gazelle
CA18-DE
Type: 1809cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power: 130hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 119ft-lbs @ 5200rpm
Gearboxes: FWD 5-speed and RWD 5-speed and 4-speed auto
Source: RWD 1988-on Silvia, FWD fitted to late model Australian EXA's
CA18-DET
Type: 1809cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl turbo
Power: 175hp @ 6400rpm (195hp @ 6400rpm 87-88)
Torque: 165ft-lbs @ 4000rpm (148ft-lbs @ 4000rpm 87-88)
Gearboxes: FWD 5-speed and RWD 5-speed and 4-speed auto
Source: RWD intercooled examples come from 89-91 180SX and Silvia turbo. Non-intercooled RWD were 87-88 Gazelle engines. FWD examples come from 1988 Auster 1800Xtt (also not intercooled)
SR18-DE
Type: 1838cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power: 140hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 123ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes: FWD 5-Speed
Source: 92-93 Sunny GTS and Pulsar GTi (note bluebird version had only 93kW)
FJ20-E
Type: 1990cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power: 150hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 133ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed
Source: 1982-83 Silvia RS
FJ20-ET
Type: 1990cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl turbo
Power: 190hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 165ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed
Source: 1984 Gazelle RS-X, Silvia RS-X and skyline RS-X
L20-ET
Type: 1998cc EFI OHC 6cyl turbo
Power: 145hp @ 5600rpm
Torque: 151ft-lbs @ 3200rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 83-84 Leopard TRX
VG20-ET
Type: 1998cc EFI OHC 12 valve V6 turbo
Power: 170hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 159ft-lbs @ 4000rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 83-84 Gloria V20
SR20-DE
Type: 1998cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power: 160hp @ 6400rpm (145hp FWD)
Torque: 138ft-lbs @ 4800rpm (178 FWD)
Gearboxes: FWD 5-speed and RWD 5-speed and 4-speed auto
Source: RWD 1993-94 Silvia Q's, FWD Presea
SR20-DET
Type: 1998cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl turbo
Power: 205hp @ 6000rpm (180SX), 220hp @ 6000rpm (Silvia), 230hp @ 6400rpm (Pulsar GTi-R)
Torque: 201ft-lbs @ 4000rpm (180SX), 201ft-lbs @ 4800rpm (Silvia), 209ft-lbs @ 4800rpm (Pulsar GTi-R)
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto (1993-on Silvia and 180SX) 4WD east-west 5-Speed (GTi-R)
Source: Silvia K's and 180SX after 1993, 1991-92 Pulsar GTi-R 4WD
RB20-DET
Type: 1998cc EFI DOHC 24 valve 6cyl turbo
Power: 215hp @ 6400rpm (auto 205hp @ 6400rpm)
Torque: 193ft-lbs @ 3200rpm (auto 195ft-lbs @ 3200rpm)
Gearboxes: RWD 5-speed and 4-speed auto
Source: 1989-1992 Skyline GTS and Cefiro Sedan
RB20-DE
Type: 1998cc EFI DOHC 24 valve 6cyl
Power: 155hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 135ft-lbs @ 5200rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-speed and 4-speed auto
Source: 89-92 Laurel and Skyline
RB26-DETT
Type: 2597cc EFI DOHC 24 valve 6cyl twin turbo
Power: 280hp @ 6800rpm
Torque: 271ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
Gearboxes: 4WD North-South 6-Speed
Source: GODZILLA! HR32 GT-R 4WD
RB25-DE
Type: 2498cc EFI DOHC 24 valve 6cyl
Power: 180hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 165ft-lbs @ 5200rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source: 92-95 Cefiro and Skyline
RB25-DET
Type: 2498cc EFI DOHC 24 valve 6cyl turbo
Power: 250hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 217ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source: 1993-on Skyline GTS-25t
VG30-E
Type: 2960cc EFI OHC 12 valve V6
Power: 180hp @ 5200rpm
Torque: 191ft-lbs @ 4000rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 83-84 Gloria V30E
VG30-ET
Type: 2960cc EFI OHC 12 valve V6 turbo
Power: 230hp @ 5200rpm
Torque: 245ft-lbs @ 3600rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source: 1983-on 300ZX turbo (considerably higher spec than Aust. Version)
VQ30-DE
Type: 2987cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6
Power: 220hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 205ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 96-97 Cedric and Gloria
VQ30-DET
Type: 2987cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6 turbo
Power: 270hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 270ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 96-97 Cima 30LV and 30TR
VG30-DE
Type: 2998cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6
Power: 225hp @ 6400rpm (200hp @ 6000rpm auto)
Torque: 200ft-lbs @ 3600rpm (191ft-lbs @ 4400rpm auto)
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source: 1989 onwards 300ZX and Leopard
VH41-DE
Type: 4130cc EFI DOHC 32 valve V8
Power: 270hp @ 5600rpm
Torque: 277ft-lbs @ 4000rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 96-97 Cima 41LV and LX
VG30-DET
Type: 2998cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6 turbo
Power: 255hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 252ft-lbs @ 3200rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: Nissan Leopard sedan around 1990-1991. No intercooler, single turbo
VG30-DETT
Type: 2998cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6 twin turbo
Power: 280hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 285ft-lbs @ 3600rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source: 1989 onwards 300ZX twin turbo. Note: had twin intercoolers
VH45-DE
Type: 4494cc EFI DOHC 32 valve V8
Power: 280hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 294ft-lbs @ 4000rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 96-97 Infiniti Q45
posted by niswiz.
