More brake troubles

History 1st.

First brake problem was that I had a stuck caliper on the front drivers side. I replaced that and all was well for a while.

Then I got just the brake light. I found out it was the leaking brake speed switch problem that we all know about. Fixed that and worked ok for a bit. Also due to the loss of fluid, I had to replace the passenger side caliper because the bleed bold was frozen.

After a while, both the brake like and ABS light came on. So i figured theres either brake fluid on the ABS or it had the overheat problem. I pulled the fuses for the ABS and everything seemed ok for a bit.

About 2 weeks ago the passenger side caliper froze again, grinding the inside pad down and destroying the rotor. I replaced the caliper, bled and replaced the pads. Seems fine.

Now today, my wife says she's getting the same grinding sound from the drivers side. I haven't looked but im guessing now that the caliper is stuck on that side.

What is going on here. This van has some serious brake issues, and I don't have the money to get ford or a mechanic to fix it. Any ideas what might be causing this to happen repeatedly?

Thanks!

Mark

I have two '98 Ford Windstars, my boyfriends runs rough (always has done), and mine has started with a brake problem. I was given the van as a gift and the front brakes had just been done on it. I was told the rear brakes needed doing right away so I got them done. 2 days later as I'm driving I go to brake and get the shock of my life when the brakes start grabbing real heavy and the brae pedal is jumping so hard it's trying to force my foot off the brake! I can hear a clunking noise (from the front) and now my ABS and traction control lights are on and off infrequently. What the heck is with this thing? ANybody got any ideas??

My brakes only started to do the "grabbing" thing with clunking and the ABS light coming on AFTER I got the front brakes done. I knew it was time to get them done, but when it started acting up afterwards I just figured maybe the rear brakes needed doing now too. It was just aswell that I did get the rear brakes done because the wheel cylinder on one side was completely shot, and I needed new drums etc etc. Could it be that the ABS sensor got dirty while the front was being done like tripledaddy said? How would I know? Is there a way to check? I don't know where the ABS sensor and wiring is located, does anyone know?? Thanks.

Boy, I wish I could have my first post back!?! I don't remember half of what I said!?! Wish AF didn't loose it!?! :shakehead:

Wiswind, the moderator, has in his signature several photos, which may contain them. Possibly Autozone has pictures of them in their repair section for your year or earlier years will be similar. Basically, they are all about the same. Behind each tire, you will see a black wire thinner than a pencil, looping down to the axle area to the sensor. In the front, a gear is mounted on each driveshaft with the sensor aimed at the gear and sitting aft of the axle. Depending on rear brakes, the gear ring and sensor could be outside behind the brake backer plate similarly arranged like the front or inside some drum brake arrangements. I would think brake cleaning spray would be good engough, maybe a rag too. Make sure all wiring connections are tight, wiring in good condition, sensors are firmly attached, the toothed rings do not appear damaged.

Wow, my thread has been hijacked. Any ideas on my original post?

Darn memory's straining, computer's are the cure for society, bull, they're the bane!?!

I think what I said was to bleed it and bleed it some more.
What was the condition of the fluid when you did the caliper replacements?
Sure sounds like there would be a lot of crud having to replace calipers twice.
Did you really replace one side twice?
You said the rt side stuck twice?
What did you do with it? Push it back one time and replace it the other?
When the piston was stuck when you replaced it, could you at all push the pistons back?
Did you try pushing them back with the line off?
Look at all of the brake hoses and squash them to feel if they are collapsed any. That could cause your brakes to drag.
Have you checked you master cylinder to brake pedal linkage to be sure it is returning properly?
I guess with new callipers on both sides, the slide pins are well greased to self-align?

Any chance you were sent my first post by email notification? If so, copy and paste it here if you can.

Darn memory's straining, computer's are the cure for society, bull, they're the bane!?!

I think what I said was to bleed it and bleed it some more.
What was the condition of the fluid when you did the caliper replacements?
Sure sounds like there would be a lot of crud having to replace calipers twice.
Did you really replace one side twice?
You said the rt side stuck twice?
What did you do with it? Push it back one time and replace it the other?
When the piston was stuck when you replaced it, could you at all push the pistons back?
Did you try pushing them back with the line off?
Look at all of the brake hoses and squash them to feel if they are collapsed any. That could cause your brakes to drag.
Have you checked you master cylinder to brake pedal linkage to be sure it is returning properly?
I guess with new callipers on both sides, the slide pins are well greased to self-align?

Any chance you were sent my first post by email notification? If so, copy and paste it here if you can.

