Knock sensor for 95 LT1
95ImpalaSS
01-30-2008, 12:30 PM
What is the differance in part numbers for Knock sensors?
I have part # 10456126 Installed on my engine, but broken.
Avail part # 15762437 which is 213-96
1995 CHEVROLET IMPALA SS V8 5.7L 350cid GAS FI N Engine VIN = P
Avail part # 10456207which is 213-266
All of these are for LT1's, just wondering what the differnace was.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 1995 Chevy Impala SS 5.7L V8 with VIN = P
I'm replacing 5.7L with 383/440 from Golen and need the KS I'm thinking.
Thanks for any replys....
Scott
I have part # 10456126 Installed on my engine, but broken.
Avail part # 15762437 which is 213-96
1995 CHEVROLET IMPALA SS V8 5.7L 350cid GAS FI N Engine VIN = P
Avail part # 10456207which is 213-266
All of these are for LT1's, just wondering what the differnace was.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 1995 Chevy Impala SS 5.7L V8 with VIN = P
I'm replacing 5.7L with 383/440 from Golen and need the KS I'm thinking.
Thanks for any replys....
Scott
j cAT
01-30-2008, 03:20 PM
What is the differance in part numbers for Knock sensors?
I have part # 10456126 Installed on my engine, but broken.
Avail part # 15762437 which is 213-96
1995 CHEVROLET IMPALA SS V8 5.7L 350cid GAS FI N Engine VIN = P
Avail part # 10456207which is 213-266
All of these are for LT1's, just wondering what the differnace was.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 1995 Chevy Impala SS 5.7L V8 with VIN = P
I'm replacing 5.7L with 383/440 from Golen and need the KS I'm thinking.
Thanks for any replys....
Scott
94-95 impala use different knock sensor than 96 impala.go to rock auto to check for correct # or ac delco to be sure . i would not use after market parts here. why is the knock sensors bad. there are two.
I have part # 10456126 Installed on my engine, but broken.
Avail part # 15762437 which is 213-96
1995 CHEVROLET IMPALA SS V8 5.7L 350cid GAS FI N Engine VIN = P
Avail part # 10456207which is 213-266
All of these are for LT1's, just wondering what the differnace was.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 1995 Chevy Impala SS 5.7L V8 with VIN = P
I'm replacing 5.7L with 383/440 from Golen and need the KS I'm thinking.
Thanks for any replys....
Scott
94-95 impala use different knock sensor than 96 impala.go to rock auto to check for correct # or ac delco to be sure . i would not use after market parts here. why is the knock sensors bad. there are two.
j cAT
01-30-2008, 03:28 PM
What is the differance in part numbers for Knock sensors?
I have part # 10456126 Installed on my engine, but broken.
Avail part # 15762437 which is 213-96
1995 CHEVROLET IMPALA SS V8 5.7L 350cid GAS FI N Engine VIN = P
Avail part # 10456207which is 213-266
All of these are for LT1's, just wondering what the differnace was.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 1995 Chevy Impala SS 5.7L V8 with VIN = P
I'm replacing 5.7L with 383/440 from Golen and need the KS I'm thinking.
....
Thanks for any replys....
Scott
you are supposed to use the 15762437 gm or 21396 ac delco........ The sensor for the 96 impala is different. The sensor you have is for 95 4.3l engine how did that get in there?
if you replace the engine they should supply the correct sensors
I have part # 10456126 Installed on my engine, but broken.
Avail part # 15762437 which is 213-96
1995 CHEVROLET IMPALA SS V8 5.7L 350cid GAS FI N Engine VIN = P
Avail part # 10456207which is 213-266
All of these are for LT1's, just wondering what the differnace was.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a 1995 Chevy Impala SS 5.7L V8 with VIN = P
I'm replacing 5.7L with 383/440 from Golen and need the KS I'm thinking.
....
Thanks for any replys....
Scott
you are supposed to use the 15762437 gm or 21396 ac delco........ The sensor for the 96 impala is different. The sensor you have is for 95 4.3l engine how did that get in there?
if you replace the engine they should supply the correct sensors
95ImpalaSS
01-30-2008, 04:16 PM
you are supposed to use the 15762437 gm or 21396 ac delco........ The sensor for the 96 impala is different. The sensor you have is for 95 4.3l engine how did that get in there?
if you replace the engine they should supply the correct sensors
Thanks j cAT
I thought those were the ones I was suppose to use.
How they got in there? I have no idea. Came with the car @ 51,000 miles.
The ones in there got damaged when 5 rods came out the bottom end. :icon16:
They are dented and bent, reason I want to put new for the new engine. :sunglasse
It has been a project I tell you. Not an easy just bolt'er on in. lol
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d75/trixxr/Engin9.jpg
Thanks again for confirming correct part number for me.
Scott
if you replace the engine they should supply the correct sensors
Thanks j cAT
I thought those were the ones I was suppose to use.
How they got in there? I have no idea. Came with the car @ 51,000 miles.
The ones in there got damaged when 5 rods came out the bottom end. :icon16:
They are dented and bent, reason I want to put new for the new engine. :sunglasse
It has been a project I tell you. Not an easy just bolt'er on in. lol
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d75/trixxr/Engin9.jpg
Thanks again for confirming correct part number for me.
Scott
Blue Bowtie
01-31-2008, 11:16 PM
I hate it when the rods come out like that. It almost completely ruins your day. Did you assemble with the newer PM rods, or aftermarket? Balance could be a real issue with aftermarket forged rods unless you had the weights checked.
95ImpalaSS
02-01-2008, 10:51 AM
Almost ruin my day? Ah Hahaha weeks later I was still paying to get it home. :banghead:
Everything is balanced and blue printed this time. :wink:
I hate it when those rods come out like this....:disappoin
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d75/trixxr/DSCN0553.jpg
6 PSI on a stock motor is not a good thing. Check parts for sale for a great deal on a Polished Powerdyne supercharger!
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=886203
Look at cylinder #2 rod journal. Hard to tell where the crank starts and rod journals ends. lol :shakehead
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d75/trixxr/DSCN0555.jpg
Everything is balanced and blue printed this time. :wink:
I hate it when those rods come out like this....:disappoin
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d75/trixxr/DSCN0553.jpg
6 PSI on a stock motor is not a good thing. Check parts for sale for a great deal on a Polished Powerdyne supercharger!
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=886203
Look at cylinder #2 rod journal. Hard to tell where the crank starts and rod journals ends. lol :shakehead
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d75/trixxr/DSCN0555.jpg
Blue Bowtie
02-01-2008, 11:03 PM
All I can see is the #4 bore - The #2 seems to be cut off from the photo. At least it only scored it a little... ;)
Meh, a good crank grinder should be able to dust that off in no time.
A little J-B weld will fix it.
Maybe some SeaFoam in the oil would be good.
Actually, that looks pretty good for a ... Oh, wait, that's NOT a Honda.
I could keep going.
Anyway, where the rods fragged and punched through looks dangerously close to the pan rail Were you able to save the block, or not risk it?
Meh, a good crank grinder should be able to dust that off in no time.
A little J-B weld will fix it.
Maybe some SeaFoam in the oil would be good.
Actually, that looks pretty good for a ... Oh, wait, that's NOT a Honda.
I could keep going.
Anyway, where the rods fragged and punched through looks dangerously close to the pan rail Were you able to save the block, or not risk it?
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