Few problems with my Saturn.

Alright. I will start by saying that I know absolutely nothing about Saturns. I learned everything I know about cars, by working on cars. This is the first Saturn I have ever owned. Now.

Lately I have been looking for a cheap little front wheel drive to keep the miles off of my Vette, and to drive in the rain and snow. I stumbled apon this little Saturn Sc1 sitting in a guys driveway with a sign of 750$ for sale. This seems like a great deal to me, as the car fires right up, doesn't really smoke, and looks good. So I am driving this car around and I notice that it is Really slow, but it does drive and shift ok (it's the 5-speed) The car looks good and does get decent gas milage, exactly what I was looking for, this car is a winner.

I then take it home to my shop and start further inspecting it. I notice a small ticking noise comming from the top of the engine, I am assuming this is the valves, I will probably be getting a valve job done on it when time permits. I also notice a ticking niose comming from the front of the engine, I assume this is a timing chain, but not sure. The car has a Massive exhaust leak comming from the exhaust manifold, causing the car to run horribly. And finally, the car overheats easilly in traffic.

So, to start with the overheating, I check the coolant level, thermostat, waterpump. All seem to work fine. Then I check the fans, I hook the fans up to direct power, and they work just fine. So, temporarilly I hook the fans to a toggle switch mounted inside the car, which I flip on whenever I have to stop in traffic, a temporary fix easilly reversable and seems to work. The fans did come on every once in a while, they were acting wierd.

So, to start, any idea why the car is extremely slow? Anything on the Saturns give them problems with excelleration? Is there a permenant fix for the overheating? And finally, any input on the ticking noises?


Thanks,

'94 Sl1
You have a SOHC Car. Dont expect a rocket ship by any means. You also have a TBI intake so you looking at around 85hp at the CRANK. :) However if running right and tire pressure is good, expect around 35 mpg EASYY. Im getting 38mpg in the '02 :)

Ticking noise: Possible the timing chain. Keep up on the oil changes (every 3K) and keep the oil full. Saturns love to burn oil. check it once a week at least untill you know the oil per miles ratio. Lack of changing the oil or letting it get low is why saturns dont live. If taken care of, your saturn can last to around 500K miles...on mostly stock parts.

A valve job is a big job. Hardest part is getting the timing chain off. Honestly...its easier to get a new engine and put it in then do a valve job. Cheaper also :)

Over heating:
In the 1st gen s-series the temp guage is calibrated VERYY differently from the cars now. Normal operating temps for your car is 1/2 as per the guage. Fan should not turn on untill 1mm before the red. Odd? Yes. very. they redisnged the gauge in '96.

Tune-up:
Do a full tune up on the car. NGK Copper plugs ONLY. Simple is better with the s-series. Also replace the ECTS. You have two, you need to replace the one with the 2 wire connecter located under the EGR. 13mm Deep dish socket is all thats needed. You'll prolly find that the sensor is cracked. new ones are brass (14 bucks at the dealer). Sensor is used for MANY sub systems of the car. Vital to engine management!

Happpy saturn driving!

'94 Sl1
You have a SOHC Car. Dont expect a rocket ship by any means. You also have a TBI intake so you looking at around 85hp at the CRANK. :) However if running right and tire pressure is good, expect around 35 mpg EASYY. Im getting 38mpg in the '02 :)

Ticking noise: Possible the timing chain. Keep up on the oil changes (every 3K) and keep the oil full. Saturns love to burn oil. check it once a week at least untill you know the oil per miles ratio. Lack of changing the oil or letting it get low is why saturns dont live. If taken care of, your saturn can last to around 500K miles...on mostly stock parts.

A valve job is a big job. Hardest part is getting the timing chain off. Honestly...its easier to get a new engine and put it in then do a valve job. Cheaper also :)

Over heating:
In the 1st gen s-series the temp guage is calibrated VERYY differently from the cars now. Normal operating temps for your car is 1/2 as per the guage. Fan should not turn on untill 1mm before the red. Odd? Yes. very. they redisnged the gauge in '96.

Tune-up:
Do a full tune up on the car. NGK Copper plugs ONLY. Simple is better with the s-series. Also replace the ECTS. You have two, you need to replace the one with the 2 wire connecter located under the EGR. 13mm Deep dish socket is all thats needed. You'll prolly find that the sensor is cracked. new ones are brass (14 bucks at the dealer). Sensor is used for MANY sub systems of the car. Vital to engine management!

Happpy saturn driving!

Hey thanks a Ton for that info. I do not expect a rocket. I didn't buy this car to be a rocket, I have a 2002 Z06 Corvette if I feel like going fast. But this car is un-normally slow. Today on the highway, I was passed by an early 90's honda civic, it sounded like it was missing, and it was pulling a speed boat. We took off from the stop light, and the guy pulled away easilly, then somebody passed on the right and flipped my off because I was going really slow and he couldn't get around me. I have to hit third if I want any chance of pulling a hill. The service engine soon light is on, and for some odd reason, this car redlines when the tach is only reading 4000 ish RPM's, when the gauge redline is much higher. I really like the car, I just don't like getting flipped off for going too slow, and I don't like having to floor it from a take off to prevent stalling. Any ideas on my problems here?

