Airtex Fuel Pumps - Buyer Beware

In Oct. 2007, the original Fuel Pump in my 2000 4.3L 4dr, 2wd, Jimmy went out. I had the Fuel Pump replaced (long story) with a brand new Airtex brand aftermarket Fuel Pump and filter. Within 7 months, in April of 2008, I noticed the truck was getting harder and harder to start. It originally fired on the turn of the key, but progressively got to the point where the starter had to turn the engine over for 5-10 seconds before it would finally fire. Since the Pump was under warranty, my mechanic and I decided to R&R this pump before it left me stranded. Once the pump was out of the tank, we found that the Crimp style clamp holding the Flex hose onto the actual pump (inside of the Pump assembly, inside of the tank) was loose and probably leaking fuel and pressure back into the tank. We got a free Airtex Fuel Pump from the Auto Parts store and swapped out the Fuel Pump and filter. All seemed well until last week Monday, when this 6 month old Airtex pump started making a terrific howling, whining noise. I replaced the Fuel Filter again, even though it was also only 6 months old, but it didn’t help, the noise was very loud and could be heard during the 2 second prime cycle when nothing else was running, not to mention you could hear it while the engine was running. Knowing I was on borrowed time, I drove the truck until Thursday to try to drain as much of the fuel out as possible, when it finally left me stranded in the middle of the interstate. It just quit while driving at 40 MPH during rush hour. Luckily, I was in the right hand lane and was able to get out of traffic. Again, The Fuel pump was swapped out with; you guessed it, another brand new Airtex Fuel Pump, which has already started to show signs of trouble after 2 days. This brand new Airtex Fuel Pump does not seem to hold pressure once the pump (and Engine) is shut off. The next time you try to start the engine, if you don’t let the Prime Cycle finish the 2 second cycle when you first turn the key, the starter cranks until the system is primed. If you let the prime cycle finish, it starts normally.

Here are a few suggestions, tips, opinions, advice, call it what you want, but hopefully, someone will benefit from this and not make the same mistakes I made.

1, Never, never, never buy an Aftermarket Fuel pump. AC-Delco/Delphi OEM pumps are the only way to go, and they are not usually that much more money. If I had done this, I would have saved over $500 in labor costs. Bite the bullet and do it right the first time. You will be ahead in the long run. After 3 pumps I am qualified to make this statement.

2. Some new Aftermarket pumps have a different wiring harness connector that will require you to cut your old one off and connect their new one on. If you have to use a different connector, I recommend that you solder the wires instead of using the connectors that come in the box. However, if you replace your connector and have to go back to the original GM connector, it may cost you extra for a new connector.

3. Always replace the Fuel filter at least once a year. I cannot emphasize this enough! This is what in all likelihood caused my original Fuel Pump to go out. Too much back pressure kills these pumps. Always replace the Fuel Filter when you replace the Fuel Pump.

4. If your Fuel Pump starts to whine, howl or emit a loud whistle, you’re on borrowed time. Start planning for the inevitable R&R. Most Fuel Pumps will normally make some noise. To listen to your fuel pump while it seems to be running good, stand by the Gas Cap Door and have someone turn the key to “ON” without starting the engine and listen to the two second prime cycle for future reference and take note of any change in the sound.

4. If at all possible, if you have a choice, schedule your Fuel Pump replacement when the tank is almost empty. You and/or your mechanic will thank me later.

5. Once the Fuel Pump is out, inspect the inside of the tank for cleanliness. Also inspect the various hoses, lines and clamps and replace anything that could cause small leaks. This is so much easier to do when the tank is out.

6. Double check and inspect the new pump and gasket and make sure everything is the same. I have had Fuel Pump gaskets that came in the box with the new pump that were not thick enough to seal the tank and resulted in failure at the emissions station. I had to buy a new Gasket from the Dealership and re-do the job.

7. Lube the new Fuel Pump gasket with light grease during install to get a good seal.

Good tips. I've had an Airtex pump in my car for a couple of years :) without any problems.

Hey Rick, guess what?

Delphi pumps aren't all that great either.
I had to replace a two year old Delphi unit because the hose from the pump to the top of the pump housing, sprung a leak.

Guess what else.
The replacement Delphi pump had a different connector (in a bag with 12" wire leads and 4 butt connectors).

So, in a 2 year period, Delphi changed the housing connector (probably so all GM assemblies are the same).

A minor detail here; I have a 2 door Blazer, which uses a different housing than the 4 door. Most parts stores do not stock the 2 door unit, but have the 4 door and S10 pick-up units in stock. That means an extra day of waiting for me. (An S10 pump, while it is possible to cram into a Blazer tank, does not work well in Blazers - The gas gauge is incorrect - Guy at Napa gave me the wrong one - Joy of Joys)

Now, I've never had an Airtex pump, but I did replace my original unit with a Carter assembly. That pump crapped out at 14 months. I always thought Carter was a quality name.

Not so much anymore, and I'm beginning to feel that way about Delphi too.

Hey Rick, guess what?

Delphi pumps aren't all that great either.
I had to replace a two year old Delphi unit because the hose from the pump to the top of the pump housing, sprung a leak.



The good thing is, you at least got two years out of your Delphi pump. I am averaging 6 months with the Airtex pumps. The fuel pump that I bought with the bad gaskets was a Bosch. See my Thread http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=532268 So yes, I am sure each and every manufacturer will have their issues.

Here is what I want to really know, or in other words, what should or should not be done to help us get the maximum life out of these pumps regardless of who the manufacturer is:

1. The number One biggest and simplest thing we can do, as I already stated, is to regularly change the fuel filter. Once a year as a rule.

2. I continue to hear the “never let your tank drop below ¼ full” theory. Some say yes, some say it doesn’t matter. I know it doesn’t hurt to keep your fuel tank above the ¼ full mark. Let’s hear from the experts.

3. What about additives? Are certain additives harmful to the system? Here is my thought. I am reasonably sure the additive itself won’t harm the pump; however, these cleaners dissolve the crap from fuel injectors etc. I have to believe they also dissolve the crap from the inside of the tank and either clog the filter sock at the bottom of the pump to a small degree, and most assuredly clog the filter. Some people I am sure do not follow the dilution recommendations on the bottle and instead of adding a bottle to 10 or 20 gallons of gas, they simply add it to whatever is in the tank and run a concentrated solution through the system.

Comments anyone?

Rick Norwood
Good post.
I am glad to hear a consumer speaking out with his problems and experience the aftermarket junk fuel pumps.

Consumers should give you a big thanks for speaking up and letting them be aware of the problems with the after market fuel pumps.
Anyone that is going to replace there fuel pump should do some research and get first hand experience from consumers like yourself.
A lot of good repair shops now only us AC Delco/Delphi pumps.

Many parts places still continue to sell and push them even with a high come back rate.
They still push the 25 dollars cheaper pump and say the have a lifetime warranty.
So far Carquest Auto Parts co. and stores is the only parts places that has stood up to the junk fuel pump company’s and said no more junk.
They have switched to Ac_Delco/Delphi OEM type fuel pumps.

Some of the parts people at AZ will tell you about the high comebacks on aftermarket stuff and they do carry a ac- Delco line of fuel pumps


The lifetime warranty on the cheap aftermarket pumps gets very expensive with 100-200 $ tow bills and 150-250 $ 0n labor to replace it every time it quits plus down time expense and head and rear pains of being broke down at bad times and places.

