Who can solve this???

OK so hello everyone, my first post. After a TON of research and talking to tons of people about my issue, no one can tell me exactly what is going on.

I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy. I live in a place called Chesterfield Inlet, Nunavut and there are no dealers or mechanics in town. I had to ship this truck up on a barge becuase there are no roads coming in or out of town. To Make matters worse, I got this truck for my girlfriends mother who is 70 and she cant even use it. We put only 120 KM on the thing before it went like this.

My situation:

One day I went to start my truck and it wouldn't crank. All lights come on the dash fine it just wouldnt crank. The next day I try and it is perfect. A few hours later I wanna go to the store and once again, it won't crank.

It is to the point now where it has not cranked in 3 weeks.

I replaced the starter but that didn't do anything. When I do the screwdriver trick on the starter, the truck turns over but won't even fire now. AT least before when I managed to get the truck to crank, it would fire up and run perfectly.

I replaced the neutral switch but this was not the problem either.

I tried turning the key to the on position for 30 minutes to reset the chip or whatever but this didn't work either.

I was told that if it was a passlock II issue the truck would crank it just wouldn't start...is this true?

If someone can help me solve my problem I would be forever grateful and would gladly make a donation to this site.

PLEASE HELP!

Any aftermarket alarms or keyless entry? You could have a bum starter interrupt from a bad installation job if so..

Other than that, it could be ignition switch- I always test this by putting 12v to yellow wire in steering column- afte I confirm it is dead when ignition is turned to "start." When starter cranks- then, the ignition switch is bad.

With PasslockII it has been my experience that truck will crank start, then stall within 2 seconds, and the security light will flash. Is your security light flashing?

Any aftermarket alarms or keyless entry? You could have a bum starter interrupt from a bad installation job if so..

Other than that, it could be ignition switch- I always test this by putting 12v to yellow wire in steering column- afte I confirm it is dead when ignition is turned to "start." When starter cranks- then, the ignition switch is bad.

With PasslockII it has been my experience that truck will crank start, then stall within 2 seconds, and the security light will flash. Is your security light flashing?

No aftermarket alarms but it does have keyless entry.

When I use a screwdriver to bypass, the engine will turn over but it won't start. Before when turning the key, the engine would always start and fire right up, running perfectly.

How do I test the ignition switch exactly? DO I cut a wire? WHat shoudl I be looking for here exactly?

Any other ideas guys?

ttt

jumping the starter will not start truck if ignition has no signal from switch. check grounds and load test battery. try to start in park and neutral. contacts may be warn out in key switch. I don't have my manual here but the wires should be pink power feed yellow is igntion feed and there should be ground and accesseryand starter exciter . get to wires turn key on check 12v pink &12v yelloww/key on. if no ar low at pink check relays and fuse. if 12v red no or low v at yellow jump power from pink to yellow then jump starter with screw driver. my money is on bad ground at battery or alternator. or bad switch contacts chavy ignition switches suck.

OK so if I do have a bad ground what should I look for? Am I looking for a wire that is touching another wire?

OK so if I do have a bad ground what should I look for? Am I looking for a wire that is touching another wire?
u should use an ohm meter to check continuity. if not that advanced sometimes just loosening ground connections and scrapeing off mating surfaces. Rust builds between mateing surfaces increaseing resistance, lowering voltage to power wires.

before any thing disconnect the positave terminal on the bettery for 5-10 minutes after you reconnect it if it starts the anti-theft module is bad nothing that will hinder the preformance of the truck its just annoying and allways have a 5/16th wrench in the truck at all times you'll get the idea why

UPDATE!

Ok so I bought a new ignition switch and was about to put it in when I noticed some black wires that were spliced in to the other wires. One was spliced in the yellow, one in the pink and one in the pink with white stripe.

For fun I hooked up the new ignition switch without connecting those black wires and the truck actually turned over!!!

HOWEVER, it would not fire up. When I hooked those black wires back in, the same thing happened, it wouldnt even crank.

There is a little black box close to the parking brake that says : this device complies with the fcc..."

