headlight problem
newyorker1
02-16-2008, 06:13 PM
2000 ford windstar S.E.L, the problem is the headlight switch its not working i think. when i start the van the headlights and parking and dash lights come on. when i shut the van off the headlights go off but the parking lights stay on and the dash lights stay on to and wont turn off with the switch and the dash makes a dinging sound like when you leave the lights on. so i pulled the switch out and disconnected it, and the lights come on when i start the car and go off when i turn off the car. ford has the switch for $80. i just want to make sure this is the problem.
tripletdaddy
02-17-2008, 02:49 AM
Did you say that even after removing the main light switch, the lights still come on when you start it? Do you have auto lamps, they come on on their own when it is dark enough outside? That sure sounds like that's what you have. It didn't occur to me until after looking at a bunch of schematics. I'll include the rest if you don't have them. With the engine on, can you turn off the lights with the main switch?
I looked at the wiring schematics for your vehicle, and the lights/light switch do not get their power from anything related to the ignition switch. All the the power to the light switch is always to it, no matter what position the key is, engine on or off. BUT, if you have an antitheft system or a remote entry, that might be the problem. I wouldn't rush to get a switch. Do you have a multimeter? You need one that has ohms or continuity. Test across the terminals and jiggle the switch to see if it has problems. If you go to Autozone.com, they have wiring schematics that might help you. It is found in the repair info, vehicle repair guide , chasis electrical, wiring diagrams, figures 7, 8 and 9. This will get you there directly.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/3a/bb/0900823d801d3abb/repairInfoPages.htm
I was disappointed that they have three differing diagrams. One shows nothing that would influence your lights like that. One shows the GEM but not the anti theft tied in. I'm not sure why the gem is tied in. I know it is used to control the wipers. The third has the antitheft and the auto lights.
I'm going to run this by someone on another forum to see what he knows.
I looked at the wiring schematics for your vehicle, and the lights/light switch do not get their power from anything related to the ignition switch. All the the power to the light switch is always to it, no matter what position the key is, engine on or off. BUT, if you have an antitheft system or a remote entry, that might be the problem. I wouldn't rush to get a switch. Do you have a multimeter? You need one that has ohms or continuity. Test across the terminals and jiggle the switch to see if it has problems. If you go to Autozone.com, they have wiring schematics that might help you. It is found in the repair info, vehicle repair guide , chasis electrical, wiring diagrams, figures 7, 8 and 9. This will get you there directly.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/3a/bb/0900823d801d3abb/repairInfoPages.htm
I was disappointed that they have three differing diagrams. One shows nothing that would influence your lights like that. One shows the GEM but not the anti theft tied in. I'm not sure why the gem is tied in. I know it is used to control the wipers. The third has the antitheft and the auto lights.
I'm going to run this by someone on another forum to see what he knows.
newyorker1
02-17-2008, 08:41 AM
there are no light sensors on the van, just controlled by the switch.the van has a antitheft system{stock} and remote entry system{stock}. just tried this now:got into van engine off, with everthing connected the switch is in off position dash lights are on and dings and parking lights are on, cannot turn off at switch. can turn headlights on and off.headlight switch unplugged at dash..headlights and parking lights and dash lights are off..start van the headlights and parking lights and dash come on, shut off van the headlights and parking lights and dash go off. i do have a mulitester but how do i test the switch it has 6 pins in it, which ones do i test. and thanks for your help.
newyorker1
02-17-2008, 06:37 PM
sorry for the bump, but i really need help with this one/
tripletdaddy
02-18-2008, 01:50 AM
Ok, you are certain you have no auto lights, just manual. And you have anti theft and remote entry. I thought I asked before, but you didn't answer, this is important, if you disconnect your main light switch and the lights remain on, than it's not the switch that's the problem. Test this first. Be sure your hot wires can't ground out loosing fuses.
Another test to eliminate the light switch is to pull fuses K in the engine compartment killing everything with lights (headlights) and then some. To isolate things return fuse K and pull fuse 11 inside killing all other exterior and interior and dash lights. You would have to determine the fuse for your antitheft system and remote entry to test them.
The sequence you gave of lights off, then on, engine on and off, etc,etc. When you began the sequence of events, were the lights on before you even opened the car door? At the end you said all the lights were off. When do they come back on?
Even without those answers, I'm suspicious of your antitheft system, not your light switch. When the antitheft is active, does it turn on the lights at all at any time normally? Does the remote key turn on the lights on at any time normally? I would try to disarm your antitheft system pulling a fuse or whatever else your owners manual says to do and see if the light problem stops. If no change, I would also try to disarm the keyless entry if it influences the lights any.