As a professional mechanic/tech and garage owner I have been aware of and have been seeing the problem for well over a year.
And sad to say the junk fuel pump places are not doing anything to improve their fuel pumps and will not even admit they have a problem.
I have tested the pressure on them and very few even have the proper pressure to run and quit altogether very soon after installing them.

MT

The good thing is, you at least got two years out of your Delphi pump. I am averaging 6 months with the Airtex pumps. The fuel pump that I bought with the bad gaskets was a Bosch. See my Thread http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=532268 So yes, I am sure each and every manufacturer will have their issues.

Here is what I want to really know, or in other words, what should or should not be done to help us get the maximum life out of these pumps regardless of who the manufacturer is:

1. The number One biggest and simplest thing we can do, as I already stated, is to regularly change the fuel filter. Once a year as a rule.

2. I continue to hear the “never let your tank drop below ¼ full” theory. Some say yes, some say it doesn’t matter. I know it doesn’t hurt to keep your fuel tank above the ¼ full mark. Let’s hear from the experts.

3. What about additives? Are certain additives harmful to the system? Here is my thought. I am reasonably sure the additive itself won’t harm the pump; however, these cleaners dissolve the crap from fuel injectors etc. I have to believe they also dissolve the crap from the inside of the tank and either clog the filter sock at the bottom of the pump to a small degree, and most assuredly clog the filter. Some people I am sure do not follow the dilution recommendations on the bottle and instead of adding a bottle to 10 or 20 gallons of gas, they simply add it to whatever is in the tank and run a concentrated solution through the system.

Comments anyone?


Yes on no 1
And a bad batch of gas can clog fuel filter fast.
Stopped up filter oveloads and overworks fuel pumps.
Keep them clean.
Even after a pump repacement and filter change recheck the fuel filter in a day or so,
When some fuel pumps go out the throw black crap in the tank and what fuel that is in there that wiil get into the filter.

Yes on no 2
1/4 tank is a good rule.
People that keep fuel in there tanks have a lot less fuel pump problems.
Low fuel in the tank works the pump harder and tens to build heat in pump.
Fuel in the tanks helps cool the pump.
If a tank runs out the pump will suck air and burn up the pump fast.
Also a low fuel tank can built up moisture inside.

On no 3
Some Additives can or mixed to strong can be to strong on the fuel system.
Also I have run onto a varnnish/chemical build up on fuel sending units causing feel gauge/sending units problems.
I suspect it is caused by gas additives from gas companys or tand additives.

And to add always check power and ground wires to the fuel pump.
Some fuel pumps come with a plugin wiring.
Pitch the butt conectors that come with it and.
Solder the wiring and seal it with heat shrink and electrical wire sealer.

I seen worse,replaced the fuel pump in in one Chevy truck 6 times and it was an Airtex pump.Airtex will not warranty their fuel pumps calling it improper installation.My father did chew out an Airtex rep with bad words when Airtex was Carquest's fuel pump supplier.Even had one on the hoist,a Pontiac Bonneville not run after the fuel pump was replaced,an Airtex pump which was junk.Drove it in with a bad fuel pump before it was replaced.

It really is amazing how many problems these pumps can have. They are so simple. My original pump in my Olds Ciera lasted 120K miles. I took it apart to see what the problem was. I thought the brushes would be worn out, but they were ok. The pump had 2 stages of impellers, one feeding the other. The impellers are nylon (plastic) and are driven by a flat shaft through a slot in the center. One slot had rounded out, so it wasn't making pressure. With only one stage working, the pressure wasn't enough.
The instructions with the pump really emphasized how important it is to replace the fuel straining sock on the input.
Also on the Carter website, they say that a lot of GM models had problems with the in tank wires and connectors.
As long as the sock and the wiring are replaced, it should last.

All of my Airtex pumps were installed by professional mechanics with brand new external fuel filters. Each and every one of the Airtex Pumps came with a brand new filter sock as a part of the assembly.

I really don't care why the Airtex pumps failed prematurely, whether it is due to the internal wires, a leaking flex tube, the rounded out impeller, or a bad pump motor, because in the end, you have to drop the tank and replace the pump. Fuel Pumps, regardless of the brand, should last for years if properly maintained. So far I am averaging 6 months with Airtex pumps.

If your are lucky enough to not get stranded, don't have to pay for towing bills, live next door to a mechanic who does free labor, can get free replacement pumps every 6 months, and don't mind being without your truck for a day or two, then you'll probably be o.k. with Airtex pumps. Otherwise, it is a crap shoot and you will probably loose.

The Crimp style clamp was a metal band that is attached by the Manufacturer. It is not tightenable by the mechanic and should not have to be. If you pay $250-$300 for a Fuel Pump, it should be good to go right out of the box.

As a matter of fact they were all installed by a dealership.

I did not insult you or try to insult you. I started this thread to share my experiences and with any luck, prevent someone else from making the same mistakes that I made. That is the purpose of this Forum.

If you are not looking for an arguement, you could have fooled me. I suggest you read the rules of this Forum.

The Crimp style clamp was a metal band that is attached by the Manufacturer. It is not tightenable by the mechanic and should not have to be. If you pay $250-$300 for a Fuel Pump, it should be good to go right out of the box.

As a matter of fact they were all installed by a dealership.

.

Reading the reply about the hose attachment (which is the reason for the reply 4 posts up), it seems to me the guy is talking about replacing just the pump itself, not the whole assembly like you and I mention.

Of course, replacing just the pump would entail fastening the hose to the assembly cover.

On both the Carter and Delphi/ACDelco units I've worked with, the hoses are shrink fit onto the housing. No tie wraps or clamps are used. One of the reasons I won't replace just the pump motor (The other being the level sensor assembly, and the strainer/socks).

As far as the mentioning of the fuel socks, you always get new socks/strainers when you replace the whole assembly.
The Delphi units actually have 2 socks on them. One on the bottom of the
housing, and one on the bottom of the pump inside the housing.

I'm not here to promote Airtex pumps, or get in an arguement, but there's no way pump after pump will be bad (unless there is a defective batch), and even so, it's unlikely you would get bad pumps 6 months or longer apart.
I suggest you look real hard at the "professional" mechanics who installed them.
Was it the same guy each time?
Improper installation can ruin every part.

My pump used a plastic "tie wrap" clamp that had to be tighten by the installer. If it's the same as mine, that means that your mechanic didn't tighten the damn thing.

Do you work on your own vehicles, or pay someone else to fix them?


Rick’s
Is a consumer/buyer warning on aftermarket fuel pumps for information and warning?
It is not a post to start a pissing match about them

As a professional garage owner and installer.
I run into it every week.
Not only on GM but other cars and trucks.

Airtex has to many bad batches on all models.
You might go threw the hole batch to get one to run.
Some will not even start and run and others fail soon after installing.
Carquest dropper them and went to AC Delco/Delphi fuel pumps.

I have had up to 3 in a row that would not even start and run after proper installation and power checks.
Went to another parts place and got the same pump no from them.
It did start but failed the pressure test.
So that is 4 bad in a row for me.

On the hose you mention it does not even sound like you are replacing the whole fuel pump module, as you should be.

If you do not believe Airtex has bad pumps out there check you good local repair shops.
Also any good parts place will tell you they have a high comeback rate on them.

Hi Mike.