What is this black box?

From this new information can anyone tell me what is going on.

Also, while towing the truck the other day I had to get a boost to put the truck in neutral. WHen I was hooked up to another truck I turned the key and it started! I went for a ride and it worked perfect!

30 minutes later it was back to 'normal' and not even cranking. Gotta be the wiring right...I knocked something loose when I was towing.

Anyone?

UPDATE!

Ok so I bought a new ignition switch and was about to put it in when I noticed some black wires that were spliced in to the other wires. One was spliced in the yellow, one in the pink and one in the pink with white stripe.

For fun I hooked up the new ignition switch without connecting those black wires and the truck actually turned over!!!

HOWEVER, it would not fire up. When I hooked those black wires back in, the same thing happened, it wouldnt even crank.

There is a little black box close to the parking brake that says : this device complies with the fcc..."

What is this black box?

From this new information can anyone tell me what is going on.

Also, while towing the truck the other day I had to get a boost to put the truck in neutral. WHen I was hooked up to another truck I turned the key and it started! I went for a ride and it worked perfect!

30 minutes later it was back to 'normal' and not even cranking. Gotta be the wiring right...I knocked something loose when I was towing.

Anyone?

that device sounds like a remote starter brain box might have to get a person that does electrical to look at it. but check the wire coming from the alternator my 96 blazer did that and it was a broken wire that stoped it from cranking:eek7:

Looks like an aftermarket remote start/alarm.

Are you sure you just don't need a battery?

Looks like an aftermarket remote start/alarm.

Are you sure you just don't need a battery?

I just put a brand new battery in.

Like I said, when those black wires are disconnected, the truck will crank over but not fire. When they are connected, the truck wont even crank over.

Before I changed the ignition switch every once in awhile the truck would crank AND fire, it seemed like when I jiggled a wire loose or something.

Is there anyway to UNINSTALL this item and put things back the way they are supposed to be>??????

Also, while towing the truck the other day I had to get a boost to put the truck in neutral. WHen I was hooked up to another truck I turned the key and it started! I went for a ride and it worked perfect!
Anyone?
Are you sure you have not worn the battery down so that it no longer has enough left in it to crank and get the engine management up and running at the same time. If you jumped it and it started I would try the jump start again to see if it was just a fluke or if it will actually start with the jump again. If it starts with a jump I would seriously consider the battery.

either that or its the fact that you started it in nuetral. You did something different when you jumped it and it started. Figure out what the difference was and your problem will be figured out!

Are you sure you have not worn the battery down so that it no longer has enough left in it to crank and get the engine management up and running at the same time. If you jumped it and it started I would try the jump start again to see if it was just a fluke or if it will actually start with the jump again. If it starts with a jump I would seriously consider the battery.

either that or its the fact that you started it in nuetral. You did something different when you jumped it and it started. Figure out what the difference was and your problem will be figured out!

Tried all that. Trust me I tried it with a boost again and nothing. Like I said above I just bought a brand new battery but it didnt fix anything.

I have a feeling the problem lies with those black wires. When unhooked the engine will crank but not fire. When hooked up it wont even crank.

Is there anyway for me to keep those black wires UNHOOKED but to get the fuel pump to engage? Right now it seems that there is no signal being sent to the fuel pump or even to send spark...

I bet you if I hooked those black wires back in, jiggled all the wires or towed the truck around fofr a bit it would fire becuase something was either knocked loose or put back in place.

Black wires spliced into yellow, pink and pink/white. What the heck are they?

?!?!?!?!?

http://www.lewishillbillies.com/gallery/d/102550-2/Photo+38.jpg

Does anyone know what exactly this is? Also some more of those black wires are going into an even bigger black box of some kind...

Looks like an aftermarket remote starter module to me. They always have 2 modules. That says something about FCC, yes?

Pink supplies power to ECM 1 fuse among other things. This supplies power to injectors, crank sensor, module etc.

Yellow wire goes to the crank fuse wich goes to the nuetral safety switch.

