trasmission fluid change

I'm planning a transmission fluid change in the next few months. So I checked around a few places like autozone,advanced auto,and pep boys and found no mercon for my 96 windstar 3.0. I saw wiswinds remarks on all windstars now using mercon V. Since I never used it before in my rebuilt transmission should I just drop the pan, change the filter, clean the pan,and buttom it all up, and add the appropriate amount of mercon V. Or does the old fluid which is mercon has to be all pumped out and replaced with the new mercon V. Van has 98k and closing on 2nd change after the rebuild.

It does not use Mercon V and Ford went to this fluid in 1998,not in 1996.Reuse the pan gasket,it reusable,says on the pan and Ford,GM are the smartest to do this.

from Wiswinds sticky at the top of the forum

TRANSMISSION FLUID:
FORD TSB # 06-14-4, which supercedes former TSB's, and many of my own posts in the past (that say to use only mercon, and not Mercon V in vehicles that say mercon)....states that MERCON V is now the transmission fluid (ATF) to use in all windstars. Mercon will not be licensed after July 1, 2007.
For this reason, you will see ATF labeled "for use in vehicles that specify Mercon or Mercon V".

Do not use Mercon SP in the Windstar as this fluid is for a different type of transmission.
This is also stated in TSB # 06-14-4

Change that fluid AT LEAST every 30K miles, or 21K miles for "severe service".
If you experience transmission issues such as slipping or shutter, a full fluid exchange is the way to go.
Some folks do a partial fluid change.....changing the fluid in the pan, on a regular basis, such as each oil change.
This method gets only about 1/2 of the total fluid changed, but doing this on a much more regular basis than the 30K mile interval, keeps the fluid and additives fresh.
HOWEVER, once you have a problem that may be fluid related, the full exchange is needed.
The FACTORY transmission pan gasket is a high quality reusable gasket......so handle it with care...and DO reuse it if possible as it will do a better job than the cork replacement gaskets.
I have pictures posted of how I do the fluid exchange with pan drop and filter change....including detailed pictures of that pesky filter seal that likes to stay stuck.

Anyone who has not read the sticky's should do it ASAP. Most of the common questions are answered there

I have some step by step pictures on the fluid change process in my pictures the first in the series is here.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1503284711011220610kYSGCI

I have used Mobil 1, available at AutoZone, and found it to be a very good fluid.
I dropped the pan....cleaned.....and then filled......and ran the new fluid through.
It is best to change all the fluid at least every 30K miles.
Although, otherwise, I would not worry about mixing the Mercon and Mercon V fluids.
The super important thing is to change the fluid.

Wiswind - is there a given torquing ORDER for tightening all the bolts back on the tranny pan? I'm driving myself crazy over here without my damn CD-ROM that stopped working on me and all I have is this damn paper manual which takes forever to fumble through. I cannot for the life of me find the section of the manual that talks about tranny fluid change. I went to Ford and confirmed that I should apply light torque (8-12lbs) when retightening the pan bolts, but I always thought there was a certain order in which to tighten for stuff like this. Thanks again!

tranny pan....I don't know right off.....I would finger tighten....then go something like opposite sides.....not 1,2,3,4 around the pan one bolt to the next........but alternate across the pan....... Then once done....maybe around the pan to check to be sure that you did not miss one.

Thats actually what I did today. Criss-cross tighten slowly with the small ratchet I have and once around again to make sure it was tight. It was curious to me that the center most bolts on either side of the pan seemed like they could continue turning. 1 of these center bolts was the missing one. They are not stripped, but I just attribute this to the fact that this was where the fluid was seeping out on both sides. I wiped it all up and with any hope it'll stay sealed. I'll check later today cause it seems to leak just from sitting there without even having been run.

Hi All

I second Wisind's and others' comments on changing the tranny oil regularly. I unfortunately lost my 'Star to an accident, but I was at almost 160K having never had a single issue with the transmission. One thing I have learned more recently is that by using a hand pump with a hose down the fill pipe first, you can remove most of the fluid from the pan before pulling it keeping the mess down. Also, you can change out fluid (only what the pan holds of course) between filter changes. Here is a pump I have, you can find them elsewhere.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/g2039.aspx

You could also try putting a small dab of lock-tite on the bolt thats loose so it won't back out on you. Just be sure to use a small amount on it as it will make it difficult to remove in the future

I'm planning a transmission fluid change in the next few months. So I checked around a few places like autozone,advanced auto,and pep boys and found no mercon for my 96 windstar 3.0. I saw wiswinds remarks on all windstars now using mercon V. Since I never used it before in my rebuilt transmission should I just drop the pan, change the filter, clean the pan,and buttom it all up, and add the appropriate amount of mercon V. Or does the old fluid which is mercon has to be all pumped out and replaced with the new mercon V. Van has 98k and closing on 2nd change after the rebuild. Anyone out there can give me an estimate on a no# of qts it needs when I need to drop the pan.