When I bought the pumps for this model and year, all the parts store carried was the Fuel Pump Assembly, which included the Pump/Motor, Spring Loaded Housing, Sending Unit, Filter Sock, Wire Harness Connector (pigtail) and a gasket. The individual Motor/Pump was not available, only the complete Assembly, and it cost over $250 USD.

When I R&R'd the Fuel Pump om my '93 Blazer, all I had to buy was the pump, and it came with clamps and small lengths of hose to replace the Pulsator.

I know of 2 auto parts stores selling Delphi fuel pumps,Auto Value and Carquest.I know an owner of a Carquest parts store,Northwestern Auto Supply in Muskegon,Mi that has gotten lots of returns of Airtex before the switch to Delphi.Since the switch to Delphi,no returns.Carter and Bosch fuel pumps are junk too.My father does not trust anything made by Bosch at all.

I agree with Rick on Airtex. I have sold auto parts for over 6 years, working with autozone, advance auto parts, and O'reilly auto parts. I have heard more complaints with Airtex than any other brand fuel pumps.

Rick, how many miles did your Jimmy have when you first had problems with your fuel pump?

I have a 2001 2dr blazer, with only 70,000 miles on it. it has symptoms of a bad fuel pump. I'm hoping that's not the problem.

I also have a 98' K1500. the previous owner replaced the fuel pump at 125,000, with an Airtex pump. It looks like I will have to replace it again soon!

I agree with Rick on Airtex. I have sold auto parts for over 6 years, working with autozone, advance auto parts, and O'reilly auto parts. I have heard more complaints with Airtex than any other brand fuel pumps.

Rick, how many miles did your Jimmy have when you first had problems with your fuel pump?

I have a 2001 2dr blazer, with only 70,000 miles on it. it has symptoms of a bad fuel pump. I'm hoping that's not the problem.

I also have a 98' K1500. the previous owner replaced the fuel pump at 125,000, with an Airtex pump. It looks like I will have to replace it again soon!

Georgiaboy, Thanks for your input. I would change the fuel filters on both today without hesitation.

I asked a local garage owner whose shop is less than a mile from the parts store that sold me the Airtex pumps whether or not he uses the Airtex brand Fuel Pumps. His response was a resounding "HELL NO" and when I asked why he said "TOO MANY PROBLEMS AND RETURNS ON THEM, THEY DON'T EVEN MAKE IT THROUGH THE WARRANTY". The funniest thing about this is that the parts store denies getting hardly any returns on Airtex Pumps.

My 2000 Jimmy had approximately 105k -110k miles when the original pump went out. My daughter's 2001 S-10 Blazer had almost exactly the same amount of miles when it went out.

I can say without reservation that both pumps went out because the big tall dumb ass (that would be me) did not change the fuel filters. When both vehicles lost their pumps and new filters were installed you could almost not even blow air through the old filters, much less gasoline. The dirt and crap that did come out of those filters was an embarrassment.

So I am going to say it again for all to read and heed.

CHANGE YOUR FUEL FILTER AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR.

DO NOT WAIT FOR YOUR FUEL PUMP TO START MAKING NOISE, IT IS TOO LATE AT THAT POINT.

THE PLUGGED FILTER PUTS TOO MUCH PRESSURE ON THE FUEL PUMP CAUSING IT TO FAIL.

THE $10 FILTER AND THE 10 MINUTES IT WILL TAKE TO PUT IT IN WILL SAVE YOU HUNDREDS AND HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS.

IF YOU HAVEN'T CHANGED YOUR FUEL FILTER IN A WHILE OR YOU CAN'T REMEMBER THE LAST TIME YOU DID CHANGE IT (IF EVER) DO IT NOW!

Well, I had one of the Airtex 3270 fuel pumps installed on my '97 GMC 1500 yesterday by a local garage whom I trust. The truck has 94,000 miles on it and this will be the third replacement fuel pump. My dad owned the truck for its first 50,000 miles. The OEM pump lasted about 36,000 miles. The first replacement (don't know the brand but it was purchased at O'Reilly) lasted about 20,000 miles and the last pump (a Carter P74167) lasted a little over 37,000 miles. I had never heard of the Airtex brand until I looked them up on the net last night. The mechanic who towed the truck home on Sunday suggested that I replace everything when I had the pump replaced (screen, filter, wiring harness, etc) which I did. I will be replacing the filter every six months so we will see how it goes. I hope Norwood, etc, are wrong about these pumps. I know that O'Reilly and Autozone still sell them in this area. You can get the Delphi brand but I am not sure they are any better and they are definitely much more expensive (though not as expensive as the labor, etc to replace the pump). Since nobody has posted on this link in a couple of years maybe the Airtex people have cleaned up their act a bit. :jerking:

Well, I had one of the Airtex 3270 fuel pumps installed on my '97 GMC 1500 yesterday by a local garage whom I trust. The truck has 94,000 miles on it and this will be the third replacement fuel pump. My dad owned the truck for its first 50,000 miles. The OEM pump lasted about 36,000 miles. The first replacement (don't know the brand but it was purchased at O'Reilly) lasted about 20,000 miles and the last pump (a Carter P74167) lasted a little over 37,000 miles. I had never heard of the Airtex brand until I looked them up on the net last night. The mechanic who towed the truck home on Sunday suggested that I replace everything when I had the pump replaced (screen, filter, wiring harness, etc) which I did. I will be replacing the filter every six months so we will see how it goes. I hope Norwood, etc, are wrong about these pumps. I know that O'Reilly and Autozone still sell them in this area. You can get the Delphi brand but I am not sure they are any better and they are definitely much more expensive (though not as expensive as the labor, etc to replace the pump). Since nobody has posted on this link in a couple of years maybe the Airtex people have cleaned up their act a bit. :jerking:

Best to start a new thread instead of opening up a old post.

Rick is right on the money.
Airtex are junk and still are.
The GM Delphi pump is only 25$ more.

Carquest is the only smart one.
They have droped airtex like a hot spud.

O'Rielly and AZ and other aftermarket places are slow learners and still push the junk Airtex pumps.

The must make more money on selling them but it cost the customer big bucks in the end.

If you are having problems on the OEM pump or a Delphi pump you may have a wiring problem or one of the people that run there fuel tank on empty or do not keep over a 1/4 tank of fuel in it.
Also dirty fuel or plugged fuel filter will burn up a pump.

Run a search on fuel pump problem on AF and you will see many problems with Airtex junk pumps.

i had the same thing happen to me the air tec pump went 3,000 miles then quit

Here is an update. I have babied the Fuel pump that was installed in November, 2008, by NEVER letting the fuel go below a quarter of a tank EVER, and changing the Fuel filter regularly.

The pump is still in the truck, and so far (Knock on wood), it still starts the truck after a year and a half. The Airtex Pump still does not hold pressure after the key is turned off and never did. The Airtex Pump is noisier than the original and I can hear the pump whine while driving.

I still say to go with the AC Delco/Delphi pump every time. The Airtex pumps are Junk. If you did install an Airtex Pump or any other pump for that matter, change your fuel filter at least once a year, and always keep at least a quarter of a tank of gasoline in the truck. Besides, if you are only adding 12-15 gallons at the pump, it is a little easier on the wallet.

1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 4 Liter,

I replaced the stock fuelpump at about 190,000 miles with an AIRTEX. The only one they had in stock at Advance Auto. Then, at 220,000 miles the pump stopped working. I did everything by the book, clean tank, new parts, so when the car died it took a while to diagnose. If you have replaced your pump with an AIRTEX and your car suddenly stops running, check your fuel pressure.

