security light intermedite cranking

Light comes on who knows when but it will happen the car won't crank at all.20 min later varooom and off we go.Wife is on my ass to get it fixed .Will putting a new ignition not the cylinder but the electrical part fix this problem?I've read some threads on this problem but not really sure what they replaced,The light will come on while driving and stay on when you stop shut off engine it might not come back on but some time later it won't start at all nothing.need to get part tomorrow and end this maddness.Thanks for all the help.Mitch

Sorry almost forgot somehting important its a 2001 chevy implala LS with the 3.8

Woe unto GM...

I have investigated this exact same problem with my 2003 Impala!

Now let me tell you that I have a lot of experience with Automotive electronics, engine control management and a degree in Computer Science.

This problem you are reporting is wide spread with this genre of vehicles...

It is most definitely a problem in the "Pass Lock" system.

The root cause evaluation that I performed over this past weekend
is the Gm used a very poor designed connector and connection which attaches to the ignition switch. The male connector block does not
fully seat in the female recepticle and they (GM) did not use gold
plated male and female (Pins and recievers). The body computer does
not adjust over time for connection oxidation and therefore does not compensate using software with the analog "Pass Lock" signal.

What is wrong with GM? Sorry to say, too much...

So now what can you do?

With this info. you can go to the dealer and make a scene...

Unfortunately, they will install a new Hall effect sensor on the ignition switch. This may correct the problem for a week, month or a few years.

Your problem is not permanently solved and it's too bad for you!

What I ended up doing is to manually solder the three wires (Yellow, White and Black) to the male pins of the ignition Hall effect sensor. Mr Goodwrench would not take the time to fix this problem correctly but they will take your money (Happily, I might add...).

Ok - So you want to give this repair a shot and learn a few thing along the way?

Many steps but really worth the time and effort!
1) Remove the plastic lower leg panel.
2) Remove both side dash panels (exposing 2 dash screws which are to be removed). Remove 2 screws above instrument cluster.
3) Lower the steering column.
4) Insert key in ignition and move shifter lever down to 1.
5) Remove the dash bezel (Check for one more screw on the lower dash right of the steering wheel.
6) Start prying carefully and the dash panel will release.
7) Remove the hazard blink connector from the panel.
8) Viola! The ignition switch is exposed. One problem, you
have to remove the metal leg support panel to remove the switch.
9) The leg support is mounted with 4 bolds. Look up behind the support
and you will see them. There are 2 access holes in the panel to remove 2 of the bolts. The other 2 bolts are removed from accessing the bottom of the panel.
10) Now remove the 2 bolts holding in the ignition switch.
11) Manuever the switch out of the dash to the left.
12) Release all of the connectors ( They look complicated but all you really have to do is to push on each release tab and the male connectors come out.
13) Ok - There is it in your hand... GM's big problem!
14) Insert you key in the switch and turn it to Ign.
15) Find the detent on the body of the switch. Hard to describe but it
is square recess and has a square you can push down with a small screw driver. Press this and pull out the metal ignition switch body out.
16) Now you can release the Pass Lock connector by pinching it by hand
from the switch body. (It has 3 wires on it yellow, white and black).
17) Look at the back of the metal switch body carefully and rotate with the key installed so the cylinder lines up with the release channel.
18) While lined up, push on the metal tab extending into the cylinder. With
accurate line up and full release of the tab, the cylinder will come out.
19) Cut the 3 Pass lock wires from under your dash. Leave about 5 inches from the end of the black connector. Probably will have to remove electrical tape too.
20) Now you can investigate the male Pass Lock connector cut from the dash and the female hall effect sensor in the metal switch body. It's a very bad design...
21) Remove one wire at a time from the female connector ( Push down on release tab with a tooth pick) and push the pin on to its male Hall effect receiving pin and solder the dang thing in place! Do this for the 3 wires and don't mess up with the orientation. Make diagrams if need be.
22) Secure the 3 solder joints with some shrink tubing.
23) Strip the 3 wires and tin the leads.
24) Reassemble the ignition switch assembly and rout the 3 wires through
the original Pass lock body opening.
25) Back under the dash, strip the 3 wires dangling and tin the leads.
26) Pre install 3 pieces of shring tubing on the 3 wires.
27) Lap solder the 3 wires matching the 3 colors (yellow white and black).
...don't mess this step up!
28) Slide the shrink tubing over the lap joints and shrink with heat.
29) Install all connectors back in the ignition switch.
30) Mount the ignition switch on its place using the 2 bolts.
31) Start the car... it should fire right up. If not, you have made a wiring error and it will be up to you to check things over. If the car starts, you have done what GM could not! Congratulations...
32) Put the dash back together starting with the metal kick panel.
33) Continue exactly reverse of the tear down.

Hope you enjoyed fixing something that GM cannot...

Mr Goodwrench, this is how your problem should be fixed, once and for all, but you are all not smart enough...

So sorry so sad...

Now I drive a Hyundai!

Regards,


Dr Zach.

I do remote starters on the side- and bypassing PasslockII is necessary to remote start-- so what I do in this case is PERMANENTLY bypass the PasslockII with a $7 bypass unit- basically a variable potentiometer- and never have to deal with the security light again--- I feel it is a much simpler solution-- 5 wires connected and you are done- and all you have to do is find the PasslockII wires from the ignition switch- at the switch or at the BCM.. The folks over at the12volt.com came help out as well.....I think it is much easier than to take all that stuff apart- and I no longer care about theft deterrent-- I have never heard anysay to me-- "Thank God- my GM theft deterrent saved the day" What they always say- is "that *&(*%^% security light is on again-- I wish I did not have theft deterrent" so I fix 'em up.....

so wait, i need a remote start to bypass the passlock? i'm confused! my car does the same damn thing! if i wait 30min the car starts? please help. i need directions on how to by pass this Passlock its drivin me crazy!

yeah yeah 3.8L 2002 crap impala! it was a nice car till it hit 125,000

I went and bought a new switch and hadnt had a problem since 159.00 bones though maybe that will help you also

what switch? ignition switch?

yes the ignition switch just buy the switch look at the above reply about soldering the wires it will get you to the part where the switch will come out and you'll put your key cylinder back in it.