Power Steering

How Do I Flush My Power Steering?

You need to use Mercon ATF, not power steering fluid for your 2000 windstar.
Mercon V should be fine.
Mobil 1 ATF is a good product that is easy to find.

You can use a turkey baster.....and suck fluid out of the power steering fluid resevoir and add fresh....Run the motor, turning the steering wheel from limit to limit (but not resting against the limit), then suck the fluid out of the resevoir, and repeat this process about 5 or 6 times.

OR, you can remove the return line to the resevoir, and plug the spot on the resevior to prevent it from draining out, if you have a remote resevoir (not mounted to the side of the power steering pump), then several members have mentioned a screen in there that can become clogged with junk.....so check and clean it as needed...
Direct the return line into a container.
Have a helper give the starter a touch....but don't let the motor run......the resevoir will drain REAL fast....and you don't want to drain it all the way......to prevent air from getting on into the power steering system.
Add fresh fluid.......touch the starter again......add fresh fluid......and do this until you run about 2 or 3 quarts of new ATF through.
Reconnect the return line to the resevoir, and fill resevoir to the full line (but don't overfill).

If the return line is not long enough to direct into a container....you can buy a clear hose......just big enough to slide over the return line.

..Have a helper give the starter a touch....but don't let the motor run......the resevoir will drain REAL fast...

Hehee.. No doubt about that wiswind. I think I've still got oil stains from head to toe in my garage to prove that point! :banghead:

Joel

May I suggest two alternate methods of turning the ps pump for this procedure that would also eliminate the need for a second person and insure you won't accidentally get too much out at one time. If you do choose to use the starter to turn the pump, disconnect the ignition system so it won't fire and fluid get away form you. But, the one person method would be to loosen the belt off the ps pump and manually rotate it. You will be able to better control the rate the fluid leaves the reservoir and you can refill it as needed before it runs out and gets air in, and less likely to have fluid all over from a hose gone wild. I haven't tried it yet, but I hope to soon.

But, the one person method would be to loosen the belt off the ps pump and manually rotate it. You will be able to better control the rate the fluid leaves the reservoir and you can refill it as needed before it runs out and gets air in, and less likely to have fluid all over from a hose gone wild. I haven't tried it yet, but I hope to soon.

My power steering is whining after about 30 + minutes of running. So it's time for a flush. I can see that Mobil 1 ATF is an easy solution. My question to you tripletdaddy is how do you go about doing your one man solution.

I can see that you need to loosen the belt and I assume that the belt will require a belt puller or something from an autoparts store. But what else needs to be done?

I have a 2003 and I have never replaced the p/s fluid before but desperately need to do it b/4 my wife takes a long trip this summer.

if I could get some photos, that would be really helpful. I noticed that the chiltons and haynes all use old photos from back in '98 or so and it's not always what is under my hood.

thanks,

mundy5

If you haven't, you should read this thread - "2000 power steering fluid change"
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=888636&goto=nextnewest

There were two posts that explained reasonable approaches to the fluid change, though I like the idea of disabling the engine from running. He said he disconnected the fuel pump relay. I had suggested to disconnect the wire connector to the ignition coil. I don't know that one method is any worse than the other. For me, I'd crank the engine for a few seconds if that and then check/top off the reservoir with new fluid to start. Letting the engine run to pump out the fluid sounds too dicey to me as it could go too quick and you could get air into your system, which is better to avoid since you can. One guy said he got fluid everywhere when he ran the engine, something else worth avoiding.

These two methods avoid disconnecting the serpentine belt. That involves using a 1/2" breaker bar or long pry bar to turn the tensionerr to release and remove the belt. Now you can by hand rotate the steering pump pulley. I would probably find something I could engage with the pulley in one of its holes like a handle to turn it faster. With this method you can watch the fluid level go down while it pumps and stop and add new fluid as necessary avoiding accidently getting air in the system. The fluid discharge will also be very low and less likely to blast out all over.

Down sides to this method:
This is all theoretical that it will work
Slow
Does not include turning of steering wheel side to side to
exchange all old fluid in rack.
Removal of belt is harder than the two methods that avoid
using running engine

A few items which proved useful for me were 3/8"brass fitting, 3/8" vacum cap, and of course, the 3/8" clear tubing to minimize any mess. The fitting will keep the hoses from coming apart and the cap plugs the resevoir before any oil spills. Remove the fuel pump relay and your ready to do the flush.

