windstar drum brakes

ok this is not my first brake job. the van failed inspection after the ole lady left the e brake on and toasted brake shoes. i changed shoes as any other vehicle. auto adjuster set all the way in in. put on drum spins fine. as i put on wheel and tighten lugs cant move wheel. take off wheel put lugs back on same thing. thinKing drums are warped i go get two new ones... same thing. any ideas, wasted a day and driving me crazy

Bad wheel cylinder.

How do I know....because the exact thing happened to me about a month ago. After fighting this for an hour or so, I had the wife press the break pedal while I held the shoes with my hands. Only one side of the wheel cylinder was working. The other was frozen almost in the fully seated position, but not quite.

Be sure to completely flush the brake lines BEFORE putting on the new cylinder because it's probably quite ugly. And you might as well replace both sides...I did. As I recall, they only cost $12 each.

Good luck!!!

Bad wheel cylinder.

How do I know....because the exact thing happened to me about a month ago. After fighting this for an hour or so, I had the wife press the break pedal while I held the shoes with my hands. Only one side of the wheel cylinder was working. The other was frozen almost in the fully seated position, but not quite.

Be sure to completely flush the brake lines BEFORE putting on the new cylinder because it's probably quite ugly. And you might as well replace both sides...I did. As I recall, they only cost $12 each.

Good luck!!!
Yes, exactly the same for me, on both side, frozen on one side of the cylinder; get 2 new cylinder, this will cure the problem.

I have pictures of my rear drum brake job posted in the pictures that the link in my signature takes you to.
In case you are wondering if you put things together correctly.
It does NOT show replacement of the wheel cylinder.
I changed the one on the driver's side when it developed a leak.
I plan to change the other side.......in the spring.....and hopefully get some pictures then.

Take note of the fact that the self adjusters are different from side to side. Left side is marked with a "L", right with a "R".
I also strongly recommend a hardware "kit" when doing rear brakes.
Although, if you did not use one....and everything is in place, and working fine, may not be worth bothering with.

When I replaced my wheel cylinder....I did not disassemble everything, I was able to pull the shoes back from the grooves on the wheel cylinder enough to remove the old one.....and then pull them back to install the new one.
In the process, I bumped the sensor for the ABS....and it was slightly touching the exciter ring (big gear teeth).....made quite the sound when I drove the vehicle.....so a trip back in to re-adjust the sensor was in order.

Also, when I turned the nut on the brake line to take the brake line off....the whole brake line turned.......which it should not.
The nut is supposed to turn freely on the brake line......so some PB Blaster on that spot may be needed to work it free.

thank you for all of the replies. i will be changing them today.

before you go spend a dollar, check and see if the emergency brake is released all the way.
Due to the fact they were left on or even put on for that matter would lead me to rusted/frozen cables causing an issue.
If you dont use the e-brakes every day, dont use them at all.
Just because the inside is free doesnt mean the cable is not pulling on the strut rod.
This would give the same senerio as the wheel cylinder being frozen. Not that it isnt, by all means check and make sure the cylinder pushes in on both sides.
Just the e-brake thing makes me think this is the issue.
You may need to go as far as loosining the adjustment nut whee the two cables meet one.
Try and pull/pry out on the cable at the backing plate. if one side frees up and the other one wont go on, then loosen the adjusting nut, pull/pry out the other cable and you should be good to go.
Alot of people never think the emergency brake being partially on would cause this issue.

I checked the e brake and wheel cylinders. the wheel cylinders were the problem. at $8.99 each (napa)it was a quick easy fix. i appreciate all replies.

To anyone needing to bleed the brakes or just add fluid. you look at the master cylinder and think how the f..k am i going to get the fluid in there with out getting it all over the place. so you think ill take the cowl off.... f that. i buy brake fluid in the big bottles but it may work with a small one. i took an oil pump used to fill the lower unit on a boat and tighten it on the bottle and just hold the hose slightly in the opening and pump the fluid in. works like a champ. no mess no removal of parts. be sure to wipe the front of the resorvoir off so you can see the fluid level line. and be sure the pump and hose are clean.

good idea on the fill problem. I have a turkey baster just for brake fluid that also works very well.

I clean around the master cylinder fill cap, remove cap.
Then I remove the cap on the bottle of brake fluid....remove foil seal on bottle......and re-install the cap on the bottle.

Then I manipulate the bottle back next to the master cylinder fill location.
I then remove the cap from the brake fluid bottle.....and tip the bottle to fill the master cylinder.

I re-cap the brake fluid bottle, and manipulate it back out.
Finally, I put the cap back onto the master cylinder.

This works with the small bottles as well as the large bottles.

Took me longer to type this than it does to do it...which is why I prefer doing to talking about it.