david-b's 95 Eagle Talon ESi N/A to Turbo Project

Yea you need to get it running good so you dont blow it up. When you pull from like 2k all the way to 5k or something. Start low so the turbo spools slowly does the car ever get below 12? I wondering if it is rich but leans out cause the injectors are to small or if the FMU unit just cant put enough fuel in there. You injectors also are old and may not be spraying great.

Yea you need to get it running good so you dont blow it up. When you pull from like 2k all the way to 5k or something. Start low so the turbo spools slowly does the car ever get below 12? I wondering if it is rich but leans out cause the injectors are to small or if the FMU unit just cant put enough fuel in there. You injectors also are old and may not be spraying great.

My WB gauge is under the radio at the moment, so it's hard to watch the road, rpm and this thing all at once. I'm going to take out the volt gauge in the pillar and move the WB up there when I rewire everything, but it's been cold, rainy, and I've been mad busy. I have however seen it hit 10.x a couple times... but never really seen when. If I go WOT at like 2000rpm in 3rd and start going up til about 4 or so, it stays at 12.x.

Dave man you just need to ditch the SAFC and FMU and get a decent setup. I am going to be selling the SFMU and my 440s in a little while if you want them.

Dave man you just need to ditch the SAFC and FMU and get a decent setup. I am going to be selling the SFMU and my 440s in a little while if you want them.

I would still need something to manage then right?

The 310s would actually be idle and you would be able to get a pretty good tune without any fuel management. If you were to run the 440s you should be able to get a good tune also but your part throttle may be a little rich. If I were you I would start with just the SFMU and bigger injectors and then later on get some fuel management.

Cars been a little weird lately. On Saturday I drove a good 150+ miles all day and it was pretty warm, and the car seemed to be stuttering a little the farther the day went on. I'm going to see if I can rent a compression tester fro AZ since I've never done one, and see what I get. Looking at doing that on Sunday. For some reason, I'm thinking the worst, but I could be off. My oil levels are not changing at all, and everything else seems fine. Car ran decent the next day, although still doing that.

I didn't have that problem until I changed the spark plugs, which weren't gaped 100% properly (my fault ;) ).

Ran some Seafoam through the vacuum lines the other day and man was she smoking. I did my research and it said it would smoke, but I didn't think it would smoke up my entire backyard, the alley, and the whole block. And I only used a couple sips from the can. The ran it hard and watched the street smoke up as I was driving. I'm ordering new plugs today, doing more seafoam, then changing the plugs when I get them. Seeing if that helps any.

Where else can I use the seafoam? I seen I can put it in the oil... is that recommended? I just put seal fixer/leak stopper can in there to try to repair any seals (leaks a little).

And looking at how much I've had in taxes from work taken out this year and the fact that this is the first time I'm not claimed by my parents, I should be looking at a decent size tax refund next year... which means............ :grinyes:

Gah....u put leak stop in your motor? How thick was it. I know we sell some that looks like syrup, I wouldnt ever put that in my motor..

Gah....u put leak stop in your motor? How thick was it. I know we sell some that looks like syrup, I wouldnt ever put that in my motor..

The shit was from a can. Wasn't too too thick. Have to change the oil this weekend or next anyways.


Oh it was great with the seafoam too... it showed me where my DP is leaking. Engine bay went up in smoke :lol:

You can put seafoam in the oil, gas tank, and into the motor. If you add it to the oil change it after about 250miles so get all the crap out that it breaks loose.

Finished seafoaming through vacuum lines this weekend. Smoked the whole neighborhood pretty nicely again. I replaced the plugs after running the car hard then. The plugs I bought were in a different package than the last set, and one or the other had the model number and then 11 afterward. I forget which was which, but these were gapped right out of the box and run GREAT. So smooth compared to the last ones which I had to gap 3 times and still were shitty.

Also picked the car up and I have some play in the passenger wheel, so I'll be taking the car into the shop soon. I'll get the PS back working too while it's there. Should probably get brakes too.

...And my car got broken into this afternoon...

...And my car got broken into this afternoon...

What did they steal?

...And my car got broken into this afternoon...


http://photos-f.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-snc1/v371/176/52/514997704/n514997704_1109965_1458.jpg

Car got broken into mid day in broad day light. Nothing but my battery charger was stolen. Not my radar detector or my radio or the SAFC or any gauges... nothing but the charger. Getting new window tomorrow.

Also got a SFMU and some bigger injectors from Jay. Thanks.

Thats boo boo. Atleast they didnt really gank anything. Keep a better eye on your stuff, was it at your house?

Thats boo boo. Atleast they didnt really gank anything. Keep a better eye on your stuff, was it at your house?