I'd like to know how the belt tensioners are set up on everyone else's van. There's no way I can get a 1/2" breaker bar onto the tensioner. On mine, I have to lift the van and from underneath use a 13mm box wrench to rotate the tensioner counterclockwise and use the little 'clip' to hold the tensioner in place to remove the belt. It's easy, but I can't do this from the top.

I don't know about you guys but the 3 times I've removed and replaced my serpentine belt (2 broken/abused belts, 1 alternator install) I've simply pulled on the belt at the top and slipped the belt off the smooth pulley by the alternator. I don't use any sort of tool, just a gentle pull (while maybe a bit more grunt than "gentle") and the belt comes off. I agree it's a tight fit in there, possibly a serpentine belt tool would work but I've never needed one.

Piper

On my 95, 3.8L, the hole for the 1/2" breaker bar is inaccessible. The tensioer is way in the back under the cowl and tight against the fender wall. I have tried turning the tensioner with a wrench on the pulley bolt, but the best method I have found by and far is a long mechanics pry bar that I put in behind the tensioner arm and is jammed between the end of the arm and the main body of the tensioner. Mine doesn't have a "clip" to hold it retracted, wished it did. I have tried pulling on the belt like Piper, but I must not be as hulking. The 3.0 engine appears to have a more accessible tensioner, that looks like the 1/2" socket hole can be used.

Just empty the resovior once a month and replace with fresh fluid. You won't need to flush then. This has worked well for me for 17 yrs.

JC

Just empty the resovior once a month and replace with fresh fluid. You won't need to flush then. This has worked well for me for 17 yrs.

JC

Use a Turkey sucker, or a hand pump both cheap. Suck out res, and refill.
Run a bit, and repeat. This takes time, but it also gets all the crap out of the pump and lines which would be left if you drained the lines anyway.
It just takes time and I also do this on my own rides. Simple and works just as good..

Northern Piper, I also just hand-pull, with gloves, the belt for removal. But I'm not sure this is so easy to do on '98 and earlier models. The serpertine belt got a redesign in '99.

As for ps fluid; when I remember to ... I just empty and refill the reservoir with each engine oil change. Still using the original pump at 230kmi ... but it does now need changing ... if I can ever get around to it!

2001 Deathstar - went and got a 3/8" brass hose connector, vaccum plug set, some clear 3/8" ID hose and Mobil 1 AFT Synthetic.

FISRT and FOREMOST - Stick a rag under the PS reservoir to catch any spills. Pull the return hose off (top hose connection) the reservoir (twist it a bit to loosen) and be ready to cover the reservoir hole with your finger after getting the hose off. Then slip the plug over the reservoir connection (I only spilled a couple of drops). Then insert the hose connector in the PS return hose and connect the clear hose to that too. Take the clear hose to a 1 gallon pail and SECURE the hose to the bucket so it doesn't get away from the bucket when the PS fluid is being pumped. Pull the fuse from the fuel pump (look in your van manual to see which one) so the van won't start. If there is PS fluid in the reservoir to the fill line, then try starting the van, if not top it off first. It won't likely start, but possibly the first try as you clear out the fuel. Turn van off fast and go see what volume your PS pump moved. I was able to try turing the engine over two or three times for a few seconds each time before draining the PS reservoir. After draining it down, I checked out the screen with a flashlight. I then took some cue-tips and cleaned the small amount of debris off the screen. Be careful not to push it down through the screen. Then fill the reservoir and repaet the process until the fluid coming out of your hose is clean. It doesn't take long, except for your first try. My first try took about 30 minutes. I then did my F150 right after and it took about 15 minutes and did it totally on my own. In fact the F150 was easier than the Windstar b/c of the connection position for the return line on the reservoir is in a better position.

OK guys, haven't been around for a while but thought I'd chime in because I just did a little work on this myself.

First, the Ford procedure is to remove the relay, use a second person to crank the engine. I found this worked well, and fast. The advantage is that you use the pump to generate a little pressure. Hopefully you'll run a couple quarts through the system. Ford says to run it until the fluid runs clear.

Now, when I bought my car the PS line had just been changed so it had new fluid in the last year (but not flushed). I checked it and it smelled burned so I did the flush. I'm conscious about dry steering but like clockwork, one year later it smelled burned again even though I used Mobil1 synthetic.

