02 Windstar Cam Synchronizer Replacement

Alright, bare with me. I am a first time poster here... But, I am a faithful Windstar customer as I am currently driving a '98 and my wife just totaled our '03. Hence, I am now the proud owner of a new-to-me '02 with ~85k on it. That's my story. :)

So, regarding the '02 (3.8L)... After having mis-diagnosed the chirping as related to the alternator, I took it to the Ford dealership to have the problem diagnosed. They assured me (for just $40) that the culprit was the cam synchronizer. I have read quite a bit on this forum about replacing the synchronizer, but I still have a few questions:

1) One thread said to get the #1 cylinder at TDC and then clock the crankshaft another 26° or 27° (I can't remember which). Others (along with Mr. Haynes) said nothing about additional clocking. So my question. How do I get #1 to TDC? My only idea is to take out a spark plug and poke a screwdriver in while someone turns the crank pulley from the bottom. But please tell me there is a better way! And if I do need to clock the crank another 20+°, how do I accurately do that?

2) Next question: If after I'm done, the engine starts and seems to run well, have I succeeded? It seems that if the timing is a hair off, either gas mileage or performance will suffer, right? How do I know if I got it just right? Should I be this paranoid?

3) Will I need to remove any of the ventilation duct work to pull the synchronizer straight out? It looks like it could be in the way, but I'm hoping I'll just have to remove the water pump tube.

4) Is there any chance of damaging or somehow rendering the oil pump inoperable during the procedure?

If anyone has photos or some other documented procedure, that would be great. Sorry for being so long-winded!

Thanks! Ryan

Remove pass side front tire to gain access to dampner/crank pulley. Scuff dampner with sandpaper to find timing marks. Disconnect battery cable and all that safe stuff. Remove camshaft position sensor from top of cam synchro. Now, while rotating crank clockwise you'll know #1 cyl is at TDC compression when the rotating vane approaches the "window" in the synchro housing, the vane rotates counterclockwise if I remember correctly, and the timing mark on dampner aligns with pointer. On the 2000 model I removed the cowling, removed the coolant tube that enters the water pump. This was time consuming as tube was seized in pump, there was also a 2nd mounting tab for tube at PS pump. Remove serp belt so PS pump could be unbolted & held to side, now there will be room to pull synchro. Note direction that vane turns when pulling synchro. When synchro is pulled, the shaft that drives oil pump should stay with synchro, pull and install on new unit. If you have alignment tool, install on new synchro and reinstall. Synchro timing will be correct, if you don't have alignment tool, take some measurements or make your own alignment marks, I recommend the tool available for $20 to $30. Some aftermarket manufacturers provide tool with purchase of snychro. Cam position sensor provides PCM with info for timing of fuel injection system. Hope this helps.

I used the alignment tool when I replaced mine. I did not worry about lining up with #1 TDC. I took off the cam sensor and put the alignment tool on the old synchronizer. I rotated the engine until the tool lined up with the synchronizer. There is an arrow on the tool which I marked on the top of the block. I removed the old synchronizer, put the tool on the new synchronizer, and lined up the arrow with the mark on the block. The synchronizer shaft will rotate when it lines up with the gear on the oil pump, if your off the mark, lift it up and try again. As long as you keep the tool locked on the synchronizer, you should hit the mark. At worst, you will be off by a tooth or two which will be very noticeable.
Stay away from the cheap replacement from Dorman Inc. It is Chinese and poorly made and I've heard bad things. I used a remanufactured Ford part from Cardone. If not, get one from the dealer.

I agree with both the above posters. But I find Pitteach's approach simpler. I will try to add a couple of observations that make the tool unneccessary:

1. Since your engine is currently operational, we can assume the synchronizer is currently timed OK. So all you have to do is observe the current relationship of the "wand" to the "window" ... and get the new synchro set up exactly the same. You could use a digital camera to help the memory. You don't have to worry about "TDC", "clocking the crank", none of that stuff ... but you do have to make sure that the crank is not rotated during the removal/reinstallation procedure.

2. Remove the sensor. Observe and record the wand-to-window relationship. Remove the synchronizer. (The oil pump is not a concern ... even though the shaft drives both the oil pump and synchronizer.) Install the new synchronizer with the exact same wand/window relationship as the original synchro. (The new synchro body may not end up in the exact same location as the one removed ... it may be twisted a bit ... they just don't make the synchro's that identically.) Install the sensor, etc.

You should now be "good to go". (I've used this procedure. I've also used the tool. Both methods are OK.)

