Oil Leak where?

I have a 2003 impala with a 3.4 engine in it. it has 80,000 miles on it and have had it since it was new. I have always used valvoline 5w-30 oil in it. changed every 3000 miles. when it hit 70,000 miles i changed to valvoline max life synthetic blend oil. the last time i went to change oil it was really low to the point that the check oil light came on. at that time i changed oil and today at around 1,700 miles I checked it and it is aboult a quart and a half low. I dont have any oil spots in the garage and the exhaust does not look black. where would this oil be going? Is it because of the new oil? any ansewers would be greatly appreciated

thanks:banghead:
gs

I've heard that the synthetics can clean out the sludge that was sealing your oil leaks, thereby causing leaks where you didn't have any before..try switching back to the 5W-30 maybe.
It could be slowly dripping on the exhaust and burning off.
Check your radiator fluid...maybe it's leaking into it.

I've heard that the synthetics can clean out the sludge that was sealing your oil leaks, thereby causing leaks where you didn't have any before..try switching back to the 5W-30 maybe.
It could be slowly dripping on the exhaust and burning off.
Check your radiator fluid...maybe it's leaking into it.

You didn't say as to whether or not you do your own oil change or have it done? It's not a good idea to wait so long before checking oil levels, every fill up is best Just in case something does give way, you'll catch it early. Could be several reasons for the low level, none of which have anything to do with the type of oil. May not have been filled at the change to the proper level, service tech interupted etc. Only added 4 qts with new filter....head gasket leaking to water jacket, oil in coolant. Oil ring wear or valve guides worn, which I doubt at the mileage you stated. Leaking lower manifold gasket but would most likely see oil spots where parked with that amount of oil (loss?). I would suggest you refill and check often for the next couple of weeks....see if loss it continues.

yes I do it myself. I do only put 4 qts in with a filter which I Change at every oil change. thats what the book says to put in. I guess I should check it at every gas fill up. I jsut get lazy and you woulnt think you would have problems on a newer car. but it is getting older so I will check it the next fill ups. thannks for the advice.

gs

Here is how I do mine, I always change the filter with the oil, I prime the filter about 3/4 of the way and screw it on after putting a bit of oil on the seal. Then I add four qts...run the engine for a few minutes then shut off wait a couple minutes then check the dip stick and generally have to add a pint more or so, totals about 4.5 or 4.7 qts this way...so you might be filling it short some. Thank-you for reposting and if oil loss continues repost using this thread if not too long a time.

Best of luck on this issue...

I'll agree that I've seen this issue as well (2001 Impala LS, 3.8L), and for the life of me I can't imagine where the oil is going (the engine can consume as muich as a quart per month) -- there are no external leaks and it does not "appear" that the oil is being burned (it does not smoke through the exhaust) -- the "Low Oil Level" indication will come on when the engine is about two quarts low.

Maybe the oil is burning in the combustion chamber and not smoking because of the CAT and the way the exhaust system is designed? I've changed from Synthetic to dinosaur oil to test since Synthetics do not smoke as much as conventional oil, but did not notice any difference in the consumption nor the exhaust "tint" or smell. You'd have to tear down the engine and inspect the combustion chamber, cylinders, and heads to really diagnose the path oil is taking to get into the chamber -- A quick check would be to pull a few spark plugs (actually you should pull 'em all), and inspect them for thick black deposits -- since they are actually "in" the combustion chamber, they often reflect the chamber condition.

A long shot, but maybe the oil is just puddling and accumulating inside the crankcase or heads somewhere and not finding it's way back into the pan (at least to the extent that it can be measured on the dipstick)? Yeah, I know, it's really too much oil to just be hiding somewhere inside the engine, but I really don't have any other clue -- LOL.

* One more wild guess is that the consumption appears to be the greatest subsequent to an oil change and (very) slowly tapers off -- this indicates that possibly draining the crankcase allows air to enter the crankcase and oil galleys and it can take some driving for the engine to really "fill" properly?

Even though nothing is coming out on the ground, look under the throttle body on the drivers side. There is a oil pump drive shaft there (it's essentially a distributor with the top cut off. Look for evidence of fresh oil on the top of the motor and transmission housing. If present, there is an o-ring seal at the top of this shaft that will start to leak oil. It will get worse and worse until it starts getting on the ground as well. Very common issue on al GM 60 degree V-6's. If it is leaking, it will require the removal of the throttle body to change the seal, as that shaft goes down into the engine about 5-6", and it has to be removed to change the o-ring.

That is interesting richtazz, I was not aware this was still an issue. I had that problem with my 92 Lumina.

I had a 3.8 that started using oil at 63K went nuts to find the problem. I found that the intake manifold had a internal vacuum leak that was causing my oil to disappear at different rates, sometimes 1 QT in a matter of a 5 day span and the it might go 2 weeks with only 1/2 QT. The new gasket did the trick in my case.

