rocker arm / adjust valves
ttaylor61
11-17-2007, 01:19 PM
How do you adjust the valves on a 2000 windstar witha 3.8? It appears that it is just torqued down. Can anybody tell me for sure. If it is just torqued as it appears, what is the correct torque. Thanks in advance!!
inafogg
11-17-2007, 02:20 PM
yes no adjustment needed torque specs not sure but about 15ft/lbs
ttaylor61
11-17-2007, 05:47 PM
Thanks for the reply inafogg. I got my hands on a manual this afternoon it said 20 - 30 ft lb. Anyway the old jewel is up and running again.
searcherrr
11-17-2007, 05:53 PM
Thanks for the reply inafogg. I got my hands on a manual this afternoon it said 20 - 30 ft lb. Anyway the old jewel is up and running again.
What is involved in doing this? What did you do? Just torque the valve covers?
What is involved in doing this? What did you do? Just torque the valve covers?
inafogg
11-17-2007, 06:43 PM
no he removed the cover to tighten/torque the rocker arms
ttaylor61
11-17-2007, 08:07 PM
What is involved in doing this? What did you do? Just torque the valve covers?
The engine was running extremly rough and had a loud tapping sound. Showed a code of mis-fire on cylinder 5. I removed the valve cover and found a valve spring broke. I was surprised when I removed the rocker to find that it appeared to simply bottom out on the head. Nice and simple to just bolt the rocker arm back on and torque into place.
The engine was running extremly rough and had a loud tapping sound. Showed a code of mis-fire on cylinder 5. I removed the valve cover and found a valve spring broke. I was surprised when I removed the rocker to find that it appeared to simply bottom out on the head. Nice and simple to just bolt the rocker arm back on and torque into place.
inafogg
11-18-2007, 12:22 PM
hi taylor so the valve spring wasnt broke??just the rocker came off the valve?
ttaylor61
11-18-2007, 07:43 PM
The valve spring was broke. This left the exaust valve partially open all the time.
Fortunately the retainers stayed on and held the valve away from the piston. I was able to replace the spring without removing the head. It would have been a real cheap fix (about $12.00 for the spring and retainer) but I had to buy a valve spring compresser and the adaptor to hook an air line into the cylinder. My torque wrench broke the last time I used it so I also had to pick up another torque wrench. By the time I left Harbor Freight I had spent about another $50.00 (seems like I can not get out of that store without spending $50 or more).
But I guess as the saying goes "the price for making the wife happy by getting her van back on the road........priceless".
Fortunately the retainers stayed on and held the valve away from the piston. I was able to replace the spring without removing the head. It would have been a real cheap fix (about $12.00 for the spring and retainer) but I had to buy a valve spring compresser and the adaptor to hook an air line into the cylinder. My torque wrench broke the last time I used it so I also had to pick up another torque wrench. By the time I left Harbor Freight I had spent about another $50.00 (seems like I can not get out of that store without spending $50 or more).
But I guess as the saying goes "the price for making the wife happy by getting her van back on the road........priceless".
searcherrr
11-19-2007, 05:08 AM
LOL - Glad she's happy.
Do ya'll think this would be a necessary procedure after driving a new engine around for about 600 - 1000 miles (retightening retorqueing the arms/valves etc..) cause the new engine warranty states that if this isn't done it could possibly void the warranty. I asked my trusted shop about this and they say they've never heard of this before. Can the covers be removed and all those things accessed without the engine coming out?
Do ya'll think this would be a necessary procedure after driving a new engine around for about 600 - 1000 miles (retightening retorqueing the arms/valves etc..) cause the new engine warranty states that if this isn't done it could possibly void the warranty. I asked my trusted shop about this and they say they've never heard of this before. Can the covers be removed and all those things accessed without the engine coming out?
ttaylor61
11-19-2007, 09:14 PM
LOL - Glad she's happy.
Do ya'll think this would be a necessary procedure after driving a new engine around for about 600 - 1000 miles (retightening retorqueing the arms/valves etc..) cause the new engine warranty states that if this isn't done it could possibly void the warranty. I asked my trusted shop about this and they say they've never heard of this before. Can the covers be removed and all those things accessed without the engine coming out?
I can not imagine why you would have to re-torque this type of rocker arm/valve. If you decide to re-torque them, the front is very easy to access. I am pretty certain that the back could be accessed by removing the wiper arms, plastic dress cover and metal wiper support tray (similar to changing the spark plugs from the top).
Do ya'll think this would be a necessary procedure after driving a new engine around for about 600 - 1000 miles (retightening retorqueing the arms/valves etc..) cause the new engine warranty states that if this isn't done it could possibly void the warranty. I asked my trusted shop about this and they say they've never heard of this before. Can the covers be removed and all those things accessed without the engine coming out?
I can not imagine why you would have to re-torque this type of rocker arm/valve. If you decide to re-torque them, the front is very easy to access. I am pretty certain that the back could be accessed by removing the wiper arms, plastic dress cover and metal wiper support tray (similar to changing the spark plugs from the top).
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