Front end problems.

took the tires off my 2000 sel to check for nails in tires, tire ok. i then looked at the front end and found this:

1) passenger side tie rod can be rocked by hand side to side,driver side good.

2)stabilizer bar bushings good solid, but bar can be pushed left to right with ease.

3)stabilizer links can be turned left to right with hand, both sides.

4) Rack has a slight leak, will repair soon.

5)so fare so good with everything else.

this is my first ford van, are any of these problems hard to repair myself? i had all GM till i got the van. thanks all

I imagine a rebuilt rack and pinion will be one job. I have used
http://www.cvsource.com/ They did a good job.
Auto Zone,Advanced and O'Riley's rent or loan tools. They will also sell you parts needed. Rack and pinions are harder to work on than you think.
I found parts were as high as a rebuilt.

I imagine a rebuilt rack and pinion will be one job. I have used
http://www.cvsource.com/ They did a good job.
Auto Zone,Advanced and O'Riley's rent or loan tools. They will also sell you parts needed. Rack and pinions are harder to work on than you think.
I found parts were as high as a rebuilt.


thanks, but should i replace the other parts? and how do i go about it, this is my first ford, i am handy with cars but not with fords....i am still learning, thanks

The rebuilt rack and pinion comes with inner tie rods you didn't mention the outer but they don't go bad as frequently but check and replace if bad.
Replace any bad parts you find as you are doing the job. Measure the length of the inner tie rods from the nut to the end of thread and set the same.
You will need a wheel alignment when done. The rebuilder will probably recommend a screen on the power steering pump inlet to catch any broken parts. Follow their guidelines so you don't void the warranty. Ford's aren't that much different as long as they are rack and pinion. Probably at least a days work if you haven't done one before.

the rack is going to be the expensive part. I'd replace the outer tie rod ends along with the sway bar links and bushings. Don't know how many miles are on your van but it may need new lower control arms too. This work is not difficult but care and attention are needed. Then the alignment as others have mentioned.

Piper

the rack is going to be the expensive part. I'd replace the outer tie rod ends along with the sway bar links and bushings. Don't know how many miles are on your van but it may need new lower control arms too. This work is not difficult but care and attention are needed. Then the alignment as others have mentioned.

Piper


thanks piper. the van has 102756 miles and still going strong..............so far.
yes the outer tie rods and the sway bar links.what bushings? on the sway bar links? or on the big sway bar. thanks.

The bushings I'm referring to are the ones that attach around the sway bar to the frame. I don't know if it's our poor, potholey Canadian roads but I've replaced my sway bar bushings twice and my van only has 140,000 km. The job involves dropping the frame about 2 inches, detaching the metal yoke that holds the bushings, removing the bushing and reinstalling. I used my jack and 2 bottle jacks to do the job and it was pretty easy. The parts are inexpensive. My personal feeling is that if you're going to get dirty, might as well do the whole job and know everything is new. The only other thing to consider is the health of your struts/springs and LCAs.

Piper

This is a link to a picture that I took of the front suspension on my '96.....I have labeled things as best I can....using the names that they use in the diagrams and instructions on AlldataDIY...which is in line with the factory manual.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2463787290011220610PMGWiC

If you select the "Previous" picture.....you will see the front view with items labeled.

This is a link to a picture that I took of the front suspension on my '96.....I have labeled things as best I can....using the names that they use in the diagrams and instructions on AlldataDIY...which is in line with the factory manual.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2463787290011220610PMGWiC

If you select the "Previous" picture.....you will see the front view with items labeled.

thanks wiswind, one other question, the parts i described should i be able to move them by hand? or not and if i can move then by hand does that mean they are shot. and do i need a special tools to do the work i listed in the first post. and is there any details i need to pay attention to when i do these repairs, thanks

I am not experienced in how much play is OK....
Your comparing one side to another indicates that you have too much play on one side with the tie rod.

As I STILL rely on my vehicle to haul youth from my church.....I am super picky about safety and reliability of my vehicle....so I have it checked out by a qualified shop that I trust.....once a year.