Back to Advance Auto, the only place open on Sunday and I need to get this car running. Guess what? Only AIRTEX in stock. Hmm, I wonder why?

1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 4 Liter,

I replaced the stock fuelpump at about 190,000 miles with an AIRTEX. The only one they had in stock at Advance Auto. Then, at 220,000 miles the pump stopped working. I did everything by the book, clean tank, new parts, so when the car died it took a while to diagnose. If you have replaced your pump with an AIRTEX and your car suddenly stops running, check your fuel pressure.

Back to Advance Auto, the only place open on Sunday and I need to get this car running. Guess what? Only AIRTEX in stock. Hmm, I wonder why?
The root of a lot of evil.:rofl:
I would say the make more markup/profit on airtex.

So far Carquest is the smart one that has dropped airtex like a hot spud and stocks Delfi OEM type fuel pumps.

I jumped O' rielly auto parts about the Airtex crap.
And made the pay for replacement labor on two bad one puls tow bills

They promised me they were going to switch over to Delphi.

But so far they have failed to live up to the promise.:rofl:

Just as an FYI for those of you who avoid Airtex Fuel Pumps, NAPA has switched their main supplier TO Airtex.

Alternatively, Bosch and Delphi pumps ARE also available at NAPA, but most dont keep them instock.


Source of information - I work at NAPA.

P.S. Airtex fuel pumps SUCK. We've been selling airtex for about 6 months and have started having comebacks for the pumps. Prior to the switch to Airtex, we sold Carter pumps and had very very very few comebacks.

Here is another Update. The Airtex Piece of Crap fuel pump that I installed in Oct. 2008 in my 2000 Jimmy SLE is starting to go with 21 months of service.

I can tell it is starting to go because the fuel gage is all goofy and goes back and forth like a windshield wiper before settling down. This is exactly what the other one did too before it died.

I take this as a tell tale sure fire omen that I am about to need a new fuel pump. You can bet your sweet @$$ that I will install an AC Delco-Delphi Pump this time.

Never Install an Airtex pump period, even if you have to wait a day for a different parts store to open. You'll thank me later.

Just some news to the guys. 1 out of every 5 fuel pumps currently in operation in the world is an Airtex fuel pump. 1 out of every three fuel pumps sold in the US is an Airtex fuel pump. Airtex is an OE supplier for the automotive and industrial markets. They also produce the the fuel pump in the military hum-vee and predator drone. They have been making fuel pumps for more than 75 years. They are currently competing to have the largest number of sku's and best coverage in the industry. As far as fuel pump concernns go did you know almost half of the fuel pumps returned to Airtex pass all tests and perform to new pump standards? Did you know 21% of returned fuel pumps are contaminated with rust, dirt or silt? This isn't to say that no one has a legitimate concern when it comes to their fuel pump. However, miss-diagnosis is rampant and modern fuel pumps are tight tolerance high speed components that require clean fuel and a good fuel filter. Airtex has an open door to help do it yourselfers and shops alike. They have an awesome web-site with all the information you need to diagnose and repair the fuel delivery system and they never turn away anyone who asks for advice or helpful tips about diagnosis and repair. By the way- Airtex is still manufacturing fuel pumps in the good old USA. Made in the USA still means something doesn't it? -just a comment from an ASE Master Technician and fellow American.

AIRTEX WILL LIE THERE REAR ENDS OFF TO.
I have many airtex fumps and tested the bad Airtex pumps and had them send it only to be told by airtex nothing wrong with them.
Carquest auto parts had so many bad ones the dropped them like a hot spud.

Gm uses Delphi OEM.

How many airtex pumps have you installed on chev s-10 trucks and blazers in the last 2-3 years without any problems?
I have had a fail rate of well over 1/2 and have saw 3 bad ones in a row on some.

-just a comment from an ASE Master Technician and fellow American.

Doubtful.

More like " just a comment from Airtex"

Spam somewhere else, NooB.

Just some news to the guys. 1 out of every 5 fuel pumps currently in operation in the world is an Airtex fuel pump. 1 out of every three fuel pumps sold in the US is an Airtex fuel pump. Airtex is an OE supplier for the automotive and industrial markets. They also produce the the fuel pump in the military hum-vee and predator drone. They have been making fuel pumps for more than 75 years. They are currently competing to have the largest number of sku's and best coverage in the industry. As far as fuel pump concernns go did you know almost half of the fuel pumps returned to Airtex pass all tests and perform to new pump standards? Did you know 21% of returned fuel pumps are contaminated with rust, dirt or silt? This isn't to say that no one has a legitimate concern when it comes to their fuel pump. However, miss-diagnosis is rampant and modern fuel pumps are tight tolerance high speed components that require clean fuel and a good fuel filter. Airtex has an open door to help do it yourselfers and shops alike. They have an awesome web-site with all the information you need to diagnose and repair the fuel delivery system and they never turn away anyone who asks for advice or helpful tips about diagnosis and repair. By the way- Airtex is still manufacturing fuel pumps in the good old USA. Made in the USA still means something doesn't it? -just a comment from an ASE Master Technician and fellow American.

Being the largest, or having the largest market share doesn’t mean a thing. I don’t care how long Airtex has been in the business. I sure hope none of our military people lose their lives as a result of Airtex being the lowest bidder with their faulty fuel pumps. You make it sound like the majority of the mechanics that diagnose and replace fuel pumps don’t know what they’re doing, or are out to do nothing more than gouge the unsuspecting vehicle owner.

Being an ASE Master Technician, what is your personal success rate with Airtex Fuel Pumps? Or are you simply employed by Airtex?

You say that ALMOST HALF of the pumps returned pass all tests and perform to new pump standards. THAT MEANS OVER HALF OF THEM DON’T. I have never had an Auto Parts Store or Garage accept a return on a part that was out of warranty, Fuel Pump or not. There is no core charge on Fuel Pumps, so looking at all of these returned Fuel pumps that were tested by Airtex, how old were they? I’ll bet most if not all of the returned pumps were still under warranty. If that is true, 50+ percent of the returned Airtex pumps didn’t make it past warranty. Why don’t you tell us the average service life of these returned pumps, and how many of these returned pumps failed right out of the box without seeing ANY service time? Did Airtex not tell you those little pieces of information? Don’t stand there and wave the good ‘ol American flag to justify a 50+ percent failure rate. Simply put, you can make charts, graphs and statistics look as good or as bad as you want.

What is the return rate and life longevity statistics of AC Delco Delphi , Bosch, or any of the other Fuel Pump manufacturers compared to Airtex, American made or not? The Japanese Auto industry almost crippled the Big 3 American Automobile Manufacturers, why? Because Detroit would not listen until it was almost too late. I have never owned a foreign car and never will, but the facts speak for themselves. Every American, Canadian and probably every car owner worldwide for that matter, wants two things, Dependable and Cheap automobiles, including parts and repairs. Airtex Fuel pumps are not dependable, Period, and You and Airtex are displaying the same attitude as Detroit, You won't listen to your customers.

Please tell us exactly, just for the record, what are the specific New Airtex Pump Standards? What is the minimum pressure needed to pass and how long does it have to hold that pressure after the pump is shut off? Is there noise level criteria? What is the criteria for the Fuel Gauge Sending unit? How long does this factory bench test take to perform, start to finish?