E15-ET
Type: 1487cc EFI OHC 8-valve 4cyl turbo
Power: 115hp @ 5600rpm
Torque: 123ft-lbs @ 3200rpm
Gearboxes: FWD 5-speed and 3-speed auto
Source: 83-84 Exa and Pulsar Turbo
Z18-ET
Type: 1770cc EFI OHC 8 valve twin plug 4cyl turbo
Power: 135hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 144ft-lbs @ 3600rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-speed and 3-speed auto
Source: 1982-83 Silvia ZSE-X and Gazelle
CA18-DE
Type: 1809cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power: 130hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 119ft-lbs @ 5200rpm
Gearboxes: FWD 5-speed and RWD 5-speed and 4-speed auto
Source: RWD 1988-on Silvia, FWD fitted to late model Australian EXA's
CA18-DET
Type: 1809cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl turbo
Power: 175hp @ 6400rpm (195hp @ 6400rpm 87-88)
Torque: 165ft-lbs @ 4000rpm (148ft-lbs @ 4000rpm 87-88)
Gearboxes: FWD 5-speed and RWD 5-speed and 4-speed auto
Source: RWD intercooled examples come from 89-91 180SX and Silvia turbo. Non-intercooled RWD were 87-88 Gazelle engines. FWD examples come from 1988 Auster 1800Xtt (also not intercooled)
SR18-DE
Type: 1838cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power: 140hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 123ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes: FWD 5-Speed
Source: 92-93 Sunny GTS and Pulsar GTi (note bluebird version had only 93kW)
FJ20-E
Type: 1990cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power: 150hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 133ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed
Source: 1982-83 Silvia RS
FJ20-ET
Type: 1990cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl turbo
Power: 190hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 165ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed
Source: 1984 Gazelle RS-X, Silvia RS-X and skyline RS-X
L20-ET
Type: 1998cc EFI OHC 6cyl turbo
Power: 145hp @ 5600rpm
Torque: 151ft-lbs @ 3200rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 83-84 Leopard TRX
VG20-ET
Type: 1998cc EFI OHC 12 valve V6 turbo
Power: 170hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 159ft-lbs @ 4000rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 83-84 Gloria V20
SR20-DE
Type: 1998cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power: 160hp @ 6400rpm (145hp FWD)
Torque: 138ft-lbs @ 4800rpm (178 FWD)
Gearboxes: FWD 5-speed and RWD 5-speed and 4-speed auto
Source: RWD 1993-94 Silvia Q's, FWD Presea
SR20-DET
Type: 1998cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl turbo
Power: 205hp @ 6000rpm (180SX), 220hp @ 6000rpm (Silvia), 230hp @ 6400rpm (Pulsar GTi-R)
Torque: 201ft-lbs @ 4000rpm (180SX), 201ft-lbs @ 4800rpm (Silvia), 209ft-lbs @ 4800rpm (Pulsar GTi-R)
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto (1993-on Silvia and 180SX) 4WD east-west 5-Speed (GTi-R)
Source: Silvia K's and 180SX after 1993, 1991-92 Pulsar GTi-R 4WD
RB20-DET
Type: 1998cc EFI DOHC 24 valve 6cyl turbo
Power: 215hp @ 6400rpm (auto 205hp @ 6400rpm)
Torque: 193ft-lbs @ 3200rpm (auto 195ft-lbs @ 3200rpm)
Gearboxes: RWD 5-speed and 4-speed auto
Source: 1989-1992 Skyline GTS and Cefiro Sedan
RB20-DE
Type: 1998cc EFI DOHC 24 valve 6cyl
Power: 155hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 135ft-lbs @ 5200rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-speed and 4-speed auto
Source: 89-92 Laurel and Skyline
RB26-DETT
Type: 2597cc EFI DOHC 24 valve 6cyl twin turbo
Power: 280hp @ 6800rpm
Torque: 271ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
Gearboxes: 4WD North-South 6-Speed
Source: GODZILLA! HR32 GT-R 4WD
RB25-DE
Type: 2498cc EFI DOHC 24 valve 6cyl
Power: 180hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 165ft-lbs @ 5200rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source: 92-95 Cefiro and Skyline
RB25-DET
Type: 2498cc EFI DOHC 24 valve 6cyl turbo