No pink with white but maybe its red with white which is the power supply to the switch from the ignition b fuse.

There should be power on the pink while cranking and running. There should be power on the yellow when cranking only. There should be power on the red/white all the time

Looks like an aftermarket remote starter module to me. They always have 2 modules. That says something about FCC, yes?

I actually think it is stock now becuase there is a place where it clips on by the parking brake. So I think it is supposed to be there. Maybe for the keyless entry?

FYI The 'security' light flashes until i get in and shut the door.

I am still stumped.

Can someone tell me if those black wires are supposed to be spliced into those ignition wires?

Might help to post a pic of what you are talking about. Nothing should be spliced into those wires!

OK I will take a picture and post it tomorrow. WHen those wires are unhooked it will crank but not fire. When those wires are touching the ones they are spliced into, it wont even crank.

I will see what I can do tomorrow.

That is a factory keyless entry receiver.

I would suggest checking the theft deterrent system wiring as well as the ignition switch.

That is a factory keyless entry receiver.

I would suggest checking the theft deterrent system wiring as well as the ignition switch.

I put a brand new ignition switch in. @When I hook up the new ignition switch the truck will crank but will not run. WHen I splice in those black wires that were spliced into the OLD ignition switch, the truck won't even crank.

Do you guys think that if I hook up the ignition switch properly (without those black wires spliced in) and then install a switch to bypass the passlock II it will run?

Thoughts?

PICTURES!!!

Here are those black wires...you can see at the bottom where that one was spliced into the pink wire.
http://photos-546.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_994290_8602.jpg

One black wire was spliced into the pink, one into the red/white stripe and then the yellow wire was cut and two parts of the black wire went into either end of that.

http://photos-546.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_994289_6703.jpg



The black wire goes back through whatever the heck the smaller wires are:
http://photos-546.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_994291_1423.jpg

It looks like those black wires go into that 'top black box'. Is that passlock II box?

http://photos-546.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_994292_4602.jpg


Are these the wires I work on to try the passlock II bypass switch? WHat wires do I work with?

http://photos-546.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_994293_8275.jpg

PICTURES!!!


http://photos-546.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_994292_4602.jpg




The black box with the orange wires (lower left) is the remote reciever. The black box above it is the one I am wondering about. What do the connectors look like on that? The extra wires and the coiled up wires (small black and white) look like they go to that and that does not look O.E.? If I had to guess I would say that that is a remote start and may be the cause of the problems.

SO if it is a remote start ( I dont even have a remote for it and didn't know it had it), how can I get this truck started?

Also, while towing the truck the other day I had to get a boost to put the truck in neutral. WHen I was hooked up to another truck I turned the key and it started! I went for a ride and it worked perfect!


This may sound really stupid, but ONE of your problems may be a loose battery terminal or corroded wire. If it started while jumpered to the tow truck, it sounds like a battery/cable/connection issue. I know you just replaced the Battery, but check the cables.

Also, connect the wire so that it will at least crank, and turn the key to "ON". Do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds? There should be a shrader valve ( like a Tire Valve) on the fuel manifold, if you push it does fuel squirt out?

This may sound really stupid, but ONE of your problems may be a loose battery terminal or corroded wire. If it started while jumpered to the tow truck, it sounds like a battery/cable/connection issue. I know you just replaced the Battery, but check the cables.

Also, connect the wire so that it will at least crank, and turn the key to "ON". Do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds? There should be a shrader valve ( like a Tire Valve) on the fuel manifold, if you push it does fuel squirt out?

When I turn the key I do not hear the fuel pump prime. The only time it does this is when the truck will actually start for me.

Try the "Passlock" thread on "new posts" it tells how to by-pass the passlock II system. Good luck

When I turn the key I do not hear the fuel pump prime. The only time it does this is when the truck will actually start for me.

