Pinging & Oil Consumption

A brief, but hopefully helpful bit of background.

2001 Windstar, 108k miles. Did the valve cover, isolator bolt fix at about 50k. Numerous unrelated (I think) fixes over the years.

Running rough, so we replaced the ignition coil, wires and plugs about 6000 miles ago. That took care of that.

About a six weeks ago, took it into the shop for brakes and an oil change. Technician say that the oil level was about 1.5 qts low. In 80k plus miles of driving I've never been told that the oil level was low before, but he's probably right. He also put a bottle of Restore in, suggesting that it might help oil usage problems. Plus it's been pinging. He cleaned the MAF sensor but that's all.

Fast forward about 1 month. The van starts running very rough and throws a P0304 code. Cylinder 4 misfire. The shop that did the plugs/wires/coil says that the plug is severly fouled, probably because it's burning oil. That would account for the oil consumption and fouled plug, right? Replaced the plug and it's running fine now.

So here are my questions:

I hope to keep the van about 1 more year. Is there anything that I can do that won't cost an arm and a leg to stop or cut down on the oil consumption? I assume we're talking about a piston ring or valve leakage. Any opinions of oil additives? When the shop did the last oil change they used 5w30 rather than 5w20. He said that it was ok by Ford, and that the heavier weight oil might help cut down on consumption. Or could the 5w30 have somehow hastened the oil consumption?

I asked about using Maxlife or other high mileage oils and he said it might be worth a try. Any opinions? Should I just count on replacing a spark plug every 6 months or so? Anything fatally flawed wrong with that approach?

And as far as pinging goes, any success out there using a higher octane level?

Thanks!

As for the pinging that could be the cause of the oil consumption.. Did the pinging happen earlier on. If the piston started to erode it can cause blow by and oil can slip by the rings. You may want to have the dealer or a shop to see if they can adjust the timing a little. Do that first before raising the octane. Also if the plug that fouled is in the front you could clean it or replace it from time to time. If its in the back it may not be worth it..It is a fact the spark knock and pinging does erode the piston over time.. So if the sparkplug replacement or cleaning stop the pinging that would help pro long its life span.. Also I run 5/w30
synthetic and have had no problems.. Its fine to go up if you need to.

I wonder if the engine is being overfilled. That would lead to high oil comsumption and plug fouling. Don't go only by the stick ... probably should be mid-range at most. Only 5 qts are to be added with filter change.

The Windstar has a 6qt oil pan with filter change not 5 qt as stated.

Yes try the high mileage oil it might help but doubtfull with that kind of mileage.These engines are not designed to last that kind of miles.
As for the pinging check the operation of the EGR valve.
I had the same problem with mine due to the EGR valve being stuck closed which will cause excessivly high combuston chamber temps which might also account for the oil burning.
My Windstar only has 80k and burns 2 ots every 4000 miles which I consider excessive
Pete

I have never had to add oil to my 218 kmi 3.8. The (Mobil1) oil level hardly drops a detectable amount between 3.5kmi changes.

I'm having to replace the tranny, so I thought it was a good time to refreshen/overhaul the engine. (Seals will start failing soon if nothing else.) I'm finding things in very good shape inside. Little wear and very clean.

Have you done the upper intake manifold "isolator bolt" TSB that is mentioned in the sticky post at the top of this post yet?
If you have a vaccum leak....it could be causing pinging.

I would also get a new Motorcraft PCV valve.
Some aftermarket ones can permit too much flow.....which will pull more oil vapor into the intake.

Carbon buildup inside the cylinder is a common result from too much oil being drawn into the engine.
This increases compression, which causes pinging.
The PCM "reflash" that FORD has in the TSB is to retard the timing slightly to address this.

I am not big on "Restore"
You might look into Auto RX, which is a great product to clean the oil part of the engine.
Auto RX is only available online from their website (I am on a different computer and don't have the link handy).
They are a very small company......but I have used it....and it did clean...although my engine was already pretty clean.
FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS if you use this product.

Personally, unless you want to clean the engine.....using the Auto RX....I would STAY AWAY from additives to the oil.
They will most likely cause more harm than good.

Have the EGR ports (in the lower intake manifold....requiring that the upper intake manifold be removed) been cleaned?
If not....then that is actually something that I would put at the TOP of the list (along with the isolator bolt replacement, if not already done).
The EGR ports clog at cylinders 1 and 6......and work to the far end.....leaving 3 and 4 the last cylinders with open EGR ports.
Then, when the EGR system opens....ALL the flow goes to the 1 or 2 cylinders that still have open ports, robbing them of oxygen....causing the misfire.
When mine clogged, the only thing that happened was rough running (came up suddenly) and a flashing CEL......with a stored code of P0304.
I removed the upper intake manifold....cleaned the EGR ports.....and all was fine.
The EGR valve is pretty reliable......clogged EGR ports is VERY common.
The DPFE is also a common failure...but I don't see that at this point for your vehicle.

Yeah all of these things have been done and some more then once.
The ping was an intermittent problem which changing the egr solved.
I'm at a loss right now as to what it could be.
Ford has had the car numerous times for the intake manifold.
Right now the car is running fine except the CEL is on with the damn 171/174 code.
Yesterday I replaced a leaking break pressure switch on the mastercyl. that I found thanks to this forum.
I'm tired of daling with this and after the holidays the van is getting traded for something newer,smaller and better on gas.
One stipulation my wife threw at me was that whatever we but it not be a Ford

Thanks to all for the good advice. I think I may try a bottle of AutoRX when the next oil change cycle comes up.

