b16a1 swap question

alright, looking at getting a B16, mabey, to replace my dead B18a1...now i what can i used from my B18a1 swap if i decided to get this B16? and can i keep my obd0 if i get a PR3 ecu?

or better yet, is it possible to get a b18b and make it obd0?

Just run your B18A1 dizzy and ECU, done.

Just run your B18A1 dizzy and ECU, done.

easy enough...same for B20?

Basically, its one of the simplest things: The majority of the time, just as long as you stick with the same ECU/Dizzy pair, you can swap it around to run what OBD you need. Ofcourse it won't exactly as intended, but it will run just fine with it. The main time there are complications with doing that is when VTEC comes into play because of the ECU.

i was thinking that but wasn't too sure

You won't have Vtec w/ the B16 if you keep your ECU tho... for clarity.

Also your fuel maps wont be right for a b16..but it should run.

should run slightly rich... about .2 liters worth of rich.
lacking Vtec, etc... but only until you get the right ECU and dizzy combo for it... and if you're sticking OBD-0, you just get the PR3, and sell the OBD-1 dizz for $75.

i kno i won't have vtec if i keep my PR4 ecu, hence my first question

K, so use the PR3, and use the dizzy from the B18, that will keep it OBD-0.

You won't need to use the dizzy if the B16 you're getting is already OBD-0 tho.

Or you could chip the PR4 and make it Vtec... or you could use a chipped PM6, or you could use the PS9 chipped and use the auto lockup solenoid (A8) for the Vtec solenoid... using the stock maps and only editing that one thing, then throwing some better maps at your topend (after crossover).

In short, you actually have a few options for OBD-0... use whatever one is best for you... probably the PR3 if you can get one readily.

Theres also the pw-0, but thats a jdm ecu and unless your engine comes with it you might not find one. I have seen them for sale and my crx ran one.

I love how you guys make it complicated.

Adrian, have you decided which engine you are going for?

at the moment it's a toss up between 2 different B16's, one that noone will get back to me about, a B18b that i'm waiting on an answer from, and a B18a that is a complete engine...if i get either of those i may end up with my complete B18a sitting in a corner somewhere

Well if you get a VTEC engine, you have many options like they have mentioned. If you get a non-VTEC, you can just run your current ECU and Dizzy for now without a problem.

Us? Make things complicated? What?!?

Lol.. we just want to make sure he has ALL the pertinent information, so he can make an informed and educated decision!

do i use my B18 injectors if i get a b16?

ECU and Dizzy

Unless it has OBD2 Injectors, then switch them so you can plug them up. If its OBD1, its the same clip. You just need to find out what kind of injectors they are, if they require a resistor box or not: If so, keep them, if not-you can swap them or splice all the red/black wires together.

I may try and go get this engine this weekend...but it's 6hrs away in Delaware :( should be a fun drive
i got a ls with like no miles on it. i was building a ls to rum on the bottle but i have no need for my honda parts anymore. im try my luck with a s13 for now. so if you interested hit me up.

B20 P75 HEAD
PORT MATCHED
96 LS CAMS
0BD0 DIZZY
93 LS MANIFOLD


B18A BLOCK
NEW RINGS
ACL BEARINGS
NEW OIL PUMP
NEW WATER PUMP
LS RODS
PR3 PISTONS
NEW TIMMING BELT
NEW HEAD GASKET
NEEDS A FLYWHEEL AND OIL PICK UP
I WOULD LIKE TO GET 500.00 FOR THE MOTOR
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q101/moreteck/Picture148.jpg


99 B16A2 SI MOTOR
MOTOR HAS NEVER BEEN CRACKED OPEN. IT HAS LESS THEN 30,000 MILES ON IT. IT COMES WITH EVERYTHING BUT ECU,TRANNY, OR AXELS.....I WANT 900.00 FIRM
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q101/moreteck/jamesm001.jpg

How exactly can you tell if a motor has never been "cracked open"... I'd be weary of that one... just b/c he had to say it... like he's trying to convince someone.

That LS/B20 combo might work out nice for you... it'll be the same as you had, but more power, and it's fresh... only thing is if you can trust the engine building skills of someone else...

But, for $500 vs. $900, I'd still honestly go for the B18/B20. The $400 you're saving, if nothing else, can go for a basic rebuild kit and some machine work to get it done right, if the kid f00ked it up.

Could also buy you Vtec, in the form of a GSR head, or even a B16 head, if that's what you want.

if i get a b20/vtec can i use the PR3 ecu?

Yep. You SHOULD get a chipped ECU, since you'll be running more compression and more displacement, but if you're not racing the shit out of it, the PR3, along with sensors, will be able to trim fuel to make things work.