On your main light switch, when you had it out, did you notice if the terminals were labled, like B1, B2, B3, R, H? From what little I can tell in the schematics, B2 goes to R the dash and cluster lights, B1 goes to H the headlights. There may be other controlled terminals on you switch that aren't used as you don't have auto lights. I also don't think B3 is used either, which is an input terminal. Unfortunately, I could not find a schematic that should the pin locations for the running lights.
Another test to eliminate the light switch is to pull fuses K in the engine compartment killing everything with lights (headlights) and then some. To isolate things return fuse K and pull fuse 11 inside killing all other exterior and interior and dash lights. You would have to determine the fuse for your antitheft system and remote entry to test them.
The sequence you gave of lights off, then on, engine on and off, etc,etc. When you began the sequence of events, were the lights on before you even opened the car door? At the end you said all the lights were off. When do they come back on?
Even without those answers, I'm suspicious of your antitheft system, not your light switch. When the antitheft is active, does it turn on the lights at all at any time normally? Does the remote key turn on the lights on at any time normally? I would try to disarm your antitheft system pulling a fuse or whatever else your owners manual says to do and see if the light problem stops. If no change, I would also try to disarm the keyless entry if it influences the lights any.
On your main light switch, when you had it out, did you notice if the terminals were labled, like B1, B2, B3, R, H? From what little I can tell in the schematics, B2 goes to R the dash and cluster lights, B1 goes to H the headlights. There may be other controlled terminals on you switch that aren't used as you don't have auto lights. I also don't think B3 is used either, which is an input terminal. Unfortunately, I could not find a schematic that should the pin locations for the running lights.
newyorker1
02-18-2008, 08:17 AM
Ok, you are certain you have no auto lights, just manual. And you have anti theft and remote entry. I thought I asked before, but you didn't answer, this is important, if you disconnect your main light switch and the lights remain on, than it's not the switch that's the problem. Test this first. Be sure your hot wires can't ground out loosing fuses.
Another test to eliminate the light switch is to pull fuses K in the engine compartment killing everything with lights (headlights) and then some. To isolate things return fuse K and pull fuse 11 inside killing all other exterior and interior and dash lights. You would have to determine the fuse for your antitheft system and remote entry to test them.
The sequence you gave of lights off, then on, engine on and off, etc,etc. When you began the sequence of events, were the lights on before you even opened the car door? At the end you said all the lights were off. When do they come back on?
Even without those answers, I'm suspicious of your antitheft system, not your light switch. When the antitheft is active, does it turn on the lights at all at any time normally? Does the remote key turn on the lights on at any time normally? I would try to disarm your antitheft system pulling a fuse or whatever else your owners manual says to do and see if the light problem stops. If no change, I would also try to disarm the keyless entry if it influences the lights any.
On your main light switch, when you had it out, did you notice if the terminals were labled, like B1, B2, B3, R, H? From what little I can tell in the schematics, B2 goes to R the dash and cluster lights, B1 goes to H the headlights. There may be other controlled terminals on you switch that aren't used as you don't have auto lights. I also don't think B3 is used either, which is an input terminal. Unfortunately, I could not find a schematic that should the pin locations for the running lights.
thanks for your reply,
this is whats happening now: van is off, headlight switch is plugged in, parking lights and dash lights are on, cannot turn off at switch. must unplug switch to turn off parking lights and dash lights.
van is started:{headlight switch is still unplugged} headlights and parking lights and dash lights are on,i can turn off headlights at switch, parking lights and dash lights stay on.
van is turned off: headlights and parking lights and dash lights turn off.
headlight switch is plugged back in{with van off}: parking lights and dash lights come bach on,the lights are on "dinging" chimes can be heard. lights Cannot be turned off at all.
removed switch: has no markings on it at all.
antitheft system: when armed no lights flash, when using keyless entry unlocking doors, interior lights come on ok when unlocking doors, when starting van interior lights go off.
Fuses: no K fuse found in van. will remove headlight fuses.
"Be sure your hot wires can't ground out loosing fuses", This i dont know how to do.
thanks
Another test to eliminate the light switch is to pull fuses K in the engine compartment killing everything with lights (headlights) and then some. To isolate things return fuse K and pull fuse 11 inside killing all other exterior and interior and dash lights. You would have to determine the fuse for your antitheft system and remote entry to test them.
