Another 97 blazer wont start problem

It started in janurary, hard start in cold weather. replaced fuel pump and battery. car was fine for about a month. Notice fuel gauge at 1/4, actually need to fill up gas tank. Also if at 1/4 and facing down truck will not start until level or raised at an angle. another month car would just stall and shut off. I thought it was the gas guage again because I was at 1/4 again. I was able to start and get gas, it started fine when I arrived home and left it parked the next day, it would crank but not kick over.

truck is a V6-262 150k Vin# W
recent work: Fuel pump( ac delco), filter replaced. Also spark plugs,cap(BWD Brand), rotor,wires, ac performance,water pump replaced (total cost 1800)
All lights on dash come on, no check engine light.
I have read anywhere from ignition switch to ignition module or core. where should i actually start.:banghead:

It started in janurary, hard start in cold weather. replaced fuel pump and battery. car was fine for about a month. Notice fuel gauge at 1/4, actually need to fill up gas tank. Also if at 1/4 and facing down truck will not start until level or raised at an angle. another month car would just stall and shut off. I thought it was the gas guage again because I was at 1/4 again. I was able to start and get gas, it started fine when I arrived home and left it parked the next day, it would crank but not kick over.

truck is a V6-262 150k Vin# W
recent work: Fuel pump( ac delco), filter replaced. Also spark plugs,cap(BWD Brand), rotor,wires, ac performance,water pump replaced (total cost 1800)
All lights on dash come on, no check engine light.
I have read anywhere from ignition switch to ignition module or core. where should i actually start.:banghead:

Check for spark at the plugs (I use a timing light while cranking engine.

If no spark, check coil. Remove coil wire from distributor cap, and place near metal object that's grounded to engine.
If you have spark, then the igintion coil module is bad.
Check this thread to see if you have any of the symptoms I just went through.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=913252

Is this brain box is behind the battery? Also can it be replaced with a brainbox from a different year(96). I can get it from the bone yard for 50 bucks then spending over 200 bucks

Also wanted to mention I have no blown fuses. Only electrical quirt I have is the ABS and Antilock lights always on not usre if that is good or bad.

Is this brain box is behind the battery? Also can it be replaced with a brainbox from a different year(96). I can get it from the bone yard for 50 bucks then spending over 200 bucks

On the right (passenger fender, mounted on top of antifreeze overflow box.

You can use a VCM for other '97 Trucks, but it still needs to be reprogrammed for your specific truck. (different options in different vehicles).

I don't know if I'd try a '96. Probably not a good idea, unless you can cross ref. the p/n as being the same (Check gmpartdirect.com or rockauto.com)

I had to run thru a specific set of tests to determine it was the computer on mine. Unfortunately, it cost me $400.00 to figure it out.

Make sure that's what's wrong before throwing money at it.


The ABS and brake lights are totally unrelated to starting problems.
That's a problem with the ABSW controller, or a sensor on one of the wheels.

Can reprogramming the ECM be done without going to the dealer? Also how would one test if ECM is bad? Thx

You have an ignition switch failure which is the most common thing wrong with 1997 Blazers. It is in the ignition column.

Here are some threads to consider:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/search.php?searchid=2243038

As you see, a no fault start problem is usually this one swtich in all 1997s.

BLZRLT the link below is not valid. states AF message not found

Go to this link and go to the top right search above the subforums and search for ignition switch.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=119

I wanted to inform everyone who responded to my thread, That i have replaced my ignition switch and Im up and running. We will see for how long:thumbsup:

Well, the fix only lasted one week to the day i replaced the ignition switch. same results. engine will crank but will not kick over.
it was stuck for two days in the park and ride and for some freak of nature i was able to start it to get it home. once home it didnt start again. yesterday i followed the tests for the coil and it tested ok. I dont have test light for the module test. but I notice after reading the chilton book most of the references pertained to the PCM controling this sensor and that relay. i decided to unplug andtake apart the PCM. Nothing was physically wrong. When i placed it back my car started. i drove around the block then turned it off then backon, no problem then went to the store without turning the car off and went back home 15-20 mins tops. turned off the car, tried to start it again no dice. just would crank not kick over. So i unplug the PCm again and placed in the fridge to cool it down cause it was very hot. after a half hour place back in the car started. let it run for five minutes turned it off then back on, no dice. Should i get the PCM checked or look for something else?:shakehead