I wouldn't really beat on it until you get something that's tuneable tho... i.e. chipping the PR4 you have now.

i'm doubtful about the B20/vtec...but i came across this today:
I have a 92 honda civic vx it has been torn apart i was going to redo the whole thing but dont have the time money or motivation to finish it. The shell is in great condition all the body work has been done just needs paint. Body is now perfect. It has a custom 6 point roll cage. Will sell the shell or everything you need to put it back together and get it on the rode. Asking $2000 for bare shell. Or $6000 for everything.
i have:
JDM b16 SIR II
JDM y21 b16 trans with lsd
full msd setup
ground control coil-overs and pillow mounts with koni adjustables
custom 3 point front strut bar
em racing z bar in the rear
too much more to list please call for info.


$1000 for the swap and its complete ready to drop in with a skunk 2 intake manifold runs very strong no problems at all. I will gurantee it.


May be meeting a guy that has a B16 complete swap for sale for $800…still in his car so I’m going to see how it runs

That's the best bet... see how it runs, listen to it, even drive it if you can, before you pay an outrageous amount of money for it.

well i'm about to head to Maryland to get an engine...will the same scenario work with a B16b...using my distributor and PR3 ecu?

If you get a b16b.. never ever tell anyone locally. You wont own it long.

Also how in the hell would you get one for less than like 3k? I think your talking about something else.

well...it didn't come with the transmission...i was going to sell it anyway b/c i'm not converting to hydraulic...just got back from Maryland and it's still ing the Cruiser...here's a teaser
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/347/dsc02017me4.jpg

Did he give it to you for less since there was no tranny? The CTR tranny is a very valuable piece... just like the engine is.

Did he give it to you for less since there was no tranny? The CTR tranny is a very valuable piece... just like the engine is.

no...same price...wife wan't too happy...thought she was going to cuss him out:p but she trusted my judgement...i told her it was still a good deal

B16B
Skunk2 intake manifold
DC Sports 4-2-1 (would be nice to have a 4-1)
starter
distributor
clutch/flywheel
$1500

yeah, $1500 was the low end for just the motor... at least from what I've seen.

Like I said before, 3-5k for the motor and tranny, no aftermarket parts.

The intake and header you can't really take at retail value, as aftermarket parts lose 50% of their retail value the second they're installed.

That said, you got a complete B16B for $1500. It's a great deal, although maybe not the most cost effective, but you won't see me raggin on you for it.

i was skeptical about getting it...i always get nervous when spends more than a couple hundred $$$ on my car :dunno: but i felt it was a good deal...but swapping it in is going to be different than a B16a i'm finding out...i've read that going obd1 is a lot easier than trying to make it obd0

I can't say for sure, I've never put my hands on a B16B... but going OBD-0 should be just as easy as with any other motor... dizzy and ECU, swap the injectors if it's OBD-2 engine. You won't use some of the sensors, and you may have to change some of the plugs on your harness to fit diff sensors.

You might also have to re-use some of the sensors on your B18, if the B16B is OBD-2 (I have no idea if it is or not.)

Oh... and I get nervous for less than a couple hundred dollars.. I don't like spending more than like... $100 at a time.

yeah it's an OBD-2 engine...and i must say, this is the most i've ever spent on a car...$3300...$900 more than what i paid for the car

as long as you think it's worth it, no one else can argue the point.

We can all debate all day whether we'd have spent that money on that engine or half of it on another one, or whatever... some will even say its pointless to spend that much on a car that you'll never get that money back out of.

The point is. If it's worth it to YOU, then it's worth it. Period.

well worth it to have a nice 18yr old car that drives and handles nice and still looks good :)

although now FrodoGT has me nervous about my engine getting stolen...one person local knows it's a B16B, everyone else knows it's B16a...i know these get stolen still, but not as much...think i'm going to throw some flames and racing stripes on the car to blend in with the locals

Lol... probably the number one reason I wouldn't buy an engine like that, and the number 1 reason I prefer to keep things looking mostly stock.

If your not looking to modify the engien then you got a smoking deal. If your were the type of person to change the pistons, rods, and cams..then you just modded a b16 with a port and polish. Nice purchase, but just watch out, the b16b is higher compression than both the b18 and the b16..and will run leaner, especially with the higher flow in the head. I wouldn't like using a stock ecu on that baby. If you can, switch to obd1 (is just as easy as going back to obd0, prolly easier) and get a tuner to tune the thing..you'll sleep better at night.

Put it this way, my y8..with .4 higher cr, on a stock z6 map ran so lean that my wideband o2 sensor couldn't even detect how lean it was on the gauge at idle. Under load it would show up, but was still on the high end of the spectrum, and that was only while accelerating. While cruising once again it went so lean that it baffled everyone that saw it at how lean it would actually run at. Needless to say I only ran it like that for mere minutes. It made me sick thinking that I had driven it like that for almost 2 months.