Tripletdaddy,

Here's what I got in the email

"Wiswind, the moderator, has in his signature several photos, which may contain them. Possibly Autozone has pictures of them in their repair section for your year or earlier years will be similar. Basically, they are all about the same. Behind each tire, you will see a black wire thinner than a pencil, looping down to the axle area to the sensor. In the front, a gear is mounted on each driveshaft with the sensor aimed at the gear and sitting aft of the axle. Depending on rear brakes, the gear ring and sensor could be outside behind the brake backer plate similarly arranged like the front or inside some drum brake arrangements. I would think brake cleaning spray would be good engough, maybe a rag too. Make sure all wiring connections are tight, wiring in good condition, sensors are firmly attached, the toothed rings do not appear damaged."


As for my issue. I did replace the caliper 2 times since they are free under the Autozone warranty. The 1st time, with the caliper off of the car, I could press one piston in with my hand, but not the other. The 2nd time, I couldn't do either. I did grease the pins and they seem to slide pretty well. This has happened on both sides (driver and passenger). I haven't checked the lines for collapsing. Also, I've bled the lines, but perhaps not enough. The fluid coming out seems like it might still be a tad dirty. Thanks for replying.

Mark

Now remember to get a full even bleed through the system you have cycle the ABS pump.. Need a ABS scan tool to do it.. Best thing to do is bleed it best you can than let a shop that as the ABS scan tool do it.. Only reason I don't have one is not enough brake jobs to warrant the buying one. Now if any air has made it into the system and has made it to the pump could cause you to have uneven
pressure going to the pistons of the calipers..Did you ever have uneven braking. Like pulling to one side a little more than the other.. Just curious..

sorry I hijacked your thread, still trying to figure out how to post a new one!!

Tripletdaddy,

Here's what I got in the email

"Wiswind, the moderator, has in his signature several photos, which may contain them. Possibly Autozone has pictures of them in their repair section for your year or earlier years will be similar. Basically, they are all about the same. Behind each tire, you will see a black wire thinner than a pencil, looping down to the axle area to the sensor. In the front, a gear is mounted on each driveshaft with the sensor aimed at the gear and sitting aft of the axle. Depending on rear brakes, the gear ring and sensor could be outside behind the brake backer plate similarly arranged like the front or inside some drum brake arrangements. I would think brake cleaning spray would be good engough, maybe a rag too. Make sure all wiring connections are tight, wiring in good condition, sensors are firmly attached, the toothed rings do not appear damaged."


As for my issue. I did replace the caliper 2 times since they are free under the Autozone warranty. The 1st time, with the caliper off of the car, I could press one piston in with my hand, but not the other. The 2nd time, I couldn't do either. I did grease the pins and they seem to slide pretty well. This has happened on both sides (driver and passenger). I haven't checked the lines for collapsing. Also, I've bled the lines, but perhaps not enough. The fluid coming out seems like it might still be a tad dirty. Thanks for replying.

Markhello Radink, Sounds like you put air in the the lines. Before you do anything take the vehicle out for a drive and observe the vehicles reaction to various braking situations. Then bleed passenger side 2x min. using the 2 men method and pump the brake pedel 10x and hold the 2nd person open the bleeder then close then do it again. When your done wrap it up then test drive. If its better then do the same wheel again. I had this problem it helped me bigtime in not getting an abs light.

Tripletdaddy,

Here's what I got in the email

"Wiswind, the moderator, has in his signature several photos, which may contain them. Possibly Autozone has pictures of them in their repair section for your year or earlier years will be similar. Basically, they are all about the same. Behind each tire, you will see a black wire thinner than a pencil, looping down to the axle area to the sensor. In the front, a gear is mounted on each driveshaft with the sensor aimed at the gear and sitting aft of the axle. Depending on rear brakes, the gear ring and sensor could be outside behind the brake backer plate similarly arranged like the front or inside some drum brake arrangements. I would think brake cleaning spray would be good engough, maybe a rag too. Make sure all wiring connections are tight, wiring in good condition, sensors are firmly attached, the toothed rings do not appear damaged."


As for my issue. I did replace the caliper 2 times since they are free under the Autozone warranty. The 1st time, with the caliper off of the car, I could press one piston in with my hand, but not the other. The 2nd time, I couldn't do either. I did grease the pins and they seem to slide pretty well. This has happened on both sides (driver and passenger). I haven't checked the lines for collapsing. Also, I've bled the lines, but perhaps not enough. The fluid coming out seems like it might still be a tad dirty. Thanks for replying.

Markhello Radink, Sounds like you put air in the the lines. Before you do anything take the vehicle out for a drive and observe the vehicles reaction to various braking situations. Then bleed passenger side 2x min. using the 2 men method and pump the brake pedel 10x and hold the 2nd person open the bleeder then close then do it again. When your done wrap it up then test drive. If its better then do the same wheel again. I had this problem it helped me bigtime in not getting an abs light and more even braking.