JUST BECAUSE A FUEL PUMP WILL PASS MINIMAL BENCH TESTS IN A LABORATORY UNDER PERFECT CONDITIONS DOESN’T MEAN IT WILL START THE VEHICLE AND RUN EVERY DAY WITH LESS THAN PERFECT FIELD CONDITIONS, YEAR AFTER YEAR.

I had one of Airtex’s finest pieces of garbage that was only 6 months old and still under warranty, quit on me on the freeway during afternoon rush hour and had to be towed off by a tow truck. The next morning my mechanic was able to start the truck and keep it running long enough get it onto the garage lift. This pump was squealing so loud you could hear it over the engine at idle while standing 50 feet away from the truck. I AM SURE THIS PUMP WOULD HAVE PASSED A MINIMAL BENCH TEST FOR PRESSURE IN A LABORATORY UNDER PERFECT CONDITIONS. My current Airtex Pump (Warranty replacement) is still working, but my dashboard Gas Gauge is useless thanks to the bad Sending unit on the fuel pump, and the pump won’t hold pressure after shut off.

You say clean fuel and a good fuel filter are required. We are all at the mercy of the Fuel companies and Filling stations when it comes to what comes out of the Gas pump. Yes, a clogged Fuel filter will cause pump failure, but Fuel filters are on the discharge side of the pump, and do nothing to keep debris out of the fuel pump itself; that is the job of the Filter Sock INSIDE OF THE GAS TANK. If Airtex has that much market share, one would surely think they would design a better pump that is unaffected by any rust, dirt or silt. Maybe it would be as simple as a better filter sock on the suction side of their worthless pumps.

This is starting to sound like Dexcool, don’t blame my precious product, blame it on poor maintenance, blame it on neglect, blame it on lousy/greedy mechanics, blame it on bad gas, blame it on STUPID CONSUMERS, Wave the American Flag, but just don’t blame it on my cash cow.

Rick, nice job, couldn't have said it better myself!

Another thing to be aware of.
Brands are for sale in the parts market.
And even airtex may be a Made in USA you can not trust a lot of brands any more.
Big parts places have will have a batch of parts stamped with a major brand like airtex made up to there own specs at a very big discount price.

So what you get from that deal is not the actual OEM type/specs pump with the OEM original parts and specs.
But a cheaper piece of crap with a high fail rate.

You brought up a lot of discussion areas. It would have been an interesting discussion if you had brought them up one by one. However, I don't have all the information you asked me for because I'm not industrial or manufacturing expert. I'm a mechanic. Regardless, I thank you for letting me give my thoughts on the topic.

You brought up a lot of discussion areas. It would have been an interesting discussion if you had brought them up one by one. However, I don't have all the information you asked me for because I'm not industrial or manufacturing expert. I'm a mechanic. Regardless, I thank you for letting me give my thoughts on the topic.
Let's start with the first one, Are you employed by Airtex?

On August 12, 2010 my 10 year old baby (2000 GMC Jimmy SLE) underwent a surgical procedure to remove the malfunctioning foreign object from within its digestive system. I had the Airtex Fuel pump removed and replaced with an AC-Delco MU1733 19177220 fuel pump. The sending unit on the Airtex Fuel pump was already toast, as was the check valve that holds the pressure after the engine shuts off. The pump would still start the truck, but was taking longer and longer to crank and finally start.

I am happy to report that the patient has recovered nicely and is doing well.

You can’t believe what a weight has been lifted from my shoulders knowing that I avoided another inevitable breakdown due to the Airtex Fuel Pump, which was an absolute certainty, and only a matter of time.

The problem first started in October, 2007 when I ignorantly replaced my OEM Fuel Pump with a cheap aftermarket replacement to save a few dollars. Little did I know that it would cost me over twice the amount of money than if I would have simply stayed with OEM from the beginning. Even though I only paid for the first Airtex Pump, the labor costs to R&R three Airtex Fuel pumps more than made up the difference.

Three Airtex aftermarket fuel pumps in less than three years tells the tale. The first two did not last 6 months each, while the third almost made 22 months. The original AC-Delco OEM pump lasted 7 years and probably would have lasted a lot longer had I been vigilant in changing the Fuel Filter. I had to learn the hard way.

The world seems right now that we’re back to OEM. I now feel confident that I can once again depend on my truck instead of worrying about a looming failure in some forlorn location at time when I can’t afford to be without my truck.

Stay away from Airtex Fuel Pumps and change your Fuel Filter at least once a year, twice a year is even better.

I am writing this so you don’t make the same stupid mistakes that I made. That's what this Forum is all about.

22 months out of an Airtex???? :runaround: That's gotta to be a record, better call the factory, maybe they need a testimonial! Some people pay hard earned money for that crap, all in the name of saving a few bucks short term. Spend a little more and do the job the right way one time and be done. Glad you've installed some confidence, Rick.

I think I will see if I can do a TV commercial for them. LOL. NOT! :shakehead :screwy:

The stupidest part about Aftermarket pumps saving a few Dollars is exactly that, A FEW Dollars. Go on line and see for yourself. The difference between OEM and Aftermarket in my case was less than $50 USD. I was originally quoted a much higher price in 2007 for an OEM Fuel Pump, but now that I did my Homework...........

Rick-

You must be a little hard of reading because I posted twice that I'm a mechanic. But look buddy, I've got more than 20 years of fixing cars under my belt. I grew up in the shop. I can remember when I was a little kid arguing the Chevy/Ford thing with other little boys in the neighborhood. Never once did anyone back down. Sadly, that's you and me, now. And you know what? I'm an old guy, and I don't care anymore. After some consideration, I've decided I don't have the time or patience to argue with you.

With all respect, good bye and good luck.

Rick-

You must be a little hard of reading because I posted twice that I'm a mechanic. But look buddy, I've got more than 20 years of fixing cars under my belt. I grew up in the shop. I can remember when I was a little kid arguing the Chevy/Ford thing with other little boys in the neighborhood. Never once did anyone back down. Sadly, that's you and me, now. And you know what? I'm an old guy, and I don't care anymore. After some consideration, I've decided I don't have the time or patience to argue with you.

With all respect, good bye and good luck.

No sir, I am not hard of reading. I did read your posts and saw the fact that you are a mechanic, both times. I have nothing but respect for you and anyone else that earns their living by twisting wrenches, as long as they do it honestly. I am not trying to insinuate anything regarding your integrity, but you posted an awful lot of what I call inside information regarding Airtex Fuel Pumps. I don’t know where or how you got that information; perhaps it came from the Airtex Salesman. Regardless of where it came from, I felt compelled to challenge it, as it was completely contrary to my own personal experience.

You and I may agree to disagree; However, I hold no grudge. If you want to use Airtex Fuel Pumps on your vehicles and those of your customers after all that you have read in this thread, that is certainly your prerogative. I sincerely hope that you have better luck with them than I did.

I am no spring chicken myself with no desire to argue either, however, I feel duty bound to help others. I would sincerely encourage you to do the same and chime in on this forum and share your 20 years of experience with us. There are many people that could benefit by your help.

With all due respect,

Rick

I know a bunch of shops that use airtex stuff and swear they are decent pumps.
I hope so, I didn't have the energy and time to research it more when I replaced mine last week.
airtex is all everyone sells around me.
I didn't feel like searching all over town for something else.
the documents with the pump said the stock wire connector is the reason so many of them fail and you have to replace it with their supplied connector period. or you can't even plug it in it's completely different.

