transmission fluid ??
fy171
05-12-2008, 09:14 PM
stupid questing, I change transmission filter when I drop the pan the fluid was light brownish not reddish like when its new, about 7 1/2 qt's drain out replace the fluid with new after driving over 125 miles I look at the dip stick and the fluid was like new , with still around 7 qt's of old fluid mix with new I would think it start to look a little brownish, does all the fluid in the Trans flow throw the pan and filter at all time
thanks frank
thanks frank
catvents
05-13-2008, 01:27 AM
Usually you get about 5 to 6 qt or so when you drop the pan. Total capacity is 12.25 qt so you did change about the half or close to. Wipe your dipstick on a white rag and compare with a drop from a new Mercon V qt, which should be more red then what you have wiped on the dipstick.
mundy5
05-13-2008, 11:49 AM
fy171,
Yes, it does flow through the system. there is a way found in the Ford FSM that can get about 14 qts out. You need to disengage the return tube to the cooler and drain the fluid out while putting in new fluid. I got 14 qts replaced this way.
Yes, it does flow through the system. there is a way found in the Ford FSM that can get about 14 qts out. You need to disengage the return tube to the cooler and drain the fluid out while putting in new fluid. I got 14 qts replaced this way.
grizz3000
05-14-2008, 12:13 AM
... You need to disengage the return tube to the cooler and drain the fluid out while putting in new fluid. I got 14 qts replaced this way.
Good tip mundy5, but I'm a little confused (surprise).
So... I need to disconnect the return tube from the cooler (any hints on how to easily determine the return tube?) while I add new fluid. Do you mean make the return tube 'leak' the old fluid out and wait for the signs of newer fluid to appear, then tighten the return tube? All while engine is idling?
Sorry for the clarification question. I just want to gain an understanding prior to me changing out the wife's 01 Windstar tranny filter/fluid. She's put over 100,000 miles on it and this job has never been done to it. Yikes.
Good tip mundy5, but I'm a little confused (surprise).
So... I need to disconnect the return tube from the cooler (any hints on how to easily determine the return tube?) while I add new fluid. Do you mean make the return tube 'leak' the old fluid out and wait for the signs of newer fluid to appear, then tighten the return tube? All while engine is idling?
Sorry for the clarification question. I just want to gain an understanding prior to me changing out the wife's 01 Windstar tranny filter/fluid. She's put over 100,000 miles on it and this job has never been done to it. Yikes.
Ed_Strong
05-14-2008, 11:32 AM
This is the link on how the experience went for me. It also gives you details on how and what to disconnect. Check this link HERE (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=625072) for info. Hope it helps you out.
mundy5
05-14-2008, 01:33 PM
Sorry for the clarification question. I just want to gain an understanding prior to me changing out the wife's 01 Windstar tranny filter/fluid. She's put over 100,000 miles on it and this job has never been done to it. Yikes.
I give you my disclaimer that this info is given as is and no responsibility is taken by me. It is your responsibility to do as you wish with this info.
Grizz, you might get a number of different opinions on this but here is mine. I have read a number of folks say that if your transmission hasn't been flushed and you have high mileage >80,000, they do not recommend that you change it. Their reasoning is that the transmission has gotten used to the viscosity and will need it for the transmission to work properly. If you change a high mileage transmission for the first time, the new fluid being far more smooth and slippery, will actually damage the transmission resulting in failure very shortly after changing it.
Some have said that if you check the color of the transmission fluid and it is black or very dark, they said that the damage is already done. Drive it until it fails but they strongly discourage replacing it. I replaced mine at 53000 for the first time. I have never experienced this myself so I cannot speak to its accuracy but I have read a number of posts in different forums about this. Just do a search on the web and you'll see what I mean.
So... I need to disconnect the return tube from the cooler (any hints on how to easily determine the return tube?) while I add new fluid. Do you mean make the return tube 'leak' the old fluid out and wait for the signs of newer fluid to appear, then tighten the return tube? All while engine is idling?
Read my first paragraph again b/4 you go to this post for more specific instructions. Only do this if you feel the possibility of a transmission failure is worth it for you. The return line is the bottom tube. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=735065&highlight=transmission+fluid+change
I give you my disclaimer that this info is given as is and no responsibility is taken by me. It is your responsibility to do as you wish with this info.
Grizz, you might get a number of different opinions on this but here is mine. I have read a number of folks say that if your transmission hasn't been flushed and you have high mileage >80,000, they do not recommend that you change it. Their reasoning is that the transmission has gotten used to the viscosity and will need it for the transmission to work properly. If you change a high mileage transmission for the first time, the new fluid being far more smooth and slippery, will actually damage the transmission resulting in failure very shortly after changing it.
Some have said that if you check the color of the transmission fluid and it is black or very dark, they said that the damage is already done. Drive it until it fails but they strongly discourage replacing it. I replaced mine at 53000 for the first time. I have never experienced this myself so I cannot speak to its accuracy but I have read a number of posts in different forums about this. Just do a search on the web and you'll see what I mean.
