possible parasitic drain source?

So, 2 days in a row, after a ~3 hour park, my wife's van has needed to be jump started. FYI, 2000 3.8 LX, I've replaced the starter, battery, alternator, serpentine belt 3 months ago due to general wear so the ignition system is sound. The driver's door solenoid for the lock is shot, only periodically locking or unlocking. As well, the brake pressure switch is slightly damp, not dripping. I have both of these replacement components to install on the weekend. Last night I put my meter on the battery and the draw was ~450mA for the first 30 minutes after key off, then in sleep mode it was about 30 mA. Very acceptable draws according to the FSM. Soooooo, I'm wondering what could cause this draw 2 days in a row.

Do you think the brake pressure switch or door lock solenoid could do this? Maybe there is just some other corrosion thing happening but truthfully I thought for sure I'd see a much bigger draw on the battery than I did.

Thoughts?

Piper

I've read of folks having problems with the rear wiper not parking properly and causing a drain.

Have you checked the battery voltage before jumping? Sometimes the power isolation relays can get very "voltage critical" and prevent cranking ... even when the battery is not that low. I had to install a jumper wire to the starter solenoid to get things going before finally clearing up the relay problem.

And sometimes a battery, even a new one, can just be crappy and not up to the task ... so checking battery voltages can shed some insight.

the (new) battery was my 1st thought. So, after the 2nd time this happened I went and had it tested and it passed with flying colours. It's got 720ish CCA so that's pleanty.

Can you elaborate on the power isolation relay?

Pipe

When I was having a no-crank situation once (luckily at home), I grabbed the voltmeter and started checking around in the underhood fuse/relay box. (By the way, when starting was attempted ... all the meters on the dash dipped.) Most of the fuse-tops back-points checked at full battery voltage ... then I found some that were a volt or two low. I don't now remember which fuses were low ... it was a few years ago .. but they led me to one of the SSP (Switched System Power) relays and also the Power Control Module relay (this last one has failed for me several times since ... its now my go-to fix for "no cranking").

Mine is a '99. The SSP's were later eliminated ... but I don't know what year.

I wouldn't think the door solenoid gets power all the time since I would think it only gets it when the door switch is pushed or like. The bps on early models was incorrectly wired so that it is hot all the time. I'd check that just to be safe. Pull it and see if you don't have drained battery. Is the 450 mA before sleep mode normal? I'd still try pulling fuses to see what is pulling so much. I'd be suspicious that it doesn't stay asleep or it doesn't always go asleep. :2cents:

according to alldatadiy.com for my year the 450 mA is normal for the 1st 30 minutes. Then is dips to ~30mA. I stood in the freezing northern Ontario cold (thank God the garage installs this July) for 30 minutes TWICE to watch it go into sleep mode. The ~30mA is actually a max draw, only momentarily mind you, when the "theft" light on the dash blinks. When it's off, the draw is about 15 mA. So, it's not that that is causing the drain. I'm using a digital Fluke 177 meter so I'm confident that the readings are right. Funny thing is, the van's been fine for the past 3 days now. I'm of half a brain that maybe there was a big splashing puddle with road salt or some sort of weak conductor that got onto the starter and was grounding out the lead or something.

This is going onto the "I dunno" repair board.

Piper

I replaced the brake pressure sensor, the driver's lock solenoid and, AND a rear window brake light bulb yesterday. Somehow the rear brake bulb makes me think it was the culprit. I don't know why but just this gut feeling. The van's been with me all weekend and so far not problems w battery drain.

Piper

Yessir! I now remember another poster (maybe another forum) having excess drain due to a lamp bulb.

Good work!

Possible that your brake on/off switch was stuck in the on position, another windstar issue. Happened to me, the brake light sockets were all deformed slightly from the extra heat. Removed & disassembled switch, cleaned and slightly bent one of the contacts.

actually I didn't mention it but I did pull apart the BOO switch. It looked fine and had no signs of wear. I couldn't believe it really as I can't imagine how many times the switch has cycled.

As I said to my wife, I've had the van the whole weekend and couldn't get it to have any problems at all. I'm leaving it to her to give it the "true" test of problem solved. How is it that our wives can cause car problems to just jump!!!

Piper

Maybe SHE left the dome lights on:grinyes: Thats what I accused my wife of when our van battery was dead, ended up being a parasitic drain through the remanufactured alternator I installed. Was drawing 4.5 amps with engine off, bad diode in the rectifier/regulator assy I guess.

pull fuse 6 for storage, I think its #6.. Its in the manual.
Finding a draw, Fluke on Draw between the neg and neg batt terminal.
Make sure you dont go over your rated Fluke Fuse that is installed or you will blow it. Pull each fuse one at a time. Inside and under the hood.

even with fuse 6 out i think you get 55 days or so on a good battery New Im sure!! not used.