I know a bunch of shops that use airtex stuff and swear they are decent pumps.
I hope so, I didn't have the energy and time to research it more when I replaced mine last week.
airtex is all everyone sells around me.
I didn't feel like searching all over town for something else.
the documents with the pump said the stock wire connector is the reason so many of them fail and you have to replace it with their supplied connector period. or you can't even plug it in it's completely different.

Thanks for posting on your situation and the opinions of shops in your area.
We hope the Airtex pump works out for you.
But for 25 more you could have order a good Delphi fuel pump.
And have been done with it with out having to replace your airtex again and again.

What is your year and model and engine?
What failed on your old pump?
Was it a airtex pump or other brand that failed?
Did you run a pressure test before and after replacement?

I just got a 97 Olds bravado 4.3 in last week that had a airtex pump installed 3 years ago it is failing to pump pressure.
About the longest as I have saw one last.
Some fail before they get out door and some fail in a week or two and some 3 mo and a year.
But almost allmost all fail to soon.

And yes very few parts places beside dealer stock anything else.
They make more profit on airtex sad to say at customer expense.
And sad to say many repair shops install airtex pumps.
But can order the good Delphi for 25 dollars more.
Carquest is the only smart place .
They dropped airtex like a hot spud for to many come backs.
And other parts places will tell you airtex has a high fail rate if you pin them down.

Thanks for posting on your situation and the opinions of shops in your area.
We hope the Airtex pump works out for you.
But for 25 more you could have order a good Delphi fuel pump.
And have been done with it with out having to replace your airtex again and again.

What is your year and model and engine?
What failed on your old pump?
Was it a airtex pump or other brand that failed?
Did you run a pressure test before and after replacement?

I just got a 97 Olds bravado 4.3 in last week that had a airtex pump installed 3 years ago it is failing to pump pressure.
About the longest as I have saw one last.
Some fail before they get out door and some fail in a week or two and some 3 mo and a year.
But almost allmost all fail to soon.

And yes very few parts places beside dealer stock anything else.
They make more profit on airtex sad to say at customer expense.
And sad to say many repair shops install airtex pumps.
But can order the good Delphi for 25 dollars more.
Carquest is the only smart place .
They dropped airtex like a hot spud for to many come backs.
And other parts places will tell you airtex has a high fail rate if you pin them down.

I know the guys that own a shop and said they've never had a comeback from a airtex pump. they've been using them for at least 9 years he said.

anyway, my truck is a 2002 sonoma 4.3L. 110k miles. stock pump just simply stopped working on the highway. pressure before 0. after 63 key on engine off. 56 running. I also have a 97 sonoma with the 2.2 4cyl and it still has the stock pump (178K miles)
the paperwork that came with the pump says the pumps fail because of the stock gm connectors. airtex redesigned the pump connectors and include a new wire harness.

if it does fail I'm going with a walbro pump. chrysler puts those in their cars/vans/trucks. and everyone is telling me chrysler rarely has fuel pump problems.
plus I can get a walbro complete pump assembly for $160 on the net. I wish I seen that before I possibly wasted $300 for a airtex

Must be they don't install very many ;)

The electrical connector "fix" has been around for years, most every pump manufacturer includes the new connector with their pump, including AC Delco. The problems with Airtex are numerous and common: Noisy, low maximum output, low volume output, leaky check valves, short life span, etc etc. About the only thing they had going for them was the price. Now you can get a genuine AC Delco pump repair kit for around $60. Airtex needs to get their poop in a group. You'll never get 110K from an airtex pump.... darn lucky to get 10K.

I know the guys that own a shop and said they've never had a comeback from a airtex pump. they've been using them for at least 9 years he said.

anyway, my truck is a 2002 sonoma 4.3L. 110k miles. stock pump just simply stopped working on the highway. pressure before 0. after 63 key on engine off. 56 running. I also have a 97 sonoma with the 2.2 4cyl and it still has the stock pump (178K miles)
the paperwork that came with the pump says the pumps fail because of the stock gm connectors. airtex redesigned the pump connectors and include a new wire harness.

if it does fail I'm going with a walbro pump. chrysler puts those in their cars/vans/trucks. and everyone is telling me chrysler rarely has fuel pump problems.
plus I can get a walbro complete pump assembly for $160 on the net. I wish I seen that before I possibly wasted $300 for a airtex
Of course they swear by them. We’ve all heard the sales pitches from the parts stores, garages etc. They get that propaganda from Airtex and use it because they don’t want to loose the business. I actually had a Parts Counter man tell me that he sells tons of Airtex pumps and mine was the first one he ever had to replace. I have also had at least one garage owner tell me personally that he will ABSOLUTELY NOT install Airtex Fuel pumps because most of them won’t make it through the warranty, and then he’s on the hook for free labor to replace it.

If you read earlier posts in this thread, you will see that Airtex (reportedly) owns the lion’s share of the fuel pump market in the U.S. They want to flood the market with their cheap pumps. There are too many shops and parts stores that are willing to offer these GARBAGE replacement pumps rather than provide the OEM pumps thinking that they’re saving you money.

Ultimately, you have to gamble on whether you will get a GOOD cheap pump. You made that bet just like I did. I lost my bet, because the most I got out of 3 different Airtex pumps was 22 months. I found out the hard way that I got what I paid for. We’ll see what happens with you, I sincerely hope you have better luck.

If you don’t ask for or insist on AC-Delco Delphi Pumps, which just about every parts store and garage can order for you, they will sell you what they have on the shelf. I know that when my original OEM pump went out in 2007, there was a huge difference in price (almost twice the amount) but that is not the case anymore. The cost between the cheap aftermarket pumps and OEM pumps are not that much different. I checked www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com) today, 9/8/2010, and the AC-Delco Pump for my truck was $41 more than the Airtex pump (base price without shipping).

The early original fuel pump connector from the factory has 4 wires in a square plug with a wire in each quadrant, which was in fact the cause of many failures. The new connector, which also came on my first Airtex pump, has 4 wires in a flat plug with all 4 wires in a row. The stock wire harness is NOT the reason why the AIRTEX pumps fail. The Airtex pumps make you replace the connector.

Airtex pumps are a gamble, plain and simple. Remember, Talk is cheap; you will get what you pay for, and all I can do is repeat the title of this very thread, AIRTEX FUEL PUMPS - BUYER BEWARE.

Must be they don't install very many ;)

The electrical connector "fix" has been around for years, most every pump manufacturer includes the new connector with their pump, including AC Delco. The problems with Airtex are numerous and common: Noisy, low maximum output, low volume output, leaky check valves, short life span, etc etc. About the only thing they had going for them was the price. Now you can get a genuine AC Delco pump repair kit for around $60. Airtex needs to get their poop in a group. You'll never get 110K from an airtex pump.... darn lucky to get 10K.

And don't forget the Gas Gauge Sending Unit malfunction which renders your gas gauge on your dashboard totally useless, or the flex tube on the pump that isn't crimped tight and leaks internally.

I want to say it again, YOU WILL NEVER GET 110K MILES OUT OF AN AIRTEX FUEL PUMP.

And don't forget the Gas Gauge Sending Unit malfunction which renders your gas gauge on your dashboard totally useless, or the flex tube on the pump that isn't crimped tight and leaks internally.


Yup, good point! Been there, seen both problems, numerous times!