The pictures of the suspension that I linked.....were taken at about 183K miles.
I had just had the struts replaced with Monroe Quick Struts.....as I had a broken spring.....way up at the top......
I had that lower control arm replaced due to very slight play in the lower ball joint.
The sway bar links were replaced as part of the strut replacement.
The brake calipers were also new.
All these parts were factory original.
Since then, I had the inner and outer tie rod ends replaced.
I am at just over 200K miles now.

I stress the labeling in my picture as they call the "sway bar" to be "stabilizer bar" in AlldataDIY and also in the parts break down on Rock Auto's website.
I find it confusing that different sources (and sometimes the SAME source) call the same part by different names.

Some folks work on vehicles for a living and they have that "feel" for what is normal and what is not.
With front end wear.....by the time I can detect it......it should have been taken care of long ago.

I have not had an issue with the steering rack on this vehicle.
I have flushed the power steering fluid.....your 2000 calls for Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).
This has since been updated to Mercon V as Ford does not "do" Mercon specification anymore.....and Mercon V is the official replacement.
Mobile 1 ATF is easy to find....and is a great product.
As far as a "screen".......I got a Magnefine inline filter.....also shown in my pictures.
I installed the Magnefine in the RETURN hose (low pressure).
You will need the 3/8" size.
It is not likely that new fluid will fix the leak....but a new rack job should include a fluid flush (no cleaners) and I would install the filter.
This filter will meet the waranty on the new rack.....and also protect your power steering pump.

just check my front end again, should i change both outer tie rods at the same time? do i need a special tool to remove the tie rod? the stabilizer bar bushings look good but if i grab the bar i can push and pull it left to right, is that good or does it not supposed to move. the stabilizer links are shot to, they twist and turn with my hand. and whats the best place to buy replacement parts for the windstars, thanks all.

I assume you're talking about your outer tie rod ends, although if you're replacing inner or outer I'd do both L and R. No point really in only doing 1 as you have to have an alignment after they're done. If it were me, I'd do both outers along with the stabilizer bar links. It's not a bad job at all. The moog ones are both able to be lubricated which is a big bonus. I bought mine from Rock Auto as they were the best price around.

Piper

I assume you're talking about your outer tie rod ends, although if you're replacing inner or outer I'd do both L and R. No point really in only doing 1 as you have to have an alignment after they're done. If it were me, I'd do both outers along with the stabilizer bar links. It's not a bad job at all. The moog ones are both able to be lubricated which is a big bonus. I bought mine from Rock Auto as they were the best price around.

Piper

thank for the info,

what about the big stabilizer bar....is it supposed to move that freely with my hand? do i need any special tools for the outer tie rods?

no the stabilizer bar shouldn't be that easy to move. You may require new stabilizer bar bushings. This is also a fairly easy job to do but you'll have to carefully lower the frame in order to remove the old stabilizer bar bushing hardware. Look at the bushing on the stabilizer bar. If you can see that the rubber of the bushing is loose on the bar they'll need replacing. On my van I've replaced them 2 times each and it only has 140,000 km. They seem to go quickly IMO.

Piper

no the stabilizer bar shouldn't be that easy to move. You may require new stabilizer bar bushings. This is also a fairly easy job to do but you'll have to carefully lower the frame in order to remove the old stabilizer bar bushing hardware. Look at the bushing on the stabilizer bar. If you can see that the rubber of the bushing is loose on the bar they'll need replacing. On my van I've replaced them 2 times each and it only has 140,000 km. They seem to go quickly IMO.

Piper thanks again, but do i need any special tools for the outer tie rods? also what size it the stabilizer bushing-20.5m or 22m, thanks

anybody?????? whats the size of the stabilizer bar?

is the stabilizer bushing-20.5m or 22m on a ford 2000 winny. thanks

anybody?????? whats the size of the stabilizer bar?

is the stabilizer bushing-20.5m or 22m. thanks

1996 3.8L

I measured the outside diameter of the sway bar to be 21.3mm so I'm not sure if it is considered 20.5 or 22 mm. I ended getting part number Autozone's oem FA7035. I measured the inside diameter to be 21.5mm so I went it. Nothing on the box to indicate the size.

Now to start the job. Piper, or anyone else. After raising the car using its front jack supports and supporting the subrame separately with 2 jacks, do you loosen any other things other than the 2 large bolts supporting the rear subframe?

CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they performance of vital components and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. They must be exchanged with the same part number or an equivalent part if an exchange is necessary. Do not use an alternative part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure these parts are properly retained. Note: Make sure the steering wheel is in the unlocked position. Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.





Remove and discard the front stabilizer bar link nut. Repeat on the other side.





Remove and discard the front stabilizer bar link nut and remove the front stabilizer bar link. Repeat on the other side.
Using suitable jack stands, support the front subframe.





Remove and discard the two front subframe bolts.
Lower the front subframe 5 - 8 cm (2 - 3 inches) to gain access to the stabilizer bar bracket retaining bolts.





Remove the front stabilizer bar.
1 Remove and discard the four front stabilizer bar bracket bolts.
2 Remove the front stabilizer bar brackets.
3 Remove the front stabilizer bar.
Installation is the reverse of the above.

The stabilizer bar links get torqued to 66 ft-lbs, the sub frame gets torqued to 66 ft-lbs, the stabilizer bar bushing brackets get torqued to 46 ft-lbs. When I dropped the sub frame I didn't detach the stabilizer bar links at the strut as I felt that there was enough room. You may want to remove the link. I used bottle jacks under the sub frame to slowly lower the frame.


Using new fasteners, follow the removal procedure in reverse order.


Piper

do you need to buy new ones?

welp this is something you'll need to decide. When I replaced my bushings both time I did not replace the subframe bolts. When I inquired at my local Ford if they would the parts guy looked up the last time they'd bought sub frame bolts for a 2000 windstar. They hadn't in 4 or 5 years. He did follow that with "we replace a lot of stabilizer bar bushings". So, use common sense here, if they look good, I'd clean them up and reinstall.

Your decision.

thank you northern piper (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=544871), i still havent found the correct size for the bushings....also when you remove the subframe bolts do you do them one side at a time or they need to be both removed together. like is the subframe one whole piece? that has to lowered together? thanks. is there bushings for the subframe mounts?

I put a bottle jack underneath both sides of the frame and carefully lowered them together, going back and forth 1/2" or so per side until the whole thing was about 1.5 to 2 inches down. This allowed me to get a wrench on the bolts and remove them. IIRC the diameter is the smaller bushing, not the larger. It's a tough fit for the smaller bushing which is what you want. The larger bushing once again IIRC slips on way to easy. It should be tight and upon fastening the bracket and torquing the bolts will be quite stiff. Possibly your sway bar is thinner by .1 or .2 mm due to normal wear and that's way it's measuring under.

Piper

I put a bottle jack underneath both sides of the frame and carefully lowered them together, going back and forth 1/2" or so per side until the whole thing was about 1.5 to 2 inches down. This allowed me to get a wrench on the bolts and remove them. IIRC the diameter is the smaller bushing, not the larger. It's a tough fit for the smaller bushing which is what you want. The larger bushing once again IIRC slips on way to easy. It should be tight and upon fastening the bracket and torquing the bolts will be quite stiff. Possibly your sway bar is thinner by .1 or .2 mm due to normal wear and that's way it's measuring under.

Piper

thanks again,

i agree racs going to be your worst nightmare. the tie rods are easy you may need a pickle fork but also you can smack right on the edge where it goes in the hole any they will usualley will come right loose.

good luck...

scrapper1

i agree racs going to be your worst nightmare. the tie rods are easy you may need a pickle fork but also you can smack right on the edge where it goes in the hole any they will usualley will come right loose.

good luck...

scrapper1

thanks scrapper.

whats the size of the stabilizer bar bushing-20.5m or 22m on a ford 2000 windstar thanks.

whats the size of the stabilizer bar bushing-20.5m or 22m on a ford 2000 windstar thanks.

If you have a caliper and get a reading of around 21.3 mm, then get the 22mm. Otherwise, get both and return what you do not end up using. My '96 3.8L calls for a 22mm.

I finished the job today. After having the van sit on jack stands, I used 2 floor jacks to lower the subframe just enough to get the clearance to remove the bolt.

not a problem glad i could help you out a little.

scrapper1

Done, thanks

I have to do this repair soon on my 96. The sway bar snapped in half!!

So do only the front bolts of the cradle need to be romoved?? Is there any aftermarket bars avable for the Windstars? Something maybe a little thicker, to improve handeling any??