Slightly rotating the crank then trying to get the alignment tool to drop into position on existing synchro is a good idea. I also tried that, on my van the synchro timing was actually retarded. The alignment tool would not drop until I was about 8 degrees ATDC. When I reinstalled synchro I repositioned crank to TDC and dropped in synchro with alignment tool. Without actually confirming dampner timing marks you are assuming the existing timing is OK as 12 ounce mentioned. If you ever had any timing cover work performed or are unsure of vehicle history, synchro timing may be off. I think there is even a TSB on the matter, so some may have been off from the factory as I suspect mine was.

Will routine engine washing cause the Synchronizer issues?

With all the stuff mounted on the front of the engine, it is very difficult to get a direct line of vision to the timing pointer on the front cover ... and my pulley/dampner markings were almost non-existent. Could they have made it a little more difficult? I actually first measured piston travel, and then re-marked the pulley, to get some useable markings.

Good question about the engine washing, Ed. I can only say I lost a synchronizer and had never washed the engine that I can remember. But I do think hi-pressure washing could contribute to failure. Its probably a good idea to occasionally lift the sensor and drop some clean oil drops in the top of the synchro. Just my guess.

Welp, I replaced the cam syncrhonizer this weekend. It fixed the chirping noise. You could tell that it was the probelm just turning it by hand. It also had some black dust/filings that appeared to be the result of friction in the bushing/shaft. I did end up using the tool from OTC, and didn't worry about getting #1 to TDC. In fact, I had no idea where to look for timing marks on the damper/crank pulley. If anyone has some pictures or a diagram, I'd be curious to see it. It seems to be running well now. However, when I first started it, it made a grinding noise. Hopefully, it was just the water pump running dry for a minute as a result of disconnecting the inlet tube! I drove it around a bit and everything seemed normal. Just fyi, I originally bought the chinese made part from NAPA for $45. I returned it and got the Motorcraft part from Parts Plus for $115.

Glad your problem is resolved, however I suspect the timing of the synchro may be off if you didn't find #1 TDC. Did you do as was suggested, slowly rotate crank until alignment tool would drop onto orginal synchro, then drop tool on new synchro & install new synchro? You should be OK if you used that procedure, but if orginal timing of existing synchro was off, it would still be off. To find timing marks on dampner, scuff entire circumference with sandpaper, marks will be faint. The only way to view pointer/mark relationship is with the pass tire off and your head up in the wheel well.
Pointer is part of the timing chain cover. Marks on my dampner were three longer marks with intermediate marks. The long center mark should be TDC.

Yes, I used the method that you described. I didn't remove the old synchro until the tool dropped in. So, my timing should be the same as it was before (right, wrong, or indifferent :). Just to clarify, the damper is the rusty steel disk just behind the crank pulley right?

Using the method you described, the timing of the new synchro would be the same as what the original was. Yes, the dampner is that rusty object behind the crank pulley, there are timing marks on it but they probably won't be visible unless you scuff up surface with some sandpaper.

Would this procedure be the same for the 1995 3.8L?
Also, I have a new engine so I should be able to see these timing marks easier huh?

so how do i reinstall this thing is i didnt get a tool and was stupid enough not to pay attention to how i took it out. cause that the story of my life...

I replaced my Camshaft position senser in my '98, turns out, it wasn't the sensor. Somehow the top of the synchronizer got bent and it was destroying the inside of the sensor.

I can't offer any advice on installation, I took it to a mechanic for that, it wasn't very expensive.

TheRealGrezig,

You, my friend, are a risk taker! I would suggest you buy the tool ... make sure you get the one for your year model. While the tool is being shipped/delivered, take some time to look at the crank pulley. It will take some time. Turn the crank until the scribe marks are accessible. Enhance them a little with cleaning and re-marking with white-out or finger nail polish. Then find the timing "pointer". Then have a good cusing at Ford for locating it where it is!

If you do some searches on this forum, you should find some other postings with more info.

TheRealGrizeg, without making some kind of reference marks prior to removal you'll have to find TDC on #1 Cyl. I had to scuff up the dampner with sandpaper to see the marks, the center mark is TDC. You'll also have to make sure it it TDC compression stroke. You can pull the #1 plug and watch a compression guage or have an assistant feel for compression coming out of the plug hole. Once TDC compression is found, you'll need to purchase alignment tool, place tool on synchro and reinstall. Make sure you have the shaft that drives the oil pump in place. Hope this helps.