2000 Windstar Window molding
llcollins1999
03-30-2008, 08:42 AM
Both sides window moldings are falling off, I see no place for clips to hold them on. How do i keep them from falling off? Should I apoxy them on?
tartersauce
03-30-2008, 10:07 AM
Which parts are coming off? Which windows? The Rubber gasket that the window slides into? That can be glued with Rubber cement or "Gorilla Snot" Automotive term for Yellow Gasket glue. Comes in tube form but once dryed, you can still remove things if you ever had too.
If its the Black Plastic next to the door window, 3in black plastic - screws with rubber black chulk.
The tiny black plastic pieces around the windscreen? They are glued, Use the Snot above, Easy cleanup if you get it all over the windscreen.
Epoxy is perm.. Once cured its not coming off.. I wouldnt use it unless the part is broken Clip - Epoxyed back together.. Then install part Like OEM, not epoxy for future repairs...
If its the Black Plastic next to the door window, 3in black plastic - screws with rubber black chulk.
The tiny black plastic pieces around the windscreen? They are glued, Use the Snot above, Easy cleanup if you get it all over the windscreen.
Epoxy is perm.. Once cured its not coming off.. I wouldnt use it unless the part is broken Clip - Epoxyed back together.. Then install part Like OEM, not epoxy for future repairs...
llcollins1999
03-30-2008, 11:31 AM
Its the trim at the bottom of the window which has the rubber window seal in it
tartersauce
03-30-2008, 12:10 PM
Its the trim at the bottom of the window which has the rubber window seal in it
Yellow Gasket glue "Gorilla Snot stuff" Looks just like yellow snot and its in a tube. flexiable also like rubber cement.
That piece should have Metal teeth in the Groove that bites on the door.. Maybe they are rusted away.. The glue will still hold it tho..
Yellow Gasket glue "Gorilla Snot stuff" Looks just like yellow snot and its in a tube. flexiable also like rubber cement.
That piece should have Metal teeth in the Groove that bites on the door.. Maybe they are rusted away.. The glue will still hold it tho..
tripletdaddy
03-31-2008, 05:00 AM
Tartersauce, I have an excellent condition rubber weatherstripping seal that goes all the way around the door opening. At the top where it starts to slope down along the windshield is a mold joint that has a step to it, so when driving in a driving rain, it leaks. Any suggestions? I would think whatever I add has to be soft like the weatherstripping for a good seal? Gorilla snot, ha ha, that's good! Sounds like 3m weatherstripping sealant/adhesive.
tartersauce
03-31-2008, 07:29 AM
Tartersauce, I have an excellent condition rubber weatherstripping seal that goes all the way around the door opening. At the top where it starts to slope down along the windshield is a mold joint that has a step to it, so when driving in a driving rain, it leaks. Any suggestions? I would think whatever I add has to be soft like the weatherstripping for a good seal? Gorilla snot, ha ha, that's good! Sounds like 3m weatherstripping sealant/adhesive.
Gorilla snot,, hehe.. Yea the 3M WEATHERSTRIPPING STUFF lol
Its a shop name I guess.
About your door, The most common thing that made your door start leaking is someone locked the key in it, and they pryed the top open to get to the Power switch. Now the top of the door is bent a hair out, And you get a leak there. Check both doors, as you can roll down the window and bend the top of the door back into the correct spot.. Look Carefully, and use a string or strip of paper and slide it thru the jam as your looking for the non-seal area. If your missing a piece of rubber, you can get any of the rubbers made as I got one made for a trunk on a 72 olds before. Let me know.. Ill look at my door today and see if I see anything..
Gorilla snot,, hehe.. Yea the 3M WEATHERSTRIPPING STUFF lol
Its a shop name I guess.
About your door, The most common thing that made your door start leaking is someone locked the key in it, and they pryed the top open to get to the Power switch. Now the top of the door is bent a hair out, And you get a leak there. Check both doors, as you can roll down the window and bend the top of the door back into the correct spot.. Look Carefully, and use a string or strip of paper and slide it thru the jam as your looking for the non-seal area. If your missing a piece of rubber, you can get any of the rubbers made as I got one made for a trunk on a 72 olds before. Let me know.. Ill look at my door today and see if I see anything..
tartersauce
03-31-2008, 08:09 AM
Dont kill yourself tring to bend the top in a hair.. Use a small block of wood and place it in the jam and close the door on it. Then push on the top. It bends pretty easy.
Both of my doors
The windscreens metal edge sticks out more then that first corner of the door. 6 to 8 mm in passed the windscreens metal pillars edge on both doors. Like the door is in deeper then the front Pillar but as it goes down towards the fender they start getting flush and flush down on the fender and mirror.. If you understand that.
Both of my doors
The windscreens metal edge sticks out more then that first corner of the door. 6 to 8 mm in passed the windscreens metal pillars edge on both doors. Like the door is in deeper then the front Pillar but as it goes down towards the fender they start getting flush and flush down on the fender and mirror.. If you understand that.
tripletdaddy
03-31-2008, 08:18 AM
Tartersauce, I guess I didn't describe things well enough. The door is fine. The weatherstripping rubber seal is not. It is still in good, firm and cushiony condition. The problem is what I would describe as a manufacturing defect. The other front door seal is properly formed at the joint where the ends of the seal were fused together to make a continuous strip or it's a mold joint. The driver's side has a step or offset at this fuse point so that it leaves a gap against the door's inner surface. I've also noticed that it lays flatter than the other side, like the air was let out of it. I've actually tried bending the "fin" that the seal mounts on, hoping that it would force the seal to conform to the door better. Didn't do enough. So, as before, I'm looking for a way to add to or fill in the defect with material like the rubber seal. I've tried repairing it before, but it was hard to use something glue like that became rubbery and get a nice smooth, continous finish for a good seal. It also didn't last long. I considered peal and stick weatherstripping, but expected to have gaps at the ends of that, that would leak instead. Uhhhggg!!! :banghead:
tartersauce
03-31-2008, 08:25 AM
Let me go look at mine.. Both of my doors are perfect and the only joint is near the bottom of the slope of the door. Right where the mirror is??.. I think your gonna have to cut a hole in the bottom of your seal "Inside edge of" not the Outside edge, Enough of a slice to insert a peice of glued foam in there to match the height of the surrounding seal. Make the slice away from the damaged part and push in the foam with a wire etc.. Dont make the slice big, this way you can needle and thread it back together and use alot of snot as its slippery until dry...
You want to keep both sides of the seal the way they are.. Work in the inside of them, even if you have to spit them in half if its the Soild rubber wing there.
You want to keep both sides of the seal the way they are.. Work in the inside of them, even if you have to spit them in half if its the Soild rubber wing there.
tartersauce
03-31-2008, 08:56 AM
Make sure your door is closing enough in that spot too. Like I said above. The door isnt flush with the windscreen. Door is deeper then, And it should Squash that whole seal all the way around. Its not just a touch seal like the some of the upper doors strips are. It should be tight and it flattens out when the door is adjusted correctly. If you can take a photo of it..
If you tried to add something under it or on top of it, would just make two leaks near the edges of what you used. Its almost impos to heatgun rubber, as its melting point is to close to its burning point..
If you tried to add something under it or on top of it, would just make two leaks near the edges of what you used. Its almost impos to heatgun rubber, as its melting point is to close to its burning point..
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