99 Windstar Front Brake Rotors

How do I remove them as they seem to be rusted on. I removed the 3 torx bolts and used spray, heat and lead hammer. They will not budge. Anybody have a trick for removing the rotors?
Thanks
Steve

Well the first thing I'd do is spary the rotors, thru the torx bolt holes with PB blaster. Leave for about 8 hours. PB blaster has a way of wicking it's way in and will loosen after a certain amount of time. I wouldn't use any other type of penetrating spray. If you have already done this, my next question is, how much heat did you apply? Oxy acet is best as it gets lots hotter than propane or similar. If you did heat, did you immediately quench? The quench really breaks that rust bond.

Once you get 'em off, use a good amount of anti-seize to avoid this in the future.

Piper

I used Deep Creep, but only let it sit a couple hours.
Did use the oxy acet torch. The first time with out quenching. Just did with quenching and nothing.
Should I try to get PB blaster?
Also how hot can I get the rotor with the torch? Where should I heat it. Maybe around each lug and then quench or around the center hub? How many heat / quench cycles?
Thanks
Steve

Had the same problem on my 2000. The problem is that the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub become one after time. I ended up cutting a "pie slice" in the rotor with a cutting wheel. I still had a hard time after it was cut. I have heard that the trade secret is to blast the rotor at the hub with an air chisel if you have the means. You need to separate the rotor from the hub. I don't recommend a hammer as that might damage the hub/bearing. When I installed the new rotor on the hub, I coated the mating surfaces with anti-seize in case I have to replace rotors again.
Remember, Torx bolts are not required when repalcing rotors.
Good luck.

Okay I have finally been able to get them off with PB blaster, heat with quench and sledge hammer.
Should the rotor look like this when I finally get it off? LOL
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee2/SlimJimRD/On%20line%20picture/IMG_0443.jpg
Thanks for the help.
Steve

yep, anti-seize is your friend! Glad it came off. Just as a future reference I tend to head until the part is dull red, then immediately quench. You need enough heat to get the part, when quenched to contract quickly, to contract and break the rust bond. I usually try to heat the part that I'm replacing as the quench will alter the temper of the metal and has potential to make it brittler.

Glad to hear that you got the rotors off.

Piper

slimjimrd, i take it this is the first time taking them off? Mine came off much easier but mine is an '03. Glad you got it off.

what size torx? t-30 seems too sloppy and t-40 too large?

is it best to use a torx socket for the leverage or can you use a t-handle?

let the Justice Brothers JB/80 penetrant soak overnight so i will give it a go tonight after work to get the disc off. tough bugger

I hate to use a hammer on a rotor because the hub bearings can be damaged. But sometimes ya just hafta ... especially if you don't have a torch. I find the following helps protect the bearings and is pretty effective:

First do the overnight soaking with Blaster or Rust Buster ... be sure to soak everything about the rotor, including the wheel mounting bolts.

Rest the bottom edge of the rotor against a large rock or a heavy piece of metal ... such as an anvil, or old bench vise. Lower the car so that the spring is slightly compressed.

With a heavy bench hammer, strike downward on the top to the rotor several blows. This should loosen the rotor and not put the bearings at risk.

01 Windstar here:

Rookie question, how do you know when the rotors need replacing? Thickness? The wife is having brake issues (no grabbing or other indications). I've bled and have new pads as well. MC seems okay.

I'm not trying to split the thread, just wondering how to diagnose rotors.

personally I look at rotors as regular maintenance. When I do the pads I usually do rotors as well. They cost ~$35 each so it's not a ton of money. I like to do my vehicle repairs as a preventative maintenance measure; I hate working on cars in the winter. So, when every other fall comes, I usually renew the brakes on all 4's. Yes, according to Alldatadiy.com the specs are:
Specifications

Min Thickness
Front 0.9724 inch (24.70mm)
Rear 0.4094 inch (10.40mm)
Have I ever measured? Nope. Years ago they'd turn rotors to a smooth, true surface and reuse them. This costs more now and you're left with a thinner rotor (or razor as some call them!).

The other reason for a change is if the rotor is warped. This often occurs when some tech will attach the lug nuts with too much torque on one, not enough on another. Then you have a hard brake situation and bingo, warped rotor as evidenced by the "dub dub dub" which slows down in sound as you slow down in speed.

FWIW, my :2cents:

Piper

grizz3000,

You can take piper's approach, or you can also turn them if they are warped. My 2003 was warped after only about 40,000 miles. I took it to an autoparts store and they turned them for $12 each. Installed new pads and now the brakes are good again. The guy at the parts store told me that it still had at least 2 more turns before it becomes too thin.

So long as the brakes work and it's not warped, I'm going to keep getting them turned.

what kind of brake issues are you having? You mentioned no grabbing. That's not good at all. Are the rotors OEM?

I guess the thing I forgot to mention as well is that this van is my wife's kid mover and when I get the opportunity to do the work it's usually a Sunday afternoon or some night during the week. Having the van off the road for a day while the rotors are turned is a major PITA to our household so I tend to go with the "git er done" route. Having the rotor on hand before the work is reassurance. I think, now that we're discussing rotors, the next time I do the job I'll hold on to the ones I remove and get them turned..

Piper

Sorry, what I meant by no grabbing is that there is not 'sudden grabs' followed by 'no grabs'. Gosh, sometimes I sound silly explaning things.

Pedal travel seems normal (not soft, not hard). Just seems like it doesn't stop as 'firm' or as quick as it used to.

I'd check to make sure the sliders are lubed properly, travel is smooth, rotors not glazed, pads wearing evenly. The other thing to consider is when was the last time you did a full brake fluid flush? Brake fluid over time degrades and if it looks dark and coffee like I'd be doing that too. Front brakes do the majority of the vehicle braking but if the van seems to stop slower than before check the rears too. I had a siezed rear cyclinder and was only getting 1/2 of the shoes on 1 wheel working. There are other things that can affect stopping too. If you read the Monroe shock web info they state that replacing struts and shocks on your van at 80,000km is required for safe stopping. I just did this repair for other reasons and did notice a bit of an increase in stopping.

PIper