Power Steering, Intake Manifolds, And Automatic 2 Step...wtf?!

Hey guys...thank fully i just traded in my 2000 windstar 3.8L for another car. This car has been giving me a lot of problems...most of them happening more than once. the van only had 81000 miles on it, and the repairs cost more than the car itself. I know i don't have the car anymore, but i just wanted to know what could've caused these issues to happen more than once. here's the list:

-Both upper and lower intake manifold (TWICE)
-All O2 sensors (understandable)
-Power Steering Pump with Rack and Pinion (3 TIMES!!!)
-AC Compressor
-ABS Problems
-and the list goes on

I just want to know what could cause these problems to occur more than once.

Another issue to add: On cold days (40 degrees and below) it would start..then die. so i would have to hold the accelerator to keep the engine running, 3000-5000 RPM. but one day when it was giving be cranking problems...i revved it and saw that the rev limiter changed to 4000 RPM!!! so i drove it heavily to see if it did this while driving, but it didn't. Only in park and nuetral. it was like a two step...only thing is that i didn't put one on there. just want to know what u guys think about it...


PS: car had everything with leather, vcr, tv, rear radio...but got 4500 for trade-in...good deal??? Thanks (man that was a long post)

The oxygen sensors are pretty reliable....often changed when the real problem is a vaccum leak (upper intake manifold "isolator bolts" is common issue for this on your year).
I changed the upstream ones on my '96 2 years ago, at somewhere around 170K miles, and they were still good, even with green stains on 1 from coolant getting on it.
New ones performed same....with same fuel economy as the old ones.
Engine was running great before and after change.
I still have the original downstream sensors (they only monitor the catalytic converters to make sure that they are working.....and switch at a much slower rate than the upstream sensors).

Lower intake manifold gaskets should NOT have needed more than one repair.....unless you got them before the improved ones came out.....I don't know when that was, but the improved ones address the issue that caused them to faild in the first place.
The mating surfaces must be well cleaned.....with non-metal tooling to avoid putting scratches in the alluminum....which could result in leaks.

Power steering pump and rack both going bad 3X?
The only thing that would make sense about the 2 going bad at the same time would be if the rack leaked enough that the pump ran dry before the problem was found.
Rack....sounds like a few bad rebuilt racks.....has been known to happen.

Sounds like you had a bad one.....or bad service.
Hopefully, you will have better luck with your replacement vehicle.

I have a 2000 windstar and in my opinion the main culprits of transmission and Power Steering problems are the two catalytic converters which sit under them. They produce alot of heat which in turn burns the fluids and damages the units. These problems can be prevented by flushing out the old fluids every 20-30k (depending on your driving conditions) as outlined in this forum. Since both units use Mercon V spec. ATF, it is a good idea to flush out both units at the same interval. I started having issues with my P/S system at around 55k (whining sound on turns) which was absolutely fixed by doing the flush procedure with 3 qts. Mobil 1 ATF. On the other hand, my tranny went on me at 60,315k as I was about to flush it out as well ($2,400), Only 300 miles over 60k and it just went. This is why the flush procedure is so important.
Also, a good idea is to install a transmission cooler as this will further enhance the cooling effeciency and prolong the life of the unit.

As far as the upper and lower intake manifold, I have not had any problems with these except for the isolator bolts issue which was fixed a long time ago under warranty. There is an issue ive read about with the by-pass hose leaking coolant and sits under the upper intake manifold which in turn can damage your sensors as the coolant leaks into the engine but I have not experienced this problem yet.

The ABS issue seems to be highly common on our vehicle, but on other Make and Models as well. Mine Comes on in the summer and goes out in the winter so right now its out. From what I read this problem is in the Abs Module itself and seems to be related to a grounding issue of some sort. I would leave it alone as replacing it is to expensive if you go to the dealer, brakes will continue to work except for the pumping action which the ABS replicated; plus you can pump the brakes yourself to stop if the vehicle slides.

The stalling problem in the windstar is mostly caused by the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) which becomes clogged with soot and prevents the adjustment of air to maintain engine idle. An easy fix, again from this forum is to take it off the engine and spraying it with WD-40 so to flush out the grime inside. Taking it a step further, I suspect the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve to be the culprit in causing issues with both the intake manifold and the IAC as oil from the engine block is spit out throught he valve cover into the intake and the IAC. A good fix for this to install an oil separator aka catch can as this would trap the oil before it gets to the intake (about $20-$30).

Well these are my takes on these issues.

The stalling problem in the windstar is mostly caused by the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) which becomes clogged with soot and prevents the adjustment of air to maintain engine idle.

Thanks for the ideas...but as for the stalling..couldn't also be the MAF sensor??? that could also be the reason for the two step at 4000 RPM (the new rev limiter), couldn't it???

Thanks for the ideas...but as for the stalling..couldn't also be the MAF sensor??? that could also be the reason for the two step at 4000 RPM (the new rev limiter), couldn't it???

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to point something out for everyone. By design, in Park and Neutral the PCM drops the rev limit to 4000 RPM to protect the engine from damage. It is this way also on the Taurus/Sable cars.

that would make sense...thanks for the tip. but..i sold the van for about 4500 and bought a 2002 oldsmobile bravada with a 4.2L I6 DOHC engine. it gets about 15-19 MPG if i have a light foot. so i'm happy with it.