It sounds like you have more than one problem going on here. If you do not hear the fuel pump prime, meaning it is not running, that is probably why it will crank but not start. As far as all of those loose wires, it sure looks like someone tried to install after market accessories. Try rigging it up so it will crank and try to verify the fuel pump issue. Again, see if you have fuel squirting out of the manifold shrader valve. Some models had a connector on the driver's fender wall inside the engine compartment that was a direct link to the fuel pump. if you can find it, rig it up to see if your fuel pump is running or not. Some of these alarms and anti-theft devices were tied into the fuel pump circuit as well as the ignition circuit to prevent the truck from starting.

If the pass lock is tripped it will disable the fuel injectors. I don't think we have a passlock issue. That pink wire is what supplies one of or the power(s) for the ICM, VCM, and PCM. If there is no power than there will be no spark, no injector pulse, and theoretically the PCM will not be grounding the fuel pump relay. Solve the issue with the wiring first and I am confident the vehicle will run!

If the pass lock is tripped it will disable the fuel injectors. I don't think we have a passlock issue. That pink wire is what supplies one of or the power(s) for the ICM, VCM, and PCM. If there is no power than there will be no spark, no injector pulse, and theoretically the PCM will not be grounding the fuel pump relay. Solve the issue with the wiring first and I am confident the vehicle will run!

Well I have installed a brand new ignition switch so that cant be it. You think that it is somewhere else that is causing this?

At this point you need to have somebody look at it that knows what they are doing! We are all well aware that you have replaced the ignition switch!!!! I never menioned anything about the ignition switch! You need to fix the wiring from the switch and whatever else has been spliced or tapped into. You will need to do some homework! You will need to use a multimeter to see where power is being lost, you will need to be able to properly repair a wire or wires. If you have not checked into where power is being lost or what does not have power than there is no point in going any further. You have enough information in the previous posts to start figuring out what is going on. If you are unable to do this than its time to seek help from somebody who can actually be there and understands automotive electricity!

Like I mentioned before If that other black box has wiring that doesn't look O.E. (and then I suggest posting some pics of that part) than it probably does not belong there and is likely the source of the problem!!!!!! Fix the wiring problem and the other problem will likely be corrected at the same time.

At this point you need to have somebody look at it that knows what they are doing! We are all well aware that you have replaced the ignition switch!!!! I never menioned anything about the ignition switch! You need to fix the wiring from the switch and whatever else has been spliced or tapped into. You will need to do some homework! You will need to use a multimeter to see where power is being lost, you will need to be able to properly repair a wire or wires. If you have not checked into where power is being lost or what does not have power than there is no point in going any further. You have enough information in the previous posts to start figuring out what is going on. If you are unable to do this than its time to seek help from somebody who can actually be there and understands automotive electricity!

Like I mentioned before If that other black box has wiring that doesn't look O.E. (and then I suggest posting some pics of that part) than it probably does not belong there and is likely the source of the problem!!!!!! Fix the wiring problem and the other problem will likely be corrected at the same time.

Ok, as stated in my very first post I live in Chesterfield Inlet, Nunavut, Canada, population 300. There are no dealers OR mechanics in town to work on this truck. If was as simple as getting someone who knows exactly what they were doing I would have done that day 1! I am not that cheap.

I will try and get the wires tested but I will have to do it myself. That is why i am asking for help from people like you. I know very little about this stuff but what other choice do I have?

Please people, do not get frustrated with me, I am just trying to solve this problem.

Thats fine and I understand your in the middle of no where but you have enough info on what needs to be checked and we need to see the results of what you have checked!

If you have a spliced pink wire with two black woires going to it than something should tell you that those black wires don't belong there! where do those black wires go? where's the other end of the pink wire? have you tried reconnecting the two halves of the pink wire together? When you find the source of the black wires you will find the source of your problem! removing it and putting the pieces back together will be your challenge.

More pictures!

http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_997516_8284.jpg
Those black/white wires, one end are wrapped up in a 'circle' like this.

http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_997519_4360.jpg

The other end goes here?