Also I just remembered. The b16b has a rev limit of 8400 rpm! The ls..6800. Can you see where im going with this? Youll probably make less power than you ever did before because your not rich enough, and because the only power difference between the b16b and b16a is made above 7k rpm.

ordered my jumper harness and picking up a chipped P28 tomorrow...i know it needs to be wired for vtec, and the distributor...anything else?

Use the OBD-1 injectors from the B18
Use dizzy from the B18
Install jumper harness and ECU
Do Vtec wiring
Start engine
Drive
Pull over 30 mins later, check ECU codes (if any)
Drive
Come home, check ECU codes again (if any)
Begin the lifetime of tuning you'll need. :D

Have a nice day with your B16B!

Just messin wit ya.. the first three things are accurate. Injectors, dizzy, ECU. There's your OBD-1.

Again, you might need to change some sensors or use the ends from an OBD-2 harness that will fit certain ones.

Not likely, all youll need is the ait sensor, the tps sensor, and the various coolant temp sensors/switches, all of which use the same plugs.

regarding the distributor...can't i just use this http://rywire.com/store/obd0-obd2b-dseries-distributor-adapter-p-34.html?osCsid=91dbba24aba12c4fe123d2a331a305cb

and will i need a 4-wire o2 sensor?

Yes and yes.

got my chipped p28 and ecu jumper harness today...ordered the Rywire obd-o to obd-2 distributor harness and going to get the 4-wire o2 sensor...i hope that's it

What basemap did they put on the p28? Do you plan on a tune? Before you go and get a 4 wire o2 I suggest just buying a wideband. One with 5v and 1v outputs (most of them) and use that as your narrowband so that you can monitor your AFR at all times. After that, welcome to being fully tunable bud! Next steps are an ostrich and hulog...then your ready for boost :P

If your ok with a soldering iron i have been looking at this as a low cost wideband www.14point7.com But the innovate lc1 is good too, or a plx. My aem came with the gauge but only has one output so I still run my narrowband.

all of that is foreign to me for the moment :(

but good news...4 wire o2 sensor is still attached :)
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/640/dsc02036gz7.jpg
he put a B16b basemap one it...VTEC engages @4800 RPM and rev limit @8500RPM and disabled the speed limiter

he called to see what basemap i wanted but could reach me, it isn't like i could tell him anyway...i just set foot into the world of Vtec and tuning

Umm.. afaik there is no b16b basemap. its like the y8, obd2 and therefore runs on an entirely different system.

:dunno:

well, started yesterday evening, in the rain...should finish today hopefully as long as my distributor harness comes in
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/6288/dsc02055ip7.jpg
http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/281/dsc02056jt4.jpg

no distributor harness...darn you Rywire:banghead: but the only thing that's left is wiring...and trying to use the OBD-2 injectors :redface:

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/2258/dsc02057cw8.jpg
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/5757/dsc02058vc5.jpg
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/6274/dsc02059gj8.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/5344/dsc02061wu6.jpg
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/9978/dsc02064jl3.jpg

Damn... that looks so clean w/ the red valve cover in your bay... You gonna re-do the logo on the top of the timing cover?

probably

Pry have to do it in black then, right? I dunno dude, I hope everything goes great for you and nothing happens to your ride, but you accepted a huge risk when you put that motor in your bay.. There are alot of fuckers out there that would wrong a Honda just to turn a buck, and fuck the guy that put his life into building it up...

Good Luck.. Looks great.

i was pretty much a spectator during the whole process...i just watched, tried to help, and just held the flashlight...cost me $20 and McDonald's food to get the swap done

about 2-3 people in the area know what my actual engine is and this is the only site where i have it posted...since everyone knew i was getting a B16...i posted this
http://www.carolinahondas.com/showpost.php?p=699694&postcount=15

LMAO. Good Job. Now you're at least a lil safer.. don't show off your engine too much though, someone will notice what you've got, even though it's quite possible to paint a valve cover or stick a new (CTR) one on... they'll still see.

I"m thinking about building one more D-series engine... since I'm getting rid of the ZC, I'm thinking about building a SOHC Vtec... CRX HF (D15B8) block w/ D16 crank (you can make it work with machining) and Z6 head... with a combo like that, and the resultant compression from any piston/rod combo I've looked at, it's a good thing D-series parts are cheap, this thing might blow up a couple times. Another reason I still haven't been really working on going B-series lol.

BTW, if you paid for it and you were there to learn something from the install, you can still say you did it.

yeah, everyone that's helped me has been real cool...posting threads for me to ask questions so i won't draw any attention...but now i need to find OBD-2 injector clips, knock sensor, and a couple other things

Are you using the stock ECU or the OBD-1 P28 you had?

If you're using and OBD-1 ECU, don't worry about using the OBD-2 injectors... you can steal the OBD-1 injectors from the B18 you pulled and insert them.

That will get you running for less money... and since you've already spent a hefty sum on the motor and suspension, I'm sure you'd like to find something "free" lol.