My car sits for the whole week in my car port which is off an alley basically in my backyard and it doesn't get touched ever. Most happen was I had a Slurpee cup put over my muffler one day. 711 is literally 2 lots down.

I had to park on the street (which is one lot down) because the car port was getting re-surfaced on Monday. Car wasn't touched. Landlord asked to keep the car off so it'll dry a little more so I did. He called yesterday and between 11am and 1pm, someone did that. There's businesses all around, so it's weird that no one seen it go down. But whatever.

Now I'm looking at getting an alarm again. I get discounts so it's all good.

$60 for a new window. Took 45minutes to do. Not bad at all.

I broke my car last night. I've said before how the steering was getting really squeaky, and there's some play in the passenger wheel... well i took out last night for a little joy ride (more like releasing anger since I had no 'other' way of doing it at the time) and the steering is basically locked up now. I don't know what happened, but now it's about 50% harder to turn (remind you I have no PS) and it squeaks like the whole thing is about to fall apart.

So I'm ordering a rebuilt R&P unit and taking it in probably the week after Thanksgiving and getting the suspension taken care of. Don't care what the problem(s) is/are, I just want PS again and everything working fine.

So until then... car is off the road.

So you took the power steering off and now your going to put it back on?

So you took the power steering off and now your going to put it back on?

No I never took it off. It rusted a couple years back to the point where it doesn't hold fluid. I just never got it fixed. Driving with no PS is a good workout, and much better on the expressway. I've got parallel parking down great also. But there's sometimes when I miss it though and would like it back. And since she's going in the shop, which is rare, may as well get it taken care of.

I actually do like |PS alot.

So the power steering is still on the car just has no fluid. Doesn't sounds healthy for any part of that system.

So the power steering is still on the car just has no fluid. Doesn't sounds healthy for any part of that system.

Ya. Been like that for years. Hell half the time I didn't even have the pump hooked up to the belt.

I actually do like |PS alot.
Word. I hear when you get up in the power levels launching is a huge bitch with no PS. When (if) I ever get time and money to work on my Talon again I would take all of the frills except the PS.

I also have no power steering on my clipse. The pump assembly deal broke, so....no power steering. Havent had any problems with creaks, or looseness or anything. It sucks in parking lots, but other than that its nice. Builds up the arm muscles and its lovely on high speed curvy roads. If I ever do the motor swap, PS may or may not go back on...its undecided. If not, I will swap to a manual rack....yea thats probly what I'll do.

I also have no power steering on my clipse. The pump assembly deal broke, so....no power steering. Havent had any problems with creaks, or looseness or anything. It sucks in parking lots, but other than that its nice. Builds up the arm muscles and its lovely on high speed curvy roads. If I ever do the motor swap, PS may or may not go back on...its undecided.

I want to put some kind of switch to shut it off on the expressway. I rock at parking without P/S. Will be nice to have it back soon.

The car is in the shop today getting the rebuild rack and pinion that I bought put on, and they're going to let me know and fix everything that's wrong with the front suspension. It's going to be a pretty penny sadly, but it needs to get done. Hopefully it'll be ready by tonight and drive like new.

Sometimes you just got to bite the bullet and pay someone to fix it.

Sometimes you just got to bite the bullet and pay someone to fix it.

OUCH! Just got the call. Both lower call joints on the passenger side were shot to hell. Said the wheel was near to popping out of the one. That's why it was squeaking when turning and hitting bumps (assumed R&P). Passenger wheel hub is also starting to go but not that bad. So 2 control arms and R&P and it'll be done tomorrow. Hefty price too. A little more than I was looking to spend. But it all needs to get done, although R&P I could have gone more without, but I have to send back the old one to get my core refund next week.

HOWEVER, which balljoint is under recall? I've had the lower control arms replaced when I first bought the car and Chrysler reimburse me for them. I don't remember which ones they were though. I just had to take the car in, they 'checked them out' and then had paper to fill out and sent everything in. If one of these are the right joints, I'm going to do that again.

EDIT: Also funny that the car wouldn't start at the shop. I dropped it off last night, they moved it into the garage no problems. Moved it out of the garage this morning no issues. Went to move it back in 2 hours later and battery was dead.

At least the car will be fixed. It may cost a good bit but its not going to make any noise and you know its safe.

Car is back home! New lower control arms and rack and pinion installed. I forgot what it's like to have R&P so I keep over steering :lol:. It's running great but I'm going to take it back for a touch up on the alignment. Veers off to the side still, but all in all runs great. Very excited again. Except when I look at the bill, but that's another story.

Well how much did the repairs cost?

Well how much did the repairs cost?

$890 total minus whatever I paid for the R&P. I figure I should be able to get $150-200 back from Chrysler.