Two things come to mind, check the compression. Your engine may be near death. Second you may have a clogged exhaust system. Remove the O2 sensor from the manifold and see if that helps. Possible clogged cat. Also jack up the car. Do the wheels spin easily. Check engine light. You can read the codes with a paperclip. What is your car telling you? The answer may be there.

Steve

Two things come to mind, check the compression. Your engine may be near death. Second you may have a clogged exhaust system. Remove the O2 sensor from the manifold and see if that helps. Possible clogged cat. Also jack up the car. Do the wheels spin easily. Check engine light. You can read the codes with a paperclip. What is your car telling you? The answer may be there.

Steve

Well you can rule 1 of those out. I do not have a clogged cat, in fact I don't have a cat at all =P And in fact, I pretty much don't have an exhaust other than the manifold, the manifold and pipe are disconnected, which I am sure isn't helping the performance. I don't believe this engine is near death. 137k Miles and it runs too damn strong. I will check the 02 sensor. The..rear wheels spin easilly...I havn't had in in the air and out of gear, I could check that. I can read the codes with a paperclip. Now I am a junkyard mechanic and all, but even I have not heard of this. Could you please elaborate?

Oh one more thing. The service engine soon light I don't this is a huge deal, as the light comes on every once in a while, and goes off. Meaning (if the saturn is like every other car I own) That this is a soft code, and not too terribly serious.

GET THE SES CODE. This is VITAL. That code can tell you exactly what is wrong.

Car is front wheel drive. However IIRC you have drum brakes, so be sure they are adjusted correctly.

Full tune up is needed. Top to bottom. This will eliminate any variables and help narrow down the issue if at all.

A compression check is a great idea. Do a dry and wet(if needed) test. Post your results.

GET THE SES CODE. This is VITAL. That code can tell you exactly what is wrong.

Car is front wheel drive. However IIRC you have drum brakes, so be sure they are adjusted correctly.

Full tune up is needed. Top to bottom. This will eliminate any variables and help narrow down the issue if at all.

A compression check is a great idea. Do a dry and wet(if needed) test. Post your results.

Brakes have been recently rebuilt, and are adjusted fine.

I have done basic tune up, plugs wires oil fuil filter air filter blah blah. Will do compression test.

Alright so I did a few things to the car this weekend.

Slick 50
Fuel system cleaner as well as manually cleaned the throttle body
Replaces temp sending unit
Fixed exhaust leaks

The car seems to be running a bit better, as well as sounds a ton better. Check engine light hasn't come on since, and fans turn them selves on. Still having a problem with pep, but I can deal with that as long as I know the car is sound. Thanks for all your help thus far.

Hmmm...unfortunetly i think this is where we cant help you anymore. With out me actually driving the car i cant tell you if its alright or not. But with only 85 hp with a throttle body injection fuel system and SOHC engine...i think thats all your going to get outa her

Hmmm...unfortunetly i think this is where we cant help you anymore. With out me actually driving the car i cant tell you if its alright or not. But with only 85 hp with a throttle body injection fuel system and SOHC engine...i think thats all your going to get outa her

Now I do know 85 Hp is low, I also know Gm under rates their hp quite a bit, But lets say this car was at exactly 85 hp, This car is Extremely light weight. It should move pretty quickly. I had an 88 mustang 2.3 with around the same hp, and far more weight, and it would flat smoke this car. I can tell something is not right with this one. I am guessing that replacing the temp sender would cause it to slowly send messages to the computer and over time it would start running better, and not notice an instant change. Am I right here?

Its plausable. the PCM will re calibrate the fuel tables right away, but other systems of the car would have to wait for the next driving cycle to occur. Possibly removing the battery cable for a minute and re-attaching it will help. this makes the PCM start from defualt tables and relearn the car. Maybe this will help?

Compression....see what the compression is dry and wet. 180 PSI is for a nice smooth running engine.

Alright man fucking sweet. Gunna find these problems out the hard way. Car quit on me right after work today, I think the timming chain slipped. Do I need to pull the engine in order to change this? Either way I will pull the timing chain and gears, replace those, pull the head while the timing is off, get a valve job, then while the block is exposed I will attempt to put new rings in it. This Should fix everything, I hope.

Language please.

Timing chain cant slip. It supposedly can jump a notch but ive heard it makes a racket when it does bc that means the tensioner broke and is rattling around in the cover.

Do a compression check for verification.

If the timing chain did break/jump a notch, the enigne is an interference engine, so its possible your valves are broke or bent.

Chain can be replaced in the car, however its very hard as theres little room to get to the pulley and bolts needed. easier to pull the engine. and even easier to just get another engine all together. id get another engine before id re-do a timing chain given the choice.

Language please.

Timing chain cant slip. It supposedly can jump a notch but ive heard it makes a racket when it does bc that means the tensioner broke and is rattling around in the cover.

Do a compression check for verification.

If the timing chain did break/jump a notch, the enigne is an interference engine, so its possible your valves are broke or bent.

Chain can be replaced in the car, however its very hard as theres little room to get to the pulley and bolts needed. easier to pull the engine. and even easier to just get another engine all together. id get another engine before id re-do a timing chain given the choice.

The timing chain has been making a loud noise for quite a while. It feels like the timing chain jumped about 1 notch, which if this engine is built like any other engine ever, the valves Should be unharmed. The chain has to jump a certain amount in order for it to disalign enough for the valves to open at the same time that the pistons go up. After sitting for a second the car did attempt to fire once, which tells me the chain is not broken.