91 Metro 3 cyl with poor compression.

Hello, I am considering installing new rings and bearings in a 91 3cyl metro along with some valve work. It has either 160k or 260k miles on it... When I bought it in February the guy had already done the head gasket and timing belt. He also replaced an exhaust valve stem. My problem is #3 cylinder is burning a lot of oil. It can foul out a plug in less than 1500 miles. The engine has become somewhat weaker since then especially going up hill or any incline. Thats not good when you line in the NC footHILLS. Cylinder 1 tested around 155psi. Cylinder 2 tested very poorl at 124psi but shows no sign of burning oil. Cylinder 3 tested around 150. My compression guage is one of those you have to hold in place and the misses would not be patient enough to turn it over for wet testing so I'll have try it later. With those numbers can anyone tell me if it's worth bothering with. I have read Dr Bills big project to get some idea at what I'm looking at and have the tools on hand. If I do it would it be best to remove the engine or leave the block in?

I just did rings and valves on my daughter's 150,000 mile Metro yesterday. Took pretty much all day. Total cost of parts and labor (mine) was under $150. No machine shop work necessary. Easy to do with the engine in the car.

Q

It's not a bad job and it's actually easier to do the job "in car" rather than yanking the engine.

Will I have to take the crankshaft out and take it to the machine shop? I know I should do the main bearings as well but is it necessary? Can I get away with just doing the rings and rod bearings? Money is an issue in my situation. I want to be sure I have everything I need as far as tools and gaskets/seals before I begin. I have everything but a ridge reamer which I can rent if needed.

No, the crank does not need to come out. After the head is off, drop the oil pan, drop the rod bearing caps, and push the pistons out the top. No need to mess with the main bearings and rod bearings should be re-useable.

Yup.....sounds good. It is rather fun to do. Gitt 'er done!

Just be sure you have everything in a line when you start....no fun having to
try to find some part you forgot to get ready.

If you are going to have the Head rebuilt, it may take a week waiting for the
Head Shop to finish.

Are you buying new Head Bolts? Supposed to be a good idea.

Having the Head rebuilt is probably a good idea...get them valves in shape.

Then, when you are done, the little '91 should go another 150,000 with no worries!

Unless someone crashes into you and zaps it.

Mine is running sweet at about 20,000 miles on the rebuild and getting an
average of 48 mpg in summer.

All kinds of POWER !

DoctorBill

Thanks guys, I have people telling me I have to do things that I don't see as being absolutely necessary. I wanted to just do the rings and rod bearings (maybe). I also wanted to do new valve seals and exhaust stems if necessary as I hear they wear fast. As much as I would like to do a full rebuild it's just not practical money wise at this time. If I see that the rod bearings are worn more than expected I will do the mains but my main goal is to restore compression. I will also be using new head bolts Dr. Bill. The guy that did the head gasket before I bought it reused the old ones.

If you know how to rebuild the Head yourself - God Bless you!

I wouldn't try such a thing myself...probably has special tools required and springs
flying about at high speed....!

Sounds like you could pop in new exhaust valves...why not do that then?

I know about costs....I'm retired and working part time, so I did this rebuild myself
as far as I comfortably could.

Replacing the Head Bolts sounded like a good idea to me - if one broke off,
you would be S.O.L.

Good luck to you.

Consider taking and posting photos of your job - for posterior!

DoctorBill

I have a trade diploma in Automobile Mechanics from my late teens but I never pursued it. I just don't have much hands on experience. Honestly the head work seems to be easier than the rest to me as I have some experience in that area. I just plan on doing the valve seals and stems if required. I've never done rings on anything other that a 12HP Briggs and Stratton. I have my CD manual that I actually got from the place you (Dr. Bill) recommended in one of your posts that shows the ring gap positions and bearing info etc. I will be using your project as a reference as well which I know will be a big help. When I get started I will be sure to post photo's. It will probably be a few more weeks before I get started on it.

I know you found DOCTORBILL's thread, but I posted a guide when I did my top end...............
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=901427

I did not replace the head bolts and was sightly concerned, but it's been almost 20K since the rebuild with no issues whatsoever.

Thanks I will definitely check that out. Here is a link to a gasket and bolt set on ebay at a good price which I am seriously considering.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-95-1-0L-Geo-Metro-G10-SOHC-6V-Head-Gasket-Bolt-Set_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c 65Q3a15Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQha shZitem280272878786QQitemZ280272878786

I have seen much nicer gasket sets elsewhere. Should this be a concern or is this a good deal?

I'm also considering this ring set. Should I buy a specific brand or preference?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=360048593194&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=023

i saw something in this thread also about a crankshaft rebuit i got mine at advance auto for a 4 cyc. main bearing , rod bearing and crankshaft 175 and wished i would of did the rings