Both ends are traced here and go into the mysterious black box:

http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_997517_8947.jpg


Both ends are traced here and go into the mysterious black box


http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_997518_4056.jpg

One end of those black wires that were spliced into the ignition switch and that include the black/white wires, go into the back of the black box

http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_997520_772.jpg

The second set of black wires coming out of that black box go up through the firewall on the top left of picture above. Also the ones that were spliced into the ignition switch have a fuse. The right side of the wire is the one coming from the ignition switch and the left side goes to the black box. The fuse is good.

http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_997521_3054.jpg

This is the black box, nothing on it except what you see above.

http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_997519_4360.jpg

Also can someone tell me what that LED is just below rear hatch button? It will sometimes flash red.

Wher does this harness end up. It looks like it goes through the firewall?

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j293/airjer/AF%20Stuff/remote.jpg

the red LED on the dash is an indicator for your aftermarket keyless entry/alarm system that tells you when its armed. Sometime people have wired a toggle switch into an aftermarket alarm system to disable it once inside the vehicle, try and find one under the dash area, anything that doenst look OEM (stock).

another thought, I once worked at a GMC dealer and had to bring a jimmy into the shop people used to have kill switches wired into strange places to prevent there car from being started even if it was broken into. This particular Jimmy had a pressure switch under the carpet you had to push down on the area with your foot and turn the key at the same time. Other people would wire them into the cruise control button or just hide a switch somewhere near the drivers seat or under the dash area.

I myself would be removing that alram system completely and returning all wiring to stock, but I understand this may not be in your skill level.

oh yeah

another option and always my last thought....try to contact whoever you got the vehicle from and ask what teh heck they did and where are the key fob remotes?!?

you could do a title search and find out who owned the vehicle before you also.

http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v363/15/98/511360546/n511360546_997518_4056.jpg

I think this box is called a 555L GM Passlock Interface Module. It is set up to install remote starters. If the vehicle doesn't start when all connections are made, the truck has entered a long tamper mode and I am supposed ot wait 10 minutes...but I've tried this and nothing.

Question: Can I uninstall this thing? ANyone know where the heck I can find the remote start?

I think your looking at the remote starter! If this was a "GM" factory installed item there would proper connections and proper mounting! None of which are present!!!!!!! Besides if the vehicles security system was enabled it would disengage the fuel injectors not the starter. In other words it should crank until the starter fails or the battery goes dead!

I think unwrapping all the black tape around all the wires for this "black box" to see where they go is a fantastic idea!!!!

I think your looking at the remote starter! If this was a "GM" factory installed item there would proper connections and proper mounting! None of which are present!!!!!!! Besides if the vehicles security system was enabled it would disengage the fuel injectors not the starter. In other words it should crank until the starter fails or the battery goes dead!

I think unwrapping all the black tape around all the wires for this "black box" to see where they go is a fantastic idea!!!!

When I unhook the black wires and connect the ignition switch like it is supposed to be the truck will crank but just wont start...like the security is activated.

I will get out and follow the wires to see where they go. I have yet to determine where those wires are going through the firewall.

The wires going through the firewall don't look factory to you?

OK. Answer this... when you get the truck to crank but not start is the "security" light (not your aftermarket LED in the dash bezel) flash? You stated you swapped out the ignition switch right? Well, if you did swap that out and the PK2 light is flashing then you have to relearn the PK2 code. You have to crank it over but leave the ignition on for 11 minutes then do it again. If it doesn't start, do it once more. It may take over 30 minutes but you have to crank it over, not just leave it on.

You should take ALL the aftermarket stuff out especially since you have no fobs to even use it. Just trace the wires. Take the shroud off of the column. You should be able to trace those bypass wires to the PK2 system. The PK2 wires should be tiny 22 gauge wires that are yellow, orange/black, and white with the white one not tapped into.

OK. Answer this... when you get the truck to crank but not start is the "security" light (not your aftermarket LED in the dash bezel) flash? You stated you swapped out the ignition switch right? Well, if you did swap that out and the PK2 light is flashing then you have to relearn the PK2 code. You have to crank it over but leave the ignition on for 11 minutes then do it again. If it doesn't start, do it once more. It may take over 30 minutes but you have to crank it over, not just leave it on.

