Ignition coil replacement?

Hi-
I have a 1996 windstar 3.8L. engine is running rough and have popped multiple cylinder misfire codes. Changed plugs, wires, fuel filter. Checked primary resistance of coil and found it to be within Haynes manual specs (1.0 ohms). Secondary coil resistance was found to be 13,800 ohms, 14,000 ohms, and 14,100 ohms for the three sets of coils on the ignition coil. Haynes manual spec are between 6500-11,500 ohms. Are my readings significantly out of spec to cause the problem? Just trying to avoid throwing money at the problem since I have noticed many posts have changed wires plugs and coils without success. I also have had much trouble with DPFE sensor in past and after 3 aftermarket tries bought ford sensor and eliminated problem.

One other thing, one of my catalytic converters is rattling. could this be plugging and causing misfire problems? Just received the new converter and am getting ready to install this but would like to clear engine problem before installation assuming converter isn't giving the engine problems.

I would try some Berryman's B-12 Chemtool...in the metal can.
My '96 needs a can every 3 months or so.
This will clean up the fuel injectors......which are prone to build up some deposits over the spray end.
I chased and chased the same problem....and ended up just needing the Berryman's (I had tried a LOT of other brands without success).

Which brand catalytic converter did you get?

My Walker aftermarket needed me to get bolts and nuts for the connection to the flex pipe.
Remember to support the flex pipe when you disconnect it.....if you leave it dangle.....it may break.

I would check to see if the rattle is a loose heat shield (can be corrected with 2 big oversize hose clamp type straps....which can be bought at the local plumbing department of you hardware/ big box home store).
Mine ended up being the insides of the converter.

Wiswin-

Thanks. Picked up some Berryman's today. P0300 codes is the one coming up. Interestingly, the autozone guy that read my codes today said he would not reset my codes. He said, that they will no longer reset codes as they have had problems that when they have reset codes it scrambles the firing order information in the car's computer resulting in a rough running car and hesitation. He said it costs $1500 to have the ford dealer reprogram the computer which is why they won't reset it.

Have you heard of this? In the past I and am sure others have had the codes reset. How could one identify a wacked out computer in their car?

Also, he hit me pretty hard to buy multi tipped platinum plugs. Said the older style, which I just put in, don't cut it and that windstars are very sensitive to plug type (old style versus platinum). I find that pretty hard to believe and that old versus platinum would manifest itself in multiple cylinder misfire.


I noticed on the cat I bought I will need to get the bolts for the flexpipe connection. Thanks for the tip on the flexpipe. Will definitely support it.

On another note I just changed struts with monroe quick struts on the windstar (less than 40 miles on it) and noticed today that when I turn the wheel there is a squeak coming from the upper part of the new strut like rubbing your hand slowly over a balloon. Any thoughts on this? I am thinking I may have over torqued the upper strut mounting bolts. Otherwise, they seem fine.

Thanks.

Jim

Auto part stores push the multi prong Bosch spark plugs (the +4 and +2 ones).
There have been posts about these not working well in the windstar....which uses a positive spark on 1 side....and a negative spark on the other.
So these bosch plugs may be good for some applications.....but NOT the windstar.
The windstar calls for a double platinumn spark plug.....not 2 "ground prongs......but platinumn on BOTH the ground prong and the center electrode.
The only 2 brand names out there that I know of that carry this are Autolite and Motorcraft.
They will say "double platinumn".
This is what our windstars do the best on.

As far as the squeak......I am not good at tracking this down.
One common cause of squeak when you turn the wheels is lack of lubrication in the tie rod ends.
The only way to get lubrication in there is to get a grease needle that connects to your grease gun (auto part stores have this in the grease section)....and poke it into the boot over the tie rod end joint....and pump a SMALL amount of grease in.
A dab will do you.....don't make that boot into a balloon.

The CEL will stay lit AFTER you have solved the problem......it will take a certain number of problem free cycles to clear on its own.
It sounds like the AutoZone you went to......or another one....got burned with a "you screwed up my car" accusation.
A reset with an OBDII scanner should not cause the PCM to loose its program.....but better to play it safe and not open the store up to liability.

Jim

Welcome to AFs! The squeak sounds like the strut bearing. I had a squeak when I replaced my struts too.

Regards

Dan

that strut sounds like upper bearing plate on it if you turn corners when it does it?