So... I need to disconnect the return tube from the cooler (any hints on how to easily determine the return tube?) while I add new fluid. Do you mean make the return tube 'leak' the old fluid out and wait for the signs of newer fluid to appear, then tighten the return tube? All while engine is idling?
Read my first paragraph again b/4 you go to this post for more specific instructions. Only do this if you feel the possibility of a transmission failure is worth it for you. The return line is the bottom tube. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=735065&highlight=transmission+fluid+change
Will Help
05-14-2008, 01:46 PM
Unless you do alot of towing, it is not recommended to change the fluid. I currently have 4 vehicles that range from 140,000 to 187,000 miles that have never had filters or fluid changed and have no issues. In fact one has a fluid monitor which still reads ok and it has 168,000. The oldest is a 98 and the newest is a 2002 ( which has the most mileage ).
wiswind
05-14-2008, 02:41 PM
The Windstar manual calls for the fluid to be changed AT LEAST every 30K miles for normal service....and every 21K miles for "severe" service.
In the case of this unit....with 100K miles on it......these transmissions often fail at this point.
Mine did.....even with the 30K mile service done (60K and 90K also).
In your case.....I would change it several times.......1-2K miles apart.
This is because......there may be some sludge built up.
The issue with problem right after a fluid change at high miles......often people don't change the fluid until the transmission shows signs of problems........
Also.....the new fluid has a fresh additive package......and will clean the junk that the old worn out fluid left........which can cause the new fluid to become loaded up with junk.........
So....a couple of fluid changes will flush this junk out.
I use a in-line filter that is made by Magnefine......installs in the cooler line.
This will help filter junk out of the fluid.....but again......with this many miles....that little filter will need changing in SHORT order.......500 miles to 1K miles.
I have step by step instructions with pictures that show the transmission fluid exchange process......in the pictures that the link in my signature takes you to.
I have added a dose of Auto-RX to my fluid at 1000-1500 miles before a fluid change......which will do wonders to clean the buildup around the solenoids.
In the case of this unit....with 100K miles on it......these transmissions often fail at this point.
Mine did.....even with the 30K mile service done (60K and 90K also).
In your case.....I would change it several times.......1-2K miles apart.
This is because......there may be some sludge built up.
The issue with problem right after a fluid change at high miles......often people don't change the fluid until the transmission shows signs of problems........
Also.....the new fluid has a fresh additive package......and will clean the junk that the old worn out fluid left........which can cause the new fluid to become loaded up with junk.........
So....a couple of fluid changes will flush this junk out.
I use a in-line filter that is made by Magnefine......installs in the cooler line.
This will help filter junk out of the fluid.....but again......with this many miles....that little filter will need changing in SHORT order.......500 miles to 1K miles.
I have step by step instructions with pictures that show the transmission fluid exchange process......in the pictures that the link in my signature takes you to.
I have added a dose of Auto-RX to my fluid at 1000-1500 miles before a fluid change......which will do wonders to clean the buildup around the solenoids.
grizz3000
05-15-2008, 12:04 AM
Wiswind,
Yes, I've seen your webshots albums, and thanks!
I just now connected the method described above with your first picture, oops, sorry.
I agree with changing fluid as recommended. I believe ALL fluids should be changed-out regularly.
I've been too pre-occupied with rebuilding a 89 F250 so the wife's van has been neglected (tranny fluid wise that is)
Your rear brakes picutures should help me a lot too. Hers will be the first rear brake job I've ever done.
Wish me luck!
Yes, I've seen your webshots albums, and thanks!
I just now connected the method described above with your first picture, oops, sorry.
I agree with changing fluid as recommended. I believe ALL fluids should be changed-out regularly.
I've been too pre-occupied with rebuilding a 89 F250 so the wife's van has been neglected (tranny fluid wise that is)
Your rear brakes picutures should help me a lot too. Hers will be the first rear brake job I've ever done.
Wish me luck!
wiswind
05-15-2008, 06:59 AM
I prefer to work with the hose part of the cooler lines.
I remove the end that has a hose clamp......and go from there.
I don't feel as comfortable with removing the metal line at the tranny.......the hose is more "fool proof".
On the '96, the hose part is on the driver's side.....between the transmission and the base of the radiator.
1 end of each line has a re-usable clamp.....the other is a non-reusable clamp.
I remove the end that has a hose clamp......and go from there.
I don't feel as comfortable with removing the metal line at the tranny.......the hose is more "fool proof".
On the '96, the hose part is on the driver's side.....between the transmission and the base of the radiator.
1 end of each line has a re-usable clamp.....the other is a non-reusable clamp.
fy171
05-22-2008, 03:02 AM
Wiswind was the Magnefine filter 3/8 or 5/16
wiswind
05-22-2008, 07:03 AM
The transmission takes a 5/16" size.
The power steering would take a 3/8" size.
The power steering would take a 3/8" size.
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