97 sl2 wont start!!!

so we have here a 97 saturn sl2 automatic... It ran just fine before but went and turned the car off and has not started since. The motor cranks and there is fuel and spark but no start! Had the battery tested and replaced but was not the issue. We live in 0 degree weather here lately so i thought maybe the fuel lines froze but i can obviously smell gas coming out of the tailpipe and checked every cylinder for spark. The only thing not stock on the car is an aftermarket AEM CAI. That was on the car for thousands of miles now so i wouldn't imagine that would have any affect on the problem... Any help here?

The 97 had issues with the fuel pumps. Have that tested out.

Has the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor been replaced? That sensor tells the computer how cold it is - and they have a well known reputation for ageing so much that they cause starting problems.
The olde proverb is that an engine runs if it has 3 things: Compression, Ignition (at the proper moment) and Fuel (a burnable mixture of it.) You can remove the large air inlet duct at the throttle body, and spray some 'starter fluid' (really ether) into the throttle body, while someone cranks the engine over, to see if it fires or at least sputters. If so it would establish that you have compression and spark at the right moment.
If it doesnt try to start at all with the starter fluid, I would do a compression test. If thats good it would eliminate the possibly of the timing chain having jumped a tooth. And while the spark plugs are out you can see if they are clean, not wet or fouled.
Can we assume you can hear the soft hum of the fuel pump hum for about 2 seconds right after you turn the ignition key to -on-?
I have had a car refuse to start because of ice in the fuel tank - that was cloggin up the inlet strainer. If the car starts when its been above freezing for a few hours, I would suspect a puddle of water in the bottom of the fuel tank. A can of 'Drygas' would be needed then.
Sorry that it doesnt look like there will be weather above freezing for a while though.

Well we can pretty much eliminate a timing chain or fuel pump problem. The timing chain was replaced when the new head gasket was put in this summer. i heard the fuel pump hum last night so thats working... i put a bottle of isoheet in last night but doubting that wouldnt help much especially if the gas lines were frozen so im going to buy the coolant temp sensor today and give it a shot considering its only 10 bucks! Worth a try right? I'll let you know what happens.

when you crank it put your foot of the gas..................I had a starting problem before with my 1994 SL and that work for me

Just because you can hear the fuel pump doesn't necessarily mean it is still working. I would still have it tested out, just to be 100% sure.

Just to add, the ECT in your car should be made of brass. If it is the original nylon unit or the current one looks damaged, then replace it.

where can i have it tested?

I would take it to a reputable shop.

The original ECTS was made of resin, and would be eatin through by the coolant. the new brass one will last the life of the car. get it replaced asap while also checking the connector for any corrosion. 13mm deep dish socket with a 3/8 drive is all that is need

if you hear the fuel pump priming then check the shrader valve on the fuel rail using a screw driver or something small enough to push the pin in. gas should squirt out, however wear protective eye wear so it does not get in your eyes. if fuel comes out (not just dribbles) then your pump should be working.

pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor while starting, puts the car in flood mode. this will turn of the injectors, so if the cylinders are flooded they will clear out. i would do this since youve been continously cranking. i would take out the spark plugs and crank the engine. this will get rid of any fuel and let you start clean.

what kind of spark plugs do you have? NGK coppers are the best. no platinums or other fancy plugs

have you checked all the fuses? both in the cabin and under the hood?

the '97 did not have problems with the fuel pumps, but rather the check valve after the pump (just so happened it was all in one unit). the check valve would leak, letting the fuel rail depressurize so an immediate cold start would not happen. you would need to wait 2 seconds for the fuel pump to repressurize the fuel rail, and it started up dandy :)

OK guys heres the deal. Pulled the coolant temp sensor, it was cracked in two places. Replaced it. Still wouldn't start. The plugs were SUPER flooded and smelled dank with gas. Bought new plugs and put them in after blowing out the cylinders. The car ALMOST seemed to sputter a little then went right back to the cranking mode with no firing.... Now i proceded to check the fuses which were ok. I'm going to test the relay tomorrow...

Now heres the thing...
I pressed the schroeder valve on the fuel line and seemed to only BARELY drip if not just gassy air came out but pressurized i mean it made noise. AND i KNOW theres gas in the dang tank.

I'm at a loss.............. :runaround::banghead::frown::shakehead:banghead:

OK guys heres the deal. Pulled the coolant temp sensor, it was cracked in two places. Replaced it. Still wouldn't start. The plugs were SUPER flooded and smelled dank with gas. Bought new plugs and put them in after blowing out the cylinders. The car ALMOST seemed to sputter a little then went right back to the cranking mode with no firing.... Now i proceded to check the fuses which were ok. I'm going to test the relay tomorrow...