You should take ALL the aftermarket stuff out especially since you have no fobs to even use it. Just trace the wires. Take the shroud off of the column. You should be able to trace those bypass wires to the PK2 system. The PK2 wires should be tiny 22 gauge wires that are yellow, orange/black, and white with the white one not tapped into.

Just checked the truck. Put the key in, turned it over but NO flashing security light.

I do remember seeing the security light flashing all the time though when the 'old' wires were hooked up. But the truck would not even crank then.

Anyone think that I need a new fuel pump? That's what people here are saying.

Do you have power to the pump?

Do you hear the fuel pump turning on?

Do you have power to the pump?

Do you hear the fuel pump turning on?

No I do not hear the fuel pump turn on. When the truck would start out of nowhere before I could hear the fuel pump click or something.

WHat are the chances that I was having trouble with the remote start wiring and the fuel pump going at the exact same time though?

From page 3
That pink wire is what supplies one of or the power(s) for the ICM, VCM, and PCM. If there is no power than there will be no spark, no injector pulse, and theoretically the PCM will not be grounding the fuel pump relay. Solve the issue with the wiring first and I am confident the vehicle will run!

From page 3

Ya I read that but I dont exactly know how or what to look for with that pink wire. Is it as simple as following it to see where it goes and to see what it is doing?

I would love to solve the issue with the wiring but I really am in over my head with it becuase I do not know what to be looking for.

Do you have power at the ECM 1 fuse with the key on and cranking?

Do you have power at the ECM B fuse at all times?

They grey wire is the power supply for the pump. Do you have power on this wire? it should have power for a couple of seconds when you turn the key on and should have power all the time while cranking.

Do you have power at the ECM 1 fuse with the key on and cranking?

Do you have power at the ECM B fuse at all times?

They grey wire is the power supply for the pump. Do you have power on this wire? it should have power for a couple of seconds when you turn the key on and should have power all the time while cranking.

Are these fuses located where the ignition switch and all the other wiring is? I will go and check the power to these wires now.

Do you have power at the ECM 1 fuse with the key on and cranking?

Do you have power at the ECM B fuse at all times?

They grey wire is the power supply for the pump. Do you have power on this wire? it should have power for a couple of seconds when you turn the key on and should have power all the time while cranking.

I will go and check the power to these wires now.

The fuses are usually in the fuse box? The owners manual will tell you exactly where they are. If you do not have the owners manuel a PDF version can be found on the general motors website. click the owners link at the top of the page and follow the directions.

The fuses are usually in the fuse box? The owners manual will tell you exactly where they are. If you do not have the owners manuel a PDF version can be found on the general motors website. click the owners link at the top of the page and follow the directions.

Ya that was a dumb question. I just remember seeing a big fuse close to the ignition switch and thats why i asked....

I have the truck in a shed right now and the guy who is working on it with me will do the tests on the wires tomorrow. I will post results.

Geez, I just google earthed where you are! What do people do there?

Geez, I just google earthed where you are! What do people do there?

I teach! LOL

We have two stores, two RCMP officers, and truck drivers to deliver water to houses and take sewage away.

This place is not for everyone!

I am still waiting on guy to call me to go work on the truck. He is a busy guy these days and knows more about testing wires than I do so I need to wait for him to help.

Just checked the truck. Put the key in, turned it over but NO flashing security light.

I do remember seeing the security light flashing all the time though when the 'old' wires were hooked up. But the truck would not even crank then.

Anyone think that I need a new fuel pump? That's what people here are saying.
Well, when you turn the ignition on, does the security light come on then go out when you start to crank it over?

Well, when you turn the ignition on, does the security light come on then go out when you start to crank it over?

It goes on briefly when I open the door but then goes out when I shut it.

That's not what I asked. You actually have 2 alarms on there. One for entry and one for ignition. I need to know what it does when you go to crank it over.

That's not what I asked. You actually have 2 alarms on there. One for entry and one for ignition. I need to know what it does when you go to crank it over.

It does not come on. I didn't see it flash or come on when cranking. I will double check again tomorrow.