Power: 250hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 217ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source: 1993-on Skyline GTS-25t
VG30-E
Type: 2960cc EFI OHC 12 valve V6
Power: 180hp @ 5200rpm
Torque: 191ft-lbs @ 4000rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 83-84 Gloria V30E
VG30-ET
Type: 2960cc EFI OHC 12 valve V6 turbo
Power: 230hp @ 5200rpm
Torque: 245ft-lbs @ 3600rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source: 1983-on 300ZX turbo (considerably higher spec than Aust. Version)
VQ30-DE
Type: 2987cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6
Power: 220hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 205ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 96-97 Cedric and Gloria
VQ30-DET
Type: 2987cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6 turbo
Power: 270hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 270ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 96-97 Cima 30LV and 30TR
VG30-DE
Type: 2998cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6
Power: 225hp @ 6400rpm (200hp @ 6000rpm auto)
Torque: 200ft-lbs @ 3600rpm (191ft-lbs @ 4400rpm auto)
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source: 1989 onwards 300ZX and Leopard
VH41-DE
Type: 4130cc EFI DOHC 32 valve V8
Power: 270hp @ 5600rpm
Torque: 277ft-lbs @ 4000rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 96-97 Cima 41LV and LX
VG30-DET
Type: 2998cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6 turbo
Power: 255hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 252ft-lbs @ 3200rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: Nissan Leopard sedan around 1990-1991. No intercooler, single turbo
VG30-DETT
Type: 2998cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6 twin turbo
Power: 280hp @ 6400rpm
Torque: 285ft-lbs @ 3600rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source: 1989 onwards 300ZX twin turbo. Note: had twin intercoolers
VH45-DE
Type: 4494cc EFI DOHC 32 valve V8
Power: 280hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 294ft-lbs @ 4000rpm
Gearboxes: RWD 4-Speed Auto
Source: 96-97 Infiniti Q45
posted by niswiz.
Suislide
09-28-2004, 10:38 PM
VQ35-DE
Type:3498cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6
Power:287hp @ 6200rpm
Torque:274ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes:RWD 6-Speed manual and 5-Speed Auto
Source:03 onward 350Z, Infiniti G35, and 04 Skyline
KA24-E
Type:2398cc EFI SOHC 12 valve 4cyl
Power:140hp @ 5600rpm
Torque:152ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
Gearboxes:RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source:1989-1990 240SX
KA24-DE
Type:2398cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power:155hp @ 5600rpm
Torque:160ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
Gearboxes:RWD 5-Speed manual(1991-1998 240SX) FWD 5-Speed manual(1991-1998 altima) 4-Speed Auto
Source:1991 onward 240SX, 1991-1998 Altima
Type:3498cc EFI DOHC 24 valve V6
Power:287hp @ 6200rpm
Torque:274ft-lbs @ 4800rpm
Gearboxes:RWD 6-Speed manual and 5-Speed Auto
Source:03 onward 350Z, Infiniti G35, and 04 Skyline
KA24-E
Type:2398cc EFI SOHC 12 valve 4cyl
Power:140hp @ 5600rpm
Torque:152ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
Gearboxes:RWD 5-Speed and 4-Speed Auto
Source:1989-1990 240SX
KA24-DE
Type:2398cc EFI DOHC 16 valve 4cyl
Power:155hp @ 5600rpm
Torque:160ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
Gearboxes:RWD 5-Speed manual(1991-1998 240SX) FWD 5-Speed manual(1991-1998 altima) 4-Speed Auto
Source:1991 onward 240SX, 1991-1998 Altima
nissanfanatic
08-27-2005, 09:39 PM
From the "suggestion box",
Just wanted to add, here are different 240sx owner manual for CA18DET, KA24E, KA24DE, S14 and some more.
http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/24/47/
Just wanted to add, here are different 240sx owner manual for CA18DET, KA24E, KA24DE, S14 and some more.
http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/24/47/
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