Now heres the thing...
I pressed the schroeder valve on the fuel line and seemed to only BARELY drip if not just gassy air came out but pressurized i mean it made noise. AND i KNOW theres gas in the dang tank.

I'm at a loss.............. :runaround::banghead::frown::shakehead:banghead:

try starting the car with the pedal all the way down. this puts it in flood mode.

what kind of plugs?

how does the connector look to the ects?

Forgot to include that in my last post yea i tried that with no luck what-so-ever. and the plugs are just autolite copper core plugs. Also the ECT plug seemed to have that contact goo stuff on it. I'll clean that off and give it another shot..?

Forgot to include that in my last post yea i tried that with no luck what-so-ever. and the plugs are just autolite copper core plugs. Also the ECT plug seemed to have that contact goo stuff on it. I'll clean that off and give it another shot..?

the dielectric grease( think thats what its called) and that can stay. put the key in the run position. let the fuel pump prime. check the shoeder valve making sure you press the pin all the way in. ONLY fuel should come out. if it doesnt, then either you need a new fuel filter, or you need to take out the gas tank, and have the fuel pump checked.

at this point is where i run into my problem... the car is sitting outside of my apartment where i have no tools so i was hoping it was an easy fix. I dont want to have to tow it to my shop to rip this thing apart... guess i have no choice now.... I HATE SATURNS!!!! **most of the time**

Yeah, many owners get frustrated with these cars. They're good for people who like to work on their own cars.

no there for people who like saving money :)

ok i went and picked up my obdII scanner and no codes were present. Fuel sys tested OK. went into data and the only oddities i found were TPS Signal 98.8% with key on and Fuel Sys 1 Open while Fuel Sys 2 was not.

Any help here?
Does this help anyone?

The ect read normal at 5 degrees which is the temp outside
IAC read 1 degree

so you have fuel
you have spark

a compression test i think is next

bad compression wouldnt cause an instant non starting issue while it ran fine just before though...

WHAT ABOUT A JUMPED TIMING CHAIN... I JUST REPLACED THE DANG THING THIS SPRING WHEN THE HEAD GASKET WENT THO... I WOULD BE SO PISSED. THAT THING WAS A PAIN TO REPLACE... IS THERE A WAY TO CHECK WITHOUT REMOVING THE COVER?

bad compression wouldnt cause an instant non starting issue while it ran fine just before though...

WHAT ABOUT A JUMPED TIMING CHAIN... I JUST REPLACED THE DANG THING THIS SPRING WHEN THE HEAD GASKET WENT THO... I WOULD BE SO PISSED. THAT THING WAS A PAIN TO REPLACE... IS THERE A WAY TO CHECK WITHOUT REMOVING THE COVER?

Why would you not do a compression test as a basic diagnostic? that would tell you if the chain jumped, head gasket went, valve seals went...etc

jumped timing chaing?...possibly but unlikey. these are interference motors, so if the timing is off you could possibly bend a valve with the piston. you would hear alot of noise, along with alot of smoke out the back. And no, you need to remove the cover to fully inspect the chain. you can remove the valve cover to see the top of the chain however.

after you changed the ECTS, did you reset the PCM?

ya sorry lol it was 1AM i talk stupid then lol but what do you mean by resetting the pcm? flashing it?

ya sorry lol it was 1AM i talk stupid then lol but what do you mean by resetting the pcm? flashing it?

you can reset the PCM 3 ways.
with a scanner
by pulling the B-fuse in the underhood fuse box
or by pulling of the negative battery cable for a minute

i got it! Had to disconnect PCM then baked the sparkplugs free of gas then had to crank at reg and wot to get it started but its all good now. The only problem is SES light popped on stating that O2Sensor Circuit has slow response... Figuring that will go away shortly. Thanks for the help guys!

I'd look at the CPS crank position sensor. You'll find alot of good info here:
http://www.saturnfans.com/

i got it! Had to disconnect PCM then baked the sparkplugs free of gas then had to crank at reg and wot to get it started but its all good now. The only problem is SES light popped on stating that O2Sensor Circuit has slow response... Figuring that will go away shortly. Thanks for the help guys!

heyy! fantastic! i totally did not think to suggest reseting the PCM till so late. my apologies ! GLad it worked out. happy driving!

I'd look at the CPS crank position sensor. You'll find alot of good info here:
http://www.saturnfans.com/

it cant be the CPS becuase he has spark. if he did not have spark when cranking then yes the CPS would be the likely culprit :)