When the Ford dealer did the whole valve cover, isolator bolt fix a few years ago, would they have also done a PCM flash? My mechanic says that it would have been part of that job, but the dealer would normally have put a sticker under the hood somewhere indicating that that was done.

I'm not much of a do-it-yourselfer anymore. Any guesses as to what it might cost to have EGR ports cleaned and the EGR valve checked?

Thanks.

"My mechanic says that it would have been part of that job, but the dealer would normally have put a sticker under the hood somewhere indicating that that was done."
Yes it is supposed to have been flashed as part of the TSB along with the decal stating the new program.
I was looking for the decal just the other night on mine and it is not there either.
After the first of the year my Windstar is going on the market and I will be looking for a new car for my wife.There is no reason I should have to go through this and be spending this kind of money to fix a design flaw.

Sorry you folks are having so much car troubles. I can remember feeling the same way about my Windstar. But thanks to this forum, and having the time to hunt out the solutions ... and it took some time ... I finally feel I can handle most anything the Winnie throws my way. But if I had had to pay someone else to learn ... I would be (further) in the poor house ... or the Winnie would be long gone.

But it's a great road car ... and carries a bunch, so I'm hoping to get another 200 - 300 kmiles out of it after this engine overhaul and tranny swap. If I can meet the deadline, my wife and I plan to drive it cross-country next Feb. Wish me luck!

Thats what I don't understand.
Yeah it was a great car when I had no problems with it but I'm $1500 into it this year and I was lucky the transmission was covered under warrenty both of them,first replacement lasted 2 weeks.
A rack and pinion and also a $450 heater hose,you know the one that goes under the upper intake.Thats just in 2007
Whats next?Unfortunately I don't have the time or aplace to do the repairs myself or the ability to lay the car up for more then a day.
When do you say enough is enough.
The van is just not worth that much at least not enough to swinga motor and tranny into.
A 2000 Windstar fully loaded in pristine might get 5 to 6 thousand in the used car market.
I'm gonna probably sell mine and cut my loses before I have to sink any more money into it.
I've driven nothing but Fords for many years now and my car is a 93 Grand Marquise and would buy my wife a Crown Vic or Marquise without hesitation
but this van has me pissing vineagar.
I'm ready to look a Toyota's and Nissan's
Pete

I agree. A Windstar is apt to be a problem car unless a person has time and space (and inclination) to "play" with it. I would not have bought a Windstar if I had known what troubles lay ahead.

But at this point I have a '99 with 218k on it. Essentially worthless on the used car market ( I sure wish I had money to buy something new). I figure for $3k (plus about two weeks spare time) in repairs I can get another 9 years and 200k miles. What could I buy for that money that would serve me as well? Almost a "no brainer" for my situation.

... just wish I were working on something a little more exciting! What an archaic engine design!

But what else is gonna fail and how much more is it gonna cost you in the next 9 years and 200k.
Is the rest of the car gonna hold up?
I can't afford a new car either right now but I also can't afford dumping a few hundred here and a few hundred there now a days.
It would be better for me to use the Windstar as a down payment and pick up a lease for 200 a month or a down payment on a newer used car but not a Windstar something like a 03 or 04 Crown Vic or Grand Maruise but my wife really likes the Altima.
My kids are getting older so I really don't need the mini van any longer and I would like something better on fuel.
If I can find something that actually gets 30mpg or higher then the savings in fuel will almost pay the monthly note.

When I get finished, everything on the sub-frame should be in tip-top shape. In fact, the sub-frame is being replaced also ... the old one was bent up pretty badly. We don't drive much in snow/salt ... so there's no rust.. the body should last another nine easily. But hey, it's all about calculated risks ... and averages.

I have a Nissan truck. It's OK. Not perfect, but OK. Nissan is probably my favorite of the Japanese brands ... if not Mazda.

Watch those leases. I like 'em. But they are just another way of financing a vehicle and some folks don't do their math. If you drive a lot ... don't be surprised at the end of the lease term. If you drive mileage that you haven't prepaid for ... you will pay dearly after the fact. Every mile that you could have bought for a dime in the beginning, may cost you a half-dollar in the end. Some folks lease with the intention of buying the car at the end of the lease. That's ok also ... it kinda entends the finance period, but also gives you a chance to walk away if you change your mind. Costs a little extra, so do the math to see if it works for you. And you have to have collision insurance all those years on the vehicle.

My wifes car is used for round town stuff only,barely sees 12k a year if that much.Most of the lease's go 12 to 15k per year then 15 cents per mile over that.
The problem is if you turn it in at the end of the lease then you have to scratch up another down payment to lease a new one if not a downpayment then a lease fee in the area of 2k.
So I'm doing my research for now and still messing with the Windstar to see if I can get to the bottom of this CEL light

Could also be a lower intake gasket, a leak will pull oil from the valley. I would have a cylinder leakage test done on the cylinder that fouled the plug, if it passes that I would look at the lower intake as the cause.