Ok

I have been monitoring my oil level for about a month now. It still goes down sometimes fast sometimes slow. today I went out and opened up my coolant cap on the radiator and there is some brown sludge floating around in there the car is cold and i live in minnesota. so is this sludge from the antifreeze or is the oil leaking into my antifreeze? My oil dipstick is clean oil wouldnt that be full of antifreeze if it were leaking internally? if this is oil in the radiator what happend and what do I have to do to fix it? the car doesnt overheat so ist not like the rakiator is plugged up.

thankss
garys

Time for a complete flush and fill radiator service...this is the result of dextron fluid used these days...should be done every 2 years from my understanding of techs I've talked with. Has nothing to do with oil leak and does not necessarily mean it's going to over heat right away. You can use the normal green fluid after a complete flush if you want as they will NOT mix. I do not do so myself, I really don't like the idea, if I would decide to sell mine, more factory correct the better in my opinion only.....Others, I am sure will disagree. As far as the oil loss, I am a bit stumped...valve guides may be worn or rings and be burning off...or leaking somewhere.

so ragtop you dont think that it is the oil leaking into the antifreeze? how can I tell if it is antifreeze sludge or oil in the antifreeze without bringing it in. even though sounds like i better get a flush anyway?

so ragtop you dont think that it is the oil leaking into the antifreeze? how can I tell if it is antifreeze sludge or oil in the antifreeze without bringing it in. even though sounds like i better get a flush anyway?

oil loss! PCV,PCV,PCV this must be replaced often or it will suck too much or get plugged up. because you change you oil often it must be sucking too much cankcase oil into the intake manifold..............

if coolant has particles floating in it replace coolant , use distilled water, replace with the SAME coolant that is in there now. make sure you put in the proper amount , as many put too much water into the mix....

Synthetic oil will not remove sludge from your engine. if thats the problem (sludge) try auto-rx. This stuff is the cats a**.

Switching to synthetic oil later on can cause the engine to burn more oil. It did on my Saturn.

You can pretty easily check the PCV -- if it is really pulling oil from the crankcase (I think it is mounted on/in the valve cover) into the intake, you should find a greasy PCV hose (inside) on the intake manifold end, otherwise look for a solution elsewhere.

j cat

I did check the pvc valve yesterday also it was black on the bottom. I shook it and it did rattle. this is the original pvc valve on the car. would be a cheap check. I have the car going into the shop tomorrow for a coolant flush and also to check the leak. will tell them about what you said about the pvc valve. Make it sound like i really know what im talking about. hahhaha. thanks for the info will post what they come up with

thanks
gs

j cat

I did check the pvc valve yesterday also it was black on the bottom. I shook it and it did rattle. this is the original pvc valve on the car. would be a cheap check. I have the car going into the shop tomorrow for a coolant flush and also to check the leak. will tell them about what you said about the pvc valve. Make it sound like i really know what im talking about. hahhaha. thanks for the info will post what they come up with

thanks
gs

it is written that PCV should be replaced at 12kmi. I disagree and think that if you change oil on a regular 3kmi interval this is excessive and not necessary. but at 20k-30k mi I change mine as this valve will wear and suck too much this will draw excessive oil vapors into intake.

ok
I brought my car in today and they flushed the cooling system. the oil leak they said was a combination of an slight oil pump leak they said was an o-ring and the intake gasket had a slight leak and was going into the exhaust and burning he said the exhaust pipe inside was black. I asked him if it needed to be done right away. he said that i need to watch the oil level. but should be alright. Now when i got home i googled the intake gasket problem and it seem that its antifreeze gets into the oil when the gasket goes and if you dont fix it right away bye bye engine. now with my oil leaking is this the same problem? do i need to fix it right away just want some more opinions. would be around a 800.00 fix. and also the oil pump o-ring is this something i can do or is that internal

thanks
gs

ok
I brought my car in today and they flushed the cooling system. the oil leak they said was a combination of an slight oil pump leak they said was an o-ring and the intake gasket had a slight leak and was going into the exhaust and burning he said the exhaust pipe inside was black. I asked him if it needed to be done right away. he said that i need to watch the oil level. but should be alright. Now when i got home i googled the intake gasket problem and it seem that its antifreeze gets into the oil when the gasket goes and if you dont fix it right away bye bye engine. now with my oil leaking is this the same problem? do i need to fix it right away just want some more opinions. would be around a 800.00 fix. and also the oil pump o-ring is this something i can do or is that internal

thanks
gs

this mechanic is guessing that oil is leaking into the intake manifold and causing your oil consumption. this is what i was refering to is the PCV will do the same thing and since your PCV is the original for 4.oo you will quickly find out if this improves your problem. i would have the oil pump O ring replaced also. the intake manifold gasket should be replaced if you have coolant leaking out.small oil leaks are ok,not worth the cost to fix. the reason coolant must be fixed is because if the coolant pressure drops then your coolant will boil and then you will overheat engine as water pump will not pump the boiling coolant.......if you had coolant in the oil your oil would look like a milk shake foamy and not looking like oil at all.....

I was looking at the invoice and its actually called an distributor oil pump drve plug seal leaking. is this on top of the engine or where the heck is it? i looke in a haynes manual and cant find it? and is it something anyone can do? or does this need to be done by a mechanic. I am going to put an new pcv in hope thats all it is.

thanks
gs

Yes it is on the top where the distributor would have been. This fix requires an O' ring...should use GM part here also ask for the distributor gasket and double the seal that way. GM parts counter will show you a diagram of its location and yes, you can do this! This was a common problem on the 3.1 ltr and I have been seeing other references on this with the 3400 lately. Why GM allows these engineering faults to continue for so any years goes way beyond my understanding. Makes me think of all the ignition locks I have had to replace in just about every chevy I have owned not to mention door handles. But still a Chevy lover none the less!