Anything to look out for in 94-95 Impala SS's?

Hi, i am looking at buying a 1994 Impala SS with 85,000 miles on it. It is in great condition inside and out, and the guy had replaced the lower ball joints, radiator and had the digital dash rebuilt (is this a problem area??), among a couple other things here and there such as the Fuel Pump and the rear shocks. Is there anything else in particular I should look out for? Common problem areas?

Here is the one I am looking at: http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=234652120&dealer_id=61594499&car_year=1994&num_records=25&model=CHEVIMP&systime=&make2=&start_year=1994&engine=&keywordsrep=083083&keywordsfyc=__U1M,__&certified=&fuel=&body_code=0&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=75&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&make=CHEV&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceASC&address=19382&advanced=y&end_year=1998&transmission=&doors=&max_price=&cardist=75

I don't really like the 4L60E transmissions, especially from the 94 year, as I see them breaking in LT1 Camaros all the time under rather normal driving....hmm. Is it exactly the same as the F-body transmissions or did they update the clutches or something to accomodate the heavier weight? And how much can I expect to pay to get it rebuilt? I appreciate any help people here can give and wish you a happy new year.

Make sure it is not a clone. Trannies are decent. I think its a 700r4. to rebuild one is 2-2500. good luck

Welcome Aboard!

First, your user name may be a little misleading. My '94 SS does at least 163 MPH, not just 160. But, close enough, I suppose.

If the lower ball joints have been replaced, hopefully the owner opted to install the Cadillac/Buick ball joints, since they are a 5/8" stud rather than the 1/2" used on other B-Cars. They're usually a little more appropriate for turning a 4,500 pound car in 0.9G turns. If not, at least they are new, and the lower A-Frame holes were probably inspected at time of replacement. It's not really a weak point, but IS a performance upgrade often performed on these cars.

The digital dash is usually not a failure area.

The stock transmission is a 4L60E. It is functionally the same as a TH700-R4, but is electrically shifted. I'm not sure if they are any good or not, since mine only has 128K on it and I haven't had to tear it apart yet to check for any wear. I've only replaced fluid and filters on a regular basis. It doesn't get used to tow anything, but does frequently make high 13-second passes and generates the occasional cloud of tire smoke at the most inappropriate times (according to Mrs. Bowtie). 55 MPH in first gear doesn't seem to be a problem for it, either.

If you have a failed/weak 4L60E, you can rebuild it yourself for about $450 in parts and supplies,and have a nearly bullet-proof transmission, with Red Eagle clutch packs and band, Kolene steels, a high RPM pump, higher stall RPM converter, an improved 2/4 servo assembly, and heavy duty rollers in place of bushings. A stock rebuild can be done for about $250 in parts.

Paying $2,500 for a transmission rebuild is just ridiculous when it's so easy t do yourself, and you can use premium parts.

One area to check the the main electrical power node stud in the Underhood Electrical Center (UEC). The original studs were cast zinc, and tend to deteriorate. The replacement studs are phosphor bronze, and don't suffer those problems. Rogue electrical problems can result if the power node is failing. It's an easy fix.

Another potential problem area is the electric AIR pump. If the AIR distribution check valves start to fail, moisture from the exhaust can be forced back through the pump and corrode it. They can be repaired or replaced. If the underhood lamp doesn't work, and you don't hear the electric pump run on startup, there's a good chance that it is failing. Again, it's not a major repair.

OptiSpark distributors can also cause problems, like they can on any LT1/L99, but the advantage of the '94 B-Cars is that the Opti cap is vented. Other models' LT1s did not get a vented cap until 1995.

Fuel pumps, shocks, and whatever else might ail you are no more a problem on these cars than any other.

Looking at that particular car, if it's a clone, it's well done. Since the owner is providing the original window sticker, there is probably little question about its authenticity, but if the seller can provide a photo of the SPID/RPO label inside the rear deck lid, you'll be able to tell if it's an original SS. The SS has the RPO code "WS7" whereas the standard Caprice does not.

Blue pretty well sums it up for you:lol:. I was going to add from seeing other's experiences with these cars that the Optispark can be an issue, but not all the time. There are replacement units available that make it easier to replace if it should go bad. One "trait" that was overlooked with the "B" body cars of that era was the inner door panels have a tendency to crack as they age. There have been reported issues of the window sliders going bad and needing replacement. The replacement sliders are of a better design and the whole process is outlined over in the Buick Roadmaster forum ( it is stickied for reference.) The door panels are heavy and they tend to crack while being removed or replaced when doing the window slider job.
And of course if you live in an area that uses salt on the roads and the car gets exposed, the typical areas that are quickly affected on these B bodies are the lower panels by the rear wheels.

Oh, and another thing...

This forum, despite it's heading, is usually used for the W-Body Impalas (WIMPalas) instead of the B-Body Impalas. The W-Body is a wrong-wheel-drive, unibody (non-framed), transverse engined vehicle which originated as a Lumina. Posts regarding the B-Body Impalas are usually placed in the Caprice section of the forums, since they are more akin to that full perimeter framed, rear drive, big V-8, true full dual exhaust, non-econobox vehicle.

If you happen to acquire this or another Impala (and that price doesn't look too bad), please post your future threads regarding that vehicle in the Caprice forum.

the optispark being mounted below the water pump weep hole is the reason these distributors die. the fix [insurance] is to install a weep hole drain tube and run tube where it will discharge coolant in an area that is safe. another area is the rear stabilizer bars hardware rust/ integrity. the odometer may have problems displaying the numbers this is bad solder joints in the odo panel. front stabilizer all bushings should be replaced if original.the manifold check valves should be replaced every 5years as the rubber breaks down inthis time.use oem parts on this part 7/8in dia aftermarket is 5/8in.good luck i wish i bought 2 in nov 1995........