I don't know why you guys would use a AC Delco pump again. GM has to have the highest fuel pump failure rate among all the car companies.
reinstalling anything they came with is losing situation if you ask me.
all of their fluids should be changed out in the first year of service, especially the dexcool coolant that is proven to deteriorate stock intake gaskets.
the sooner you get rid of all the stock gm fluids the better. that includes the brake fluid.
the only ac delco products I will use is the spark plugs and battery.

like I said, if this pump fails in less than a few years or under 90k miles I'll agree with you guys. but I've seen plenty of internet people come up with the craziest stories and suggestions I rarely want to believe anyone.
for instance motorcycle guys swear up and down using a diesel engine oil in a motorcycle engine that reaches 15,500 rpm is ok.
and breaking in a engine by beating it from day one is the way you should do it to get the most life and power from it..a guy even made a website and proclaims himself as a professional race engine builder and said you should beat on a new engine on purpose. without any break in period. and all manufactures are wrong about how they suggest a break in period. so guess what, everyone now believes this guy over every single motorcycle company. lol

anyone with a keyboard thinks they are a mechanical engineer.

That may be so, but aftermarket pumps, especially Airtex, rarely get half of the mileage that AC Delco pumps do. I'll gladly make a little less profit and do the job once, rather than do the job a second, (or third) time for free. I'd much rather have a customer unhappy about the price than to have him knowing that I use inferior parts. When an aftermarket company manufactures a pump that meets or exceeds all OEM specs, I'll consider installing it.

I don't know why you guys would use a AC Delco pump again. GM has to have the highest fuel pump failure rate among all the car companies.
reinstalling anything they came with is losing situation if you ask me.
all of their fluids should be changed out in the first year of service, especially the dexcool coolant that is proven to deteriorate stock intake gaskets.
the sooner you get rid of all the stock gm fluids the better. that includes the brake fluid.
the only ac delco products I will use is the spark plugs and battery.

like I said, if this pump fails in less than a few years or under 90k miles I'll agree with you guys. but I've seen plenty of internet people come up with the craziest stories and suggestions I rarely want to believe anyone.
for instance motorcycle guys swear up and down using a diesel engine oil in a motorcycle engine that reaches 15,500 rpm is ok.
and breaking in a engine by beating it from day one is the way you should do it to get the most life and power from it..a guy even made a website and proclaims himself as a professional race engine builder and said you should beat on a new engine on purpose. without any break in period. and all manufactures are wrong about how they suggest a break in period. so guess what, everyone now believes this guy over every single motorcycle company. lol

anyone with a keyboard thinks they are a mechanical engineer.
Well Brother, I got a news flash for you. You better include a distributor cap in your list or you'll be sorry AGAIN.

Ask anyone what their milage was when their OEM AC-Delco Fuel Pump went out. The largest majority will tell you that it was over 100K miles. Mine went out at 105K miles. Mine went out then because I didn't change the fuel filter.

If I only get 50K miles (or half of 100K) out of the Brand new AC-Delco pump that I just installed last month I will be happy BECAUSE I COULD NOT GET ONE FOURTH OF THAT OUT OF AN AIRTEX PUMP. I GOT LESS THAN 25K OUT OF ONE PUMP WHICH IS NOT EVEN 1/4 OF MY ORIGINAL OEM PUMP MILAGE. I GOT LESS THAN 6-7K MILES EACH OUT OF THE OTHER TWO PUMPS THAT FAILED IN LESS THAN 6 MONTHS EACH.

I agree with you on some of the crackpot stuff you read on the internet, even on this forum. I also agree with you on the Dexcool 100%. However, here is an interesting question, MT-2500, Old Master, and I have been preaching AC-Delco Delphi pumps for a couple of years now, why aren't we reading about AC-Delco Fuel Pump failures IN THIS THREAD?

No, I am not a mechanical engineer, I'm just a consumer trying to help other consumers avoid the pitfalls and expense that I experienced. Feel free to boycott OEM parts all you want, after all, it is your truck and your money.

Just came across a NEW problem, haven't seen this one before!

Yesterday a guy dropped off his 98 Blazer. He's had it in so many shops he can't count, including 3 different GM dealerships. Nobody can find the problem. Cold start is fine, no problems at all, starts and runs perfect. After a hot soak, anywhere from 5 minutes to around 2 hours, it turns over fine but does not start. Acts like no spark. Sometimes it will try to start and then idles rough for 1 or 2 seconds, then it dies. Crank it again and it might fire right up like nothing ever happened. Once it's running, it runs perfect.

Vehicle history:
His receipts include: Distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, ECM, TP sensor, MAF sensor, MAP sensor, fuel pressure tests, injector cleaner, fuel system treatment, distributor including the cam sensor, crankshaft position sensor, injector assembly upgrade, battery, some of the battery cables, fuel pump relay, ignition switch, ignition module, ignition coil, countless OBD scans, and for some unknown reason, the fuel cap. After all of this stuff, the problem was still there. Needless to say, the guy is pissed and broke!

When I got in the vehicle and turned the key to the RUN position, the fuel pump came on for pump prime, and shut off. I turned the key to START and it cranked a little longer than what I call "normal", (maybe a second, 2 at the most), and tried to start, stumbled a bit, and stalled. I turned the key OFF and tried again. During pump prime the normal pump whirr was present, but it didn't sound just right. There was the normal whirr of the pump at first, then I could hear it change pitch just before it shut off. On a hunch, I connected the fuel pressure tester... KOEO 63psi, drop to 60psi and held rock solid for 15 minutes...perfect. Not sure if you're aware, but 98 has blank terminal just in front of the fuel pump relay. That terminal goes directly to the fuel pump. I connected a fused jumper wire to battery power and touched the other end to the terminal. The pump came on and pressurized the system to 63psi again. Removed battery power and it held at 60psi. With the system pressurized, I touched power to the terminal again and watched the fuel pressure and listened to the pump. Pump turned on, pressure never budged for about 5 seconds, and then jumped to 63psi. The instant the pressure jumped up, the pump motor changed pitch and worked fine. Hmmmm, pump's coming on, but not building pressure right away, WTF??? Connected an ammeter to check pump motor draw... 6 amps initially, then when the pump changes pitch, amperage draw drops to 5 amps. Time to drop the tank and do a visual on the module connector and pump. Module connector is fine, pull the module out. Hot wired battery voltage directly to the pump terminals... it sounded like a two speed motor when it started. Put a Delphi pump in.... all fixed!

Obviously, I called the guy before replacing his pump, that's when he told me it was replaced with an Airtex pump about 6 months before the no start problem started happening. He was surprised the pump could have a problem being it was so new. I gave him the "buyer beware" speech and as close as I can calculate, in the long run, the Delphi pump was about 2 grand less than the Airtex pump!

I call bs because airtex puts a sticker on the pump that is hard as hell to pull off. and why would anyone go through the trouble to pull it off?
it was probably not a airtex.
2 grand less? what??

hell I just found out my brother used a airtex pump in his 96 sunfire. installed it in 2004 and it's still working just fine.

I had a 91 z-28 that would start dying out only after the engine warmed up. no one could figure that one out. it turned out the fuel pump was going bad. and talk about a nightmare to replace on a camaro. I've seen fuel pumps cause all kinds of odd things.

....2 grand less? what??...