Wiswind - is there a given torquing ORDER for tightening all the bolts back on the tranny pan? I'm driving myself crazy over here without my damn CD-ROM that stopped working on me and all I have is this damn paper manual which takes forever to fumble through. I cannot for the life of me find the section of the manual that talks about tranny fluid change. I went to Ford and confirmed that I should apply light torque (8-12lbs) when retightening the pan bolts, but I always thought there was a certain order in which to tighten for stuff like this. Thanks again!seacherrr.. how many qts did you take out of your pan?

Rotorman, I recently did this operation and I have a guess for you: about 6 qts (I think). It varies with your model ... what kind of external cooler you have ... how level the van is when you drain the tranny ... if you change out the filter or not ...etc, etc,

To avoid overfilling, you can pour up your drained fluid into an old gallon water jug for an estimate. Then refill a bit on the low side ... topping off when the tranny is warmed up.

How come I haven't heard anyone talk about doing a full fluid flush and replacement? And I DO NOT mean the power flush. It seems to me doing the trans pump, pump out via cooler line, drop pan, drain, change filter and clean up, add fluid until pumps clean, reconnect cooler line and then top off would be the better way to go. With this method, much more fluid is needed, but you have removed ALL of the old fluid and washed out anything unwanted. Off hand it requires the full capacity refill volume and at least one more gallon. So, 5 gallons at least maybe. There are posts that detail this better.

Tripletdaddy, you are right ... there are posts where the self-flush procedure is discussed and outlined. In fact, it is the procedure outlined in the Ford shop manual. And it is the procedure that I've begun to use "usually" ... but there are times when you need to drop the pan for whatever reason (an inspection of a reman tranny for example) and the short-method may make sense then. Depends.

I find 15 qts is sufficient for the self-flush procedure. But I always include dropping the pan for a wipe-out and magnet cleaning. The filter gets changed based on how much sludge is in the pan.

Tip#1: It takes a little extra rigging ... but by dropping both hoses to the tranny and "crossing" ... it is possible to back-flush the external coolers during the self-flush procedure. This should leave the coolers even cleaner ....

Tip#2: I haven't completed the task, but I'm installing a toggle switch in the cabin that will bring the radiator fan hi-speed relay "in". This is to be used during stop-and-go city driving and/or trailer pulling. Hopefully this will help with the tranny fluid cooling.

Tripletdaddy, you are right ... there are posts where the self-flush procedure is discussed and outlined. In fact, it is the procedure outlined in the Ford shop manual. And it is the procedure that I've begun to use "usually" ... but there are times when you need to drop the pan for whatever reason (an inspection of a reman tranny for example) and the short-method may make sense then. Depends.

I find 15 qts is sufficient for the self-flush procedure. But I always include dropping the pan for a wipe-out and magnet cleaning. The filter gets changed based on how much sludge is in the pan.

Tip#1: It takes a little extra rigging ... but by dropping both hoses to the tranny and "crossing" ... it is possible to back-flush the external coolers during the self-flush procedure. This should leave the coolers even cleaner ....

Tip#2: I haven't completed the task, but I'm installing a toggle switch in the cabin that will bring the radiator fan hi-speed relay "in". This is to be used during stop-and-go city driving and/or trailer pulling. Hopefully this will help with the tranny fluid cooling. Iwant to thank you all for your suggestions. I'm leaning towards busboy4's Idea since I do have a siphon pump. All I need is a 6-7ft hose with a inside diameter 7/16th's . The rest of the parts will come from Rock Auto. Just waiting for temp's to go in the mid 50's. Again thanks for all of your help in this forum.

How come I haven't heard anyone talk about doing a full fluid flush and replacement? And I DO NOT mean the power flush. It seems to me doing the trans pump, pump out via cooler line, drop pan, drain, change filter and clean up, add fluid until pumps clean, reconnect cooler line and then top off would be the better way to go. With this method, much more fluid is needed, but you have removed ALL of the old fluid and washed out anything unwanted. Off hand it requires the full capacity refill volume and at least one more gallon. So, 5 gallons at least maybe. There are posts that detail this better.

Can you provide the procedure in detail? I have never done it before and I am about to do it next weekend. I plan on changing the filter too because I don't think it has been changed before. I am not familiar with the transmission at all, so any help would be great. Thanks in advance.

I provided the pictures and some words to go with it.....for this in the link that I provided .......here it is again.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1503284711011220610kYSGCI

With my pan drop method....I used 15 quarts of fluid......total system capacity is 12.25 quarts.

The black "dust" that you see me wipe down is primarily clutch dust.
Now I add 6 ounces of Auto RX about 1000 miles before doing the fluid exchange.....the hope is to remove the deposits from on up inside the unit.....like the solenoid valves....etc.
I got the Auto RX from www.auto-rx.com and followed the application instructions for transmissions.
I am NOT a big fan of other additives to the ATF....unless at the direction of someone much more knowlegable than me.......for my particular application.