My suggestion is not to do the turkey baster method because it will take you forever to actually flush the system because you are removing some, adding new, mixing it toghether and then removing some of the mixtues each time. No one would do that with engine oil so I wouldn't with PS either, especially when the flush is so simple.

I recently wrote an article on this. I'll see if I can find it and post a clip.

OK guys, haven't been around for a while but thought I'd chime in because I just did a little work on this myself.

First, the Ford procedure is to remove the relay, use a second person to crank the engine. I found this worked well, and fast. The advantage is that you use the pump to generate a little pressure. Hopefully you'll run a couple quarts through the system. Ford says to run it until the fluid runs clear.

Now, when I bought my car the PS line had just been changed so it had new fluid in the last year (but not flushed). I checked it and it smelled burned so I did the flush. I'm conscious about dry steering but like clockwork, one year later it smelled burned again even though I used Mobil1 synthetic.

My suggestion is not to do the turkey baster method because it will take you forever to actually flush the system because you are removing some, adding new, mixing it toghether and then removing some of the mixtues each time. No one would do that with engine oil so I wouldn't with PS either, especially when the flush is so simple.

I recently wrote an article on this. I'll see if I can find it and post a clip.
Right who would do that to engine oil.. Running anything without oil isnt a great idea. Flushing little by little does work, as my PS pump is now 9 years old with its orginal rack.

Just because your pump is old doesn't mean that changing your oil 1/5th at a time "works." Sure your pump didn't blow, but how are the seals? What condition are your PS lines? What is your PS pressure read? Is there sludge in the rack? Lack of failure is not evidence of the effectiveness in a procedure. Likewise there have been many Windstars who have performed complete flushes that have had the PS changed in 30,000 miles from new. That isn't evidence that flushing the oil causes pump failure either.

My dad has been a mechanic for 30 years and many of the cars we've seen NEVER had a PS oil change. Nobody does it. So I guess that means not changing your oil WORKS JUST AS WELL as changing your oil 1/5th at a time using that logic. Save your time and don't change it at all.

I have a friend who has a 1977 Ford truck and he thinks oil changes are the biggest scam on the planet. So he doesn't change his oil. He only adds to it when it is low. True story. And this is his daily driver. Same idea as yours. His engine hasn't failed in 30 years, but would you do it when you know the procedure to change oil?

I couldn't post that article for some reason but the main point is that changing 1/5th at a time means that you'll be adding oil, mixing it up, running it for a while (like until next oil change), and then changing some of the mixture. If it takes 5 changes to add the capactiy of the system in new oil it won't matter because some of that oil is still the original and no longer able to cope with the heat. Some of that oil could be years old. You'll never actually have new oil in your system except for 5 ounces at a time, which is what the reservoir holds.

If you pump some out at every engine oil change it takes a year and a half to add the capacity of the system in new oil. And if you talk to a 5th grade math student they'll be able to calculate what % of that is still old oil. Essentially you'll always have some old oil in the system. And sucking it out is not a flush. You need to push, using the pump, new fluid through the system to perform a flush. Otherwise it would be considered a partial evacuation.

That's fine if it works for you, I prefer to follow the Ford procedure which is clear, easy, fast, and complete. Once a year, no messing around with once a month cleanups.

Ive been a Tech for a long time, 18ish years Cert in heavy trucks, and automotive - Ran outta tests to take. Alot of Regular main states to suck out the Power steering fluid and refill at ther 15k service.

My pump seals dont leak, wtf? If they did It would have a new pump.. The rack doesnt leak, if it did my boots would be dripping.

Empty rez, refill, and run.. Turn wheel a few times, and suck out again, etc..
Simple and again it works. This keeps the pump vanes always wet, as if you drained it, You would get air bound, bubbles and foam etc. Thats why the pump makes all that noise when your refilling it when its complete drained. Thats your pump talking to you..
So either way does work, As I do the same for all my fluids and they are all spotless. Spend a little time under the hood and avoid failure.. Unlike most drivers..

Interesting commments on engine oil. If you want to really empty your engine, I suggest removing the oil pan and the valve covers, maybe even the front cover and oil pump ... and tumble the beast several times across your garage floor. Would surely make a mess, .... but you might get some of the 1qt, or so, of old oil that gets hung up in all the recesses and arteries that you never get out with a regular oil drain. Of course, there would still be old oil in the chain tensioners and valve lifters.

Anyone who's ever overhauled a V engine will know from whence I write.