If he replaced the pump with a Delphi or an AC Delco in the first place, he certainly wouldn't have spent all that money trying to fix the problem! Even if you put all that aside and chalk it up to inexperienced technicians, he still had to replace the pump, and pay at least the labor charge, (extremely rare for a shop to cover labor on a 8 month old part).

I paid $269.00 in Oct. 2007 for my brand new Airtex fuel pump and paid a mechanic $200 to install it.

6 months later in April, 2008 I managed to get a new Airtex Fuel pump under warranty for free, but I had to pay my mechanic $100 to install it. He gave me a break because he felt partially responsible.

6 months after that, Oct. 2008, I got another new Airtex Fuel Pump for free because it was still under warranty, and had to pay my mechanic another $200 for Labor, no break this time.

22 months later August, 2010, I had to buy an AC-Delco pump for $310 and had to pay another $200 for labor.

I won't count the $200 in towing bills that was covered by my insurance company.

So let's recap. By my count I paid $769.00 USD needlessly because I was too stupid to listen to my mechanic on the very first pump and go with an OEM AC-Delco Fuel Pump.

THEY'RE NOT HAPPY UNTIL YOU'RE NOT HAPPY!

AIRTEX FUEL PUMPS - BUYER BEWARE

The good thing is, you at least got two years out of your Delphi pump. I am averaging 6 months with the Airtex pumps. The fuel pump that I bought with the bad gaskets was a Bosch. See my Thread http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=532268 So yes, I am sure each and every manufacturer will have their issues.

Here is what I want to really know, or in other words, what should or should not be done to help us get the maximum life out of these pumps regardless of who the manufacturer is:

1. The number One biggest and simplest thing we can do, as I already stated, is to regularly change the fuel filter. Once a year as a rule.

2. I continue to hear the “never let your tank drop below ¼ full” theory. Some say yes, some say it doesn’t matter. I know it doesn’t hurt to keep your fuel tank above the ¼ full mark. Let’s hear from the experts.

3. What about additives? Are certain additives harmful to the system? Here is my thought. I am reasonably sure the additive itself won’t harm the pump; however, these cleaners dissolve the crap from fuel injectors etc. I have to believe they also dissolve the crap from the inside of the tank and either clog the filter sock at the bottom of the pump to a small degree, and most assuredly clog the filter. Some people I am sure do not follow the dilution recommendations on the bottle and instead of adding a bottle to 10 or 20 gallons of gas, they simply add it to whatever is in the tank and run a concentrated solution through the system.

Comments anyone?

A friend who is a mechanic and service manger at a GM dealership suggest running a bit of AFT in the gas at all times, he claims this will prolong the life of the fuel pump. I asked him about running fuel additives, his thought was that's good for you fuel system yet you need the AFT for the fuel pump. He claims those who run AFT do not have fuel pump troubles.

A friend who is a mechanic and service manger at a GM dealership suggest running a bit of AFT in the gas at all times, he claims this will prolong the life of the fuel pump. I asked him about running fuel additives, his thought was that's good for you fuel system yet you need the AFT for the fuel pump. He claims those who run AFT do not have fuel pump troubles.

O.K. I'll ask the obvious, what is AFT? Do you mean ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid)? Please be More specific.

And as long as were on the subject of clarification, How much is "A BIT of AFT"?

And Just for the record, I doubt any additive would help an Airtex Fuel Pump.

Of course ATF is Automatic Transmission Fluid, always has been to those who knows just a little about cars and trucks. I would suppose 8 to 10 OZ per tank of gas.

Does it work, don't know, although I did put 8 to 10 OZ's in my just a few times, suppose I did not do it enough to know if it works or not.

I did ask him about injection cleaner? Said he did not use them, only recommended AFT and it was the only thing he ever used. His claim was it helped the insides of the pump.

I do know one thing back in my truck driving days AFT was the best thing you could add to your diesel fuel to keep the injection pump and injectors in good condition. Much better than injector cleaner plus it was cheaper. I can say it seemed to work rather good for I never had an injector pump nor injector go bad running back and forth between the east and west coast.

Thanks for the Clarification Jerry. We have had a lot of different suggestions for Fuel Additives but this is the first I've ever heard of Automatic Transmission Fluid.

You more than welcome.

Right now I'm wishing I had followed his advice, if I had perhaps my blazer would not be getting its 4th fuel pump.

I can't say anything for anyone else, only what I've been through.

I haven't tried Airtex, but I tried some other aftermarket brand I got on ebay. Let me tell you folks, these guys here knows what they're talking about. I read somewhere here about the pumps for these Chevys. About not getting anything but Acdelco or Bosch because of the pressure problem. I was in a pinch and went ahead and got the cheap ones. It starts out fine for about 6 months, then craps out in about a year. Those pumps cost about $100 at that time each. I went through about 3 in 3 years. I even got just the motor and swapped it out using the same housing. I learned, after my 2nd one, to let it prime for about 2 seconds then crank it. Otherwise it will turn about 2-5 seconds before it starts.

I finally found an Acdelco for about $200 and broke down and got it. It's been over 3 years with no problems. Starts with 1 crank consistently without priming it for 2 seconds. If I had only listened, the time I would've saved not to mention money.

The factory one crapped at about 75,000 miles. But I always drove it down to E. I was thinking doing so would get any moisture out from the fuel. Now I fuel up at 1/4 tank. I suggest to only get Acdelco for these Chevys.

The fuel pump I just removed was a Cater, was installed in 2005, it was my 2nd fuel pump, don't know what brand the 1st replacement pump was.

The original went about 130,000 miles. With it we did not keep the tank full, yet I have with the later ones, seems not to help. Hardly ever has my tank been below 1/2 full.

I've had 3 since 130,000 miles, not it has a bit over 159,000.

My blazer has always started on the 1st crank, except when fuel pumps went bad and at about 60,000 when my cap, rotor, plug wires went bad.

The original went 130,000 and then 3 pumps in 30,000 miles, wow. Just think, if the first replacement was an AC Delco, you'd still have 100,000 miles left on it! But, there is something to be said for getting a new pump every few months ;)

Yes, there is something to be said about getting a new fuel pump every few months, and its not good and I refuse to say it.

December 09 we got our 2010 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab 4X4 V6. Which we had a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee that had about 100,000 miles on that we bought new in mid 2002.

Being as I had new fuel pump, new injector assembly in my 92 S-10, had front end work done on it, and its in good condition, I kept it and sold the Jeep. Several fuel pumps might make me think I made a bad decision. Although the Jeep was a good ride and we had no problems out of it, I still like the S-10 Blazer better.

Thought I would add my own experience with an Airtex pump, though my vehicle is a Dodge Caravan, not a Chevy Blazer.

About a week ago I had to change out the fuel pump (original) after 120k miles; pump still worked fine, but had developed a small crack in the out-going port that had a nasty habit of spraying fuel towards the exhaust pipe. Anyway, I got a replacement Airtex pump from O'reilly, and put it in with a new fuel filter. The new pump had a bad check valve out of the box and wouldn't hold pressure when the car was shut off... of course having just replaced it I tore the rest of the engine apart to check the fuel rail and injectors before coming to that realization. Unfortunately I've just put another Airtex in the tank I got from the warranty... this one works so far; does run about 2 PSI higher than it should, but at least the check valve is working for the moment. I just wonder how long it will be before this one dies. I wonder if O'reilly will refund the cost of this piece of junk so I can buy an OEM (90 bucks more and not typically in stock)