The sequence you gave of lights off, then on, engine on and off, etc,etc. When you began the sequence of events, were the lights on before you even opened the car door? At the end you said all the lights were off. When do they come back on?
Even without those answers, I'm suspicious of your antitheft system, not your light switch. When the antitheft is active, does it turn on the lights at all at any time normally? Does the remote key turn on the lights on at any time normally? I would try to disarm your antitheft system pulling a fuse or whatever else your owners manual says to do and see if the light problem stops. If no change, I would also try to disarm the keyless entry if it influences the lights any.
On your main light switch, when you had it out, did you notice if the terminals were labled, like B1, B2, B3, R, H? From what little I can tell in the schematics, B2 goes to R the dash and cluster lights, B1 goes to H the headlights. There may be other controlled terminals on you switch that aren't used as you don't have auto lights. I also don't think B3 is used either, which is an input terminal. Unfortunately, I could not find a schematic that should the pin locations for the running lights.
thanks for your reply,
this is whats happening now: van is off, headlight switch is plugged in, parking lights and dash lights are on, cannot turn off at switch. must unplug switch to turn off parking lights and dash lights.
van is started:{headlight switch is still unplugged} headlights and parking lights and dash lights are on,i can turn off headlights at switch, parking lights and dash lights stay on.
van is turned off: headlights and parking lights and dash lights turn off.
headlight switch is plugged back in{with van off}: parking lights and dash lights come bach on,the lights are on "dinging" chimes can be heard. lights Cannot be turned off at all.
removed switch: has no markings on it at all.
antitheft system: when armed no lights flash, when using keyless entry unlocking doors, interior lights come on ok when unlocking doors, when starting van interior lights go off.
Fuses: no K fuse found in van. will remove headlight fuses.
"Be sure your hot wires can't ground out loosing fuses", This i dont know how to do.
thanks
newyorker1
02-18-2008, 10:38 AM
I JUST FIXED IT, IT WAS THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH ALL THE TIME.
my neighbor has a 2000 windstar and my other neighbor has a 1999 windstar i went over to see him and asked him can i take out his headlight switch, he said ok, i then put it in my van and it worked. it turns the headlight and parking lights and dash lights on and off. and when i start the van no lights come on until i turn them on. :rofl: :loser:
Thanks to everybody for your help
p.s. i gave him my old switch and saved 80 bucks...lol
my neighbor has a 2000 windstar and my other neighbor has a 1999 windstar i went over to see him and asked him can i take out his headlight switch, he said ok, i then put it in my van and it worked. it turns the headlight and parking lights and dash lights on and off. and when i start the van no lights come on until i turn them on. :rofl: :loser:
Thanks to everybody for your help
p.s. i gave him my old switch and saved 80 bucks...lol
tripletdaddy
02-19-2008, 12:12 AM
Glad you were able to confirm you had a bad switch and not something more elusive and complicated. I think I over analized your problem. For some reason I mistakenly thought you were still getting power to the lights that stayed on even with the switch pulled. That's why I was sending you in those directions. It definitely does sound like you have a shorted switch. Before you go to your dealer for your new switch, have you checked your local parts stores and internet supliers and ebay? You may save a fair bit. There are several ford internet parts dealers. A bone yard one would cost even less.
What I meant by "Be sure your hot wires can't ground out loosing fuses", either pull the battery ground or tape over the hot wires to the switch so they won't ground out in your dash and cause you to loose fuses.
What I meant by "Be sure your hot wires can't ground out loosing fuses", either pull the battery ground or tape over the hot wires to the switch so they won't ground out in your dash and cause you to loose fuses.
newyorker1
02-19-2008, 02:00 PM
Glad you were able to confirm you had a bad switch and not something more elusive and complicated. I think I over analized your problem. For some reason I mistakenly thought you were still getting power to the lights that stayed on even with the switch pulled. That's why I was sending you in those directions. It definitely does sound like you have a shorted switch. Before you go to your dealer for your new switch, have you checked your local parts stores and internet supliers and ebay? You may save a fair bit. There are several ford internet parts dealers. A bone yard one would cost even less.
What I meant by "Be sure your hot wires can't ground out loosing fuses", either pull the battery ground or tape over the hot wires to the switch so they won't ground out in your dash and cause you to loose fuses.
thanks tripletdaddy for your help.
What I meant by "Be sure your hot wires can't ground out loosing fuses", either pull the battery ground or tape over the hot wires to the switch so they won't ground out in your dash and cause you to loose fuses.
thanks tripletdaddy for your help.
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